What's in a Lathe?

[Gabriel Hoff]

I have a JET 1221and it's never gets in my way. 🙃

Those 1221's are really a steal in the midi category. They are really well built and reliable!

 

[Mike Novak]

For me, I do Woodturning to make me happy, so I want a machine that will make me smile every time I use it. My PM3520c does everything I need, but it doesn’t always make me smile. The banjo doesn’t glide smoothly. The bearings are noisy. Lots of motor noise over 1700 rpm. Paint is chipping. The indexing is very clumsy to use and doesn’t lock solid. Yes, I’m nitpicking. If this was my job I’d be perfectly happy with it.

I turned on a Harvey T-40 once. Smooth quiet and powerful. Had I done this before buying my 3520 I probably would have bought a T-60. Some think it uses proprietary electronics, but it doesn’t. It uses off the shelf Delta drive and motor. I have lots of experience with servo motors. They are extremely reliable and have full torque at very low rpm. Turn speed knob to 0 and it holds spindle from turning. It has same size spindle as Oneway, but Oneway has better bearings.

Oneway uses double row angular contact bearings that are internally preloaded. Vicmark uses tapered roller bearings with adjustable preload. Every other manufacturer I know of uses general purpose bearings that are less rigid and don’t handle tail stock pressure as well.

I have considered adding a 3 speed pulley and Oneway banjo to my 3520. That would hopefully eliminate my two biggest gripes.

 

[Gabriel Hoff]

For me, I do Woodturning to make me happy, so I want a machine that will make me smile every time I use it. My PM3520c does everything I need, but it doesn’t always make me smile. The banjo doesn’t glide smoothly. The bearings are noisy. Lots of motor noise over 1700 rpm. Paint is chipping. The indexing is very clumsy to use and doesn’t lock solid. Yes, I’m nitpicking. If this was my job I’d be perfectly happy with it.

Bingo!

That is what I feel about a machine. It may do the job, but does it make you want to use it and not be frustrated by it? Do you really enjoy stepping in front of it and feeling that sense of having a machine that will not distract you from your craft by the various problems?

Great point, I think the Oneway banjo will make a big difference on your lathe!

 

[William Rogers]

@Mike Novak The T60 wasn’t out when I bought my Robust. I agree it is an impressive machine.

 

[Odie]

It also absorbs vibration much better.

Cast iron vs steel ....... which really absorbs vibration better?

This is an extremely important consideration for making finely executed cuts on wood.

Somewhere, someone has a premium Robust and a Vicmarc.....or a premium Powermatic and a Oneway.....a combination of high-end lathes that are equivalent in size and weight......and can conclusively make an accurate comparison.

I'd like to see a series of tests for specific individual pieces of wood within various static levels of balance, all individually tested for vibration over a range of speeds while using the same exact mounting (i.e.: chuck or faceplate, or whatever.....just the exact same mount and exact same piece of wood for the test.)

I, for one......would be extremely interested in the findings.....but, the test has to be fair, honest, scientific, and have an accurate method of testing for inherent vibration at any specific rpm.......for one specific piece of wood.

-o-

 

[Bill Alston]

Cast iron vs steel ....... which really absorbs vibration better?

This is an extremely important consideration for making finely executed cuts on wood.

Somewhere, someone has a premium Robust and a Vicmarc.....or a premium Powermatic and a Oneway.....a combination of high-end lathes that are equivalent in size and weight......and can conclusively make an accurate comparison.

I'd like to see a series of tests for specific individual pieces of wood within various static levels of balance, all individually tested for vibration over a range of speeds while using the same exact mounting (i.e.: chuck or faceplate, or whatever.....just the exact same mount and exact same piece of wood for the test.)

I, for one......would be extremely interested in the findings.....but, the test has to be fair, honest, scientific, and have an accurate method of testing for inherent vibration at any specific rpm.......for one specific piece of wood.

-o-

It was a generalisation from comments I’ve read about machine tools. Whilst true for metalworking machines that work to fine tolerances it may not make as much difference when turning *wood? The same with bearings, many machine tools use taper roller bearings whilst wood lathes normally only use deep groove bearings. Having said that, plain bearings were regarded as the very best many years ago and some wood lathes were fitted with them.

Your suggestion whilst very interesting would be extremely difficult to pursue. The two lathes would need to be of exactly the same size, weight, etc and have identical bearings and motor etc.
At my last job we had a CNC lathe and Mill and both were made from cast Iron even though it would probably have been easier to make them from steel. There must still be a reason for this.

