• Beware of Counterfeit Woodturning Tools (click here for details)
  • Johnathan Silwones is starting a new AAW chapter, Southern Alleghenies Woodturners, in Johnstown, PA. (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Jim Hills for "Journey II" being selected as Turning of the Week for May 6th, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Wire Burning Question?

Joined
Nov 7, 2005
Messages
882
Likes
2
Location
Wimberley, Texas
Just tried some wire burning (correct technical term?) suggested by a friend (you know who you are) in conjunction with another process. Could not find the old hacksaw with the broken handle to hold the wire, so had to twist it around a couple of dowels about a foot apart. Started slowly to try keeping tiny wire (0.029") in tiny groove. Finally successful burning at about 1150 rpm on 7" diameter.

So the question is what rpm do you use at what diameter? Granted that it depends upon the kind of wood, maybe the kind of wire, and amount of pressure applied. But should be a "ballpark" number that will do the job quickly and reliably.

Looking for "surface velocity" at the contact area. On my test piece the surface travel per revolution is Pi x D, or 3.1416 x 7" = 22" per revolution. At 1150 rpm that is 22 x 1150 = 25,290 inches per minute, or 2,107 ft. per minute.

Does this seem about right, or maybe way too slow?
 
Joined
Aug 15, 2007
Messages
47
Likes
0
wire burning

I use piano wire to burn my rings because you can the wire in a variety of widths (ga.), and while burning, it holds up extremely well against the heat created...lesser quality wire will stretch and break under the stress. I haven't noticed a magic speed, like you said it is very dependent on the type of wood, its hardness, its thickness, and several other variables.

For example, I'll spin a 9" bowl anywhere from 700-1500rpm. You should have the speed high enough that you don't need to apply very much pressure for the wire to smoke, too much pressure and the wire will begin cutting into the wood like a wire cheese slicer. Again there is no one perfect speed, I know from experience when the speed is right based on the feel of the wire on the wood. Best advice is to have fun and play around with it.:cool2:

Hope this helps!

Cheers!
Nick
 
Joined
Jul 13, 2007
Messages
51
Likes
0
Location
Newport, Oregon
I use tinned copper wire from any electronics store. Lots of friction and a great heat transfer means less pressure and effort.
 
Joined
Feb 15, 2007
Messages
148
Likes
1
Location
Woodland, CA
Less danger if you use the edge of plastic laminate (formica). Just hold it in the groove and run up the speed. If you loose control, its a small piece of plastic and not a bunch of wire with handles wrapped around the work and spinning out of control. Same effect as the wire.
 
Joined
May 16, 2005
Messages
3,540
Likes
15
Friction is the key, and pressure the answer. Same as sanding.

I use annealed steel wire rather than copper, because it doesn't conduct the developed heat away as fast and is stronger than copper. Make sure you have a good groove or cut to ride it in and increase the pressure slowly to avoid slipping out. If the slope is too steep or the cut not deep, the Formica (free sample swatch) method works fine, but stinks worse.

Larger diameter the wire the better it absorbs heat, so the longer it takes, or so it seems. I like a bit more space between holds so I can wrap nearly halfway around the piece. It helps hold against slipping in the shallower groove. Just remember Ghostbusters and don't cross the wires around the piece.
 
Joined
Oct 2, 2006
Messages
1,049
Likes
35
Location
Tallahassee FL
Pretty much what they said, although I haven't tried the formica. The wire should approach the wood perpendicular to the surface. On steep slopes without a pre-cut groove, the burn is somewhat smudged at the edges owing to off-axis presentation. For really steep slopes, I've used a dental pick with an elbow portion riding the wood from a close-in toolrest (no pre-cut groove) - even works on the INSIDE of the bowl.

A near-180-degree wrap is too scary for my taste. I generally restrict it to about 30 degrees, even though it takes longer. Dowel handles work fine, and two small vise-grip pliers for Q&D experimentation of different wire sizes or materials. Do NOT under any circumstances wrap the wire around a finger unless you want to lose it, either by cutting or burning. Thank goodness, I have not BTDT.

Joe
 
R

Ron Sardo

Guest
I use guitar strings wrapped around two dowels.

I cut a tiny groove with the tip of a skew. Crank up the speed on the lathe and burn away.

How fast do I crank the speed up? As fast as I feel comfortable
 
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
120
Likes
0
Location
Southern Oregon
One thing I do - I rough up the copper wire with some 150g Sand Paper just prior to using the wire. This helps the wire grip the wood causing more friction.

I have successfully burned lines at 300 rpm but prefer higher speeds - 1000+ RPM. I always use the point of the skew or create a groove using the gouge before I use the wire. It makes it much easier.
 
Joined
Nov 25, 2007
Messages
31
Likes
0
Burning wire

Tried copper wire. Didn't like the heat transfer up the wire. Hot to the touch.
Often use .020 and .032 in. stainless steel wire.
Have also used the plastic laminate (Formica, etc.)

