Yes, true, I still have one with the felt still on it, I turned it before 1967, probably 65 or 66.
Teak wood bowl 11.5 inches.
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What’s on your lathe?
- Thread starter Rusty Nesmith
- Start date
Teak wood bowl 11.5 inches.
I'm not upset and find the advice thoughtful! I will try a foot on the next one. I am new to the lathe not wood working.
Yeah, I still have some moth eaten green felt somewhere waiting for another use...😉
Stickers were the other quick way of dealing with the screw holes.
Oh how I loved the chucks when they became available!
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Turning some green walnut. The grain on this one reminds me of the Great Red Spot and swirling clouds on the planet Jupiter. Might need some epoxy on this one when it dries, there’s a small bark inclusion to the right of the “red spot”.
Kevin that is a beautiful piece of walnut.
For bark inclusions and small voids, the coffee ground routine works very nicely, the stuff looks so much like bark and it is solid, it is wood.
Just use barely moist coffee ground and pack that in the opening, then just use thin CA and saturate it.
I did fill the spot on this platter and it looks just fine.
Leo a couple of guys at our club have been doing that and it does look good. Nice platter.
When you say “Moist” do you mean water or CA?
Here is a Catalpa bowl I'm working on. I coated several with Anchorseal when I roughed them out and they didn't warp very much at all drying. I don't know if it is the nature of the wood or if the Anchorseal has anything to do with it. This bowl is about 18" now, the wood is light and some of the grain sands out easily. So I thought I'd try using Danish oil before sanding might help (maybe sanding sealer would be a better choice?). Latter today I'll see if it helps when I sand it.
James, Catalpa is a wood that does dry without splitting or distorting,I have large chunks sitting that have never had anything on them, just air dry in my shop at that time and now sitting in the storage shed.
Watch putting the oil on it, it likes to suck it up and get real dark.
Water, as if totally dried it does not pack very well and likes to float up when you add the CA.
Rusty. the idea came to me when I found a couple tile cutouts for the toilet openings, at my son's new build place, the tile setter did a real nice round cutout, so I got then the large Elm platter and turned it so the tile did fit in, then gave it to my son, they did like it and have had it often on the large island they have.
Thanks Leo! I’ve got a rough turned bowl with a void that I think will benefit from this treatment. I’ll give it a try.
What a beautiful piece of cherry!!! Isn't it amazing what shows up in a piece of wood.....
I truly believe that has promise of greatness!
Beautiful piece. I turn quite a bit of cherry.
Also working on a Box Elder Burl bowl. Half of it will be live edge, so the wall on one side will be thicker than on the live side.
What a gorgeous piece of wood!
Currently working on Cedar Elm bowl. At least that is common name here in North Central Texas. Looking for ideas on how to handle the torn end grain, I’ve quickly sanded with 80 grit, sealed with sanding sealer, and added saw dust to fill the holes. Next step is to finish sanding the inside.
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Small piece of a Cherry burl. Cherry must be favored at the moment. This is only my second non-spindle wood turning. Will be interesting to see where the wood takes me.
I do a finish cut. I will sharpen my gouge and take a light cut from the Chuck to the rim. Sometimes two light cuts. That normally gets rid of the tear out for me. My starting grit for sanding is 125.
Figured Claro Walnut from California:
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Nothing fancy here. Had to do something with it before it rotted or split. 15" Cherry Spittoon
These two pieces of black walnut came from the same dead tree some 15 years ago. And ere less than 8 inches apart.
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Tried a simple project with leftover scraps. Fridge magnet for the wife.
I will be adding epoxy to the blown out knot. Likely a copper color to offset the blue. Thoughts?
Gorgeous piece of wood, I think it will look nice.
I've been playing around with turquoise lately. I think I would fill close to the top of each void with epoxy as a filler, let dry, carve out as needed to leave about 1/8 inch void to the top and then fill with crushed turquoise. I have not tried large areas, I've been widening knots, cracks and small voids with a dremel then do the T-inlay. I would try it with that bowl personally. IMHO
Here's one I just finished and shot of what I did with the rim:
Here's one I just finished and shot of what I did with the rim:
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Ziricote.....photo taken earlier yesterday, and I finished it last night.....except for it's still on the waste block, and the foot needs to be done. A fairly difficult wood to get a clean cut, but can be done with sharp tools.
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Lovely work, per usual, Odie.
That Zircote is some interesting stuff. I’ve never worked it, but am interested.
Your work shows the beauty of this wood, quite effectively.
I did buy one of Odie's pieces. Pictures are nice, but you need to seem them in person to really appreciate the work that goes into them...
robo hippy
robo hippy
Jeez, Odie, what's a maverick to do? Your work is appreciated by the herd!😱
Hey, thanks for the good word, robo......🙂
That Black and White Ebony was one of the most cantankerous pieces of wood I've ever turned.....glad you got it for your collection, sir!
Here is a thread discussing the cracks that developed in that bowl:
What's the best way to prevent cracks in black and white ebony?
Right now, there is some very nice black and white ebony bowl blanks on the Cook Woods site. I should know better than to buy any, because I've turned several pieces in the past......and, they all had severe cracks. I know this species has this very common problem, so, I have been warned...
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