What’s on your lathe?

[Leo Van Der Loo]

A friend gave me a couple of chunks of Sumac a long while ago (not sure what species). One of those situations where the wood looked so crummy you almost want to say no. BUT, I had never turned Sumac, so I couldn’t pass it up. It sat, and sat, and sat, until today when I decided to turn a mini-calabash out of it. The wood was super dry, super soft, hollow-pith, but very beautiful. Green and brown colors and wide growth rings. Here are before, during, and after shots:

View attachment 61135
View attachment 61136
View attachment 61137

We do have Staghorn Sumac here in southern Ontario, and I have turned some, still have pieces sitting in my storage, it seems to grow slower than what you have there Michael, there are other species, one is called Poison Sumac { also called Swamp Sumac) with the same/similar poisonous outcome as Poison Ivy and poison Oak, rash and blisters, though I do not know what it looks like, or if it grew in the London area, over here in NW Ontario no Sumac grows 😀

I just now went to the storage and shop, had to close them, as I had them opened up to warm up some, like it is around 5-6 degrees C, and like the shop was below freezing (cooling water by the grinder was solid ice) we had a couple of cold nights -29C, much warmer now ;-))

Anyway took a couple pictures of a Sumac log I have sitting and the turned bowl from the largest end of the Staghorn wood I had, kind of a bird-beak shape, and I don't like it, so it sits.

I also have smaller pieces sitting in the shop, might use them someday, though that Pith in it is a nuisance.

 

[Michael Anderson]

I was wondering if you had any Sumac turnings Leo. That’s a rich brown color on the turning! How long ago did you turn it?

Random fact, Poison Sumac is now in a totally different genus than true Sumacs. Kind of funny. It’s rare to see around here, but you will if you look in the right places. There are some areas around here where all three of the “poisons” (ivy, oak, and sumac).

If I had to guess, this is probably either Winged or Smooth Sumac, but I can’t tell them sort by their bark. We have a couple of very random, small Staghorn Sumac populations, as well as another rare type I can’t remember the name. Fragrant Sumac also grows around here, but it is a low shrub.

The pith is problematic for sure. You can see in the first image I posted, the piece was the convergence of 3 large branches and a smaller fourth. All hollow pith, which made for a bunch of holes. Fortunately, I only need a small section, so it wasn’t too bad. The bowl ended up being about 1.5” diameter, and has a small hole on the bottom about a 1/4 of the way up. Interesting wood, for sure one of the worst I’ve turned (though maybe that was just this piece specifically). I have one more slightly larger chunk that I’m going to save for a while. Not in a rush. Lol.

 

[Phil Hamel]

Slapped a final coat of Tung oil on the 10 inch bowl. Turned a piece of crotch that was left over from one of the other bowls.

 

[Jay Peterson]

A chunk of California Pepper with some burl that was dripping wet when I turned it for the first time. Took it off the lathe and stuck it back into the shavings. Two weeks later I put it back on the lathe and hollowed it to help the piece dry. It is still very wet. So I stuck it back in the shavings. I will see what it looks like in a couple more weeks.
Jay

 

[Sam Fleisher]

I have been thinking about doing one for myself as well. I would love to see the finished product.

Thanks,

Bob

Here you go. Have mercy! lol

It doesn't have a finish yet and I need to get on that $%^& you tube and learn how to tie some knots or something if I'm going to keep a loop on it.

If the bigger distance under the blue inlay on the top looks funny it's because my wood burner is not going to be here till Monday. Still not sure what to put there. I'm not real artistic.

 

[Bob Hall]

Here you go. Have mercy! lol

It doesn't have a finish yet and I need to get on that $%^& you tube and learn how to tie some knots or something if I'm going to keep a loop on it.

If the bigger distance under the blue inlay on the top looks funny it's because my wood burner is not going to be here till Monday. Still not sure what to put there. I'm not real artistic.

Very nice. That gives me some ideas. Did you muse a threaded insert for the handle?

 

[Sam Fleisher]

Very nice. That gives me some ideas. Did you muse a threaded insert for the handle?

I used a 5/16" dowel screw I bought at the local home store. It's an experiment because this cane I didn't use any epoxy there and I'm not sure what the antler does as it ages. I figure I can put some epoxy on later if it loosens up.

Next one I'm going to try copper pipe instead of a fitting or just some ferrules from Amazon because the 1 inch rubber caps don't fit because the copper fitting is a little over 1 inch.

