I believe it was Clay Foster that referred to the dry wood as 'Pecan-crete'! 😀 Never had the 'pleasure' of turning the stuff.Turning pecan for the first time. Wow, this stuff is hard. Not the most fun I’ve had at the lathe. Was going to make a hollow form, but I might just drill a hole, drop in a test tube, and make it a stem vase.View attachment 62535
WOW Jim, that's even more than what I would dare to keep with the staples, but yes it always works for me, as for the staples, I do make them myself from stiff SS wire and large enough that there is enough wood for the staple to hold it without splitting that out.It looks like this Cherry crotch NE bowl might survive. I left the faceplate on, bound the base with safety wire, and as Leo suggested, I put in a couple of staples across the bark inclusion. I used romex staples because that's what I had.
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I used epoxy and sawdust to fill the bark inclusion and knot voids.
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I used koa pewa to hide the staple holes. Now hopefully I can get the back and foot finished without knocking the bark off.
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I think anything in that related pecan/hickory/nutwood family is like "pecan-crete" when fully dry. I've got a few now-dry hickory rough-turns in my in-progress stack that I've been ignoring for a long time for that reason. Lord give me strength, literally.I believe it was Clay Foster that referred to the dry wood as 'Pecan-crete'! 😀 Never had the 'pleasure' of turning the stuff.
really pretty. Looking forward to seeing final piece.@James Seyfried
Second turned this spalted Hackberry bowl last evening. After bringing to round subsequent to the seasoning period, I applied a heavy coat of DO eleven days ago, so it had plenty of time to cure and harden. I was surprised how much DO it soaked up.....probably about 1/4th of a pint can of DO! Anyway, it did have to soak deep enough to remain on the surface after the second turn......and, apparently it did. It turned surprising well, with a minimum of tearout on this very soft spalting. It also sanded extremely well, although the DO caused it to clog up sandpaper badly. I suppose that's a good use of sandpaper, in order to get a very spalted and soft surface to respond well, and ultimately, successfully.
It remains to be seen yet, just how well this surface will respond to the Beall buffing process...... ?????
-o-
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I just turned a little pecan HF and was shocked how hard the wood was! Pecan-crete it is!I believe it was Clay Foster that referred to the dry wood as 'Pecan-crete'! 😀 Never had the 'pleasure' of turning the stuff.
It also sanded extremely well, although the DO caused it to clog up sandpaper badly. I suppose that's a good use of sandpaper, in order to get a very spalted and soft surface to respond well, and ultimately, successfully.
at what point do you do this? Before second turning? Do you also stabilize w thin CA?I also soak DO into natural edge bowls
really pretty. Looking forward to seeing final piece.
at what point do you do this? Before second turning? Do you also stabilize w thin CA?
The final update: I finished the Box/Container today 4/13/2024. The drying schedule was updated to 282.4G on 4/9/2024 and today before finishing it read 283.5G so it looks like spring has reached the north woods.The requested update! The top of the whatchamacallit shows very little distortion, the bottom with the tenon does not show any checks, the walls and the rim do not have any checks and per the drying schedule pictured (The piece was not put back in the bag on 4/5/2024) the turning has lost almost 100 grams. So who says you have to get rid of the pith?
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WOW Jim, that's even more than what I would dare to keep with the staples, but yes it always works for me, as for the staples, I do make them myself from stiff SS wire and large enough that there is enough wood for the staple to hold it without splitting that out.
Good job though, View attachment 62587
James, that is one beautiful piece of cherry. Great job!
Beautiful as always, Odie! Don't you just love the fine neon flour dust padauk makes?
Bummer!And a cedar bowl I sanded through. No wonder that spot was hard to sand. It started as an ogee bowl but the rim flew apart. This piece of cedar has been dead for years and has a lot of holes. What looks like tool marks above that knot is just odd grain.
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Bummer!
Beautiful as always, Odie! Don't you just love the fine neon flour dust padauk makes?
The trade-off for the “fun” of Pecan is the ability to achieve a porcelain-like finish when sanded to 400+. Really wonderful.I believe it was Clay Foster that referred to the dry wood as 'Pecan-crete'! 😀 Never had the 'pleasure' of turning the stuff.
Nice, never seen Hackberry take on that much color.@James Seyfried
Second turned this spalted Hackberry bowl last evening. After bringing to round subsequent to the seasoning period, I applied a heavy coat of DO eleven days ago, so it had plenty of time to cure and harden. I was surprised how much DO it soaked up.....probably about 1/4th of a pint can of DO! Anyway, it did have to soak deep enough to remain on the surface after the second turn......and, apparently it did. It turned surprising well, with a minimum of tearout on this very soft spalting. It also sanded extremely well, although the DO caused it to clog up sandpaper badly. I suppose that's a good use of sandpaper, in order to get a very spalted and soft surface to respond well, and ultimately, successfully.
It remains to be seen yet, just how well this surface will respond to the Beall buffing process...... ?????
-o-
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That red is amazing! It will fade though, right?
Padauk IMHO does not fade so much as it transitions. reddish orange -> dark red-> almost blackThat red is amazing! It will fade though, right?
First time working with Sassafras. Unfortunately, my blocks were bone dry so I didn’t get to experience the apparently wonderful smell when green-turned. Still, it turns nicely and sands well. Here is a piece after some preliminary sanding at 150.
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Yes, unfortunately it will. It's sunlight that causes the change, so the location will be important to preserving the color for as long as possible.That red is amazing! It will fade though, right?
Glad you walked away from that one. Bark inclusions and ring shakes are dangerous. Cut the wood holding the piece together and you set pieces flying.Tried turning a crotch piece but the bark went too far into the bottom.