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What’s on your lathe?

Switch off the walnut to see what the maple I got last week was going to look like. Had a large crotch piece that I wanted to try. It ended up have two offset piths in the top section so both bowls will have a pith in them. Hopefully it won’t crack but there was no way to cut the two blanks with out getting the pith in them. If they crack too much I’ll fill them and they will become give away bowls. Currently 14”x 7” but should finish out once dry at 13.5” x 6.6”

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David nice piece, I have used thin CA to help prevent new turnings from splitting, also knots and the pith areas on the rim, just that bit of CA will strengthen and also slow down the drying of these spots, better outcome.
Got a picture here that shows where I did this, knots and pith areas and inclusions, the bowls dried without splits and were returned and finished.

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David nice piece, I have used thin CA to help prevent new turnings from splitting, also knots and the pith areas on the rim, just that bit of CA will strengthen and also slow down the drying of these spots, better outcome.
Got a picture here that shows where I did this, knots and pith areas and inclusions, the bowls dried without splits and was returned and finished.

View attachment 71660
I did soak the pith area with thin CA on both bowls. It surprisingly soaked it up fairly well, usually green wet wood won’t soak up CA that great but these did.
 
Switch off the walnut to see what the maple I got last week was going to look like. Had a large crotch piece that I wanted to try. It ended up have two offset piths in the top section so both bowls will have a pith in them. Hopefully it won’t crack but there was no way to cut the two blanks with out getting the pith in them. If they crack too much I’ll fill them and they will become give away bowls. Currently 14”x 7” but should finish out once dry at 13.5” x 6.6”

View attachment 71607

View attachment 71606
Wow!
 
A small sipa(*) twig pot, slightly larger than the one I posted in the gallery, this one commissioned by a friend. Applying BLO now, then shellac over the weekend.

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I decided to make the first twig pot after getting an email about this Rude Osolnik auction. I wasn't intending to make a copy, but clearly I had Osolnik's piece in my mind!

(*) I think? I keep getting my sapele and sipa blanks mixed up.
 
Finished this small walnut bowl, 7" x 2". It had a recess on the bottom I'm trying to decide whether to make it a footed bowl or leave it as is. The pencil line is the depth of the recess. What's everyone think? I've never made a footed bowl and thought this might be an opportunity.
 

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Finished this small walnut bowl, 7" x 2". It had a recess on the bottom I'm trying to decide whether to make it a footed bowl or leave it as is. The pencil line is the depth of the recess. What's everyone think? I've never made a footed bowl and thought this might be an opportunity.
Another nomenclature problem for wood turners (most recent - "jam vs. friction" chucking). Many turners would call this a "footed" bowl as it is. If you are talking about carving away material to get 3-4 small feet I would say no. Not enough material to get a continuous artistic curve. But do it anyway ... good practice for the next one where you plan ahead.
 
Another nomenclature problem for wood turners (most recent - "jam vs. friction" chucking). Many turners would call this a "footed" bowl as it is. If you are talking about carving away material to get 3-4 small feet I would say no. Not enough material to get a continuous artistic curve. But do it anyway ... good practice for the next one where you plan ahead.
Yes, I'm talking about making it a 3 footed bowl by carving away material.
 
Finished this small walnut bowl, 7" x 2". It had a recess on the bottom I'm trying to decide whether to make it a footed bowl or leave it as is. The pencil line is the depth of the recess. What's everyone think? I've never made a footed bowl and thought this might be an opportunity.
I am attaching 2 photos of the process I used on an end grain bowl, however the amount of material in the bottom may not be enough to make that continuous curve. The grain orientation appears to be side grain on yours, so you would need to have a balky leg to make up for the weak side grain. The way you are set up you will not need the live center support as shown here, however your setup will not work for a natural edge bowl.
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The continuous curve was checked with a profile transfer gauge that easily shows if the curve is continuous on both sides of the leg ring with a small cup center holding the bowl against the jam/friction chuck. On this bowl I marked the locations of the leg by setting the index then made a pencil mark off the tool rest and moving to the next index point, 120 degrees for 3 legs or 90 degrees for 4 legs. The marking jig as shown is used to mark each leg to assure similar contour.
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This shows that the contour of the legs was cut close to the lines and then beginning to cut out the material between the legs. The final shaping can be done with files, sand paper, carving knives or whatever works for you.
 
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