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Woodcut bowlsaver

John Hicks

John Hicks

Joined
Jan 23, 2020
Messages
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Location
Shingletown CA
Does anyone here have any experience with the Woodcut bowlsaver Max 3? I'm trying to decide on a coring system and I do not see many reviews of this one. I was trying to decide between this one, and the Oneway; the McNaughton seems to have a bit more complex learning curve than these two. I'm getting to where I don't want to waste all this figured maple to shavings.

Max3__21094.1527030362.jpg
 
I have the older smaller one. They did 'new and improve' this one by adding the larger blade to make it more useful for bigger bowls. They did beef it up considerably as well. I don't think it is as 'vibration' free as the Oneway, but it doesn't cost as much either. I was looking to buy the new 3 blade model a while back and Woodworker's Emporium didn't have any in stock and didn't know when they were coming in. Packard seemed to have the 2 blade system, but not the 3 blade system. If you find a source, please post here... I don't think Craft Supplies carried them, but that may have been a while ago...

robo hippy
 
I have the newer three blade version. I have had it about a year so. It replaced my Oneway coring system. The Woodcut system is much quicker to set up and works quite well. The blade cuts better into the wood when a 5 degree negative rake is put on it. I haven't used the Woodcut very much, maybe a handful of times since I've had it. I find myself doing other things now instead of larger bowls. The Oneway is a really good system as well but takes longer in setup. I don't think you would be disappointed with either. If you have any specific questions let me know.
 
The Oneway coring system is like a Cadillac compared to 5he woodcut. Send a message of to Chris Ramsey and ask him about the Oneway. He can make it do things you never thought was imaginable.
Yes thy will both core wood. As all cars drive. But all cars are no5 the same. It’s the features your willing to pay for, and like all coring systems they are going to pay for themselves in no time with all those extra wood blanks. There is even a new hunter blade to fit the Oneway coring system.
 
Glenn, off topic a bit but you mention a new blade for the One Way coring system. I did a quick search and can't find anything. Can you provide more info?

thx
 
Thanks. I looked at their web site. Very limited (almost no) info on it. The video has no sound and just shows a guy coring. No details on the cutter, why better than what comes with the tool, etc. And very pricey for just a new cutter head. Will see if I can find some more info. Didn't know anyone made cutter heads for these other than oneway.
 
I have the Max3 system and use it occasionally. I have no experience with other systems so can’t compare. It is fairly easy to set up and use, and I’d guess you could describe it as the “basic model” bowl saver. Less expensive, but it works. You get essentially one shape, but it’s pleasing.
 
Damon, I am curious about your 5 degree negative rake. Never heard of that on a coring tool before. Did you grind that on yourself? The old set, when they only had 2 blades, had a concave top, and it felt like that ejected chips much better than the more standard flat scraper tips. First thought with the NR would be that it would not cut nearly as fast as the more standard scraper tip.

The difference with coring dry wood and coring wet wood is the same as with turning dry wood vs. turning green wood. With dry wood your feed rate is much slower.

robo hippy
 
robo hippy said:
Damon, I am curious about your 5 degree negative rake. Never heard of that on a coring tool before. Did you grind that on yourself? The old set, when they only had 2 blades, had a concave top, and it felt like that ejected chips much better than the more standard flat scraper tips. First thought with the NR would be that it would not cut nearly as fast as the more standard scraper tip.

The difference with coring dry wood and coring wet wood is the same as with turning dry wood vs. turning green wood. With dry wood your feed rate is much slower.

robo hippy
Click to expand...

Reed, the blades came sharpened with a flat top and it works good. A member in my club, Ron, bought his Woodcut the same week I purchased mine. He was having a lot of vibration and put a slight negative rate on one of his tips. It nearly made for a much smoother cut. After trying his I did it to my middle size blade and found that its a nicer experience. At the symposium in Albany down near you Ron spoke with a representative about adding the negative rake. They were receptive to the idea and I believe they added to their instruction manual to leave the top flat for soft woods and to add a 5 degree negative rake for hard woods. I find that the negative rake works fine on soft wood too.
 
