Second vote for the spike configuration. As Brian says, it's useful. The one on the Stihl is somewhat blunt, but I've never felt it needed to be sharp. Get as long a shaft as you feel comfortable with as it provides the leverage of course. I seem to remember the Stihl came in a couple of lengths, though I could be mistaken. Mine is roughly five feet long sans the point.
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What's the next toy.. errr tool?
- Thread starter Sam Fleisher
- Start date
Still haven't gotten the log lifter yet.
However did buy an eighteen inch jet bandsaw a little bit ago.
Now I'll be spending the rest of the weekend doing a shop re-arrange to make room for it. Pick up Monday!
However did buy an eighteen inch jet bandsaw a little bit ago.
Now I'll be spending the rest of the weekend doing a shop re-arrange to make room for it. Pick up Monday!
Due to moving and downsizing etc I am about to combine best features of both of my lathes. So the smallish layout lathe will be up graded with a motor a three-phase with VFD 240v and variable speed control magnetic base. A bed extension of somewhere around 12-18" havent quite decided yet and a new tailstock. The big lathe had a camlock set up for the toolrest on the banjo still deciding on that, may just keep as it as a spare as it is longer than the current one on the lathe
Have any pictures of your setup? Are these homemade is that how you are able to vary the length?
Will put them up as they occur, currently the lathes are separated from the stand for transport and yes DIY all welded construction
Sam here you go, just put the basic lathe back on its stand. Its a little unusual as it has three bed and a 5 legged stand, swing arm motor mount that I have additional springs to increase the dwon would thrust but rarely use them. The short additional bed are for additional equipment such as a swing arm that holds carver gear like a Dremel etc. it al;so allows me to mount the banjo on the operator's side which is handy with the short bed. The new motor will be 2 hp 3 phase 1440rpm which should do all I want. I will be keeping the stepped pulley set up to counteract for the loss of torque at lower speeds.
If you have any questions fire away
If you have any questions fire away
Attachments
Having the extra ways sticking out like that looks really handy, less crowded on the main bed.
I'm guessing the apparatus that's holding that drill in the background is an item that goes on there? And your fluting set-up.
Yes and no, the fluting is laid out on the lathe using my own indexing set up then hand cut later off the lathe. Due to the way I cut the flutes it really would needs a CNC router and thats a bit out of reach on my pay grade. The front way is more used for the banjo as the bed is short 700mm or 27" the banjo has 12" of travel so it can reach well down the bed. The rear way or bed allows me to mount attachments without loss of bed space which is kinda important with 27". Usually a swing arm set with the upright post being slightly above the headstock height. The cross or swing arm is around 36" so it will swing on over the bed if required to carry a variable speed pistol drill for flexible extension for internal sanding or power carving. I have a power board mounted on the tailstock end of the stand for this purpose.
Even though I love gadgets, I do not need one of these, as I am well supplied for the sharpening I do on a platform.
That said, this is pretty interesting:
www.rightanglenow.com
That said, this is pretty interesting:
Right Angle | Lathe Tool Sharpening System
The fastest and easiest tool rests to sharpen lathe tools. The the Right Angle the first time, every time.
www.rightanglenow.com
Saw a facebook post from Rob Wallace about that. One of his club members. That looks like a really interesting set up. New and improved my robo rest. It isn't cheap, but considering what metal was doing when I quit making mine, and that I was probably selling mine too cheap, it seems fair to me.
robo hippy
robo hippy
I can see why someone would want the programmable one over the talon series.
But I'll probably never get to the point where I need a specific grind over what the talon series provides. It looks like it has plenty of variations to me and I'd just use them.
That being said my woodturning budget is too stressed at the moment or I'd be trying one out!
For some reason it's just finicky to me when I switch the platform to the side where the cbn wheel is then I have to find the right angle to grind a roughing gouge or the scraper I'm using. I have gotten in the habit of sharpening which ever tool RG or scraper that I last used so next time it's sharp to start out with and I don't have to set the platform right off the bat. I know... get another grinder to leave set up.... (see third line)
But I'll probably never get to the point where I need a specific grind over what the talon series provides. It looks like it has plenty of variations to me and I'd just use them.
