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Live center alternative

Jamie Straw

Jamie Straw

Joined
May 28, 2015
Messages
1,616
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221
Location
Bainbridge Island, WA
At the studio, we've been using the Nova live centers (multiple points included) for most turning, even though the Powermatics come with their own centers. After 7 years, and some beginner mis-use, we have at least one that needs replacing. What live center kits can you recommend in the $100 range?
Screenshot 2025-01-10 063434.png
 
I love my Oneway with the 3/4x10 threads, as it is easy to make custom centers for specific applications. I've made them with points, flats, and inverted points for various projects over the years. It does require buying a 3/4x10 tap. Robust also makes one with that same thread pattern - have their drive center in that configuration and have customized it over the years too.
 
I haven't looked at the pricing for live centers. I'm still using the Nova and the Powermatic copy of the Oneway. Both are 20 years or older and get used a lot for all sizes of turnings. I've looked at the Pennstateind. live centers as well as the Grizzly. Don't know how good they are.
 
I'd like a version of this smaller reverse cone(?) for my Oneway live center. It comes with a similar fitting, but it is much larger and without the pinpoint center interior. I guess I could make a wood insert for the Oneway of a similar shape.
1000008973.jpg
 
I have both the Powermatic and Oneway which are identical. Like mentioned already I've made various jigs using the 3/4-10 thread. I also have a threaded adapter for my chuck which comes in handy for centering my segmented work.
 
I use the Robust live and drive threaded centers and love ‘em, but in a teaching environment I think you want the same accessories so students can do the same setup. I see that Nova kit on amz for $97.
 
I'm building up the tooling for my first lathe shop and a quality live center is on my list of buys. I was looking at the Nova because of the options it offers, but start setting this thread in thinking the Oneway like design might be a better option. Yes it's 20-30% more than the Nova. Having a thread already on the body, vs the Nova having a screw you insert might just be the deciding factor.

Gregory
 
Richard Coers said:
What you get with the high end live centers is two bearings. Not the case with many cheap ones.
Click to expand...
Yes, this is true. The most accurate *revolving centres are the three (or four) bearing models used on engine ( metalwork) lathes.
Note the needle roller bearing in the tail in this diagram. These are of course very much more expensive and not needed for wood turning.
I just mention it out of interest.

IMG_3094.png


* Old machinists would never normally use the term “Live” centre to describe a Revolving or Rotating Centre. Back in the day when most metal turning was done between centres they only had plain centres. These were just solid steel for both the head stock and tail stock. The one in the tail stock was called a “Dead” centre because it didn’t move. The one in the head stock was called a “Live” centre because it moved with the work piece. Any old diagrams of lathes will be annotated to confirm this. Times change, maybe new machinists call Revolving centres Live centres? but some suppliers of quality equipment still call them revolving centres.

 
I have 2 Novas, 2 Oneways, 2Powermatics and 1 Robust. They run in order of coolness (in other words which one in heavy use runs the coolest) Nova #1, Robust #2, and Powermatic #3, Oneway #3. A bunch of others that were only used for hands on when 10 or more lathes were being used. Now none of this means that any of the above are bad as I have had them all for years and they all still work as they were designed to do. I didn't mention bearings because for most of those I don't know how many bearings they have. But I do know the Nova has 3 bearings.
 
Steve Tiedman said:
I'd like a version of this smaller reverse cone(?) for my Oneway live center. It comes with a similar fitting, but it is much larger and without the pinpoint center interior. I guess I could make a wood insert for the Oneway of a similar shape.
View attachment 70932
Click to expand...

I made a smaller cone for my OneWay centre out of Aluminium. You could easily use wood though? I’ll try and find a picture.
 
Bill Blasic said:
I have 2 Novas, 2 Oneways, 2Powermatics and 1 Robust. They run in order of coolness (in other words which one in heavy use runs the coolest) Nova #1, Robust #2, and Powermatic #3, Oneway #3. A bunch of others that were only used for hands on when 10 or more lathes were being used. Now none of this means that any of the above are bad as I have had them all for years and they all still work as they were designed to do. I didn't mention bearings because for most of those I don't know how many bearings they have. But I do know the Nova has 3 bearings.
Click to expand...
Having used them all, for a period of time it looks, which would suggest a new turner get? They all seem to have a lot of flexibility, just that the Nova isn't threaded directly. Is this the case?

