Stunning wood and work.
David nice piece, I have used thin CA to help prevent new turnings from splitting, also knots and the pith areas on the rim, just that bit of CA will strengthen and also slow down the drying of these spots, better outcome.Switch off the walnut to see what the maple I got last week was going to look like. Had a large crotch piece that I wanted to try. It ended up have two offset piths in the top section so both bowls will have a pith in them. Hopefully it won’t crack but there was no way to cut the two blanks with out getting the pith in them. If they crack too much I’ll fill them and they will become give away bowls. Currently 14”x 7” but should finish out once dry at 13.5” x 6.6”
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That is gorgeous. Looks like marble in so many ways. Although I don't think I've seen that brown color in marble.Spalted Missouri Hackberry was a bit punky in places. Final turned at 900rpm.
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Thanks Gregory.....That is gorgeous. Looks like marble in so many ways. Although I don't think I've seen that brown color in marble.
Gregory
I did soak the pith area with thin CA on both bowls. It surprisingly soaked it up fairly well, usually green wet wood won’t soak up CA that great but these did.David nice piece, I have used thin CA to help prevent new turnings from splitting, also knots and the pith areas on the rim, just that bit of CA will strengthen and also slow down the drying of these spots, better outcome.
Got a picture here that shows where I did this, knots and pith areas and inclusions, the bowls dried without splits and was returned and finished.
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Wow!Switch off the walnut to see what the maple I got last week was going to look like. Had a large crotch piece that I wanted to try. It ended up have two offset piths in the top section so both bowls will have a pith in them. Hopefully it won’t crack but there was no way to cut the two blanks with out getting the pith in them. If they crack too much I’ll fill them and they will become give away bowls. Currently 14”x 7” but should finish out once dry at 13.5” x 6.6”
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Another nomenclature problem for wood turners (most recent - "jam vs. friction" chucking). Many turners would call this a "footed" bowl as it is. If you are talking about carving away material to get 3-4 small feet I would say no. Not enough material to get a continuous artistic curve. But do it anyway ... good practice for the next one where you plan ahead.Finished this small walnut bowl, 7" x 2". It had a recess on the bottom I'm trying to decide whether to make it a footed bowl or leave it as is. The pencil line is the depth of the recess. What's everyone think? I've never made a footed bowl and thought this might be an opportunity.
Yes, I'm talking about making it a 3 footed bowl by carving away material.Another nomenclature problem for wood turners (most recent - "jam vs. friction" chucking). Many turners would call this a "footed" bowl as it is. If you are talking about carving away material to get 3-4 small feet I would say no. Not enough material to get a continuous artistic curve. But do it anyway ... good practice for the next one where you plan ahead.
I am attaching 2 photos of the process I used on an end grain bowl, however the amount of material in the bottom may not be enough to make that continuous curve. The grain orientation appears to be side grain on yours, so you would need to have a balky leg to make up for the weak side grain. The way you are set up you will not need the live center support as shown here, however your setup will not work for a natural edge bowl.Finished this small walnut bowl, 7" x 2". It had a recess on the bottom I'm trying to decide whether to make it a footed bowl or leave it as is. The pencil line is the depth of the recess. What's everyone think? I've never made a footed bowl and thought this might be an opportunity.