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Texturing Woodturnings

I wrote this to show some of the tools and methods I use to add texture to woodturnings. It’s a rewrite of a doc I wrote maybe 10 years ago, updated to accompany a separate document on turning thin spindles for a recent demo.

Most, but not all of the examples concern spindles, things like wands and handles.

Perhaps someone will find it interesting, or even [gasp!] useful.

Corrections or suggestions for future updates are always welcome!

JKJ
 

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I wrote this to show some of the tools and methods I use to add texture to woodturnings. It’s a rewrite of a doc I wrote maybe 10 years ago, updated to accompany a separate document on turning thin spindles for a recent demo.

Most, but not all of the examples concern spindles, things like wands and handles.

Perhaps someone will find it interesting, or even [gasp!] useful.

Corrections or suggestions for future updates are always welcome!

JKJ
Thank you JKJ. Very well done.
 
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Thanks John, You da Man! As usual, your articles and handouts are the best out there. I don't know how you find the time to do all that you do.
 
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Thanks John, You da Man! As usual, your articles and handouts are the best out there. I don't know how you find the time to do all that you do.

Why thank you for the kind feedback. I’ve learned how to go without sleep. I admit to getting a little more tired now than back when I was 73. 😅

My philosophy is to share as much as possible as often as possible. (and teaching is my favorite thing to do!)

JKJ
 
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John, thank you for taking the time to put this together and then sharing it with us. I very much look forward to going through it again in detail and applying what you have captured in my own way
 
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Thanks, all! Remember there are many other texturing methods I didn't mention. One of my favorites is cutting a number of shallow v-grooves close together, sometimes in several bands on the spindle. I've done this on small goblets and small bowls too but it's not so good if the wood warps even slightly (from stress relief or moisture change) before texturing. End grain turnings are USUALLY better about staying round!

JKJ
 
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Thank you! Love this kind of thing. I have never quite been able to get the hang of texturing. I have the small sorby texturing tool, but I can never quite seem to get a nice texture. I get shredding and overlapping scrapes, but never nice textures. Been absorbing all the resources I can lately on how to use the tool properly, so thanks!
 
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Thank you! Love this kind of thing. I have never quite been able to get the hang of texturing. I have the small sorby texturing tool, but I can never quite seem to get a nice texture. I get shredding and overlapping scrapes, but never nice textures. Been absorbing all the resources I can lately on how to use the tool properly, so thanks!

It may be a long walk, but come by and I'll show you everything I know in 15 minutes!

Often, someone watching you work can make an instant difference.

JKJ
 
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It may be a long walk, but come by and I'll show you everything I know in 15 minutes!

Often, someone watching you work can make an instant difference.

JKJ

Aye, in-person is always better. Its often tough to really see tool angles and the like with online videos. I think that's a key part of my issues. But I think there is more to it than that. Sometimes I'm sure that part of it is just having a bad diameter on the piece, which doesn't allow for good overlap of the pattern?
 
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Aye, in-person is always better. Its often tough to really see tool angles and the like with online videos. I think that's a key part of my issues. But I think there is more to it than that. Sometimes I'm sure that part of it is just having a bad diameter on the piece, which doesn't allow for good overlap of the pattern?
If you refer to the sorby texture tool, diameter of the piece doesn't really matter - The tool is effective on textures as small as 1 inch diameter (maybe even smaller, but I can't speak to that) It has taken me many months of trial and error (no one to learn from in person around here) and numerous videos watched (some multiple times) and LOTS of practice to get really effective with it. Among *several* key variables, Lathe speed is one of them (Got to match speed with diameter of the texture you want to turn at least at first.. later on you can adjust speed to get different effects and patterns, etc.) - The angle you set the tool in relation to horizontal plane is another (the flatter you can present the tool, the easier it is to use and master the technique before making it a steeper angle) and getting your tool rest height and position just right for the texture you are aiming for (lots of experimentation there). So I might suggest taking a 2 inch thick offcut of something, turn it round to "bowl blank" shape (or box shape) - the results will vary based on wood, and grain direction, too, so figure what you plan to use it on most often (for me it was bowl bottoms and rim decorations) and turn yourself a couple of scrap blanks to practice on leaving enough so you can turn away the first tries for a "Clean slate" to try again.