*The degree of precision required depends on what you’re turning. 1/16” out when turning a 12” bowl won’t likely make much difference. That same error on a small box can ruin the piece.

 

[Mike Novak]

It was a generalisation from comments I’ve read about machine tools. Whilst true for metalworking machines that work to fine tolerances it may not make as much difference when turning *wood? The same with bearings, many machine tools use taper roller bearings whilst wood lathes normally only use deep groove bearings. Having said that, plain bearings were regarded as the very best many years ago and some wood lathes were fitted with them.

People think of different things when you say “vibration”. The vibration that cast is better at absorbing is the high frequency low amplitude vibration, like you would get out of a piccolo. In other words, steel sounds different. This can make a difference in a high precision machine like a surface grinder, but I doubt it would make a difference in Woodturning. Overall mass, rigidity, and bearings would have a much bigger impact.

 

[Randy Heinemann]

I was reading a discussion about today's lathes and lathes of old. For starters, let me provide context.

There are many classes of lathe, but for this discussion, let's use these three:

1. Trash lathes. You know who they are and we don't use these.
2. Good midi lathes. These are the 14-20" swing lathes by reputable manufacturers like Rikon, Jet, Laguna, Powermatic, and so on.
   1. EDIT: I included up to 20" in the midis, but as Bill B pointed out, the 18 and 20" lathes are probably considered full-size lathes.
3. Top end full-sized lathes. Robust, OneWay, et al.

I started with a #1. It is a Wen 14x20. It's a decent lathe for $600 but quickly outgrown. Then I moved to #2 when I bought my Rikon 70-1824.

My experience is limited to exactly two lathes, so I depend on you all. I have two questions.

1. The Powermatic 3520(a,b,c) is very popular. But I wonder, is that just legacy or is it justified today when compared to other manufacturers? Is the Powermatic better than the Jet, Laguna, or Rikon of the same size?
2. Taking that same question to the next level, are the Robust and OneWay lathes that much better than, say, the Powermatic? Put another way, are the top end lathes really $3-4,000 BETTER than the Powermatic, et al?

It would be great if you could leave your emotions out of your answers. You may love Powermatic, Robust, etc., but I'm asking for objective feedback, not fanboy opinions.

I own a Powermatic 3520. It's a great lathe, solid and heavy, quiet, and I can't think of any project I'd do on a lathe it couldn't handle. In addition, with a capacity of 20", I will never out grow it.

I have, however, used a Robust American Beauty 3 times for several days each while in class. I feel the Robust lathes are superior in almost every way to the Powermatic. They are sort of the top of the line I'd say. However, when I bought my Powermatic, I paid around $4,000 for it (much less than they sell for today). At that time, the Robust American Beauty was over $8,000 (now may$10,000). While the Robust has stainless ways and an incredible fold down tailstock, plus being an extremely high quality lathe, I could not justify spending twice what the Powermatic cost given I'm in my 70's and who knows how many years into the future I will be able to use it.

Having said all of this, I was never sorry I bought the Powermatic. It is truly a solid, high quality lathe. Its fit and finish will never come close to the Robust however. So, while functionally it performs as well as the Robust, it just isn't as "nice", so sometimes, in my less positive moments, I look at it and remember the Robust lathes I used and think it sure would be nice to own a lathe on which the finish doesn't chip constantly and I don't have to mess with the 50 pound tailstock even though I do have the tailstock swing away accessory. As a quick add-on, even though the Powermatic is heavier than the Robust, there was never any vibration issues with the Robust, at least not for me when I was using it class. I saw some guys in class turning some very large pieces (wet) which would have caused problems on a lesser lathe.

 

[hockenbery]

have, however, used a Robust American Beauty 3 times for several days each while in class. I feel the Robust lathes are superior in almost every way to the Powermatic.

I don’t know what classes you took but for most folks spending the savings on quality classes will make turning more enjoyable because their work will improve a lot more with gained skills than it will from using a better lathe.

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

Vibration, so what if cast iron might be better than steel for vibration dampening? No matter which material is used you're still stuck with a lack of rigidity using hand held tools. That's where there should be concern. Rigidity in tools is why CNC and OT can produce surfaces without catches needing little sanding.

 

[Bob Vaughan]

A friend has an old Fay and Scott patternmaker's lathe. It makes today's top of the line lathes look flimsy and weak, but he's making patterns for casting big man hold covers. The big X frame is used outboard with the outboard turning stand. He doesn't have to remove the tailstock. I suspect that the tailstock quill and handwheel will weigh close to 50 Lbs. alone.

