You mean for my Delta drill press?
I'm not very savvy with electrical things......I don't know if it would work, or not!
Maybe someone else has the answer...
-----odie-----
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You mean for my Delta drill press?
I'm not very savvy with electrical things......I don't know if it would work, or not!
Maybe someone else has the answer...
-----odie-----
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You said varible speed drill press would be good. I know that it's not good to hold 2 live wires while standing in h2o on concrete. You can look up volts, amps etc. or ask ask those who know those things. I was giving a option.
Odie, that is the same drill press I had. Main thing I didn't like about it was the set screws to keep the belt tensioned would always work loose, so I took 2 of the plastic splitting wedges and put them behind the motor to keep the tension constant. I will give a review when I get it together and working. Main thing I do with it is use a 2 5/8 forstner bit to drill a recess for mounting bowl blanks.
robo hippy
robo hippy
Hi robo......
Hmmmm.....the tension on the belts hasn't been a problem for mine....stays put for me. I'd hesitate calling it a set screw, although it works in the same manner. It has a handle.
-----odie-----
Thanks!Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977
Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!
Thanks Bob. Yes, Salem Barker's carving is amazing!
And a Happy Thanksgiving was had by all
These speed control devices are designed to work with universal (brush type) motors, not induction motors. I would be surprised if your drill press is equipped with a universal motor.
Well just got a chance today to take a couple shots of the lathe station. This area is dynamic but the rest of the shop is more or less static.
As to Odies conundrum on speed control in addition to what Gerald said about the type of motor I think I read some years ago that these controllers will reduce torque but as I said that was a long time ago. I have the same DP and the motor is locked in tension by a lever at the back.
As to Odies conundrum on speed control in addition to what Gerald said about the type of motor I think I read some years ago that these controllers will reduce torque but as I said that was a long time ago. I have the same DP and the motor is locked in tension by a lever at the back.
The buttons work fine. I love that I can touch the piece, zero it and go precisely the exact depth I need. I really like that I can thread holes and what bad thing can you say about variable speed. Also it is upgradeable. I have never minded the buttons on my DVR 3000 but I was able to upgrade it to the part with the speed knob and now top speed is 5000 rpms (great for threading with my Baxter threading jig).
Richard, I love that press (on top of your table saw). Is that originally for bookbinding? I’m curious where you sourced it.
I purchased it on line. It is a shop fox. Not sure from whom. I think it was $80-130ish. Hope this helps
Thanks Richard!
Here’s a panoramic view of my shop. It covers about 180°. I hope it works!
Here’s a panoramic view of my shop. It covers about 180°. I hope it works!
here's my shop shortly after we finished building and setup for a studio tour weekend here on the island...the other photos are of the turning area as it is most of the time. Haven't had a studio tour weekend since covid hit. Looking for a good excuse to clean up.
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Jim McLain
Artist
Here is my shop all cleaned up. It is a round adobe structure. Having round walls does create some challenges. It has been inproved/modified over 30 years now.
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You wouldn't need something that big for bookbinding unless you were doing a *very* large book. Mine is an old cast iron copy press that's slightly larger than letter size.
Like the cyclone vac setup, and aircraft!
I have a small (13’ x 26’) downstairs workshop with a lathe area partitioned off from the remaining area. So far I have turned some pens and three bottle stops and it works for me as I begin my turning journey.
Bill I’ve had no issues with it. However I very seldom change the speed.
36” Port-a-cool.
No that‘s a propane heater from a poultry house. I thought you were referring the port-a-cooler, that wasn’t in the pic.
Jim McLain
Artist
Nice shop Crazy seeing an airplane in a shop. With it out you’ll have plenty of room to speared out.
Steve I gather that you have a Powermatic variable speed drill press, so how do you change speeds?
When I started the airplane project I vowed I would not be one of the huge percentage who never finishes. I've about come to accept that I'll be in that group. I may try to find it a new home come spring.
That will give me plenty of room if I can keep the DW's car out.
My shop is in a 30' x 40' pole barn that I use for everything from wood turning to truck repair. So everything is on casters except the lathes that can be moved with a hydraulic lift table. The curtains and the new dust collection system have done a lot to keep the dust under control.
My main turning area is 10' X 12' with another 6' X 12' room that houses the dust collector, air compressor & shop vacuum set-up. I primarily do wet wood processing of bowls, vases & hollow forms. Except for the gouges, most everything else turning related is stored in the metal cabinets.
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Jim,
My inexpert understanding is that static build-up is a problem with PVC piping. How do you address that? Do you find the flow rate of air in the system is comparable to metal ducting?
Tom Gall
TOTW Team
I've had PVC (mostly 6"- probably 60-70 linear feet) on my DC system since 1986 without any problems. Never noticed any static problems. My shop is in the basement - don't know if that would make a difference.....humidity, etc..
Dean the material the duct is made of affects the airflow only if it is not smooth. Ribbed duct should be kept to a minimum as the ribs cause disruption of the airflow. I have PVC and have never had a static problem but it does form sometimes when the air is cold and dry. Guess for here DRY may be the operative word--too much humidity.
I that plane a Hatz?
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Agree with the others.. my DC is actually cheaper PVC waste pipe (Green color) and Sch. 40 fittings, have had no problems with static of any kind, though I have had sawdust and wood chips leap up and stick to my hand as I was dragging my (also plastic) 35 gallon dust barrel out to be emptied, and I can sometimes get arm hairs to stand up if I get close to one of the pipes while DC is running - but then pretty much get the same effect with a shop vac hose too.
I read up on the "myths" of PVC dust collection, making note of some fire protection agency types that did scientific studies and unless you have a huge (hundreds of feet) dust collection with a large (8 inch, 10 inch, etc) volume and more massive air flow (think industrial factory) even if there is the rare static discharge in one of your pipes, you won't have enough dust density to spark anything, much less an explosion.... Then I read up on suggestions for grounding the DC, and for my little shop (maybe 40 feet total of pipe & fittings) I don't even have grounding, and actually pipe fastened together with just duct tape... As far as air flow, I got a cheapie Wen DC (I think it was what 660 CFM?) from amazon, and a lidded plastic barrel (from global industrial) and a vortex type fitting set that bolts to the lid of the barrel (from Rockler, I think it was?), creating the same effect as one of those cyclone dust separators.. I have absolutely no problems , at least until the barrel fills up with shavings from the planer (which is usually when I have to stop and dump it) and the "cyclone" picks up shavings that clog up the DC's intake screen. So if you had been considering PVC pipe for dust collection, I'd say go for it , unless you're building an industrial shop-sized system with a ton of machines and connections. - but that's more for a practical standpoint (I don't even know as 6 inch PVC is available? certainly is not sold at my local builder supply) since for much more than 60 or 80 feet of piping, you probably want the main trunk line at 6 inch (and a 6 inch dust collector) according to what I had read.
No, It's an Acro Sport II
I used all sewer and drain, pipe and fittings (ASTM D-2729 pipe). I found the fittings local but had to do a lot of searching and drive a bit to find white 6” pipe. I have some OCD tendencies. They are screwed together with sheet metal screws and the joints are sealed with silicone tape. (I have a few joints left to seal) I am by far no expert but from what I have read agrees with what others have said about static electricity problems being minimal for a small shop. It is my understanding that the layout and how you make the turns will have more effect on efficiency than the type of pipe. Since this is the only system that I have setup so I don’t know how it compares to metal ducting.