Typically tool meets wood at about center height of spindle axis, but I learned to angle tool down (raise handle) and slowly bring it up to meet wood, and before trying to make a wider texture (by moving tool side to side) try to master the art of getting the texture wheel to follow its own path without skipping out (you get a feel for it) and start very lightly on first pass and then more very light passes until you get the texture depth you want - instead of trying to get a deep texture in one pass... eventually you'll be able to make a nice wide spiral by letting the wheel rotate (Which is why light touch is better than heavy passes)

But as JKJ Says - NOTHING can beat a hands-on in-person instruction from someone who has already mastered (or mostly mastered) the tool you are interested in using... However, It is possible, if you are patient and logical about it (Step by step, master one step at a time, and when things go wrong, don't try again until you think you know what might have gone wrong and have a plan to mitigate or overcome it.) Then it's possible to learn and master pretty much any tool, (and/or invent your own - How do you think the first person to create the sorby texturing tool learned how to use it when they first thought it up?)
 
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I have the small sorby texturing tool

Some things, which exact Sorby set do you have? What texturing wheels came with it? What type of turnings are you trying to texture: spindles, or things like platters, bowls, or box lids, or what? If spindles, what diameters have you tried?

Looking back a few messages, I see you said you have the "small" tool. I'm assuming this is what they call the "micro" tool. Sorby sells it as a micro "spiraling" tool. Is that what you have?

I bought the large Sorby texturing set and the Micro set. I still have the large set but unfortunately, I can't find the Micro in my shop - I may have given it to someone - so I can't examine it. How would you describe the texturing wheel(s) you have?

If I remember, it came with two wheels but I'm certain I had a third wheel - I may have bought it separately Both that came with the Micro Spirialing Tool had a star shape from the side but I think both had sharp flats on the circumference, kind of like gears, not points. If so, I found these good for making spirals on face work - top of boxes, etc., but not so good for making textures on spindles, like in the pictures below. For this type of texturing, the wheel needs sharp points.

oven_stick_handle1b_IMG_5747.jpg

texture_IMG_7837e.jpg

For these, I use a star-shaped wheel with very sharp points around the circumference. I have a wheel like this for my large Sorby and one for a small, shop made, texturing tool. The wheel on the large Sorby set has a larger diameter but the space between each point is larger than the spacing on the small texturing wheel I use. The larger spacing doesn't work as well, to my satisfaction, on smaller diameter spindles as the wheel with the smaller spacing. I'm not at the shop now but I think the diameter of the first handle shown (on an "oven stick") is well under an inch, probably closer to 3/4". The small texturing wheel works well on this diameter, making the closely spaced dots.

I think for the Micro set I must have purchased a separate texturing wheel with sharp points. Maybe it's this one called the "Sorby Micro Texture CUTTER".

I saw that cutter somewhere in a picture taken at an angle and it appeared to have very sharp points around the circumference. If you don't have one with sharp points, you might call and ask if the one Packard sells does. If not, I've also seen them offered at an industrial supplier, Granger maybe. You just have to be sure the shaft of the tool matches the hole in the cutter.

Or maybe Crafts Supplies sells the sharp pointed cutter since they offer the Micro spiraling set:

I found a picture of a meat tenderizer I made with a ring of texturing. I did this with one of the spiraling cutters, but I pushed it straight into the textured area, without angling and moving as it would normally be used to make a spiral. Makes a different (and interesting) type of texture, but not nearly as delicate as the sharp pointed wheels. I'm sorry I didn't cover how to I've used spirialing wheels in the document (and research exactly where to get the small pointed wheels I prefer). However, I think there are some youtube videos on using the spiraling tool.

Niles_meat_IMG_7952.jpg

Note that the reason the spiraling tools come with the adjustable guide is so you can set it to a specific angle and slide it along the toolrest. As the tool cuts, it's normally moved along a spindle or across a face. The tricky part is coordinating the lathe speed with the lateral motion.

Some of these the disks shown below have spirals made by moving the spirialing cutter. With a little practice it's easy to make the little clean spirals in the cener of some. I made these quickly for and during a demo, not for specific projects. The spiraling wheel I used has sharp flats on the circumference, not sharp points. On most I added a little colored filler to make the texturing show up better. On one I used a cross-hatching method, angled first in one direction, then the another.