 

[Bob Hall]

I used a 5/16" dowel screw I bought at the local home store. It's an experiment because this cane I didn't use any epoxy there and I'm not sure what the antler does as it ages. I figure I can put some epoxy on later if it loosens up.

Next one I'm going to try copper pipe instead of a fitting or just some ferrules from Amazon because the 1 inch rubber caps don't fit because the copper fitting is a little over 1 inch.

If you look at walking stick tips there is a huge selection of slip on and threaded tips available for all kinds of surfaces. I use a cane and I also still hunt some so tips for all types of surfaces is a huge plus for me.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

Working on a walnut urn, the body has been threaded 3"-8 the next step is to make a lid out of a Celtic cross glue up. The second photo is the drying schedule.

 

[Odie]

Last evening, I roughed a couple bowls for seasoning, and finished up a small Birdseye Maple.

-o-

 

[Odie]

Oh, BTW.....there is a reminder on my headstock to always lock in the faceplate/chuck to the spindle by giving it a little flip when mounting.


About ten years ago, I had a bowl dismount from the lathe and hit the floor still spinning.....and, all I did was turn off the lathe! This is why that reminder persists today.....It is my constant reminder to always lock it in.

-o-

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

This is the other half of the osage orange crotch I posted previously.

 

[Alan Weinberg]

roughed this out today and now resting in a paper bag after a couple rounds in the microwave
Walnut

 

[Alan Weinberg]

This is the other half of the osage orange crotch I posted previously.

View attachment 61199View attachment 61200View attachment 61201

Kent—that is gorgeous. Almost fluoresces. Really nice work.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

Back to the walnut urn 1st picture threading a chuck to hold the lid for detail turning, 2nd picture turning the exterior of the lid.

Lid screwed on and lid unscrewed

 

[Brian Kopp]

I don’t know how I never heard of it before, but I just stumbled on some “bowls from boards” videos when one randomly popped up on my YouTube feed last week. So I watched a few, made a jig for my tool rest from scraps of hardwood and MDF,


and turned one from an old piece of table top I was repurposing.

It’s a pretty cool method.

 

[Paul May]

I don’t know how I never heard of it before, but I just stumbled on some “bowls from boards” videos when one randomly popped up on my YouTube feed last week. So I watched a few, made a jig for my tool rest from scraps of hardwood and MDF,



Google "Michael Mode" You will be amazed 🙂

 

[robo hippy]

I am trying to remember, which seems to be more difficult now days.... I can't remember any piece coming off the lathe, or unwinding, but I think that was more common with the older lathes, especially if you were turning in high speed range. I did have the parameters on my 3520A changed, and it seemed like they made the ramp down/off range slower. I think most modern lathes come with slower ramp down times as standard. This must be like the soft start on many lathes now days for those who don't check their speed before turning on the lathe.

robo hippy

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

I am trying to remember, which seems to be more difficult now days.... I can't remember any piece coming off the lathe, or unwinding, but I think that was more common with the older lathes, especially if you were turning in high speed range. I did have the parameters on my 3520A changed, and it seemed like they made the ramp down/off range slower. I think most modern lathes come with slower ramp down times as standard. This must be like the soft start on many lathes now days for those who don't check their speed before turning on the lathe.

robo hippy

The majority of the VFD's available have easily accessible parameters that commonly includes ramp up and down settings, minimum speed (lowest frequency setting) and maximum frequency (note the motor will operate at a constant torque up to the motors name plate frequency but if operated above that frequency the voltage out put remains constant and the torque curve starts dropping off. The VFD's that I have installed on my lathes I have set with ramp up and down settings that provide soft start and reasonable stop ramp that does not threaten to unscrew the chuck or face plate. The frequency settings on my lathes are set at 90 Hz on 60 Hz motors so I am able to leave the mechanical step down in the low range and still get high speed for small diameter pieces that do not require as much torque.

 

[Odie]

I am trying to remember, which seems to be more difficult now days.... I can't remember any piece coming off the lathe, or unwinding, but I think that was more common with the older lathes, especially if you were turning in high speed range. I did have the parameters on my 3520A changed, and it seemed like they made the ramp down/off range slower. I think most modern lathes come with slower ramp down times as standard. This must be like the soft start on many lathes now days for those who don't check their speed before turning on the lathe.

robo hippy

Yeah Robo......I don't remember the exact date I converted from changing belts to variable speed, but it must have been 10-15 years ago. Since I've come to habitually giving the mounted faceplate or chuck a little flip to lock it in, this problem has never happened again. It doesn't take much of a flip, but just enough to give it a little friction fit.....that's all it takes. If newer lathes have slower start-ups and shut-downs, that will probably take care of the issue for most turners who have newer lathes than mine.

