I am looking for a single bolt that will thread into my 1 1/4" by 8 TPI chucks. I want the bolt to be 1 1/2 inches long (1 3/8 also works). I have searched the internet a few times and found a lot of sources for a 1 1/4- 7 TPI, but not 8 TPI. The only source I have found for 1 1/4-8TPI is McMaster Carr., but unfortunately the shortest length they sell is 3 inches. I suppose this could be cut down, but I don't relish the prospect. Does anyone know where I could find such a bolt?
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Where Can I Find a 1 1/4 - 8tpi Bolt 1 1/2" Long
- Thread starter Mark Jundanian
- Start date
Lance Mirrer
AKA "taxman"
try https://broward-bolt.com/
I bought a 6' length of this and cut what I needed. But they have had everything I was looking for.
I bought a 6' length of this and cut what I needed. But they have had everything I was looking for.
McMaster-Carr:
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/screws/hex-head-screws~/thread-size~1-1-4-8-1/
Fastenal probably has them too, but their search is wonky.
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/screws/hex-head-screws~/thread-size~1-1-4-8-1/
Fastenal probably has them too, but their search is wonky.
Mark, I think your best bet would be the 6” long threaded rod that McMaster has and go at it with a hacksaw or if you know a bud with a metal cutting band saw. I didn’t look at their bolts but if they have a 3” long, make sure the threads are to the head and cut it off to length.
Dave Landers
Beta Tester
For the application I have, I use a 1"-8 bolt with a spindle adapter.
Lance Mirrer
AKA "taxman"
out of curiosity - what is the purpose of this?
Chuck up the bolt, run it slowly, and use a hacksaw to cut the bolt while it's spinning. Add a little oil every once and a while, and move the hacksaw a little too.
Mark,
I'm planning on buying some 1 1/4"-8 all thread and nuts from McMaster Carr to build a John Beaver Wave Bowl jig. My plan is to brutally cut the all thread with my metal cutting chop saw and then clean up the resulting mess with a grinder and files. If this appeals to you, let me know and I can cut a piece off for you. If you need the bolt head then this may not be attractive.
I'm planning on buying some 1 1/4"-8 all thread and nuts from McMaster Carr to build a John Beaver Wave Bowl jig. My plan is to brutally cut the all thread with my metal cutting chop saw and then clean up the resulting mess with a grinder and files. If this appeals to you, let me know and I can cut a piece off for you. If you need the bolt head then this may not be attractive.
I bought this on eBay almost a year ago for $14. 1 1/4 diameter x 8 tpi. Used, 12 inches long. screws right into my chucks without a problem. Might be some on there shorter. Was just called threaded rod with nuts. I'm not sure what they are used for.
Last edited:
That’s a flange stud
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That sounds like something that I tried once. And, I learned the hard way not to do that. The problem is the same if you use a parting tool without widening the kerf. I was running the lathe in reverse. The saw blade got pinched in the kerf and jerked me into the lathe. Luckily, the saw came loose and was thrown away from me. If the saw hadn't come loose, it would continued around and hit me in the chest or face. And that would have really hurt.
All of this happened in the blink of an eye and the show was over before I knew what had happened. Much faster than human reflexes. I recollect that the lathe speed was as slow as the Robust AB will go (somewhere between 30 and 50 RPM).
I am the Safety Officer Emeritus of the Woodturners of North Texas and an authority on the wrong way to do things.
I did get some hints that I ought to stop when the saw blade was starting to get a bit "grabby", but as a safety officer, it was my duty to press on.
This will not work because the hack saw will follow the thread. If we knew what the purpose of this is someone could maybe suggest a workable solution.
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What don said - hacksaw will follow thread. What you'd need to do is pick a spot in one of the threads and use a cold chisel to make the starter mark so the hacksaw blade has something to follow more easily - All you need is a decent quality hacksaw blade properly tensioned and a bit of patience. Bit of WD-40 can help but if you do it properly - LET THE WEIGHT OF THE SAW DO THE WORK - Much like we say that the bevel of your gouge needs to ride the wood, but the wood shouldn't know it. I have cut through 1-1/2 inch diameter small engine crankshafts with ease using a hacksaw with no problems (and making a square cut on a round shaft to boot) and small engine crankshafts are a bit harder than your typical all-thread rod. Trying to use hacksaw in a lathe - at any speed - is still too fast and heats the blade (and the metal) you'll quickly dull your hacksaw teeth that way with too much pressure, too much heat or too much speed. Bandsaw blades of course are designed to be used on a bandsaw - Hacksaw blades are designed to be used by hand.. not in machinery...
