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What’s on your lathe?

Thanks, everyone, for the really good ideas on loosening the chuck and faceplate. @Brian Gustin chucking up a lever arm brought a "Doh!" -- what a simple idea, embarrassed I didn't think of it. @Kent Reisdorph I've got a Talon; the adapter has two threaded holes for, I imagine, set screws, but I don't believe those were included. I'll re-check the packaging. @Dave Landers I like the idea of drilling a hole in the faceplate, then keeping an eye out for one of @Marc Banka's pin spanner.
 
Rusty Nesmith said:
Bowling balls. That is why I call them bowling bowl.
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You know, I wouldn't mind trying this. And since bowling alleys seem to be closing all over the place, I bet there are a lot of used bowling balls for sale at good prices? I would think they would be expensive to ship due to their size and weight, so maybe best to look around locally.
 
Aaron Harris said:
You know, I wouldn't mind trying this. And since bowling alleys seem to be closing all over the place, I bet there are a lot of used bowling balls for sale at good prices? I would think they would be expensive to ship due to their size and weight, so maybe best to look around locally.
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I have a bowling alley local that gives them to me for free. I will give him one as a thank you.
 
Finished up roughing the last few bowls for seasoning last night.....glad to get back to second turning and buffing a few that are in the queue.....

The shaving pile is getting out of hand now.....will have to do some clean-up tonight!

-o-

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Also took the 1928 Model A Ford out for the first spin of the new year yesterday!
photo_2024-03-07_16-23-41-2.jpg
 
Odie-Suddenly I don't feel too bad about my shop floor. And Rusty, I'm guessing the hardest part of turning a bowling bowl is cutting it in half safely? I imagine you need a very tight cradle/jig to do it without danger.
 
odie said:
Finished up roughing the last few bowls for seasoning last night.....glad to get back to second turning and buffing a few that are in the queue.....

The shaving pile is getting out of hand now.....will have to do some clean-up tonight!

-o-

View attachment 61315 View attachment 61316
Also took the 1928 Model A Ford out for the first spin of the new year yesterday!
View attachment 61322
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Cool car Odie! As a car guy I would love to have one of those!

Also I was wondering why the tool rest locking handle was cut shorter?
 
Gabriel Hoff said:
Cool car Odie! As a car guy I would love to have one of those!

Also I was wondering why the tool rest locking handle was cut shorter?
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Vincent Vogel said:
I like your truck Odie.
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Thanks.....If you like cars earlier than WW2, then the Model A Ford is the way to go. There is a whole industry making maintenance and replacement parts for them.....plus plenty of instructional videos explaining how to maintain them.

Gabriel.....Some here will remember the time I complained that the locking mechanism of the tool rest doesn't have hardened threads. I stripped out the original screw from over tightening. I cut this locking handle short, in order to prevent myself from not thinking, and doing the same thing. This works out pretty well for me, because very little pressure is actually needed to get a firm grip in the tool rest post. That may sound like a dumb thing to do, but it works for me......besides, when I bought a replacement, it came with another full length handle......and I have it stashed, just in case cutting down the original handle turned out to be a big mistake.....and in my case, it wasn't! 🙂

-o-
 
odie said:
The shaving pile is getting out of hand now.....will have to do some clean-up tonight!

-o-

View attachment 61316
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Odie

I wouldn't call that shavings pile out of hand!
Mine can get up to waist high before I put down the turning tools and pick up the shovel...🙂
I think the following pile took fifteen large garbage bin bags to pick-up.

Shavings pile.jpg
 
Neil S said:
Odie

I wouldn't call that shavings pile out of hand!
Mine can get up to waist high before I put down the turning tools and pick up the shovel...🙂
I think the following pile took fifteen large garbage bin bags to pick-up.

View attachment 61415
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Well yeah, I can agree with that, Neil. Indeed, it's relatively small when compared to your pile of shavings! 🙂

When I say it's getting out of hand, I'm comparing it to the pile of shavings I usually get before I decide it's time to clean up. 🙂

-o-
 
Neil S said:
Odie

I wouldn't call that shavings pile out of hand!
Mine can get up to waist high before I put down the turning tools and pick up the shovel...🙂
I think the following pile took fifteen large garbage bin bags to pick-up.

View attachment 61415
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Haha! I don't think I've made that many shavings in the past decade! But, I usually just make small stuff ... and not very often.🙁
 
I don't think I have ever used the 'snap' method to seat my chucks. Never felt that I needed it, especially since I only power sand. With hand sanding, it may come in handy since you do need to reverse your lathe. I did use one of the delrin washer things in between my chuck and the 'seat' on the headstock spindle. Think I had 2 of them, lost one and the other one eventually wore out, I think. With the Vicmark chucks, I just insert the chuck key, a hex wrench, into the hole and most of the time that is all I need. Once in a while I may need to use the spindle lock.

robo hippy
 
I basically use the flick of the wrist every time I mount a chuck on the lathe. the reason for that is that I learned and worked with metal turning lathes, you want the chuck to be seated properly.

If you do not do so you can end up with a very tight chuck on the metal lathe, (and also on a wood turning lathe) as for tightening of the chuck because of shocks, that does not happen if the chuck is installed properly, and the surfaces are properly machined and fitted.

The shocks of interrupted turning metal do not tighten the chuck much at all if any, I do have experience with that, the same with turning wood, it will not tighten the chuck if installed properly on a quality machined lathe and chuck.

Both surfaces must be clean and fit solidly together, that will prevent jamming of the chuck on the lathe spindle, so no foreign material between the finely machined faces.
 
I'm new and I'm trying a bunch of different things to get a feel for how to do things and to begin to understand my tools, process, finishes, and shapes... Over the last 2 weeks, I made 2 bowls from purchased kiln dried blanks, and turned 6 projects from green blanks that I made. 4 are for twice turning and I've put them up to dry. 2 are once turned live edge green bowls. It's going to be interesting to see how they warp over time. My first bowl and some of the rough turnings are attached.
 

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Leo Van Der Loo said:
I basically use the flick of the wrist every time I mount a chuck on the lathe. the reason for that is that I learned and worked with metal turning lathes, you want the chuck to be seated properly.

If you do not do so you can end up with a very tight chuck on the metal lathe, (and also on a wood turning lathe) as for tightening of the chuck because of shocks, that does not happen if the chuck is installed properly, and the surfaces are properly machined and fitted.

The shocks of interrupted turning metal do not tighten the chuck much at all if any, I do have experience with that, the same with turning wood, it will not tighten the chuck if installed properly on a quality machined lathe and chuck.

Both surfaces must be clean and fit solidly together, that will prevent jamming of the chuck on the lathe spindle, so no foreign material between the finely machined faces.
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Sort of the same reason I use the flick - on my particular HF lathe if I just thread the chuck on and snug it up , the chuck can have a very slight wobble (about .002" - After hours of inspection, traced back to unevenly cut spindle threads once I got a 1x8 thread repair die threaded on, it was obvious!) which I almost eliminate with the "flick" (The spindle itself still has a slight runout but spin up the lathe to top speed with a light behind it, you can see the shadow of it) Either case as I mentioned, long as I am not too aggressive with the "flick", it pops loose easily with sort of the reverse - a sharp "pop" on whatever leverage you are applying to remove it breaks the slight bit of torque loose.
 
Tom De Winter said:
Nothing spectacular. Just playing with multi axis turning. This is my first parallel axis circular turning learning experience. It has plenty of insect tunnels and probably should be relegated to the designer firewood pile.
That said, it will probably end up as a candle holder. 😉
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I love multiaxis work. Keep innovating.
 
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