None of it is labeled. Looks like a piece of maple, walnut and cedar in there. Not sure on the rest. Only one board has a crack in it. The rest are just small blems that would be turned off anyway. I'm happy with it for the money!
Nice Michael! I turned Redwood burl a few years ago and it sure is soft. That Bloodwood looks really nice with the Redwood.Finished the pedestal for the current egg project. This was the one in progress above.
Redwood salvaged from my back deck that I recently tore down. Three Bloodwood pewa. This was a somewhat challenging turn for me, as the timber was very old, brittle and soft (janka hardness 420), and there is a pretty stark difference in hardness between the early- and late-wood. I mainly used a spindle roughing gouge, but also a spindle detail gouge for the top and bottom and to chamfer the corners. I chose Bloodwood (Satine) to complement the Redwood colors; however, Bloodwood is very hard (janka 2900), so it took quite a bit of care to not have the pewa proud of the surface of the spindle. All that said, sanding was pretty minimal, but I still went through the grits up to 600. Originally, I was going to use an oil finish, but decided against considering the potential for splotchiness (I have used wood conditioner in the past, but still...). Instead, I decided to lay down a few coats of shellac, sanding with 600 after each, and then finished with two coats of paste wax. It's not totally perfect, but I'm still pretty pleased with how it turned out.
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You know... a starter Woodland Mills HM122 log mill is cheaper than a new Harvey T60 ... I had debated getting myself one (Living in firewood country it's fairly easy to get a local log truck to haul a load of poles for under a grand - Firewood logs may not be the best for quality lumber, but for $600 for a truckload of logs which might give a couple thousand board feet of lumber plus a few hundred bowl blanks and spindle blanks, it'd seem pretty cheap, if you don't factor in the backbreaking labor involved in running a HM-122 mill...
Great idea to stabilize a knot with a pewa. I used CA yesterday and it still blew out, leaving a hole that now is getting colored epoxy.Finished the pedestal for the current egg project. This was the one in progress above.
Redwood salvaged from my back deck that I recently tore down. Three Bloodwood pewa. This was a somewhat challenging turn for me, as the timber was very old, brittle and soft (janka hardness 420), and there is a pretty stark difference in hardness between the early- and late-wood. I mainly used a spindle roughing gouge, but also a spindle detail gouge for the top and bottom and to chamfer the corners. I chose Bloodwood (Satine) to complement the Redwood colors; however, Bloodwood is very hard (janka 2900), so it took quite a bit of care to not have the pewa proud of the surface of the spindle. All that said, sanding was pretty minimal, but I still went through the grits up to 600. Originally, I was going to use an oil finish, but decided against considering the potential for splotchiness (I have used wood conditioner in the past, but still...). Instead, I decided to lay down a few coats of shellac, sanding with 600 after each, and then finished with two coats of paste wax. It's not totally perfect, but I'm still pretty pleased with how it turned out.
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Well unless you have a branch showing on the surface of the log or a noticeable hump or swirl on the outside there is no way to know what is inside especially as you get closer to the pith. By splitting the log along the pith you can get a slightly better idea of where those grown over knots are.Well, I have thought about a mill, and Glenn Lucas really liked his, but after thinking about it a while, I just don't think it is the best option. For me, I don't want any knots in my bowls. That means each section of a log must be cut differently, depending on where the knots are. If you cut straight through the center of a log, you get, to me, a lot of waste wood. Yes, I am fussy like that...
robo hippy
Stunning!Australian brown Mallee burl.....(click 2x to inspect the details)
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If I was 30 or 40 years younger and had some woodlands, I would want a mill. Watched a few videos about them. One interesting thing is that Woodmizer makes carbide toothed blades that cut like butter for far longer than the bimetal blades do. I did ask once if they made that type of blade for home bandsaws and never got an answer. I would switch to one for my Laguna 16HD bandsaw....
robo hippy
I’m beginning to feel someone has to be touched to enjoy basket illusion so much.
Looks like it would, maybe wrap with clear plastic or tape. Post your progress, very interested in seeing this.Tempting fate with this mulberry burl. I’ll smooth out the curve of the profile and start hollowing tomorrow…and hope it stays in one piece 😅View attachment 66372View attachment 66376
It’s pretty solid right now, but I plan on going thin, so we’ll see. A little gaffers tape may help a bit. I’ll keep y’all posted 👍🏻Looks like it would, maybe wrap with clear plastic or tape. Post your progress, very interested in seeing this.
Wrap with blue painter's tape, then wrap with duck tape. That makes easy to remove.Tempting fate with this mulberry burl. I’ll smooth out the curve of the profile and start hollowing tomorrow…and hope it stays in one piece 😅View attachment 66372View attachment 66376
Tempting fate with this mulberry burl. I’ll smooth out the curve of the profile and start hollowing tomorrow…and hope it stays in one piece 😅View attachment 66372View attachment 66376
Looks great. How thick do you leave the hollow form for second turning, do you use the 10% like bowls?Second turned 3 more today. All need a finish.
Exactly. Haven’t made many. Sometimes I’ll rough turn and then microwave so I can finish turn sooner.do you use the 10% like bowls?
Not on the lathe yet.
Helped out at a lumber mill. He is milling up and giving me three cherry trees for payment on fixing his tractor.
Figured I could at least help.
First load. The other two trees are still out in a field. He says he has an apple tree also if I want it.
Log was a little over 4 foot long. Got 3-4 and 5 inch thick pieces. It was cut down about 3 years ago. View attachment 66447