 

[Neil S]

What this thread, or another like it, needs is a useful summary of the specs and key features of each lathe currently on the market.

I put the attached spreadsheet together for another forum a few years back of the larger lathes available to us then down here in Australia. Someone needs to do the same for Nth America.

A topic that has contributions like, "I have an X-lathe and I love it except for its thingamabob" is of value for the qualitative comments, but if I was looking to replace my lathe I would find a spreadsheet like this a valuable starting point.

Here is a sample from that spreadsheet...

Larger lathes currently available here in Australia
As at: 5 November 2020
Make	Vicmarc	Vicmarc	Vicmarc	Woodfast	Woodfast
Model	VL300S ASM	VL300SML	VL240	WL3040A	M910
Nominal HP	3	2	2 or 2	3 (apparently 4)	2
kW	2.2	1.5	1.5 or 1.5	2.2 (2.98)
Configuration	Short Bed		Standard/ Heavy Opt	Sliding bed	Standard
Centre Height to Bed	300mm	300mm	240mm	397mm	260mm
Swing over bed/gap	600mm	600mm	490mm	794mm	520mm
Outboard Swing
Between Centers	500mm	500mm	500mm	1016mm	975mm
Working Height to Centre	1070-1370mm	1070-1370mm	1020-1195mm/ 1065-1340mm	1118 mm
Swivel Head	No	No	Yes/Yes	No	No
Sliding Head	No	No	No/No	No	No
Thread	M30 x 3.5mm	M30 x 3.5mm	M30 x 3.5mm	M30 x 3.5mm	M30 x 3.5mm
Indexing Holes	24	24	24	36	24
Morse Taper	No 2	No 2	No 2	No 2	No 2
Bearings	Tapered	Tapered	Tapered		4 x Quatro
EVS via 3 Ratios	10-3000 rpm	10-3000 rpm	10-3000 rpm	20 - 3,850rpm	50-3890 rpm
2 Ratios
Reverse	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	No
Toolrest Post	30mm	30mm	30mm	25.4 mm	25.4 mm
Headstock Bore	15mm	15mm	15mm	10mm	15mm
Through Tailstock	10.5mm	10.5mm	10.5mm	10mm	15mm
Quill Travel	75mm	75mm	75mm	120mm	100mm
Net Weight	296kg	?	250kg/299kg	249/303Kg	179Kg
Dimen L x W x H	1060x720x1280mm		1270x710x1280	Pkg size 1670*679*860mm
Features & factors	5mm metal adjust height stand 700mm footprint Digital RPM Movable control Ext bed option	4mm fixed metal stand	Adjust Ht 4mm/4-6mm stand 700mm footprint Digital RPM Movable control Ext bed option	Movable control Sliding bed - power assist Has 15A 1Ph plug	Traditional offering
Indicative price A$ at Nov 2020 (excluding delivery)	$6,792.00	$5,555.00	$5,978/$6,572	$4,999	$4,279

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

It sounds like Rikon is a nice brand. I just had experience with my Rikon bandsaw, and it is not particularly the best in terms of quality and stability.
I am no judge though, I just wanted to chime in and give some advice on machines I actually owned and used.

Which bandsaw? I have the 10-326. I don't really have a lot to compare it to, as it was my first bandsaw (well, in 30+ years anyway).

 

[Bill Alston]

Vibration, so what if cast iron might be better than steel for vibration dampening? No matter which material is used you're still stuck with a lack of rigidity using hand held tools. That's where there should be concern. Rigidity in tools is why CNC and OT can produce surfaces without catches needing little sanding.

This makes interesting reading.

Vibration Damping Principle of Cast Iron

The material selection for the base of a CNC lathe is critical for ensuring the stability and precision of the machine. Commonly used materials for the base include cast iron, steel, and concrete. The base provides high rigidity and stability, absorbing vibrations during machining to ensure processi

www.smartlathe.com

Unless a fabricated steel lathe is a lot cheaper I’m not sure of the point in using steel?

 

[Randy Heinemann]

I don’t know what classes you took but for most folks spending the savings on quality classes will make turning more enjoyable because their work will improve a lot more with gained skills than it will from using a better lathe.

True, but that wasn't my point. My point was that, while Robust lathes appear to be superior in construction and fit and finish to the Powermatic, in the end it isn't something that affects it's operation or results for the turner.