(Since the result can be variable and some variations look better than others, if I used this on, say, the lid of a box, either flat or shaped, I'd make several disks until one suited me then glue it into a recess cut into the lid of the box.

texture_IMG_7845e.jpg
Turner and teacher Frank Penta uses these texture wheels a lot on plates and platters. He's done it often enough the result looks good. (I joke that you can't hang out with Frank unless you have a texturing tool in your pocket!)

However, I'm not a huge fan of the spirialing tool, perhaps I haven't used it enough, or perhaps because I mostly texture spindles and love the look of the sharp pointed wheel.

Oh, I just thought of something I didn't try. If a spiraling wheel is held so only the corners of the wheel contact the piece, it might work much like a wheel with sharp points.

Also, if I didn't have one with sharp points, I might try to modify one with a CBN wheel on bench grinder. (That might be "fun"!)

So do you have the spiraling wheels with the sharp flats or a wheel with sharp points? Maybe take a closeup picture of the wheels you use, from an angle that shows the points.

JKJ
 
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@John K Jordan I just got back in from the shop, after closing it up. I'll see if I can find my texturing tool tomorrow and get some photos. It should be the Sorby Micro, the red one, with the smaller wheels.

Looking at your texturing on those...are they wands? That is some of the most intricate and fine texturing I've ever seen. So I'm very interested in continuing the conversation. No one I've watched on YT yet has come anywhere close to that kind of fine work. The meat tenderizer is also very nice. I don't know how you get such a fine surface to the wood, but it goes so well with the texturing.

Anyway, I am not sure if I still have all the wheels for my tool. I had three at first, I may have lost one. I'll find out tomorrow.

@Brian Gustin As with John, I'm interested in continuing the conversation. A lot of what you described, I've heard watching videos. But, there really is a lot going on, and I suspect I have angle, or approach, or something wrong that seems to result in shredded textures a lot of the time.
 
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@John K Jordan I just got back in from the shop, after closing it up. I'll see if I can find my texturing tool tomorrow and get some photos. It should be the Sorby Micro, the red one, with the smaller wheels.

Looking at your texturing on those...are they wands? That is some of the most intricate and fine texturing I've ever seen. So I'm very interested in continuing the conversation. No one I've watched on YT yet has come anywhere close to that kind of fine work. The meat tenderizer is also very nice. I don't know how you get such a fine surface to the wood, but it goes so well with the texturing.

Anyway, I am not sure if I still have all the wheels for my tool. I had three at first, I may have lost one. I'll find out tomorrow.

@Brian Gustin As with John, I'm interested in continuing the conversation. A lot of what you described, I've heard watching videos. But, there really is a lot going on, and I suspect I have angle, or approach, or something wrong that seems to result in shredded textures a lot of the time.
I will bet you do have the very same texturing tool I do.

Also a lesson to take to heart - be VERY careful with the little brass screw that holds wheel in place , make sure it is nice and snug when making any wheel changes (better yet put a small bit of sticky tape over the screw after lubricating and cleaning off.) - On mine, I had that screw suddenly get loose and it spun itself out and buried itself deep in a pile of shavings - over 2 hours searching through the shavings pile (magnet doesn't help since it's brass or bronze) and could not find it, then discovered it isn't a spare part that is available - I cobbled together a bearing (piece of carbon fiber rod sanded & drilled to fit, then a standard screw with washer to hold it in place) until early this spring when I came by my old patternmaker's lathe with its cross slide, and turned a new brass shoulder screw in replacement.

But yes the micro tool, red handle (and I have 2 different pitch cutter wheels) about 10 inches long overall is the very one I have and had to learn to use (and still haven't mastered, but might offer a few more pointers or detail not in my last post) So just drop me a note any time, I can try my best to explain specifics.
 
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Wow, everyone is so kind! Thanks for the encouragement!

Looking at your texturing on those...are they wands? That is some of the most intricate and fine texturing I've ever seen. So I'm very interested in continuing the conversation. No one I've watched on YT yet has come anywhere close to that kind of fine work. The meat tenderizer is also very nice. I don't know how you get such a fine surface to the wood, but it goes so well with the texturing.

