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What’s on your lathe?
- Thread starter Rusty Nesmith
- Start date
Working on a large Thai Red Amboyna burl last evening. I discovered a screwhole in the exterior of this bowl, and the resulting shape is related to removing enough wood to eliminate it. The interior will not be any deeper, because of this.....I would rather this not be the case, but to eliminate flaws, sometimes you have to do what you have to do.
You can see there is absolutely no tearout on this seasoned bone-dry surface direct from my turning tools..... zip, zero, nada! This is what I expect from myself with surfaces just prior to sanding. Sanding will start with either 220gt, or 320gt! I attribute the quality of this pre-sanded surface to "spiritual turning". Run a search for this in titles to previous AAW forum threads.....That is, if you are curious as to what I mean with this term.
-o-
You can see there is absolutely no tearout on this seasoned bone-dry surface direct from my turning tools..... zip, zero, nada! This is what I expect from myself with surfaces just prior to sanding. Sanding will start with either 220gt, or 320gt! I attribute the quality of this pre-sanded surface to "spiritual turning". Run a search for this in titles to previous AAW forum threads.....That is, if you are curious as to what I mean with this term.
-o-
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Dave Landers
Beta Tester
Flame textured an elm hollow form yesterday. My favorite tools are on their way to Portland, so I am messing around with different things.
Burned and wire-brushed. I did not burn it on the lathe - went outside for that.
Gave it a coat of lacquer inside and out - will probably get another coat outside. And it'll sit all weekend with the fish tank pump blowing inside it to help cure the lacquer and evacuate the fumes.
Burned and wire-brushed. I did not burn it on the lathe - went outside for that.
Gave it a coat of lacquer inside and out - will probably get another coat outside. And it'll sit all weekend with the fish tank pump blowing inside it to help cure the lacquer and evacuate the fumes.
Making octagon tapered stretchers for stick chairs.
Lathes, not just for round stuff.
The Red Amboyna burl bowl was finished last night. Here it's still wet with DO.....about 1am.
-o-
Three BFABs, from acacia butcher block countertop.
Working on another piece of cypress, this on a triple crotch figure with a lot of potential character. Cant wait to see the grain pop when the finish goes on.
Interested in the seeing the completed chair! I've built a couple stick chairs. They're pretty fun to build.
Walnut, 7.5 x 3.
Jim McLain
Artist
13” walnut that started at 5” tall and ended up at 3” +/-. Ran in to several bad knots and a couple stress cracks from where the tree fell. First coat of walnut oil applied.
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Will 11 pewa be enough to hold this together as a hollow form? We shall see...
Even with 11 Pewa I would be nervous!
I was pretty nervous getting it to the rough shape so that I could put the pewa in! The good thing with hollowing is that I'll be out of the line of fire if things don't go well.
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2004
- Messages
- 9,053
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- Location
- Lakeland, Florida
- Website
- www.hockenberywoodturning.com
Looks like the bark inclusion will have one side held on with 5 pewa.
Unless you have confidence that that is enough, add more.
The hollowing makes a lot of unavoidable stress. You won’t have solid wood in the bottom to help when you hollow the walls.
Big voids are not much of an issue when you have a solid base.
My blank selection process is to get a solid bottom and use a faceplate mount.
I have never turned a piece with pewa.
@Dave Landers turns hollow where the top is cut free and joined with pewa.
He has a solid wood bottom. Your blank won’t. Big difference.
Not knowing how the pewa vibrate, I’d use a lot more pewa on the bottom.
Be safe, good luck
I love walnut
Well didn’t have time at demo! To do any turning
But when I got home I had accendentily
Drop it and broke off a some pieces on top cherry ring
I crack a few of the Pakua do I was able to repair the pakua and replaced the cherry ring completely
Here s what it’s going to look like after the repair
I turned it to match thickness and then sanded with only 150 and then put on do acks sanding
Polish to see how repair turned out
Looks good do back in the lathe for final turning and finishing !
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My son’s father-in-law died a couple weeks ago and my daughter-in-law asked me to turn an urn. This is my first and it kinda amazed me how large they have to be. Using a piece of cherry that has been in my shop for over 6 years. Plan is to embellish the upper curved area and add a burned or carved field flowing toward the bottom.
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In the middle of turning the bowl I glued up a few weeks ago.
Australian Brown Mallee burl bowl was finished up last night. I'm refining my technique for
deepening the cut under my extreme undercut rims. This is where a rotating headstock would
be especially useful for my purposes. For these deep undercut rims, the final finish needs to
be just as refined as all other surfaces......unlike the neglected finish that is usually within a
hollow form....
-o-
Roy, Gretel and Kosmo were nice and cozy nearby!
deepening the cut under my extreme undercut rims. This is where a rotating headstock would
be especially useful for my purposes. For these deep undercut rims, the final finish needs to
be just as refined as all other surfaces......unlike the neglected finish that is usually within a
hollow form....
-o-
Roy, Gretel and Kosmo were nice and cozy nearby!
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A sliding headstock would be far superior, just work off the end, no screwy outriggers for your tool rests, no realignment problems, etc.
Don.....I think I'm far more tuned into what would be superior for my purposes. For me, and a few others, a rotating headstock would be more advantageous than a sliding headstock.
-o-
Nice branding!
Finishing up this walnut and purpleheart bowl. Looks like I need to sand a couple of spots.
About halfway there, no stability issues so far.
EDIT: and it is done. No issues until I got to the maximum internal diameter and there was a region that started flexing. I didn't feel like I could clean up the ridges there, so they will remain.
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A walnut, acacia and wild black cherry bowl and an acacia and walnut bowl, from boards I glued up last week:
5" sugar maple live edge.
The symposium this past weekend was great, but I was definitely pining to get back on the lathe. Working on a fairly small, very curly Pecan calabash for a friend. I rough turned this quite a while ago and am now finish turning. Pecan is quite hard, and kind of a pain to sand, but when all said and done it is beautiful. Will finish with Danish oil and then will try a topcoat of varnish oil for the first time.
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Very nice.
Please post the finished bowl. I never would have considered varnish over DO and I am interested to see the result.
Bob
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2008
- Messages
- 13
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- 21
Roughing out some ash and ran into an old branch or knot. Really made the tool bounce. Many trips to the grinder to get through this. No indication of trouble on the outside….
Thanks Bob, will do. I’ve never used this finishing method before, but I’m taking notes out of the Kevin Jesequel playbook.
Grabbed a chunk of NIP and turned this end grain bowl today. Put some oil on it to keep it from cracking (hopefully) even though more sanding needed. Wall under 1/4 inch, 10+ inch diameter. Norfolk pine has terrible tear out. I sharpened often, cut slowly, and that helped, less tear out than usual. 80 grit paper helped also!
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Kevin Jesequel
TOTW Team
FWIW, the Danish oil we are discussing is the Tried and True brand, which is just polymerized linseed oil. The varnish oil they make is the same with pine resin added. I have found the varnish oil too viscous to penetrate, so I apply it after two coats of the Danish oil, which does a better job making the figure pop.
Kevin Jesequel
TOTW Team
FWIW, the Danish oil we are discussing is the Tried and True brand, which is just polymerized linseed oil. The varnish oil they make is the same with pine resin added. I have found the varnish oil too viscous to penetrate, so I apply it after two coats of the Danish oil, which does a better job making the figure pop.
Thank you.