Randy Anderson said:
Thanks. I looked at their web site. Very limited (almost no) info on it. The video has no sound and just shows a guy coring. No details on the cutter, why better than what comes with the tool, etc. And very pricey for just a new cutter head. Will see if I can find some more info. Didn't know anyone made cutter heads for these other than oneway.
Click to expand...
Yes I thought for 200$ it was a new coring system. Hard to tell, but looks like it’s just a carbide blade for the Oneway system. If so very expensive. I emailed the company last week for info and they have not responded.
 
Randy Anderson said:
Thanks. I looked at their web site. Very limited (almost no) info on it. The video has no sound and just shows a guy coring. No details on the cutter, why better than what comes with the tool, etc. And very pricey for just a new cutter head. Will see if I can find some more info. Didn't know anyone made cutter heads for these other than oneway.
Click to expand...

I had never heard of it before Glenn mentioned it. For that price I doubt I’ll ever have one. The video didn’t look like it cuts any better than the cutter that comes with it.
 
I did core some Osage Orange with the Woodcut system, and it did work, but it chattered a lot. I figured it may have been in part because of the tailstock support, which adds a bit longer lever to the system. Looking at the new 3 blade system, it looks like that part has been beefed up. When coring harder woods, just like when turning them, you just have to go slower...

robo hippy
 
I think now I'm deciding between the easy core and the McNaughton. I found an older set of McNaughton's (it just calls it a"large set") for a decent price, but still trying to make up my mind of versatility, or replaceable cutters.
 
John, I use the medium set of blades on my McNaughton 95% of the time. The original set of blades had all of the cutting edge off to the left side of the blade, not centered like the newer ones are. If they are that type of blade, you will want to replace them.

robo hippy
 
I've got a Bowlsaver Max 3 and I have been completely satisfied with it. Minimum learning curve, easy setup, and low stress coring. However, there is something going on with the company right now having to do with availability. Several months ago I wanted to replace a couple of the stellite cutters and I couldn't find them in stock at any of the companies in the US. I then contacted the company (New Zealand) and flat asked them if they were going out of business and they told me that they were in the process of revitalizing the production and inventory in order to meet customer demand. I still see "out of stock" notes at Woodworkers Emporium. Anyhow, I hate wasting wood and I recommend the Max3 without any reservation if you can find one. Here is a pic of a nested set I got from coring...and it gives me pause to think of putting finials on all this mess but I'll get around to it sooner or later I guess.Nested Bowls 1.jpg
 
robo hippy said:
Damon, I am curious about your 5 degree negative rake. Never heard of that on a coring tool before. Did you grind that on yourself? The old set, when they only had 2 blades, had a concave top, and it felt like that ejected chips much better than the more standard flat scraper tips. First thought with the NR would be that it would not cut nearly as fast as the more standard scraper tip.

The difference with coring dry wood and coring wet wood is the same as with turning dry wood vs. turning green wood. With dry wood your feed rate is much slower.

robo hippy
Click to expand...
Hi Robo, apologies for the delayed response on this thread. From a Woodcut Tools perspective we recommend considering a 5 degree negative rake when coring hard, dense wood to soften the process.
 
Dan Hewitt said:
Hi Robo, apologies for the delayed response on this thread. From a Woodcut Tools perspective we recommend considering a 5 degree negative rake when coring hard, dense wood to soften the process.
Click to expand...

I tried the tool edge both ways, and the negative rake provided less chatter and a smoother cut. I used white oak, cherry, and walnut wood types.
 
Well, far more experience with the McNaughton. Whenever I am roughing out the inside of a bowl, and using scrapers, I always have the tool angled down a bit. With the McNaughton, same thing, which is easy to do because of the 'flex' in the system. I also keep it slightly above center, especially for bigger bowls. Not sure if it would amount to 5 degrees or not. I did have one adventure when coring some black locust on my old PM3520A. I snapped the pressure plate on the bottom of the headstock. They were made of cast iron at the time.... They had switched to steel right after I bought mine.

Dan, I did send you an e mail some time ago about the Big Ugly tool I make. There are videos up on You Tube. Some one needs to make that scraper. I do use tantung as that is more readily available in the US than stellite. Best scraper ever for heavy duty roughing.

robo hippy
 
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