Stretch wrap and tape when you flip it!
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What’s on your lathe?
- Thread starter Rusty Nesmith
- Start date
A good friend uses strapping tape to wrap “challenging” pieces before reversing to hollow. Holds everything together!
Couple of CA black Walnut burl bowls were roughed last evening. Should have wetted the surface to show off the grain and colors in these two.....they are outstanding examples!
Both are over 35% MC.....very wet. It'll be a year or so before I can do the 2nd turn...
=o=
Both are over 35% MC.....very wet. It'll be a year or so before I can do the 2nd turn...
=o=
Odie….your bringing back old memories! I had a stupid attack and sold my ‘33’ flat head V8 about 10 years ago. Still miss itDid a couple bowl feet this evening.
Currently experimenting with some acrylic paint pens to do a permanent inventory number. (Thanks to @Ed Davidson for the idea!)
I've found that you really have to be careful with the buffing to prevent the process from ruining the numbers, but with some practice, it can be done.
The paint needs to dry for 24hrs before a sealing coat of DO is applied.
I also re-wired the dash and replaced the input voltage wire to the distributor of my 1928 Model A Ford Pickup truck today! I think this fixed my hard starting issues.....fingers crossed! It was getting dark, so couldn't test drive it today......soon!!!!!
=o=
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How does the Thuya sand for you? I find it clogs really bad. Both are beautiful!
Well I saw a picture yesterday of an enclosed rim ( I think that’s what it’s called) bowl and had to try my first one tonight.
I surprisingly kept the wall thickness consistent at less than 1/4”. It measures 9-1/4” tall x 14” at the widest point. I’ll sand it tomorrow, remove a few tool marks, and possibly remove the tenon. I used my Thompson and Jamieson 5/8 bowl gouges, negative rake, and the dreaded bottom bowl gouge…..and should have came here first to ask questions or watched a video, and started with a smaller size…. lesson learned. Criticism welcome!
I surprisingly kept the wall thickness consistent at less than 1/4”. It measures 9-1/4” tall x 14” at the widest point. I’ll sand it tomorrow, remove a few tool marks, and possibly remove the tenon. I used my Thompson and Jamieson 5/8 bowl gouges, negative rake, and the dreaded bottom bowl gouge…..and should have came here first to ask questions or watched a video, and started with a smaller size…. lesson learned. Criticism welcome!
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Dan, you might never see that super gem again, but the market for classic and antique cars is always bringing up new prospects for those who are interested. Us old geezers don't live forever, you know!Odie….your bringing back old memories! I had a stupid attack and sold my ‘33’ flat head V8 about 10 years ago. Still miss it
Even though I've put in a lot of effort with Orville, some of his past owners have put a lot of elbow grease into what he is now. I found an old Oregon registration behind the seat from the 1950's, when he used to belong to a woman, believe it or not! I wonder what her story is....or was......? Yeah, that's how it's been for me, too Gabriel.
I keep a rubber belt cleaner handy and use it often for woods that clog easily.
=o=
No criticism—just praise.
Yah. Looks good to me!
David, awesome looking bowl. Great proportion and shape. I am going to try some of these after finished cutting walnut stash. Would sell like hotcakes as far as I am concerned. What finish would you use? I currently have a ton of Ambrosia Maple waiting to be cut. Did you do anything to keep the bark on. First turned?
This one will be once turned and we’ll see how it looks when dry. My concern was the shape and proportion.
On the finish, I’m thinking walnut oil or danish and also considering wipe on poly, still thinking about that.
It was a little tough with the bowl gouge, had to go at about the 1:00 position and take it slow for the top curve and extended reach. Should have moved the headstock to the end of the lathe but I’m hardheaded
I love it! Nice form, beautiful wood, bark is great (I like the "fish" swimming around the side.
Well done!Oil will prob darken the wood some (maple?) but bring out the figure. If you have an offcut you could sand a section and test the oil first.
I've heard different names for a rim that is inward rather than straight or flared out: closed, inverted, others. I haven't heard "enclosed" yet but that seems as good as any!
Although sometimes a bit more challenging to turn, I'm partial to bowls and forms with some sort of closure at the rim, even if the rim is just turned in a bit - I like those forms far more than the more typical bowl shapes flared outwards inside and out. (easier to turn that way?)
This was the first NE bowl I ever did, maybe 20 years ago, from green elm, tiny flared foot, very slightly curved upper sides, oil finish:
This one is only about 5" across. I remember the inside was more challenging than the outside.
I try to experiment and make each shape quite different. Next time I think I'll try a shape more like yours!
JKJ
Yes maple, I like the look of walnut oil on maple. With the closed rim it will be harder to dry buff on the inside with my buffing wheel so I’ll do that by hand on the lathe. Turning the inside is harder than most bowls, had to stop and clear shavings often, used mostly the 60* gouges but also tried the 55*. If the rim was closed more I don’t think either gouge would have worked without hitting the other side of the rim.I love it! Nice form, beautiful wood, bark is great (I like the "fish" swimming around the side.
Oil will prob darken the wood some (maple?) but bring out the figure. If you have an offcut you could sand a section and test the oil first.
I've heard different names for a rim that is inward rather than straight or flared out: closed, inverted, others. I haven't heard "enclosed" yet but that seems as good as any!
Although sometimes a bit more challenging to turn, I'm partial to bowls and forms with some sort of closure at the rim, even if the rim is just turned in a bit - I like those forms far more than the more typical bowl shapes flared outwards inside and out. (easier to turn that way?)
This was the first NE bowl I ever did, maybe 20 years ago, from green elm, tiny flared foot, very slightly curved upper sides, oil finish:
View attachment 73918
This one is only about 5" across. I remember the inside was more challenging than the outside.
I try to experiment and make each shape quite different. Next time I think I'll try a shape more like yours!
JKJ
I thought about putting a 40-50* grind on an older gouge but was able to complete it with the 60*.
I like the look, was concerned about the shape since I had only seen one but I’m happy with it and plan on a few more to refine my technique.
It does look like a whale swimming on the front on the bowl
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@David Wyke when I do a bowl similar to that I start with a 40/40 gouge until it won't make the turn, which isn't too far after you start to turn. Then switch to a 60 degree gouge for the rest of it. Once I started it behind the lathe turning left handed then went to front of lathe and used right handed cut once the turn started. I think the best thing for one like yours would be try to move the headstock to end of the lathe.
I did move to the back of the lathe for a cut or two and thought a 40/40 would work better to start with. I agree moving it to the end of the lathe would have been better.
Have you seen the small buffing balls? Could mount one on a shaft to fit inside.
I have, just haven’t purchased one.
Ours spalt before it hits the ground.
For clearing shavings, has anyone tried one of these?
A son gave me this for Christmas. I knew it was powerful but just now I held it 12" from my wind speed meter - clocked at over 45 mph!
For those without an air compressor handy one of these might help with clearing chips.
I use it to blow dust from screens and circuit boards and dirt from various things around the farm.
JKJ