 

[William Rogers]

@odie Cast iron does absorb vibration better than steel. However that does not equate to a lathe with cast iron ways would have less vibration than one with steel. As others have pointed out mass, bearings, motor, and other structural things will play a more important part on the overall vibration. I am not a vibration engineer, but I have worked with some of the worlds best vibration engineers. There are so many things that affect vibration such as the durometer of the isolation mounts, structure design, and mass. While getting a vibration signature for a lathe with steel ways vs. cast iron may be nice, The outcome only tells what the vibration signature is for that lathe. What is really important is what the source of the vibration in the lathe and how it is mitigated. Steel or cast iron ways do not cause vibration. My point is vibration can be mitigated in a lot of different ways such as mass, structural design or isolation. The source of vibration is far more significant than the materials the ways are made from. Vibration testing is very costly when done right and very likely it would never be done on a lathe.

 

[Steve Worcester]

I think Brent hitting on one of the main elements, that cast iron is cheaper “in the long run”. When Robust and Oneway were starting out, and this is all conjecture on my part, the fabricated bed lathe was the cheapest route. To make a cast iron lathe requires many patterns, a foundry to pour them and many large machine tools to machine them. You won’t be machining a Powermatic long lathe on a Bridgeport milling machine. Speaking of Bridgeport mills, years ago, they left the raw castings for them in the weather for a year or so to acclimate and stress relieve. I think initially Robust and Oneway made a financial decision but it ended up being a very good machine decision as well.

The headstock, tailstock, and the banjo are cast in the USA. The bed designs on both the Robust and the Oneway are for rigidity.

 

[hockenbery]

in the end it isn't something that affects it's operation or results for the turner.

The most significant component is the operator!
I mostly agree with your assessment. But on the margins there may be benefits to the turner and to the end product.

I’ll suggest a ONEWAY or Robust offer marginal improvements for turners.
Significant items for me are the banjos, tailstocks, swing aways that don’t require lifting, spindle height adjustments, easier belt change, moveable controls,
These make adjusting quicker, easier, and maybe a bit more accurately.
One way has the easiest to use index wheel.

One example i encounter in demos is reverse turning on a Powermatic requires extending the quill 3” inches out to let the banjo clear the tailstock to position a short rest. Introduces a bit more vibration

While I’ve always succeeded in the reverse turn on the Powermatic, I think it would have been ever slightly better on a ONEWAY or robust.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Kind of true Bill, until it rusts. Hence the stainless steel. A short soap box comment from me: Woodturners today live in a "lathe rich" and "tool rich" environment. Never have so many different brands of good machines and good tools been available. We can all find what's just right for us. That leads us all to threads like this where we can have open discussions about our likes and dislikes.

Yes, each of us have different situations, desires, and needs, which leads us to different products. There is no single “best lathe” or single “best tool” for everyone.

 

[Randy Heinemann]

The most significant component is the operator!
I mostly agree with your assessment. But on the margins there may be benefits to the turner and to the end product.

I’ll suggest a ONEWAY or Robust offer marginal improvements for turners.
Significant items for me are the banjos, tailstocks, swing aways that don’t require lifting, spindle height adjustments, easier belt change, moveable controls,
These make adjusting quicker, easier, and maybe a bit more accurately.
One way has the easiest to use index wheel.

One example i encounter in demos is reverse turning on a Powermatic requires extending the quill 3” inches out to let the banjo clear the tailstock to position a short rest. Introduces a bit more vibration

While I’ve always succeeded in the reverse turn on the Powermatic, I think it would have been ever slightly better on a ONEWAY or robust.

Swing away tailstocks? Robust's is clearly superior to Powermatic and, as we age (I'm going on 74), the Powermatice tailstock swingaway accessory is one of those "features" which, on the Powermatic, not really a feature. It's an inconvenience. The Robust's is a dream. While that doesn't make the turner, Robust's "swing away" certainly makes it much more enjoyable. I don't believe it's worth twice the price of a Powermatic, but it's something to consider.

Indexing is something I just don't use in my work, so it's really irrelevant to me.

As far as Powermatic's quill is concerned isn't the distance it needs to be extended a function of the length (width?) of the tool rest? It has never been an issue for me, but I have never used the Powermatice tool rest that came with the lathe. It's way too long for most of my turnings. A 9" or 11" or 12" is more than enough, even for larger diameter pieces.