Exotic hardwoods can give slightly different colors of burn.
Done a little experimenting with them, but not enough to define any particular differences.
A thin stick of hardwood can be used w/o the danger of wire getting caught and wrapping around the piece.

Micarta is a phenolic resin with cloth product. Have also used thin strips of it. Not worth the price unless you already have some.

Basically anything hard that will fit the groove you want to burn should/could work since its a friction burn.

As for speed: I just spin and try. If its not wanting to burn, an increase in speed usually cures that.

Thin spindle items need slight pressure to keep from deflecting (read throwing or breaking) or cutting the piece. And since presssure and resistance is the key, faster speed may be called for.

For larger turnings, start slow and increase as needed.

T-Bird
 

Bill Boehme

Administrator
Staff member
Beta Tester
TOTW Team
Joined
Jan 27, 2005
Messages
12,903
Likes
5,194
Location
Dalworthington Gardens, TX
Website
pbase.com
Just tried some wire burning ..............So the question is what rpm do you use at what diameter? Granted that it depends upon the kind of wood, maybe the kind of wire, and amount of pressure applied............Looking for "surface velocity" at the contact area. ...............z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z

Ah, yes, the burning question!

First, engineer-to-engineer, this ain't rocket science -- so put away the K+E Decilon. My wire of choice is from a Gibson Les Paul Classic ... it comes in six diameters and each wire is long enough to last a lifetime. I prefer the springy steel wire because it is strong and the heat stays where you want it -- at the wood -- as opposed to copper which is too soft to use very fine wire and the large diameter stuff conducts the heat away from the wood.

As far as speed goes, the faster, the better -- within reason, of course. You don't need anything to cut a groove -- that is the wire's job. Start off lightly holding it in place and gradually increase the pressure. Also, as previously mentioned, Formica is good as another way of burning -- try breaking the Formica to get a sharp edge if you want to make a very narrow cut.

Bill
 
Joined
Nov 7, 2005
Messages
882
Likes
2
Location
Wimberley, Texas
Hey Bill,

That is an extremely nice guitar! Sold my (cheapie) guitar a while back. Never played it and needed the money for sandpaper and other important stuff.

Will try it without the groove next time. Have some fine stainless leader wire (somewhere), about E string size, left over from offshore fishing days many years ago.

You know how it is. Once an engineer, always an engineer. As with some other jobs, it's not what I do (did), it's what I am.
 

Bill Boehme

Administrator
Staff member
Beta Tester
TOTW Team
Joined
Jan 27, 2005
Messages
12,903
Likes
5,194
Location
Dalworthington Gardens, TX
Website
pbase.com
......You know how it is. Once an engineer, always an engineer. As with some other jobs, it's not what I do (did), it's what I am.

It's the curse of being an engineer. I try to disguise it, but it seems to show through anyway. Maybe it is the pocket protector and the band-aid on the bridge of my glasses.
 
Joined
May 13, 2005
Messages
1
Likes
0
For a finer line I use the "E" string from a violin. If you have a music student in the family or know one, that is the string they break most often, so there is a steady supply. The wire is top quality - can take a lot of abuse.

If you use dowels as handles on the ends of the wire, be certain to squeeze the dowels between your fingers and palms. Don't wrap your fingers around the dowels in a grip you would use with a normal tool. That way, if the wire breaks and happens to wrap around the piece, it won't pull your hand into it.
 
Joined
Nov 7, 2005
Messages
882
Likes
2
Location
Wimberley, Texas
Hi Terry,
Welcome to the forum! We are glad to hear from you, and thanks for the safety tip.

Have been a "music student" several times (at least 5 different instruments), but never had "the will to do the work" necessary to become proficient.

Now a "woodturning student", am enjoying doing the work and look forward to it every day.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Dec 10, 2006
Messages
578
Likes
7
Location
Mesa, Arizona
In addition to wire and plastic laminate

Try using paper to burn a line. To burn lines in some of my projects, I've used folded over brown paper sack, envelopes, typing paper, and even, paper towels. It doesn't produce as fine a line as wire might (the paper, itself, starts to burn, widening the line), but you can get a fairly fine line with thin paper and a pre-cut v-groove.

Just another alternative.
 
R

Ron Sardo

Guest
Talking about alternative burning techniques, try using thin strips of wood to add color.

Bubinga gives a reddish burn line.
Cocobolo gives a brownish line
Ebony, you guessed it, a black line.

I forget which woods I used but I've also burned in yellow and purple lines.

Dense and/or Oily woods seem to work the best
 
Joined
Nov 25, 2006
Messages
215
Likes
0
Eli Avisera showed me how to burl between the beads on the face of a bowl with a piece of really thin formica. The moldable thickness. I bring the samples from our Interior design department to meetings for guys to get, free. My only reward is going to ID and picking them up from the ladies.

I also get burning wire from Hobby Lobby. They have it for door chimes, etc. Many thicknesses, etc.
Did somebody mention making knob ends and not holding it in your fingers?
 
Back
Top