That being said my woodturning budget is too stressed at the moment or I'd be trying one out!
For some reason it's just finicky to me when I switch the platform to the side where the cbn wheel is then I have to find the right angle to grind a roughing gouge or the scraper I'm using. I have gotten in the habit of sharpening which ever tool RG or scraper that I last used so next time it's sharp to start out with and I don't have to set the platform right off the bat. I know... get another grinder to leave set up.... (see third line)
Dave Landers
Beta Tester
That's mostly why I've settled on 3 angles for my platform. For me its:
- 40 for NRS (both sides) and my SRG.
- 60 for my bottom bowl gouge
- 75 for the teardrop hollowing scrapers
I have probably made a few compromises in what angles I use, but it makes sharpening much easier.
I am lucky to have 2 grinders (4 CBNs) so I keep the varigrind setup and the 40 on the better of the two. But before I had 2 grinders, I had 3 platforms each set to the angles above. And I kept a sample square of formica to set the distance between the platform and the wheel so the platform would go back to the same place (thus same angle) each time.
And before that, I made some angle gauges. Some of the various jigs I've made for sharpening are here: https://dlwoodturning.com/tag/sharpening/ - down a ways on that list are the angle gauges and how I lay them out for various angles. Most of my jigs are made to copy a grind rather than to grind a specific angle (that is, I find a grind I like then create a jig to get the sharpening setup back to that point).
You ever have one of those duhhhh moments?
I just did. Why didn't I think of just getting extra platforms? I see woodcraft is selling them for $35.
Also going to have to try out your design for the gouges with the three holes for the vari grind jig.
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What he has shown as a log lifter, is referred to here as a "timber jack". Regardless it can substitute in many cases as a cant-hook or peavey.
Lee valley ended up having the platforms for $26 dollars. So I picked up one and a beal 1 1/4 spindle tap to get free shipping.
OK....... tax refund time is in the air..
I know, I know, work with what I got... Ya ya.. but it's tax refund time!
In the quest for greatness...
1. Stihl log hook.
2. another grinder or at minimum another cbn wheel. My rikon 1/2 hp seems to be fine so I'd look at another one of those.
3. 1 1/4 inch spindle roughing gouge. (Thompson, d-way or Carter and sons)
4. start putting together a hollowing system just in case?
5. or be conservative and rat hole some sandpaper and other consumables.
My mindset has always kind of been that it's better to have something and not need it than to need it and not have it.
Obviously I'm not going to buy all of these items at once but I think that would be the order of importance. maybe switch 2 and 3. I've been preparing logs for next years snowmen and a heavier duty SRG would be nice.
What say YE?
I know, I know, work with what I got... Ya ya.. but it's tax refund time!
In the quest for greatness...
1. Stihl log hook.
2. another grinder or at minimum another cbn wheel. My rikon 1/2 hp seems to be fine so I'd look at another one of those.
3. 1 1/4 inch spindle roughing gouge. (Thompson, d-way or Carter and sons)
4. start putting together a hollowing system just in case?
5. or be conservative and rat hole some sandpaper and other consumables.
My mindset has always kind of been that it's better to have something and not need it than to need it and not have it.
Obviously I'm not going to buy all of these items at once but I think that would be the order of importance. maybe switch 2 and 3. I've been preparing logs for next years snowmen and a heavier duty SRG would be nice.
What say YE?
3 and 5 would be my direction, maybe save for a bigger ticket item down the road, maybe some wood blanks you've not had opportunity to turn before? Sooooo many things, so little time.
One thing about this hobby... You never have to worry about running out of toys and gadgets you can buy.
I'm pretty set in the wood department. Down the road maybe I'll turn an exotic for a gift or something but for now I have plenty of green wood that I need to get turned into rough bowls to keep the ball rolling.
I did consider adding a ceiling mount dust filter but since I put a big cartridge filter on my harbor freight dust collector it's gotten better dust wise. Now I just need to run it more.