I no expert. I just know that the Powermatice suits my purposes and would suit most people's work well. It's solid. It doesn't move. It has sufficient power for anything I want to do. The Robust has all thouse things too and some additional improvements which make it, to some degree, a better lathe, but not twice as good.

In the end the bottom line is that any lathe that allows you to do the work you want to do is the lathe for you. As I've aged, I don't feel the need to plan for 20-30 years of use so sometimes that influences my choice of those few tools I buy these days. I've been lucky to be able to purchase high quality tools and either the Powermatic or Robust fit that description.

 

[hockenbery]

As far as Powermatic's quill is concerned isn't the distance it needs to be extended a function of the length (width?) of the tool rest?

Partly. But let me explain

I like to use a 4” rest for turning off the tenon when I have finished a NE bowl.
To get this small rest in a useable position on a powermatic I have to advance the quill a lot more than what I considered desirable because the banjo has the tool post offset to the left.
This leaves 2-3 “ of banjo to hit the tailstock so the tailstock has to be backed up to provide clearance.
Extending the quill adds more vibration. Probably not significant. But I feel it is one example where the end product may be affected by the lathe.
The ONEWAY banjo has the tool post on the center line. No clearance issue with the tailstock.

The powermatic is a good lathe. And you have made a good choice.
.

 

[Randy Heinemann]

I've never felt any vibration really. I turn off the tenons at the end also (although I may use a newly purchased vacuum chuck for those pieces it works for). I don't even own a small tool rest like a 4". I usually angle the tool rest in. Many times I also use Easy Wood Carbides, square and diamond, that I still own from my first turning days. They actualy work better for turning off tenons for me. In the end, we all buy tools which work for us and provide us with what we need to do the work we want to do.

I'm a big fan of "hybride" woodworking - using whatever tools work the best for me. In the case of turning that means I use what ever I'm used to and does the job, whether it's carbides (which many feel are not the mark of a good turner), steel gouges, scrapers, and hollowing tools...What gives me enjoyment is the actual work, not what tools or lathe I use (as long as the tools or lathe work for me).

So many discussions on all forums are like this one. Many think they have the answer to what's best when what's best is what works the best for each individual. The final piece is my goal. I know when I do good work and when I don't, whether it's a piece of furniture or a bowl. I also know when my work isn't as good as I'd like, but that's on me.

 

[Bill Blasic]

In less than two months I will be 78 years old and the Powermatic Swing Away is now the most important feature on my lathe. It takes about 8 seconds to unscrew and swing away and for me about 17 seconds to pull it back up and tighten the screw. Not really an inconvenience but a blessing for my back.

 

[Bill Blasic]

My friend Dave Betler did a coring demo at my club and he used an MT2 extension for coring. This might make it easier for what is talked about above. I bought one off Ebay for $23.99. Don't know if I will ever use it as I've cored for over 20 years not using a Extension Sleeve with Internal and External Precision Morse Taper.

 

[Brent@TurnRobust]

This is certainly an interesting thread. I read a lot of threads on the different forums, as it's important to me to know what woodturners are thinking. So here is a comment about cast vs steel vibration from someone who makes steel woodturning lathe beds for a living and machines other parts for those same lathes using machine tools with cast iron beds.

The vibration dampening qualities of cast iron are well documented, and some of that info is accurately presented in this thread. That information refers to high frequency vibrations found in balanced machine tools running many thousands of RPM cutting metal. These vibrations are caused by the cutter's interaction with the material being cut, not by out of balance work.

The vibration woodturners are concerned about in is low frequency vibration caused by out of balance work. I'll argue the high frequency vibration information has little relevance to this issue. Other factors, as already described by others, are more important.

This is not to be confused with trying to cut wood that is too thin, with the vibration problems inherent to the wood and the nature of your cut. That's a whole other discussion.

We all have our favorites, but I think in a blind test, 99.9% of woodturners would be unable to determine what kind of lathe bed they were turning on.

 

[Dave Landers]

the banjo has the tool post offset to the left

And the tailstock tips 'backwards', away from the headstock. So the clamping plates of the banjo and tailstock bump against each other. Only really a problem if you're trying to get in close, like turning small parts with a small toolrest or getting the tool rest in next to the bottom of a bowl etc.

I don't notice any vibration problems really, but I know they're more likely with the quill extended. So I pretty much don't get this design decision (nor that it's continued thru all the 3520 updates A B C). Also it is annoying to crank the quill so far out knowing I'm just going to have to crank it all the way back in to eject the center. And then back out - just to clear the banjo again.)

