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What’s on your lathe?

I obtained some curly maple that was 18 to 22% MC. These 3 pieces are going to be rolling pins. But rather than leaving them in the square, I rough turn them to decrease the drying time. In a few weeks, they will be dry enough to put them in my small kiln to bring them to about 10 to 12% and ready for final turning. Can’t wait to see them after oiling and buffing! Oh, and there’s a couple of ambrosia beetle holes to fill.IMG_2069.jpeg
 
I know this isn’t what Randy meant when he started this thread 4,055 post ago, but I couldn’t resist posting what is “on” my lathe. I have a neighbor I just got to know who has an Alaska mill. He’s had a red oak board on his truck for a few weeks that he milled. I’d never met him before, but walking past his house a week ago I finally caught him outside and said “that’s a beautiful plank you’ve got there.” (How’s that for an opening line?). He answered “You want it?” I leapt at it and went to pick it up yesterday. He also gave me a piece of another board of white oak 30” long by 24” wide by 4” thick. The red oak was 14’ long by 20” wide by 3 1/4” thick. I’ve cut it into rough blanks, cut a few into discs, and just finished coating it all. The red oak has some shallow surface checks, so I don’t have high hopes that it will all be useful, but even if I get 50% usable, I’ll be thrilled. IMG_6956.jpeg
And here’s one platter, 14” in diameter, that I turned green this morning, just because I couldn’t resist. I’m confident it will warp, and likely crack, but as I said, I couldn’t resist. IMG_6957.jpeg
 
I know this isn’t what Randy meant when he started this thread 4,055 post ago, but I couldn’t resist posting what is “on” my lathe. I have a neighbor I just got to know who has an Alaska mill. He’s had a red oak board on his truck for a few weeks that he milled. I’d never met him before, but walking past his house a week ago I finally caught him outside and said “that’s a beautiful plank you’ve got there.” (How’s that for an opening line?). He answered “You want it?” I leapt at it and went to pick it up yesterday. He also gave me a piece of another board of white oak 30” long by 24” wide by 4” thick. The red oak was 14’ long by 20” wide by 3 1/4” thick. I’ve cut it into rough blanks, cut a few into discs, and just finished coating it all. The red oak has some shallow surface checks, so I don’t have high hopes that it will all be useful, but even if I get 50% usable, I’ll be thrilled. View attachment 69389
And here’s one platter, 14” in diameter, that I turned green this morning, just because I couldn’t resist. I’m confident it will warp, and likely crack, but as I said, I couldn’t resist. View attachment 69390
The piece should be OK if you turned it to a uniform wall thickness and control the initial drying, however from the looks of that form it probably isn't uniform.
 
from the looks of that form it probably isn't uniform.
No, Don, you’re correct. It’s thicker in the rim than towards the center. I won’t be upset. I’m more curious to see if any of the surface checks I turned away reappear.
PS- I just noticed a coincidence - we joined the forum within a day of each other!
 
Two more insulator display holders.
The first one looked like an angel to me so I turned it as such. Will have them add wings and a hallow.
Second one is apple with bark attached.
View attachment 69393
View attachment 69394

Thanks for the ideas. I have a couple that I picked up hunting that could use a base. Great reminders of fun times with friends.

Bob
 
Working on one of my three “ bring them in the booth bowls”. It is walnut, 16-1/2” and should end up between 6-1/2 to 6-3/4” tall. Will turn the inside this afternoon. I have another walnut to second turn that is a little larger and an ambrosia maple that is 18” before the second turn. Probably go for 3/8” thickness on this one instead of 1/4”. Looks like the grain pattern on the outside bottom will be on the inside bottom.
I had 3 this size at my last show and someone bought two of them and the gallery wanted the other one. I try to keep 2-3 large bowls because it brings people in, then they see the price and then buy a smaller bowl😁!

View attachment 67830

View attachment 67829
I can only dream of turning something like this. A hardwood bowl over 6" dia.! We have 10' diameter cedar, spruce, and hemlock old-growth forests, but that is not the same as a +16" bowl out of a nice hardwood. Enjoy!
 
Cherry end grain lidded bowl or some kind of container.
The bowl was turned green in October from the full round ( the pith is in the base), the walls were about 5/16" thick and the 2" tenon on the bottom was drilled out with a 1" multi spur bit to relieve the stress in the end grain. The green turned piece was weighed and put in a brown paper bag then when the weight change lessened it was removed from the bag then finish turned when the weight stopped decreasing. The finish dimensions are about 8" high with the lid, about 4" diameter at the max and at the lid and the wall is about 1/8" thick. The blank for the lid is segmented with 4 segments per layer. the layers were glued up with each joint being side grain to end grain and the result was the outside turning is all shearing cuts. The layers were glued with each layer rotated 45 degrees to the one below.IMG_1136.jpgIMG_1137.jpg
 
Lovely vessel Don. I had never thought of drilling out the base to relieve the stress! Great tip! Thanks,.
I only partially drilled it out that is only to the depth of the tenon and that has worked on most of the endgrain pieces that I have tried it on. The other factor that allows the pith to be included is the smaller base and of course slow controlled drying.
 
Wish me luck! Sugarberry.

View attachment 69570

The shape here is after roughing and getting down below the bark layer.

View attachment 69571

You can't see it, but I almost cut through that bark inclusion on the bottom right. It's no more than 1/16" there. I don't have the setup for pewas. Time for some Weinberg coins!
I’ll mail them but you need a template! Good luck. Cool form.
 
Wish me luck! Sugarberry.

View attachment 69570

The shape here is after roughing and getting down below the bark layer.

View attachment 69571

You can't see it, but I almost cut through that bark inclusion on the bottom right. It's no more than 1/16" there. I don't have the setup for pewas. Time for some Weinberg coins!

Very cool. Can’t wait to see what it looks like finished.

Bob
 
Wish me luck! Sugarberry.

View attachment 69570

The shape here is after roughing and getting down below the bark layer.

View attachment 69571

You can't see it, but I almost cut through that bark inclusion on the bottom right. It's no more than 1/16" there. I don't have the setup for pewas. Time for some Weinberg coins!
Wrap the outside with saran wrap to hold it together.
 
A recent thread where the problem of finishes not completely curing or the solvents never completely drying in closed in vessels. That is a problem I have experienced many times and I had an idea that may fix that problem.
The experiment is to mount a fan to blow air into the vessel: The key ingredient that I needed is a small fan and being a pack rat I had saved the cooling fans from 3 of my past failed tower computers. The next things are all made of wood as you can see by the pictures. The 12VDC battery will be replaced an old AC adapter that puts out 12VDC at 1.66amps and the fan is rated at 12VDC 0.41 amp.
The nozzle was made on the lathe and the remaining parts on various other machines including my Bridgeport mill.
IMG_1139.jpgIMG_1140.jpgIMG_1145.jpg
 
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