I don't turn a lot of spindles, but this cheap set of tools from Wen work just fine for me. I pay good money for bowl gouges, but cheap spindle gouges work for what I do.
Keep an eye out. I bought the Rikon 62-1100 for $350 a few months ago. Regular price is $600. When I see something deeply discounted like that, I usually pull the trigger. Obviously, you have to do your research on every item to ensure it's not junk.
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I’ve been using a 1 1/4 crown tool for over 30 years. My wife bought a PN SRG and uses my crown tool.
Don’t see any advantage for the heavier spindle tools.
Maybe if you are turning porch posts but then you would want to go with a continental roughing gouge
If you do the occasional spindle. An Ellsworth ground gouge will go from square to round almost as fast an SRG
Push cuts to depth followed by a pull cut end to end get you to a cylinder quite nicely.
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I’m soon going to be collecting some of the bits for this setup. I already have the Boring Head.
View: https://youtu.be/3AHOfuIBP8I?si=38XbQjdPR9XwPw7K
I was just watching this yesterday! The ornamental stuff looks fun but expensive, even though this is much cheaper than a rose engine.
Interesting thing. Not quite what I am looking for though. Still want an X/Y cutter for my mini lathe and box making..... I was at the dermatologist's office yesterday and they wanted to get a biopsy on some weird spot, and after shaving it off, they used a hand held laser thing to cauterize the site. My first thought was that hey, that laser thing could be used for free hand burning/signing/detailing on wood things...... Don't know if any one makes some thing like that or not....
robo hippy
robo hippy
Only problem is you could probably buy a laser that would cut 1/8 inch steel for what that medical laser costs. Medical field just keep adding zeros.
It’s called a hyfrecator—it’s not a laser. Costs about $500 used and requires no ground. I used them for 40+ years in my urology office. If it had been a laser, you and the doctor would have worn special glasses. And that would be overkill for removing a skin lesion.
Hyfrecator - Wikipedia
Hmm, still wondering if it could be used on wood..... Always some thing new to experiment with....
robo hippy
robo hippy
You could get a small laser engraver for about 300 to sign the bottoms. Just take a picture of your signature and use that as the image to engrave. You could also mount it to the tool post and use an index to put a repeating pattern on a piece.
More expensive lasers have functions to map out the surface of the material and engrave better on curved surfaces. Others have a 4th axis rotary function.
Here is a Tim Yoder video on doing fractal burning with a laser.
View: https://youtu.be/ZeFQ3j3j3cU?si=Kn0NSQgwASuJI5Oh
More expensive lasers have functions to map out the surface of the material and engrave better on curved surfaces. Others have a 4th axis rotary function.
Here is a Tim Yoder video on doing fractal burning with a laser.
I always thought a Bedan sounded superficial, like a "lazy man's tool" until I bought one from a retiring turner. Great for cutting mortices and kinda fun for cornering in detail grooves.
Next tool lately was a one-way spindle steady rest which I tried out today.
I've been making some walking canes and the steady rest makes a big difference.
Technically I bought the bowl steady and then added on the spindle head so you only have to buy one base.
One problem I figured out was it makes me too confident and aggressive in the cuts. The hedge apple I've been using will chunk out when I get carried away.
I've been making some walking canes and the steady rest makes a big difference.
Technically I bought the bowl steady and then added on the spindle head so you only have to buy one base.
One problem I figured out was it makes me too confident and aggressive in the cuts. The hedge apple I've been using will chunk out when I get carried away.
Old thread re-awakening again!
I'm suffering from the need of wanting another bowl gouge. I have Thompson tools so might as well work on completing the set right?
In the back of my head I think why not get the 3/8 v bowl gouge.
**Anyone have one or is it a dust collector that never leaves the rack?** I'd forgive it for collecting some dust and only occasionally getting used.
Seems like I've settled on the 1/2 inch for most of my work and pulling the 5/8 out for green wood just because it's fun and fast. The other day I ran into a spot where I thought a smaller bowl gouge would have worked better. Guess I could have got out a skew... NOT.