I like my PM. It does everything I need it to. But this interference between banjo and tailstock is one thing that consistently annoys me.

 

[Aaron Harris]

And the tailstock tips 'backwards', away from the headstock. So the clamping plates of the banjo and tailstock bump against each other. Only really a problem if you're trying to get in close, like turning small parts with a small toolrest or getting the tool rest in next to the bottom of a bowl etc.

I don't notice any vibration problems really, but I know they're more likely with the quill extended. So I pretty much don't get this design decision (nor that it's continued thru all the 3520 updates A B C). Also it is annoying to crank the quill so far out knowing I'm just going to have to crank it all the way back in to eject the center. And then back out - just to clear the banjo again.)

I like my PM. It does everything I need it to. But this interference between banjo and tailstock is one thing that consistently annoys me.

Yep-I deal with this on about every turn. It's my only quibble with the PM, really.

 

[Bill Alston]

In less than two months I will be 78 years old and the Powermatic Swing Away is now the most important feature on my lathe. It takes about 8 seconds to unscrew and swing away and for me about 17 seconds to pull it back up and tighten the screw. Not really an inconvenience but a blessing for my back.

I have a Midi lathe and didn’t appreciate the design of the tailstock until I started using it. Due to the open design I can easily remove/replace it one handed.

 

[Connie Sowell]

What this thread, or another like it, needs is a useful summary of the specs and key features of each lathe currently on the market.

I put the attached spreadsheet together for another forum a few years back of the larger lathes available to us then down here in Australia. Someone needs to do the same for Nth America.

A topic that has contributions like, "I have an X-lathe and I love it except for its thingamabob" is of value for the qualitative comments, but if I was looking to replace my lathe I would find a spreadsheet like this a valuable starting point.

Here is a sample from that spreadsheet...

Larger lathes currently available here in Australia
As at: 5 November 2020
Make	Vicmarc	Vicmarc	Vicmarc	Woodfast	Woodfast
Model	VL300S ASM	VL300SML	VL240	WL3040A	M910
Nominal HP	3	2	2 or 2	3 (apparently 4)	2
kW	2.2	1.5	1.5 or 1.5	2.2 (2.98)
Configuration	Short Bed		Standard/ Heavy Opt	Sliding bed	Standard
Centre Height to Bed	300mm	300mm	240mm	397mm	260mm
Swing over bed/gap	600mm	600mm	490mm	794mm	520mm
Outboard Swing
Between Centers	500mm	500mm	500mm	1016mm	975mm
Working Height to Centre	1070-1370mm	1070-1370mm	1020-1195mm/ 1065-1340mm	1118 mm
Swivel Head	No	No	Yes/Yes	No	No
Sliding Head	No	No	No/No	No	No
Thread	M30 x 3.5mm	M30 x 3.5mm	M30 x 3.5mm	M30 x 3.5mm	M30 x 3.5mm
Indexing Holes	24	24	24	36	24
Morse Taper	No 2	No 2	No 2	No 2	No 2
Bearings	Tapered	Tapered	Tapered		4 x Quatro
EVS via 3 Ratios	10-3000 rpm	10-3000 rpm	10-3000 rpm	20 - 3,850rpm	50-3890 rpm
2 Ratios
Reverse	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	No
Toolrest Post	30mm	30mm	30mm	25.4 mm	25.4 mm
Headstock Bore	15mm	15mm	15mm	10mm	15mm
Through Tailstock	10.5mm	10.5mm	10.5mm	10mm	15mm
Quill Travel	75mm	75mm	75mm	120mm	100mm
Net Weight	296kg	?	250kg/299kg	249/303Kg	179Kg
Dimen L x W x H	1060x720x1280mm		1270x710x1280	Pkg size 1670*679*860mm
Features & factors	5mm metal adjust height stand 700mm footprint Digital RPM Movable control Ext bed option	4mm fixed metal stand	Adjust Ht 4mm/4-6mm stand 700mm footprint Digital RPM Movable control Ext bed option	Movable control Sliding bed - power assist Has 15A 1Ph plug	Traditional offering
Indicative price A$ at Nov 2020 (excluding delivery)	$6,792.00	$5,555.00	$5,978/$6,572	$4,999	$4,279

What a great idea, Neil!

