First try at it. Didn't quite get it centered. One side is 1/4 and the other is thinner.
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What’s on your lathe?
- Thread starter Rusty Nesmith
- Start date
Did you use a drive spur on the bark side and even the sides by adjusting the tail stock to get the bark lined up to locate the tenon?
Since I didn’t have a leg to stand on with my last hollow form I decided to start with the foot or should I say a footed bowl. Turned it, left room for the feet ( did this during the green turning last year), undercut the rim, decided to fill with turquoise, and ran out of turquoise 
. Placed an order for a fine turquoise to fill in and finish next week.
The decided to try another hollow form today.
. Placed an order for a fine turquoise to fill in and finish next week.The decided to try another hollow form today.
Every time I see something you did I instinctively dislike you. But what I then realize I dislike is the feeling that you have such great wood compared to me. 14" of walnut or maple is incomprehensible to me. Imagine how nice that would be to turn! Enjoy, I will try to be happy with a 3-4" bowl of walnut, and maybe a 14" bowl of hemlock. How much would it cost to mail a 20" walnut log to Alaska? Maybe I should move to NC.Since I didn’t have a leg to stand on with my last hollow form I decided to start with the foot or should I say a footed bowl. Turned it, left room for the feet ( did this during the green turning last year), undercut the rim, decided to fill with turquoise, and ran out of turquoise
The decided to try another hollow form today.
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I’m am lucky to get the large walnut, maple, and cherry logs. I have a lot on my property but won’t cut a tree just to make bowls. I do have a couple of tree service, and grading companies that get logs for me when I need them!
Not sure of cost from NC but CA has Claro Walnut that looks about the same as black walnut and a lot closer to you
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Hmm Priority Mail Large Flat rate box is around $20 , so if someone could cut a 12" x 12" x 8" thick chunk of log, they could probably ship it to you, I would think (Though that brings the problems associated with transporting wood across state lines - may run afoul of some state laws or regulations unless the wood is kiln dried & treated for bugs/insects/etc... which is why I couldn't offer to ship you some of my stash...)
Yes. It wasn't cut straight and flat on the ends so I gave it my best guess. I should have cut it straight before mounting.
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The flutes weren't quite enough, so I added some dots to go along with the "dashes". Meh. They got too busy on the rim. Maybe I'll re-explore them in the future.
I know it would be possible, to some degree, though I was mainly joking. Getting the size of chunks he turns to me is not realistic. I don't have the money for that, or the interest to spend it if I did have the money. I'm content turning small pieces, and when I get something big, I will turn it. I don't care for a 20" bowl, or even a 10" bowl. I only make larger bowls to sell, and the market in my town likes a bowl made from Alaskan yellow cedar, mountain hemlock, Sitka spruce, etc. I wouldn't want to spend any money on getting that wood, because that would hurt the profits. I accept that we don't have any real hardwoods here, so it's just amusing to look at the rest of the country turning such nice woods.
Not sure of the species. It's heavy, dense and hard. Came in an unlabeled box of cutoffs.
8x3 Big Leaf maple burl with undercut rim last evening:
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5 goblets a “bowl” and a “plate” made out of the same toothpick. Turned very poorly. Thanks for the idea Alan.
That’s amazing. Here’s a goblet with a captured ring in Ellsworth’s collection; I don’t know the maker.
Attachments
I was eyeing some magnifying headband from Woodcraft, that might help. I can make them, but they aren't very nice (surface finish, shape). I hope I can improve on the proportions and design, need to take my time.
Seemed like a good day to second turn a 14-1/2” maple platter! I don’t do a lot of mortise so I try to leave enough of a gap in my chuck to get the calipers in to check the thicknes, recess is about 1/8”. Considering trading for eggs
Three small 6" bowls last evening.....Bocote, Goncalo Alves and Zebrawood:
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Rally cool shape, David. Love the form.Seemed like a good day to second turn a 14-1/2” maple platter! I don’t do a lot of mortise so I try to leave enough of a gap in my chuck to get the calipers in to check the thicknes, recess is about 1/8”. Considering trading for eggs
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Thank you, I’ve been rewatching some platter videos from Mike Mahoney and Glen Lucas. It’s a little deeper than most platters so it could be a shallow bowl
Grabbed a chunk of store bought cedar.