I needed something similar, but fortunately, I have and old South Bend 9A metal lathe, so I made my own.
What I wanted was a way to get the faceplate for my Jet 1221VS centered more accurately than by eye. The tool I made has a hole in the center that a sharpened nail fits smoothly in and a knurled bit on the other end. I screw the tool in from the headstock end, slide in the nail down the center hole, get it located at the marked center of the blank, then tap the nail in a bit to hold it in place while I put in the screws. The tool unscrews out of the back of the faceplate, and the plate is mounted right in the middle.
Lance Mirrer
AKA "taxman"
While this is questionable as a safe practice, if you are going to try;
1. instead of lathe running in reverse, turn the blade around
2. a starting manual cut once around the bolt serves as a adequate path once spinning.
3. I use dual nuts to hold the bolt solid and cut with a hand held electric bandsaw. something strong to hold the bolt, will also allow to be cut on a regular bandsaw with metal cutting blade.
Slow and careful!!!!
Good luck
1. instead of lathe running in reverse, turn the blade around
2. a starting manual cut once around the bolt serves as a adequate path once spinning.
3. I use dual nuts to hold the bolt solid and cut with a hand held electric bandsaw. something strong to hold the bolt, will also allow to be cut on a regular bandsaw with metal cutting blade.
Slow and careful!!!!
Good luck
I found such a bolt at several places, a Menard's store (Wisconsin), or a Theisen store. Also found matching washers and bolts to match. Good luck.
All I see on the Menards' web site is one bolt that is 7 TPI and 3" long. Did you find an 8 TPI at your local store? How long?
I frequently do bandsaw work on a workpiece after the initial turning. For these operations I will often attach a template to the bottom of the chuck (which is still holding the workpiece). I have been successful so far by using my 'live center to chuck' adapter as a substitute bolt. It is just long enough for two and a quarter threads to engage the chuck. And that's good enough holding to snug up the template and keep it from moving. It is not a stressed connection, but a couple of more threads would be welcome.
Here are a few pictures to illustrate:
The walnut square is a spacer to accommodate the height of the chuck's insert. You'll notice that the flange has two flats so it will take a wrench or channel lock pliers. I can't remember what company made this adapter, and I don't see it on the net--I only find the Oneway adapter, which appears a tad shorter and doesn't have flats on the flange.
If I'm able to find a suitable bolt, the second problem I'd have to solve is how to reduce the height of the bolt's head. At this diameter, I'm seeing bolts with heads that are 3/4". My adapter's flange is 5/16" which is near ideal to fit in the recess in the plywood template. Maybe the right answer is to find a machine shop that can cut down the bolt head and cut the length. If I could find the maker of the adapter I could see if they could make a custom one that's a bit longer. And then again, I do have something that works and is already paid for.
The chuck adapter has a 3/4-10 female thread so you can use a 3/4 - 10 bolt to hold the adapter on to the plywood template leaving the entire thread to screw the chuck onto. The hole in the template should be drilled 3/4" on the chuck side with a counter bore on the other to accommodate the bolt head. The head of the 3/4-10 bolt could be cut down ( with a sharp hacksaw) to about 1/8" to minimize the depth of the counterbore for a more rigid mounting.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I still have a piece of threaded rod 1 1/4" x8. I can probably make what you need if you will send me a drawing.
Buy the one from McMaster and cut it down. Find a friend with a cut off tool. I got one from HF for about $10.00 on sale and with a few cut off wheels it should go quickly.
As I age I find that I do not like to saw steel bars by hand so I got one and it comes in handy and at that price it's worth it for very occasional use.
Use it carefully as it sends bits of steel and abrasive all over.
The 1 1/4"-7 bolt is a structural steel construction bolt.
As I age I find that I do not like to saw steel bars by hand so I got one and it comes in handy and at that price it's worth it for very occasional use.
Use it carefully as it sends bits of steel and abrasive all over.
The 1 1/4"-7 bolt is a structural steel construction bolt.
It will if you start the hacksaw with the lathe shut off. The threads aren't that deep. I assumed I didn't need to include every single step. My reply does not include every detail of the process. Also if you use a tooth count on the blade that is appropriate for 1 1/4" thick steel, and use lube, there should not have an issue. Of course you need to be careful and use your own judgement. In my shop I just go to the steel cutting miter saw that has a vise.
Dave Landers
Beta Tester
Mark, I also do bandsaw work on pieces held in a chuck. Difference is my jig holds the chuck horizontally, so I don't have the thickness-of-the-bolt-head problem.