I caught the turning bug from someone I was following on Twitter. So I bought a $200 lathe off Amazon (pre-pandemic) and some carbide tools and did some practice turnings but never a complete item. When we moved here from the west coast, the lathe wouldn't turn with any weight on it. So after discussion and researching what I could, my husband and I bought a Laguna 18/20. I still haven't turned a complete project yet but am getting closer. I'm happy with the Laguna and since this is only a hobby and not for making profit, I'm sure this is the last lathe I'll ever buy.

I would like to find someone to come over to my house and teach me what I'm doing right and what I could do better. I've got a ton of wood just waiting for me to make it into something beautiful!

 

[Aaron Harris]

What a great idea, Neil!

I caught the turning bug from someone I was following on Twitter. So I bought a $200 lathe off Amazon (pre-pandemic) and some carbide tools and did some practice turnings but never a complete item. When we moved here from the west coast, the lathe wouldn't turn with any weight on it. So after discussion and researching what I could, my husband and I bought a Laguna 18/20. I still haven't turned a complete project yet but am getting closer. I'm happy with the Laguna and since this is only a hobby and not for making profit, I'm sure this is the last lathe I'll ever buy.

I would like to find someone to come over to my house and teach me what I'm doing right and what I could do better. I've got a ton of wood just waiting for me to make it into something beautiful!

Connie-I took up turning during the pandemic, and most of my learning came from YouTube videos and trial and error. Once I started getting some hands-on help, my skills progressed quickly. Maybe look for AAW members or experienced turners near you in CO. Most are happy to help!

 

[hockenbery]

What a great idea, Neil!

I caught the turning bug from someone I was following on Twitter. So I bought a $200 lathe off Amazon (pre-pandemic) and some carbide tools and did some practice turnings but never a complete item. When we moved here from the west coast, the lathe wouldn't turn with any weight on it. So after discussion and researching what I could, my husband and I bought a Laguna 18/20. I still haven't turned a complete project yet but am getting closer. I'm happy with the Laguna and since this is only a hobby and not for making profit, I'm sure this is the last lathe I'll ever buy.

I would like to find someone to come over to my house and teach me what I'm doing right and what I could do better. I've got a ton of wood just waiting for me to make it into something beautiful!

You are surrounded by some of the finest turners on the planet. A great time to reach out to them.

Consider a class with Trent Bosch in ft Collins.
Consider hooking up with the Rocky Mountain Woodturners - they meet in Loveland- http://www.rmwt.org/

You might consider attending the Rocky Mountain symposium later this month.
Great lineup of demonstrators. Great trade show.

Rocky Mountain Woodturning Symposium

rmwoodturningsymposium.com

If color interests you Kimberly winkle does a great presentation on milk paint
Joe Fleming does a great airbrushing demo.
You can meet Trent Bosch in the trade show.
@Michael Anderson who is active on this forum and helps run it - will be there.
Also my distant neighbor Rudy Lopez will be there too along with a half dozen friends.

Have fun

 

[Bill Boehme]

I would like to find someone to come over to my house and teach me what I'm doing right and what I could do better. I've got a ton of wood just waiting for me to make it into something beautiful!

You need to attend a meeting of the Front Range Woodturners in Denver. They meet on the first Tuesday of the month at 6:15 PM in the basement of Rockler Woodworking and Hardware, 2553 S Colorado Blvd #108.

 

[Bill Alston]

You need to attend a meeting of the Front Range Woodturners in Denver. They meet on the first Tuesday of the month at 6:15 PM in the basement of Rockler Woodworking and Hardware, 2553 S Colorado Blvd #108.

Always a good idea to join a local club if there is one. 😉

 

[Chris Hoehle]

What a great idea, Neil!

I caught the turning bug from someone I was following on Twitter. So I bought a $200 lathe off Amazon (pre-pandemic) and some carbide tools and did some practice turnings but never a complete item. When we moved here from the west coast, the lathe wouldn't turn with any weight on it. So after discussion and researching what I could, my husband and I bought a Laguna 18/20. I still haven't turned a complete project yet but am getting closer. I'm happy with the Laguna and since this is only a hobby and not for making profit, I'm sure this is the last lathe I'll ever buy.

I would like to find someone to come over to my house and teach me what I'm doing right and what I could do better. I've got a ton of wood just waiting for me to make it into something beautiful!