I'm suffering from the need of wanting another bowl gouge. I have Thompson tools so might as well work on completing the set right?
In the back of my head I think why not get the 3/8 v bowl gouge.
**Anyone have one or is it a dust collector that never leaves the rack?** I'd forgive it for collecting some dust and only occasionally getting used.
Seems like I've settled on the 1/2 inch for most of my work and pulling the 5/8 out for green wood just because it's fun and fast. The other day I ran into a spot where I thought a smaller bowl gouge would have worked better. Guess I could have got out a skew... NOT.
I have a 3/8” V bowl gouge from Thompson. It’s one of my most used tools, alongside a 1/2” bowl gouge and 1/2” spindle detail gouge. I keep a relatively short bevel, and grind off the heel. Really excellent for fine finishing cuts, and I also use it often for small hollowing jobs. Highly recommended.
What size handle do you have on it? I was thinking 12 inch even though I keep a 16 inch on my 1/2 and 5/8.
I have the 12”. Short enough to maneuver easily, but still heavy enough to be stable.
My most used tools are the Thompson 3/8 detail and bowl gouges. All of my 3/8 tools -- lots of them -- have only 7-8" handles. None have a 12". My smaller skews also have similarly short handles.
I think I'll order a 12 inch to try because I don't have one. I use the thompson 7 inch 3/8 handles on my d-way beading tools so I can try one of those if I don't like the 12 inch.
I like short handles too. A long handle just gets in the way for many things. And with a good sharp edge and a bit of finesse there is little reason for the leverage a long handle provides. Frank Penta told me that in the "trades" (in Europe, I think) nearly all tools had short handles. When I visit his shop I see a long row of tools on the wall, most with handles not much longer than your hand is wide.
For skews, some spindle gouges, and other tools I tend to use one-handed for some spindles, I like the handle a little longer so I can press the end against the underside of my forearm to stabilize it.
I clipped this from my doc on turning thin spindles. The skew handle is mostly hidden behind my right forearm. (1st pic at bottom)
I use some tools with no handles, including most NRS, some gouges, and a 5/8" Thompson (StLeger) spindle roughing gouge. (The shaft is thick enough to hold comfortably)
Maybe move that to the front of your head. I have most of the tools Doug makes and the 3/8" is one of my favorites when I turn bowls (and a few other things)
JKJ
OK, who else has a tough time passing up a Milwaukee display when you're shopping? 😏
I got stuck in the vortex of one the other day in home Depot. It was recommended by a buddy to get a "torch" reciprocating saw blade to cut a 1 inch bolt. Well a pack of 5 was roughly $20 and it took 4 of them to cut through one grade 8 bolt. Turns out a cheapo 4 inch harbor freight cut off wheel zips through one in about a minute and a half with very little wear.OK, who else has a tough time passing up a Milwaukee display when you're shopping? 😏
A single carbide "torch" was similar cost but I knew the bolt was going to be tough so I went with the multi pack. Good thing I already had the cutoff wheels.
Those cheap face plates on Amazon might not be accurate for turning but they work great for screwing a bolt into and making a platform to put in your banjo for sanding with a 12 inch sanding disc on the lathe or using a router for decorations.
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No problem for me, after about 10 years of regularly getting screwed over (Denied claims - even when given a go-ahead by a factory rep, reimbursements that don't even cover costs, etc..) as a warranty service center for TTI (the parent company that makes Ryobi, Ridgid, Milwaukee) I have absolutely no interest in any of their tools... Makita, on the other hand, I can spend hours in front of the tool display wall trying to justify yet another LXT 18V (or 36V) tool. I've been using their tools for 35-plus years (Still have my first 3/8 corded drill and running strong, from 1986) and have been using the LXT 18V/36V tools since 2019 and have yet to have a single battery go bad. (much less any tool failures) (And oh yeah, back when I was a warranty dealer for them, the relatively few warranty claim reimbursements were generous by comparison with no denials)