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Thanks Gabriel! Great question. I’m not filling the pores in on this one. I’m finishing with oil/varnish, so I’m not too concerned. If it was a lacquer finish I’d definitely fill via the dust/CA method.
Beautiful form Michael. I have used paste wood grain filler from McFeelys with good success. You can tint it if desired. Brush it on, let it set and then wipe the excess off. Let dry and sand. Does a good job and is much quicker than sawdust and ca. It's just meant for porous grain not actual holes.
Beautiful form Michael. I have used paste wood grain filler from McFeelys with good success. You can tint it if desired. Brush it on, let it set and then wipe the excess off. Let dry and sand. Does a good job and is much quicker than sawdust and ca. It's just meant for porous grain not actual holes.
This will be so something that looks like southwest pottery. 13” x something. Base and snout will be will be dyed black with basket illusion bands. I might reshape the snout. I just don’t know. Going to let it sit for a week while I’m gone and see what I think when I get back. Approximately 3/8” thick.
Nice haul David!
I had a piece of elm I believe. All done except for drilling a few holes and sanding! Dam drill caught and cork screwed right into the other side splitting it in half!
Last week I had a cherry platter come flying out of the Cole jaws and shoot across the shop. It made enough of a racket for my wife to come down to see if I still had all my digits.😆
Nice haul David!
I had a piece of elm I believe. All done except for drilling a few holes and sanding! Dam drill caught and cork screwed right into the other side splitting it in half! View attachment 69887
Modified the design and got the piece made. Elm I believe. Lady wants to stuff it with blinking lights.
One more small one to go and this set of projects is complete. Unless I make some for my own insulators.
Sycamore. I hate doing the inside of those closed rim forms, particularly when they are deepish. Moved to the basement at least, so I am out of the cold!
Started out 19 inch but down to around 18 now. Shallow dog dish?
Ash
**Edit**
After some "design changes" it's now 16 inch diameter. I'm happier with the look now then what the top had been (no pic). Wet sanded with Danish oil to 400.
You'll notice that the profile of the wall doesn't match from the outside to the inside. It doesn't match on the 18 century platter I kind of studied before I started this one so I didn't get too hung up about that. The two pics with finish are it's final form.
Modified the design and got the piece made. Elm I believe. Lady wants to stuff it with blinking lights.
One more small one to go and this set of projects is complete. Unless I make some for my own insulators. View attachment 69933
Been a busy week, hickory bowl on Monday. Twice turned, tried and true original one coat at the moment. Hickory log sat for a year outside in the weather, then a year in my crawlspace. Great spalting and interesting grain.
On Tuesday, Wednesday turned some maple blanks had drying for the past year and a half that I got from a neighbour, thought it would make a good Xmas gift. Not sure about what finish to use. Like the lighter color, any suggestion appreciated.
Hackberry on Thursday and today. Lots of spalting on this log that again sat for one year outside uncovered. Twice turned. Just got the lathe extension for Xmas gift from my wife. Can't wait to turn some big walnut nuggets. Sorry for the photo quality. Been a busy week, lots of sanding but I think after 4 years, I am getting it dialled in.
Sissu is next green turning. You might be able to see the circle traced... It's gunna be epic. Crotch was only able 20" across. Next one is closer to 30"
The idea has potential, but I don’t think you’re there yet. Perhaps the piece would be improved by painting the pedestal black or making a separate pedestal from a dark wood and then attaching it?
The shape of the hollow form is excellent! It’s my favorite of the ones you’ve posted so far.
One core down and 6 more to go, 16” and 13”! The Korpro cutter works almost to efficient sometimes causing me to have to stop and clean shavings out no matter how often I pull the cutter out. So I replaced my regular air nozzle with a fine point air nozzle with a hole about the size of a #2 pencil lead. Now every time I pull the cutter out to evacuate shavings I blast it with the compressed air and no longer have to stop to remove shavings. It works 10 times better than a regular nozzle.
One core down and 6 more to go, 16” and 13”! The Korpro cutter works almost to efficient sometimes causing me to have to stop and clean shavings out no matter how often I pull the cutter out. So I replaced my regular air nozzle with a fine point air nozzle with a hole about the size of a #2 pencil lead. Now every time I pull the cutter out to evacuate shavings I blast it with the compressed air and no longer have to stop to remove shavings. It works 10 times better than a regular nozzle.
Norm, I’ll get a picture tomorrow. I’ve used a regular air nozzle in the past but the one with the small hole is so much better.
I use a tenon to hold the min bowl, when I can remember I use a mortise on the front so it’s easier to reverse the core and put a small tenon on the back of it.
Rough turned another butternut covered (tobe) end grain bowl. The center of the butternut is very soft and almost impossible to cut tearout free so I put some PC Petrifier to soak in during the drying process.
I don’t think you need the pedestal, Alan. Looks like it belongs on a different piece IMO. For future pieces, I’d use that extra material to elongate the piece a bit. Not much; maybe half inch to an inch. The longer shape would slow down the speed of the curve near the bottom and help elevate the piece off the table a bit, which is what I suspect was the goal of the pedestal.
As it stands now, my recommendation is to remove the pedestal completely and let the hollow form stand on its own. The hollow form is a lovely shape and I really like your coin application!
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