Excellent. I did the cast iron tool rests for both my 3520C and 2014 ... the JB Weld is holding up well and the top bar shows no sign of any wear.I watched that when I ordered my top bar, how is yours holding up?
Excellent. I did the cast iron tool rests for both my 3520C and 2014 ... the JB Weld is holding up well and the top bar shows no sign of any wear.I watched that when I ordered my top bar, how is yours holding up?
Seems like a low (really low) dollar fix to a semi-non-issue on a really expensive machine. Buy a Robust rest and be done with it forever.
Firstly, did you make sure you got the right kind of JB Weld? There are several types that may look confusingly similar, the very specific type of JB Weld is explained in the D-way Video. and secondly as mentioned by others, proper mixing and portions can be critical. I got my JB Weld from a reputable seller on Amazon (In fact it was Amazon itself as the seller)I must have done something wrong? went step by step to the instructions on the video.
My first attempt was a complete failure.
After letting the JB weld cure for a complete 24 hours my "spot" welds didn't hold at all.
At first the rod seemed to be held to the tool rest. So I proceeded to the next steps in the video. I taped up the tool rest ( as shown in the video and proceeded to apply the rest of the JB weld. )
Smoothed out the JB weld using denatured alcohol on my finger as shown in the video and got everything "welded up" so to speak, and went to remove the green tape and the rod just came off the tool rest like it had never been epoxied at all??
So the JB weld only partially adhered to the rod ( Weak bond at best) but did adhere to my tool rest.
Before applying the JB weld I sanded both and cleaned with denatured alcohol and let completely dry.
Maybe I'll try again some other day but for now I am going to skip this upgrade and move on.
The Jury is in recess out on this upgrade.
Did you do the whole rest at once or do a couple of spots just to hold it in place and then put the rest on the next day?I have never heard of JB Weld failing. It's rated at 5020 psi tensile strength.
That’s … super weird. I feel like there must have been either a material failure (JB Weld) or a process error somewhere in there. I did the D-Way mod on my Nova Galaxi’s tool rest, and it went completely smoothly. I forget the video’s precise steps, but I did grind away all of the paint on the top of the tool rest, i.e. the contact area, then carefully cleaned away all grinding debris. Only then did I use the JB Weld. I never put it to any extreme test, but I absolutely did bang on it a bit to ensure the connection was rock solid.I must have done something wrong? went step by step to the instructions on the video.
My first attempt was a complete failure.
This is what I used specifically - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O1ICE Note their Product Model Number - 8265S Looking on Amazon there's a TON of different J-B Weld epoxiesI am going to make a second attempt at this using your suggestions.
I have the JB weld that has 15-24 hour cure time and I got it off the shelf at Walmart.
I cleaned everything with DNA the first time but I want to try the acetone cleaner this time as suggested by John Lucas.
Warning / Caution:
These cannot be welded as it will ruin the heat treating of the hardened rod at the welded spots.
I can confirm that this is exactly what I used, and I’m nearly certain is the precise product used by Jimmie Allen in the D-Way installation video.This is what I used specifically - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O1ICE Note their Product Model Number - 8265S Looking on Amazon there's a TON of different J-B Weld epoxies
That's the same stuff I have.I can confirm that this is exactly what I used, and I’m nearly certain is the precise product used by Jimmie Allen in the D-Way installation video.
AKA "Everclear". Hilariously, I know of recording engineers who would cross state lines to buy the stuff, to clean their DAT (digital audio tape) heads. Those were helical scan heads similar to what VCRs used. Anything that could leave any residue was a huge problem.pure grain alcohol (ethanol)
I followed the instructions included and in the video to a t, so did 2 or 3 spot welds (I forget) and then taped it to hold overnight before finishing the next day. What you've got going in the pic looks exactly right, and is certainly a neater bead than I did. I would be shocked if that doesn't hold now.Did you do the whole rest at once or do a couple of spots just to hold it in place and then put the rest on the next day?
I think that is what is in the video.
Thanks,
Greg
Yeah, I ran a bead on both sides of the bar, and like I said earlier, that setup has been rock solid on some pretty brutal turns with, for example, an out of round bradford pear live edge half a log that I needed help to lift between centers. After a rough-turn like that, especially with green walnut or similar, I will occasionally wet-sand/scrub it length-wise with 220/320/400 and then 0000 steel wool, all soaked in mineral spirits (or at least that last step). Wipe down and buff in a little paste wax with a shop towel-good as new, and no nicks!@Aaron Harris - Hey did you do the back and ends also ?
I checked it this morning and all seems good to this point.