Yet another tung oil question

[Alan Weinberg]

I like pure tung oil. I know there are other versions and other oils that dry faster. I often use several coats, but not the 50 or so Ron Kent would use. I wait a few days between coats until it feels dry and I’ve read it’s food safe after a 30 day cure, though most of what I turn is not for food use. I know curing requires exposure to oxygen.

With that background, here’s my question. What’s the minimum time to wait after the last coat of pure tung oil before using something like multiple coats of polycrylic? Can I safely apply immediately when it seems dry, a week after the last coat, or wait the full month till it’s cured?

And is this the same for BLO and other oils?

 

[Marc Banka]

If I may ask, what’s the purpose? Why are you putting a synthetic, hard, film covering over a completely natural penetrating finish?
I don’t see how plastic coating will improve the piece. My grandmother always kept those clear plastic furniture protectors on her sofas. She thought it was nice.

 

[Alan Weinberg]

what’s the purpose?

I like the look. Here’s an example.

 

[Alan Weinberg]

 

[Marc Banka]

It’s a lovely endgrain piece, no doubt. Still, don’t know how it would be different without the oil, or without the poly.The top gloss (poly) sure does have a shine that gives a nice ‘pop’, but also brings attention to any surface irregularities.

Have you considered, or tried a hard wax over the seasoned tung oil? The wax still allows the oil to breathe, is quick to apply and has a leveling feel and look. Wax on —wax off! Minwax finishing wax is really quite hard.

Im just pondering so, thank you.

 

[Chris Lawrence]

If your going to put poly or lacquer on the piece there is no need to use a large amount of tung oil. When I do this I only put a small amount of the oil on to bring the grain out. Then after a couple days put the poly or lacquer on.

 

[Alan Weinberg]

without the poly

It was dull and looked unfinished. I’m new at this—7 months of turning—and learning. So I’m trying lots of things and asking lots of questions. And reading. And watching YouTube, joined AAW, and going to meetings at local chapter, took Jimmy Clewes class. So thats my background. I want to learn so I asked that question and started a thread.

Appreciate your input and that of others.

 

[Alan Weinberg]

Then after a couple days

Aha! An answer to my question. You don’t have to wait 30 days for complete curing before putting poly over tung.

 

[Chris Lawrence]

Aha! An answer to my question. You don’t have to wait 30 days for complete curing before putting poly over tung.

Only with a very light coat. If you saturate it with the oil it takes a long time to cure. The surface will start curing first and slow oxygen getting deeper into the wood. Another option is to buff and wax after the oil cures with something like the beals system. The tung oil will harden the wood fibers on the surface and allow it to be buffed well. Carnauba wax will give you a semi gloss sheen.

 

[Alan Weinberg]

beals system

I had heard that Beall went out of business but Woodcraft still has some. Their site said if I buy it for using in lathe: “you'll have to make a 1/4"-20 drawbar to hold it in place.” What is that and how do I do that?

See—I have lots of questions.

 

[Gord Cameron]

As Chris says you can get what you want (and better and faster) without a plasticky finish: light coat of tung oil, then buff and wax. Lee Valley has picked up the Beale line, including the buffing system. If I were putting a film finish over a full tung oil treatment I would wait 4-6 weeks.

 

[Chris Lawrence]

I had heard that Beall went out of business but Woodcraft still has some. Their site said if I buy it for using in lathe: “you'll have to make a 1/4"-20 drawbar to hold it in place.” What is that and how do I do that?

See—I have lots of questions.

There buffs have a 1/4" 20 tpi threads on them. I bought there kit that fits on a motor shaft and built a stand alone buffing station with a 1700 rpm motor from harbor freight. Something like this should clamp down on the 1/4 inch bolt on the buffs if you can't find the adapters. https://woodturnerscatalog.com/p/10...w+bar+collet+chuck&term=draw bar collet chuck

 

[Chris Lawrence]

If you want to use a motor to make a buffing station craft supply still has the kit I bought you would just need to get a motor with a 1/2 or 5/8 inch shaft. https://woodturnerscatalog.com/p/37/4001/beall-Wood-Buff-7-Piece-Set

 

[Alan Weinberg]

I’ve got limited space and don’t need another motorized gizmo. Any easy adaptation onto the lathe?