Hi Connie- In addition to the other great CO resources already mentioned, I teach a series of one day workshops at the Denver Tool Library, mostly on weekends:

Woodturning Classes - Bowls, Vases, Candlesticks Essentials — Denver Tool Library | Lending, DIY Classes & Community Workshop

Learn woodturning in less than a day. Quick, affordable, and practical classes. Easy sign up. Friendly atmosphere. Beginners welcome! Learn the traditional craft of woodturning in a friendly and supportive environment under guidance from our expert instructor. The creative possibilities of the wood

denvertoollibrary.org

& I will be one of the demonstrators at the Rocky Mountain Woodturning Symposium as well!

 

[Gary W Miller]

I liked Kevin's comment re the lathe "disappearing" whilst using it, responding to your every need without fuss. It offers confidence. My Oneway provides all of that and, I suspect Robust does as well. It's something you can't put a price tag on but well apprecieated if it's there. Regarding choice of steel vs cast iron, If you talk to Kevin at Oneway or his dad, these were choices made by skilled, qualified engineers. There might have been cost considerations but the bottom line with these guys is "does it meet with my design objectives?" At their price point, it had better and it does. (Incidentally, I don't consider their 12" lathe belonging in a conversation about mid-to-large lathes).

 

[Bill Boehme]

to your every need without fuss. It offers confidence. My Oneway provides all of that and, I suspect Robust does as well. It's something you can't put a price tag on but well apprecieated if it's there. (Hmmm, what happened to the beginning of my reply. I'll assume it 's already posted itself somehow). Regarding choice of steel vs cast iron, If you talk to Kevin at robust or his dad, these were choices made by skilled, qualified engineers. There might have been cost considerations but the bottom line with these guys is "does it meet with my design objectives?" at their price point, it had better and does. My 2c.

You probably accidentally hit the CTRL key while typing the letter Z which will send your typing to Bit Heaven (or the other place). Another Gremlin caused Kevin Clay and his dad to go to work for Brent English at Robust.

 

[Connie Sowell]

Hi Connie- In addition to the other great CO resources already mentioned, I teach a series of one day workshops at the Denver Tool Library, mostly on weekends:

That's where I know your picture from! I've been waiting for when I'm a little less busy to attend one of those. The biggest problem I have with going somewhere else to learn is that by the time I get to my lathe I've forgotten most of it.

Woodturning Classes - Bowls, Vases, Candlesticks Essentials — Denver Tool Library | Lending, DIY Classes & Community Workshop

Learn woodturning in less than a day. Quick, affordable, and practical classes. Easy sign up. Friendly atmosphere. Beginners welcome! Learn the traditional craft of woodturning in a friendly and supportive environment under guidance from our expert instructor. The creative possibilities of the wood

denvertoollibrary.org

& I will be one of the demonstrators at the Rocky Mountain Woodturning Symposium as well!

I'm looking forward to that!!

 

[Connie Sowell]

You need to attend a meeting of the Front Range Woodturners in Denver. They meet on the first Tuesday of the month at 6:15 PM in the basement of Rockler Woodworking and Hardware, 2553 S Colorado Blvd #108.

I've been to a few of those and have switched to the one in Loveland as it's an easier drive for me to.

You have a beautiful cat!

 

[Connie Sowell]

Connie-I took up turning during the pandemic, and most of my learning came from YouTube videos and trial and error. Once I started getting some hands-on help, my skills progressed quickly. Maybe look for AAW members or experienced turners near you in CO. Most are happy to help!

I have also watched a ton of YouTube videos. It really helped me to realize that turning was the form of woodworking I enjoy most. Every time I go out to my shop I come up with new non-turning related ideas of things to make. Some day I'll get around to doing them!

 

[Connie Sowell]

You are surrounded by some of the finest turners on the planet. A great time to reach out to them.

Consider a class with Trent Bosch in ft Collins.
Consider hooking up with the Rocky Mountain Woodturners - they meet in Loveland- http://www.rmwt.org/

You might consider attending the Rocky Mountain symposium later this month.
Great lineup of demonstrators. Great trade show.

Rocky Mountain Woodturning Symposium

rmwoodturningsymposium.com

If color interests you Kimberly winkle does a great presentation on milk paint
Joe Fleming does a great airbrushing demo.
You can meet Trent Bosch in the trade show.
@Michael Anderson who is active on this forum and helps run it - will be there.
Also my distant neighbor Rudy Lopez will be there too along with a half dozen friends.

Have fun

I am a member of RMWT but often don't have time in an evening to go to a meeting. I really need to rearrange things so that I can go more.

I signed up for the RM Symposium as soon as I returned from the AAW Symposium! I went to last year's RM Symposium and said to my husband, "I have found my people".