Long term I can see the utility of having both the Nova and one of the others, but could I get good performance with just the Nova to start? Tooling dollars are tight starting out, but getting quality tooling should help learning.

Gregory
 
Here it is with some other bits. The smaller Aluminium cone I made is 1 3/4” across inside. The three attachments on the right are all made from plastic (they’re threaded underneath) I bought a metalwork tap the same thread as the nose on the centre so it’s quite easy to make bits and pieces. Any decent hardwood should do the job.

IMG_3099.jpeg
 
A few years back I went on a factory tour at Axminster Tools. They laid out a “bargain table” for us. One of the bits I bought was a Pen centre. This is just a revolving centre with a hole in it. I bored and reamed the hole out to 10mm and made some of my own inserts for it. It has become one of my favourite tools. The centre cost me £5 plus some new bearings. The original bearings were ok, just a little noisy.

Edit: I also had to drill and tap the head for some set screws.
 
Yes, that! You won't be exporting those to the States, will you? ($$$)
1000008976.jpg

I may try making a cone shaped insert from wood for the Oneway fitting before buying a tap to make a similar threaded fitting from wood. But thanks for the photo, it's helpful.
 
Gregory Hickman said:
Having used them all, for a period of time it looks, which would suggest a new turner get? They all seem to have a lot of flexibility, just that the Nova isn't threaded directly. Is this the case?

Long term I can see the utility of having both the Nova and one of the others, but could I get good performance with just the Nova to start? Tooling dollars are tight starting out, but getting quality tooling should help learning.

Gregory
Click to expand...
One major benefit about the longer live centers that accommodate more bearings - they allow the tailstock to be further away from the work, without extending the TS quill further. This gives more room to get the banjo/tool rest into that space. I have not found the extra bearings to be of benefit in terms of load - I have a 60 deg cone style with single bearing that I’ve had for a dozen years and did a lot of unbalanced turning with it, and the bearing is fine. That’s on a 16” swing lathe. The much heavier pieces one can get on a larger lather is a different story.
 
Bill Alston said:
Sorry Steve, I’m not the world’s most competent machinist and once you add shipping etc!
Click to expand...
I didn't think so... But nice job on yours.

May I send your photo to Oneway, see if they'll add something similar to their line?
 
Thanks for all these suggestions and reports. I, too, like the Oneway style, and @Josh Mandell 's mention of the Axminster has put it on my personal consideration list (just received their matched ring-center set and it is exquisite), though the tommy-bar approach seems cumbersome. The threads on a Oneway-style center are bound to get buggered within months. Despite the edict "We don't turn metal here" slips happen. Most just scratch the Nova body, but that wouldn't be good on threads. We may just stick with the Nova, which have lasted a long time and at the time cost $55.

Wonder why Axminster went with tommy bar instead of knock-out bar?
 
Steve Tiedman said:
I may try making a cone shaped insert from wood for the Oneway fitting before buying a tap to make a similar threaded fitting from wood. But thanks for the photo, it's helpful.
Click to expand...
Another option for your wood version ... 3/4x10 tpi nuts are available at the big box stores and probably most hardware stores. Drill a hole in a block of wood and pressure fit (hammer ;)) the nut in and/or epoxy it in. Mount your Oneway in the head stock - drop a nail in the hole so it doesn't revolve and tape it down so it won't fly out. Turn your wood block to whatever shape you want. The nuts are cheaper than a tap.
 
Jamie Straw said:
At the studio, we've been using the Nova live centers (multiple points included) for most turning, even though the Powermatics come with their own centers. After 7 years, and some beginner mis-use, we have at least one that needs replacing. What live center kits can you recommend in the $100 range?
View attachment 70891
Click to expand...

My opinion... I like the Nova live center so much for the flexibility that I personally would just get another one. And keep it away from the misusers (I actually already have two already.). I make lots of special attachments as needed for special purposes, each with a short 2MT that fits into the main body.

I have several genuine Oneway centers and some clones but I reach for the Nova first.

live_center_MT2_IMG_7914.jpg

BTW, the Oneway and clone live centers also have a small MT socket, although not a #2. (#0MT?) Just knock the point out and turn a wooden piece to fit.

live_center_MT0_C_IMG_7913.jpg

Of course, by drilling and tapping things can be threaded onto the Oneway (and clones), but I suspect everyone knows that.

live_center_threaded_CROPPED_IMG_7917.jpg

If I need to turn any special shape on a wooden or plastic attachment I make to fit a Oneway (or clone) I put a short piece of soft iron wire through the hole on the side and mount it in the headstock like a drive center.