 

[Chris Lawrence]

I’ve got limited space and don’t need another motorized gizmo. Any easy adaptation onto the lathe?

This is an option https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/sho...01553-beall-morse-taper-mandrels?item=44J2692 You can use a piece of 1/4 20 threaded rod to lock it in. Just make a wood disc for the handwheel side of the headstock and a 1/4 20 wing nut to make a draw bar to hold it in.

 

[Alan Weinberg]

Thanks all—Beall ordered and will wait for tung oil to cure longer.

 

[Dean Center]

The combination you describe is unusual. The tung oil is known for producing a soft sheen and amber appearance. The polycrylic is unique in producing a shiny finish either with no change to the color, or a slight bluing of the color, and a reduction in chatoyance. Literally, oil and water.

I believe you could produce a similar (and better, IMHO) result, with an oil based poly, like wipe-on poly, a lot easier. Another, simpler alternative would be a 'danish' oil, which is a combination of oil and varnish in a single product. Either of these will mean fewer products in the cupboard, fewer half full cans of finish going bad, easier application, and a shorter learning curve. Feel free to invent your own finish routine, but consider if you'd be better off spending your time learning to sharpen and turn rather than doing home chemistry.

 

[Alan Weinberg]

The combination you describe is unusual. The tung oil is known for producing a soft sheen and amber appearance. The polycrylic is unique in producing a shiny finish either with no change to the color, or a slight bluing of the color, and a reduction in chatoyance. Literally, oil and water.

I believe you could produce a similar (and better, IMHO) result, with an oil based poly, like wipe-on poly, a lot easier. Another, simpler alternative would be a 'danish' oil, which is a combination of oil and varnish in a single product. Either of these will mean fewer products in the cupboard, fewer half full cans of finish going bad, easier application, and a shorter learning curve. Feel free to invent your own finish routine, but consider if you'd be better off spending your time learning to sharpen and turn rather than doing home chemistry.

Fabulous advice which I will heed and exactly what I hoped for. Danish oil the next piece. Several coats, and how far apart, a few days? Thanks much.

Just read a wealth of material re DO. Do you use the wet slurry technique for subsequent coats or just a coat a day for 3 days, 600 grit or 0000 wool between or some other technique?

 

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Since you do like Tung Oil, why not use pure Polymerized Tung Oil, it is thinned with a volatile like lemon oil or other, that will evaporate, and you can get a very smooth and shiny finish with two coats (depending on what wood and how the wood used has the surface finished before). here are a couple of my pieces with PTO (Polymerized Tung Oil) that have been polished after the finish is hardened up.

I get mine from Lee Valley and decant into glass closable bottles.

 

[Alan Weinberg]

Since you do like Tung Oil, why not use pure Polymerized Tung Oil, it is thinned with a volatile like lemon oil or other, that will evaporate, and you can get a very smooth and shiny finish with two coats (depending on what wood and how the wood used has the surface finished before). here are a couple of my pieces with PTO (Polymerized Tung Oil) that have been polished after the finish is hardened up.

I get mine from Lee Valley and decant into glass closable bottles.

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I’ve got some that is 50:50 W
with citrus oil. I’ll try it. Love how you finished the tenon on the first piece. Thanks.

 

[William Rogers]

Lee Valley has acquired the Beal products.

 

[Dean Center]

Everybody develops their preferred method(s) and in time you will too. For now, avoid the weeds, avoid a mix-it-yourself recipe, avoid the latest trendy product, pick one standard method that is known to work and go with it for a while. Ideally, the one you pick is one used by a mentor who can help you learn the nuances.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

I use walnut oil. I rub my finger across it and if I can see a difference between where I rubbed and didn’t then it is not ready yet. When I can rub my finger and not see a difference it is ready. My final finish is Arm R Seal or Waterlux.