Phil-I just finished a large (13"-ish) natural edge square cedar tray from a board; I haven't had time for pics yet. But anyway, every time I turn cedar I say I'm never turning it again. So soft, brittle and chippy, and scratches if you look at it cross-ways. But then I always come back to it because it can be very beautiful and fragrant. I'm sure you will spin up something nice out of that blank! I turned quite a few cedar Christmas trees for my holiday fairs a few weeks back, and the old ladies who do Christmas villages were snapping them up faster than I could finish them! Show us the finished product!
Posted in the gallery.
This is the beginning of a cooperative piece that I am making with my daughter for our club’s March challenge. It is inspired by a recent posting in the photo Gallery by Dave Landers, https://www.aawforum.org/community/media/tri-corner-goblet.25143/
My daughter will be doing the stem portion because I have been told my finials look like pawns on a chess Board. The base may or may not be included in the stem. That will be my daughter’s choice. I may be responsible for the base.
I thought I was getting off easy doing the tri corner goblet portion. However, it was my first attempt at turning a tri corner and it is not easy. (At least for me.) The points of the goblet are about 2 1/4 inches apart. The wood is Oak. Left over from a recent platter.
My daughter will be doing the stem portion because I have been told my finials look like pawns on a chess Board. The base may or may not be included in the stem. That will be my daughter’s choice. I may be responsible for the base.
I thought I was getting off easy doing the tri corner goblet portion. However, it was my first attempt at turning a tri corner and it is not easy. (At least for me.) The points of the goblet are about 2 1/4 inches apart. The wood is Oak. Left over from a recent platter.
Decided to take the left over piece and hack at it with the band saw. Was looking for a more rustic look. Thinking dish or top of a pedestal. First coat of gloss going on.
Here’s the right-angled, natural edge box elder burl, top and bottom. The bowl area is about 4.5 inches in diameter.
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Kind of makes it look like wenge or bocote almost.
My buddy was experimenting with bleaching wenge last night and I mentioned dying it after. So I ordered a big wenge blank.
Unfortunately that black locust is the only one I had dry to turn. Have another 2-3 foot log though. (but I'm lazy)
My buddy was experimenting with bleaching wenge last night and I mentioned dying it after. So I ordered a big wenge blank.
Unfortunately that black locust is the only one I had dry to turn. Have another 2-3 foot log though. (but I'm lazy)
I really like your fumed locust. Do you know how Osage Orange / hedge apple will take fuming?
Well, after dealing with the sanding humps, which mostly involved hand-sanding with thin flexible pads up to 800-grit (and wet-sanding in a few thinned coats of Tried and True Danish Oil with the 600 and 800, and allowing it to cure for a few days), I remounted this Oregon black walnut platter blank and gave it a nice friction polish with Yorkshire Grit to bring out that beautiful swirling grain. I plan to flip it into that recess tomorrow and do the interior; praying I don't screw it up-wish me luck!
I threw some off cuts of several native species in my simple fuming box a couple years ago. If I recall correctly osage orange and cherry darkened only minimally. Not enough that I've ever fumed a finished hedge apple turning. I suggest you give it a go though and let me know what you think. For me, black locust and white oak were the most dramatic darkening. I also love the modest effect on honey locust. Similar modest effect on red oak- fuming tones down the red. Don't be fooled by the slight greenish hue you may see upon removing some species from the chamber as it vanishes in a day or two.
I do a lot of fuming, mostly with white oak. White oak heartwood can be spectacular after fuming, although the results can vary greatly from tree to tree, and even within a single plank. White oak sapwood does not fume very well, going sort of muddy greyish. I try to avoid sapwood when fuming. I've never been very happy with the results from red oak. It doesn't darken much, and the results are disappointing on almost all counts.
big blank of burl was to become a hollow form. Small catch hollowing kicked the tool back and fractured the too thin rim so it’s got a bigger opening than planned. Still have to finish the bottom. Sprayed it with water to get an idea of how it would look oiled 
Past midnight and just coming in from the shop! 
This is a 10" Tiger Myrtle from Oregon. The dark patches are mineral stains. The tree draws
minerals from the ground and sucks them up through the roots and into the trunk, causing
the discoloration.
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This is a 10" Tiger Myrtle from Oregon. The dark patches are mineral stains. The tree draws
minerals from the ground and sucks them up through the roots and into the trunk, causing
the discoloration.
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