-o-

 

[Odie]

Last night, I roughed several bowls for seasoning, and plan to continue adding to the pile again this evening.....

-o-
12 1/2" x 3" fiddleback maple:

14" x 3" maple burl:

The current pile of shavings:

 

[Alan Weinberg]

Last night, I roughed several bowls for seasoning, and plan to continue adding to the pile again this evening.....

-o-
12 1/2" x 3" fiddleback maple:
View attachment 61248
14" x 3" maple burl:
View attachment 61246
The current pile of shavings:
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@odie
How close to final shape do you first get? These don’t look “rough” to me. So you just later remount and bring round by taking off as little as possible or do you knock it down a lot more than that?

 

[Greg Wold]

Yeah Robo......I don't remember the exact date I converted from changing belts to variable speed, but it must have been 10-15 years ago. Since I've come to habitually giving the mounted faceplate or chuck a little flip to lock it in, this problem has never happened again. It doesn't take much of a flip, but just enough to give it a little friction fit.....that's all it takes. If newer lathes have slower start-ups and shut-downs, that will probably take care of the issue for most turners who have newer lathes than mine.

-o-

I've read about that "little flip" before, and am using it. The problem I have is, even with that the faceplates & chuck tend to further lock in while turning, to the point where I require a lever arm to unstick them. Should I oil the spindle's threads? What other options should I try, so I can take them off by hand?

Today with the chuck I'm nervously using my chuck key for the leverage--nervous because I don't want to ruin the chuck or the key. For the faceplates (which don't have nice flats for a wrench), I wrap some rubber drawer-bottom sheeting around them then use a toothed wrench. Thankfully the wrench has only left a couple marks on the faceplate, but over time that's not a good solution.

 

[Brian Gustin]

I've read about that "little flip" before, and am using it. The problem I have is, even with that the faceplates & chuck tend to further lock in while turning, to the point where I require a lever arm to unstick them. Should I oil the spindle's threads? What other options should I try, so I can take them off by hand?

Today with the chuck I'm nervously using my chuck key for the leverage--nervous because I don't want to ruin the chuck or the key. For the faceplates (which don't have nice flats for a wrench), I wrap some rubber drawer-bottom sheeting around them then use a toothed wrench. Thankfully the wrench has only left a couple marks on the faceplate, but over time that's not a good solution.

What I do is more of a "whack" of the hand - Have not needed a wrench of any sort ever since (other than the spindle spanner, since my lathe doesn't have a spindle lock) With the key chucks, I just chuck up a piece of scrap wood long enough to stick out 6 inches or so from one side, oriented so it points towards me, lock (or spanner hold) the spindle and a sharp whack with the side of my fist on the scrap wood invariably pops the chuck loose (and with tommy bar chuck, I just need one of the tommy bars in the chuck body) - You do NOT want to oil the spindle threads or chuck at all - you want them clean and DRY- Oil or any lubrication would allow them to torque down impossibly tight , and then you'd have a whale of a time getting them loose again. the sharp whack helps jar the chuck loose quite easily as opposed to trying to manually twist it off.

 

[Odie]

@odie
How close to final shape do you first get? These don’t look “rough” to me. So you just later remount and bring round by taking off as little as possible or do you knock it down a lot more than that?

Alan.....Most of my roughed bowls resemble the shape in the fiddleback maple photo, but the shape of the maple burl bowl was the result of removing material near the rim because it had a large bark inclusion that I wanted to eliminate. My roughed bowls are normally very thick, so the second turn usually needs quite a bit of stock removal to reveal the final version. I try my best NOT to reduce either the height or width over what is necessary to bring it to round.....but that leaves a lot of material that will still need to be removed for the final shape.....and, a great deal of creative possibilities are left up to the imagination! 🙂

For roughing bowls, there is a rule about making the thickness about 1/10th of the diameter......but, I've come to increase the thickness even further to maybe 15%, or so. This normally increases the seasoning time.....but, I've found the increase in time is an advantage in seasoning roughed bowls well.

The problem I have is, even with that the faceplates & chuck tend to further lock in while turning, to the point where I require a lever arm to unstick them.

