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What’s on your lathe?

can figure out how to mount it so I can turn a round, symmetrical bottom without needing to grind off a nub and hand sand
Looking great! That crotch pattern is cool in the bottom of the bowl.

One thing you can do (if you haven’t yet applied finish to the interior) is make a friction chuck that matches the profile of the bottom interior. Use some sort of pad (leather, foam, etc…) while turning away the majority of the bottom. When you’re close to finished (small cone stage) take out the pad and use a few dabs of hot glue to hold the bowl in place and carefully turn away the cone as desired (and my preference would be to add a penny sized dimple). Little bit of alcohol or acetone will take care of the remaining hot glue residue.
 
Not sure how to turn off the bottom. Need advice. A real long jam chuck?
Very cool, Alan. Thats a big one! A more secure method than length would be to jam the bowl against a big plywood disc with foam attached to the face. Turn away the bottom as much as possible (or as much as you’re willing), and then cut, sand, etc…
 
Biggest I’ve turned yet and doubt I’ll go bigger. 9 inch height and 16 1/2 inch diameter. Pine with koa pewa. Not sure how to turn off the bottom. Need advice. A real long jam chuck?View attachment 70368View attachment 70369
Alan, I made this for second turned bowls and have one very similar to use as a jam chuck, however i also use this one as a jam chuck to remove the tenon. Glen Lucas has a video on how to make one.
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Alan, I made this for second turned bowls and have one very similar to use as a jam chuck, however i also use this one as a jam chuck to remove the tenon. Glen Lucas has a video on how to make one.
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Thanks to you and Michael. I just cut a piece of plywood on the bandsaw, screw chucked it on, put a couple towels over it and put the piece on. Worked great but as I removed wood from the bottom, the crack continued and I had to place 6 more pewa! Now more sanding and oil and then I can move on to something more artistic than a damn big cracked bowl.

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Thanks to you and Michael. I just cut a piece of plywood on the bandsaw, screw chucked it on, put a couple towels over it and put the piece on. Worked great but as I removed wood from the bottom, the crack continued and I had to place 6 more pewa! Now more sanding and oil and then I can move on to something more artistic than a damn big cracked bowl.

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I can’t believe that didn’t come apart. It’s Incredible that you were able to keep it together.

I would have been afraid to spin that one up; especially after taking 1/2 a bowl to the faceplate a few weeks ago

Bob
 
I can’t believe that didn’t come apart. It’s Incredible that you were able to keep it together.
Probably beginner’s luck. Or dumb luck. I placed 6 spaced pewa and then turned the outside, working in 2 inch increments, as when I turned the exterior round, I would lose the pewa in that area. Then I replaced the pewa before turning the interior.
 
I had an ash in the front yard that was leaning towards the house. My daughter-in-law wanted to cut down a tree and this ash had been on my list for a couple of years.

As is my tradition, I turned a bowl from the tree ASAP. I wanted to make it thin and see how it warps.

I haven't done ebonizing, paint, etc. But this ash will give me lies of opportunities for that.

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I had an ash in the front yard that was leaning towards the house. My daughter-in-law wanted to cut down a tree and this ash had been on my list for a couple of years.

As is my tradition, I turned a bowl from the tree ASAP. I wanted to make it thin and see how it warps.

I haven't done ebonizing, paint, etc. But this ash will give me lies of opportunities for that.

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Beautiful bowl. I love the color and grain structure.

Bob
 
Here’s that last one I posted, now completed

Been difficult finding time in the shop with holidays and taking my 95 yr old neighbor to the hospital to visit his soon-to-be 93 yr old bride.

Neighbor I got the wood from calls it Sour Gum, though I always knew it as Black Gum or Tupelo, or Nyssa sylvatica.
 

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What are you using to pierce with? Looking good!
I am using the Dremel with a spiral cutter for wood and ceramic tile😁, and drilling a clearance hole for entry. I bought some carving bits for the Dremel but I think the HF is a little thick to use them. I plan to look at my wood supply store and see what is available. Just going for it and hoping for the best😁
 
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A small ash (I think it was ash, it's been 20 years since I had any locust) bark edge bowl. 4.5" at the top, 1.5" at the bottom, 3" tall at the upper part of the rim. Even the sap and heart colors gave me 1/3 and 2/3 coverage. 3 light coats of Tried & True Danish oil, followed by one coat of T&T Original (oil and wax).

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Made this glass insulator display rack for my brother. Other picture is the original pattern for the mounts. I cut the threads on my metal lathe (4 tpi). Ground a bit to match the thread shape. Ended up using hard maple for the threaded mount, hickory tore out too much. I had to go slow and only advance the cutter .005" per cut or had trouble with tear out. I ended up using furniture paste wax for cutting lube. Question for anyone who's done something like this before - would making my cutter negative rake work better? I did the wood turning on my wood lathe.
 

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Made this glass insulator display rack for my brother. Other picture is the original pattern for the mounts. I cut the threads on my metal lathe (4 tpi). Ground a bit to match the thread shape. Ended up using hard maple for the threaded mount, hickory tore out too much. I had to go slow and only advance the cutter .005" per cut or had trouble with tear out. I ended up using furniture paste wax for cutting lube. Question for anyone who's done something like this before - would making my cutter negative rake work better? I did the wood turning on my wood lathe.
Any time I've cut threads into wood (not on the lathe), I've seen the best results after saturating the intended piece in oil overnight. That usually produces beautifully crisp threads where dry stock crumbles very easy. Good thinking on the paste wax but think more penetration.
 
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