wood veneer auto dash parts

[GPope]

Hello all,
I am applying a lacewood veneer over the existing surfaces of the dash and glove box of my classic car. There is about 7 pieces in all. I am wondering what you guys would use to finish this surface for a convertible car. My thoughts would be to use oil based poly for its hardness in this environment.

I will not stain it as the gloss over this wood with the little ambering of poly will be beautiful. Since I have noticed that lacewood is not a perfectly smooth wood, can I build up more coats of poly to get to a smooth surface?

Can some of you get me on the right track? Am I heading in the right direction?

Thanks
GPope

 

[Dick Latshaw]

As my finishing friends in another forum are fond of pointing out - poly's main advantage is abrasion resistance, which makes it great for floors, and not much else. I would go with an alkyd resin varnish like Behlin's Rockhard, or, if you want to wipe it on, Waterlox. I have built a really nice, smooth finish with 8 to 10 coats of Waterlox Original.

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

I would think you are going to want something that will protect the wood from the sun.

Ed

 

[GPope]

I was looking at Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane. On the label it says it has UV protectors, good for water and moisture and great for temperature changes. Is that a good brand or does someone else make a better product? It is for exterior use and looks like it might fit the build.

In a convertible, sun will definitely be a factor.

Thanks

 

[Joe Greiner]

Spar varnish is used on sailboat spars, hence the name, so it's definitely suitable for outdoor exposure. It usually needs a sanding and re-coat every year or two. I used Minwax's Helmsman Spar Urethane on this outdoor sculpture: http://mysite.verizon.net/vze8eg0u/kwameweb/

After about three years, it could benefit from refinishing, but the sanding is daunting to say the least. Much easier for flat or round work.

Joe (Kwame = born on Saturday; no African heritage that I know of)

 

[Donna Banfield]

That's a really cool mailbox

but in these parts (NH), that sculpture is a magnet for bored teenagers, some alcohol and a baseball bat.

Very few mailboxes are left alone. :^(

 

[GPope]

Joe,
Since the dash will be in a protested area (auto), will the spar varnish need that much upkeep? It not like its going to be in the outdoor environment constantly, if at all. I would say that sun and temperature change (hot summer to cold winter) as the only realistic environmental challenges.

Dick, I looked up Rockhard and Waterlox, both fine products. Would I be in trouble with the UV and temperature change.

I also need something that wil not need regular maintenance.

Thanks
Pope

 

[Hugh]

I had a house built a few years back. We have wood doors. I talked to a number of pro painters and they said that the outside doors should be finished with a spar varnish - due to the UV protection it provided. The outside doors are protected by a porch pretty much and in 6 years have not needed to be re-finished. Some of the doors do get morning sun and others get the afternoon sun for a couple of hours. But they seem to be fine. For inside doors I was told to use polyurethane. Both are oil based and applied about the same - look the same, etc. I think I would go with the spar varnish. Krylon has a spray can UV protection that can be put on before putting on another finish. I have not had enough use to tell you any results though.

Hugh

 

[gentleben]

Wouldn't you need to find a finish that doesn't yellow with time? It has been my experience that varnish starts to yellow in a short period even Helmsman. From the gulf coast of Texas,
Gentleben

 

[GA Darling]

While there are many professionals out there, here are two that I would present your question to.

Sal Marino - http://members.aol.com/woodinfo1/salpage.htm

Michael Dresdner - http://www.michaeldresdner.com

If anyone can give you the right answer, one of these guys can.

GA Darling