Greg.....The act of turning, in itself, may or may not further seat the chuck or faceplate.....that is, unless aggressive use of tools in stock removal, or any "catches" are in the mix. I've found it's better to have the added insurance of "the flip", in order to guarantee a good "locked in" fit between spindle and chuck/faceplate.

-o-

.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

I've read about that "little flip" before, and am using it. The problem I have is, even with that the faceplates & chuck tend to further lock in while turning, to the point where I require a lever arm to unstick them. Should I oil the spindle's threads? What other options should I try, so I can take them off by hand?

Today with the chuck I'm nervously using my chuck key for the leverage--nervous because I don't want to ruin the chuck or the key. For the faceplates (which don't have nice flats for a wrench), I wrap some rubber drawer-bottom sheeting around them then use a toothed wrench. Thankfully the wrench has only left a couple marks on the faceplate, but over time that's not a good solution.

I've never tried it but I either read it somewhere or maybe I had an AA haa moment but what about one of those oil filter wrenchs that uses a belt?

Can't imagine they cost too much and lots of places probably carry them.

 

[Russell Nugent]

I've read about that "little flip" before, and am using it. The problem I have is, even with that the faceplates & chuck tend to further lock in while turning, to the point where I require a lever arm to unstick them. Should I oil the spindle's threads? What other options should I try, so I can take them off by hand?

Today with the chuck I'm nervously using my chuck key for the leverage--nervous because I don't want to ruin the chuck or the key. For the faceplates (which don't have nice flats for a wrench), I wrap some rubber drawer-bottom sheeting around them then use a toothed wrench. Thankfully the wrench has only left a couple marks on the faceplate, but over time that's not a good solution.

If you can take your chuck off by hand it was never on securely. On my super nova chucks I use a wreck on the insert to remove them. On my nova titan I use a strap wrench

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

I've read about that "little flip" before, and am using it. The problem I have is, even with that the faceplates & chuck tend to further lock in while turning, to the point where I require a lever arm to unstick them. Should I oil the spindle's threads? What other options should I try, so I can take them off by hand?

Today with the chuck I'm nervously using my chuck key for the leverage--nervous because I don't want to ruin the chuck or the key. For the faceplates (which don't have nice flats for a wrench), I wrap some rubber drawer-bottom sheeting around them then use a toothed wrench. Thankfully the wrench has only left a couple marks on the faceplate, but over time that's not a good solution.

This may not apply to you, but I have the SuperNova 2s, insert version. The insert has a set screw. I don't do the "snap" when attaching the chuck. Instead, I just snug it up and use the setscrew on the insert. The reason being, once I loosen the setscrew I can loosen the chuck by hand.

With my old, cheap Wen chuck, I use the t-bar handle to loosen the chuck like you are doing. I don't see any issues with it. The SuperNova 2s have a separate hole for a screwdriver or whatever else you want to use to loosen it.

 

[Dave Landers]

I've read about that "little flip" before, and am using it. The problem I have is, even with that the faceplates & chuck tend to further lock in while turning, to the point where I require a lever arm to unstick them. Should I oil the spindle's threads? What other options should I try, so I can take them off by hand?

Today with the chuck I'm nervously using my chuck key for the leverage--nervous because I don't want to ruin the chuck or the key. For the faceplates (which don't have nice flats for a wrench), I wrap some rubber drawer-bottom sheeting around them then use a toothed wrench. Thankfully the wrench has only left a couple marks on the faceplate, but over time that's not a good solution.

I use the chuck Allen key and give it a jolt - a sharp pull, sometimes I knock it with my hand. Not trying to unspin it, just get it loose. I do this with my Vicmarcs because the Allen fits solidly in the key hole. It shouldn't take much - if it's not working, experiment with less "drama" in the "flip".
I also have an old Nova chuck and I do the same thing (but not with the ball-end Allen it came with). The fit of the Allen in the hole is not as good (deep) on this chuck vs the Vics, and I suppose I do risk wearing out the thing. But I don't use it too often, so it'll probably outlast me anyway.
If that doesn't work, you can always just chuck a 1x2 or similar cross-wise in the jaws and use that as a lever.
For your faceplate, look for a spot on the outer edge or around the spindle and drill a hole so you can insert a rod to lever it off.