FWIW, I bought the small Sorby live center kit years ago and it was terrible. I intended to throw it in the trash but forgot.

JKJ
 
“If I need to turn any special shape on a wooden or plastic attachment I make to fit a Oneway (or clone) I put a short piece of soft iron wire through the hole on the side and mount it in the headstock like a drive center.”

I do exactly the same thing John! 😊
 
Bill Alston said:
“If I need to turn any special shape on a wooden or plastic attachment I make to fit a Oneway (or clone) I put a short piece of soft iron wire through the hole on the side and mount it in the headstock like a drive center.”

I do exactly the same thing John! 😊
Click to expand...
Me too, except I usually use a roofing nail and a bit of masking tape. See message #25 above.
 
Brilliant thoughts all around, thanks everyone! @Tom Gall I never thought of just getting a nut and building a fitting around it... off to the hardware store tomorrow.
 
Mark Jundanian said:
Before you glue a 3/4 x 10 nut into your fitting, be sure to test fit onto the live center. I bought a bag of nuts from a big box store and was surprised that a few would not thread.
Click to expand...
I'll bring the live center shopping with me.
 
The latest version of the Nova looks pretty good. Looking on the website I found out the nose taper for the inserts is also 2MT which is clever.
My OneWay has a small taper in the nose but I’ve no idea what it is, is there a 0MT?

Edit: There is indeed.

IMG_3112.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Gregory Hickman said:
Having used them all, for a period of time it looks, which would suggest a new turner get? They all seem to have a lot of flexibility, just that the Nova isn't threaded directly. Is this the case?

Long term I can see the utility of having both the Nova and one of the others, but could I get good performance with just the Nova to start? Tooling dollars are tight starting out, but getting quality tooling should help learning.

Gregory
Click to expand...
Greg, you won't go wrong with the Nova, but I won't tell you that I use it the most. Like my chucks I choose what I need at the time or what I grab out of the drawer they reside in. The Nova was (and probably is) less expensive. If I didn't have two sets knowing what I know if I needed one the Nova would be the first I would buy. Having one with the 3/4" X 10 thread would be helpful if you planned to manufacture things to screw onto and I have the means just don't have the need.
 
Thanks for posting this morse taper chart, Bill. I've saved it for future reference.
 
The OneWay was expensive over here when I got mine. I got it though mainly because of the large reversible cone. I must admit though I’ve not used it much. The threaded nose is useful though and other manufacturers including Axminster have adopted the concept. Once again, much depends on the type of projects you turn. I’m not sure if one single style of revolving centre would cover all my needs but it might some turners. 😉
 
Bill Alston said:
The latest version of the Nova looks pretty good. Looking on the website I found out the nose taper for the inserts is also 2MT which is clever.
My OneWay has a small taper in the nose but I’ve no idea what it is, is there a 0MT?
Click to expand...

If you missed it, I described using these short tapers with the Nova center in this message above:
John K Jordan

Post in thread 'Live center alternative'

Jamie Straw said:
At the studio, we've been using the Nova live centers (multiple points included) for most turning, even though the Powermatics come with their own centers. After 7 years, and some beginner mis-use, we have at least one that needs replacing. What live center kits can you recommend in the $100 range?
View attachment 70891
Click to expand...

My opinion... I like the Nova live center so much for the flexibility that I personally would just get another one. And keep it away from the misusers (I actually already have two already.). I make lots of special attachments as needed for special purposes, each with a...
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Also, if interested, my document on turning thin spindles (posted here in Tutorials/Tips) has complete instructions on how to easily turn short 2MTs on wood, in Appendix 1 starting on page 20:
John K Jordan

Thread 'Turning Thin Spindles'

This document shows the tools and methods I use to hold, shape, and successfully finish a thin spindle. I wrote this update for a recent club demo.

As spindles get long and thin, there are challenges to turn them successfully. My demos use “magic” wands to show the techniques but they apply to many types of thin spindles. I always take some long examples, a couple of tapered shafts that go from about 1/2” diameter down to 1/16” diameter in more than 24” - one I turned from a piece of shelving pine board from Home Depot.

Some things covered here are about the wood itself and how to...
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Note there is usually NO need to turn a long wood MT for almost all work on the lathe - the short taper is a lot easier to make and holds well in the lathe headstock (with tailstock support) and for any use in the Nova center.

JKJ
 
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