Jon, the two in the lower photo are wands. The one in the upper photo is an oven stick, used to push and pull a hot oven rack. (A nice project, appreciated by many who use ovens!) I also use it a lot on tool handles and lots of other handles since it is so easy.

Aside, about oven sticks: I think this is the same oven stick as shown in the photo, but with poorer lighting. (For turnings and other small things it's easier to control the lighting far better with my "photo cube" - a topic for another time if anyone is interested.)​
oven_stick.jpg
This is an oven stick in use. Sorry, terrible photo (I'm a certified photo snob!)​
oven_stick_cake_IMG_5822.jpg
(I got the idea for these years ago from someone on a woodworking forum who made them from flat wood - he mailed one to me. I decided that one with a turned handle would be interesting - since then I've made a bunch and taught my method to students and at club demos, and posted about them on other forums. Real easy - things needed: wood blank, bandsaw, drill, lathe, files and sand paper! I keep one tub full of oven stick blanks already drilled and shaped and ready to mount on the lathe! The picture below is a blank mounted and ready to turn. I usually shape part of the flattened area with the bandsaw before turning but not always. If I turn before bandsawing the shape of the working end, I draw the shape on the blank as a guide. For teaching purposes, on this blank I've drawn the outline of the handle as well as the shape of the working end. Note: either before or after turning, I drill a 1/4-5/16" hole at the bottom of each notch before cutting the two v-shaped notches. If anyone is interested, I can provide details sometime, but anyone could duplicate it from this, the dimensions are not critical.)​
oven_stick_blank_IMG_20170122_171.jpg
Back to texturing: I think that the "dot" texturing made with a pointed star wheel stands out well on spindles for two reasons: I outline the textured areas with shallow groves, then fill in the grooves and the little indentations with a dark grain filler. I discuss this on page 4 in the document. (Works best on fine-grained wood.)

This texturing technique is extremely simple and quick but still gets a lot of attention and questions when people see it up close. When I showed it at a demo at one club, several were running around looking for something dark to rub into the texture! (I didn't think to bring some)

-----------------------------------------
I had that screw suddenly get loose and it spun itself out and buried itself deep in a pile of shavings

Brian (sorry, I don't know how to do the @name thing in a post), as for losing things in the saving pile, I've done that as have many, but use two things that help. #1, I collect most shavings the dust collector misses, with big plastic tubs under my lathes. This usually catches anything that falls.
lathe_PM_tub.jpg
#2, when full enough, I take the tub outside, sift through with my fingers, then dump the shavings on the ground in the woods behind my shop. I spread out the shavings and use a metal detector to find anything I missed. (the non-discriminating wand detectors made for boards and logs at the sawmill work well)

This wouldn't be as easy if I lived where I had to bag the shavings!

JKJ
 

hockenbery

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Phil Brennion many years ago as an experiment, set off gunpowder on the top of a southwestern vessel to get a random pattern. It didn’t catch on.
Phil’s technique textured and “aged” the vessels in a “flash”
. Wish I had gotten to spend more time with him.
He did an article in the Journal.

IMG_2362.jpegIMG_2363.jpeg
 
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I had to chuckle when the final statement "The finished vessel, aged almost instantly..."
was preceded by three pictures of the process steps with the note "the process must be repeated 20-30 times."

JKJ
To be fair, 20-30 iterations of a quick blast of fire, compared to years (or decades) of natural aging, ain't too bad. ;) On a relative time scale, I think "almost instantly" fits. :D
 

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Also a lesson to take to heart - be VERY careful with the little brass screw that holds wheel in place , make sure it is nice and snug when making any wheel changes ....
Haha ... learned that the hard way as well. First use was when mentoring a club member - we wanted to try it out to see what it could do! Two seconds later the texturing wheel took off across the shop floor ... never to be seen again!!! That was back in 2009. :(
 
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Haha ... learned that the hard way as well. First use was when mentoring a club member - we wanted to try it out to see what it could do! Two seconds later the texturing wheel took off across the shop floor ... never to be seen again!!! That was back in 2009. :(

I think you need to figure which way the wheel will be turning while in use. You don't want it going the same direction that would loosen the screw. I made that mistake when setting up a steady rest for the first time. 😵‍💫
 
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