 

[Marc Banka]

I always use a snap when seating a chuck. That noise and sudden stop lets you know that both surfaces, chuck and spindle are clean and have mated properly. They will run true. A snap on an 8 pound chuck is actually quite a bit of torque, which is why removal can be difficult if you’re not tooled and trained for it.
This is an adjustable pin spanner wrench. It can grab the small hole in the adapter, or hook into the Allen or opening for the chuck key. If it’s really tight, smack the tool with your hand or even a mallet. It’s easy on the tools and is quite effective. Use only for loosening.

 

[Michael Anderson]

Working on the finish turning of an Osage Orange calabash. The blank had a crack that I decided to keep with the intention of adding pewa. Will be about 7.5”d and 3.25”h when finished. If interested, I wrote a tutorial of how I installed the pewa. Here is a link to the tutorial in the appropriate section of the forum.

 

[William Rogers]

I always use a snap when seating a chuck. That noise and sudden stop lets you know that both surfaces, chuck and spindle are clean and have mated properly. They will run true. A snap on an 8 pound chuck is actually quite a bit of torque, which is why removal can be difficult if you’re not tooled and trained for it.
This is an adjustable pin spanner wrench. It can grab the small hole in the adapter, or hook into the Allen or opening for the chuck key. If it’s really tight, smack the tool with your hand or even a mallet. It’s easy on the tools and is quite effective. Use only for loosening.
View attachment 61265

We differ in our methods of doing things. I never use a snap anymore. Doing so I have had chucks “stuck”. The reason I quit was advice from the late John Jordan doing a demo at our club. He strongly advised against snapping a chuck. He just did a snug using the key and commented you never need anymore torque to loosen than you did to install. I’ve been doing it that way for several years now and have had no problems or stuck chucks.

 

[Phil Hamel]

Got a few projects completed. Used Birch, ash and Maple.
Wig stand prototype:

Mallet from a cracked piece I tried for the wig stand:

Piece of Birch for St. Patrick's day: Pipe and nose made from pine. Don't have any red hair so not sure how I will finish it.

 

[Michael Anderson]

in addition to the calabash above, I’m also finish turning a Bradford Pear calabash. I skipped the sanding on the other one so I could turn this one. Of course, that means I get to sand two bowls in a row. Yay!



The Osage Orange calabash has a slight recurve, and I’m going to leave it unembellished. The Bradford Pear calabash is closed form, and I’m going to embellish it quite a bit. Here they are together:

 

[Alan Weinberg]

in addition to the calabash above, I’m also finish turning a Bradford Pear calabash. I skipped the sanding on the other one so I could turn this one. Of course, that means I get to sand two bowls in a row. Yay!

View attachment 61285

The Black Locust calabash has a slight recurve, and I’m going to leave it unembellished. The Bradfor Oear calabash is closed form, and I’m going to embellish it quite a bit. Here they are together:

View attachment 61286

gonna fume that locust bowl?

 

[Michael Anderson]

gonna fume that locust bowl?

Nah, I’m going to leave this one natural. Let it develop a nice patina. Though, it would be cool to fume one that had Ash (or similar) pewa that wouldn’t react to the ammonia. 🤔

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

Not exactly woodturning but it is turning. Another bowling bowl or two.

 

[Odie]

I always use a snap when seating a chuck. That noise and sudden stop lets you know that both surfaces, chuck and spindle are clean and have mated properly. They will run true. A snap on an 8 pound chuck is actually quite a bit of torque, which is why removal can be difficult if you’re not tooled and trained for it.
This is an adjustable pin spanner wrench. It can grab the small hole in the adapter, or hook into the Allen or opening for the chuck key. If it’s really tight, smack the tool with your hand or even a mallet. It’s easy on the tools and is quite effective. Use only for loosening.
View attachment 61265

Great idea Marc!

I already have one of these spanner wrenches, so the next time I get a stubborn chuck, I'll think of it! 🙂

-o-

 

[Pat Wisniewski]

13” x 4” piece of ribbon sapele on the lathe. First of three wedding gifts… too tired to begin turning tonight as I am just back from a trip and jet-lagged.

Just got back from the UK where we visited friends for two weeks. One evening I got away to attend the South Downs Woodturners meeting. I greatly appreciated the transportation assistance from Tony Trigg, who picked me up at the train station and showed me his shop before the meeting, and who generously drove me to a larger train station farther East, as the meeting ran late and I missed the close train!

 

[Alan Weinberg]

Not exactly woodturning but it is turning. Another bowling bowl or two.
View attachment 61290View attachment 61291

made out of what?