Even so, just as something to consider... I use a 1"x8 bolt, about 1" long or so (fairly easy to find - maybe not at hardware store or big-box, but at a farm store usually) thru a 1"hole in plywood, and have a 1" to 1 1/4" spindle adapter that I use as a nut to hold the bolt on the plywood. Then I screw the chuck onto the adapter.
You'd still have to modify your jig (or the bolt head) to accommodate something like this.
And it would probably raise the chuck higher than you currently have it.
But I thought I'd throw it out there - since for me, jig design is often not just solving the problem, but adapting to what material you can find to work with.
Even so, just as something to consider... I use a 1"x8 bolt, about 1" long or so (fairly easy to find - maybe not at hardware store or big-box, but at a farm store usually) thru a 1"hole in plywood, and have a 1" to 1 1/4" spindle adapter that I use as a nut to hold the bolt on the plywood. Then I screw the chuck onto the adapter.
You'd still have to modify your jig (or the bolt head) to accommodate something like this.
And it would probably raise the chuck higher than you currently have it.
But I thought I'd throw it out there - since for me, jig design is often not just solving the problem, but adapting to what material you can find to work with.
I went through the same search as you when I turned a half dozen wave bowls and did a (virtual) demo for our club back in 2021. I had to go back to my video to remember how I solved the problem. If you don't have one, get a reverse chuck adaptor. I already had one of these and I use it all the time. Didn't think of it until I had spent a ridiculous amount of time searching the web. there are a couple other obstacles, but watch the video clip from my demo. wave bowl jig tip The video is unlisted as is my channel. I'll leave it up for a couple weeks. after that someone can contact me for it if they are interested.
That's clever thinking, guys, thanks! I have to explore this idea.
You are a generous gentlemen and a scholar, John. Let me explore the ideas above, first, if only to try to solve the problem with material I have at hand.
But I may be coming back to you in a few weeks with a sad look and a plaintiff voice.
Bill, Our club also features a self-nominated Safety Officer of the Month. Not to brag, but I think I have been the safety officer more often than anyone else. I think maybe the other folks are a little more shy about admitting a bone-headed play. I actually do think it's a light hearted way to keep something serious in mind.That sounds like something that I tried once. And, I learned the hard way not to do that. The problem is the same if you use a parting tool without widening the kerf. I was running the lathe in reverse. The saw blade got pinched in the kerf and jerked me into the lathe. Luckily, the saw came loose and was thrown away from me. If the saw hadn't come loose, it would continued around and hit me in the chest or face. And that would have really hurt.
All of this happened in the blink of an eye and the show was over before I knew what had happened. Much faster than human reflexes. I recollect that the lathe speed was as slow as the Robust AB will go (somewhere between 30 and 50 RPM).
I am the Safety Officer Emeritus of the Woodturners of North Texas and an authority on the wrong way to do things.
Our local public library offers free 3-D printing services. I just uploaded that file for printing. Hopefully in a couple of weeks I'll have a nice new face plate centering tool! Thanks for the link, Asher.I printed this centering tool. Works great.
Printables
www.printables.com
You’re getting lots of advice from all directions. Here’s my $.02. I find if I’m cutting a bolt or piece of allthread, it helps to thread a nut onto it first and then use it as a die to help bring the cut threads into alignment after the cut has been made. Work it back and forth without coming off the cut bolt until it turns fairly easily. This is easier than trying to thread on a nut from off the bolt after the piece has been cut.
To make that work you would need to cut all the way around so you might as well just cut it without turning it. I have cut off rounds on my LaBlond lathe but I always make a starting groove all the around the piece then use a hacksaw or my portable bandsaw.
I had a similar thought. If I buy a bolt, I'll buy a nut, too.
It also occurred to me that a nut positioned at the cut line could be used to help guide the hack saw blade.
My apologies. to you. I reacted too quickly without double checking my bolts. I have bolts that are 1 inch diameter by 8 tpi, 4 inches long, matching the headstock threads. I bought them at Theisens, and I do not know if they have 1 1/4 inch bolts. I do remember our local store had an impressive selection of larger bolts, washers, and nuts in the larger sizes. I did an internet search for you bolt size and appreciate your challenge, Again my apologies if I gave you false hope and sent you on a fruitless quest.
Your efforts are still appreciated.
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My engineering background in stability and control tells me this might be easier said than done. The reason is that you want to control the position (of the saw) by reacting to the force that is pushing the saw back towards you. Human response time is too slow to stay in sync.
Holy crap….with the effort and time in this thread, I could have manually cut ten pieces with a hacksaw and the bolt/stud in a vise - it’s just not that difficult. Use a stud and a nut to make the fixture. It’s a straight-forward concept.
Tim
Tim
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This is one of those scenarios where 3D printing can be very useful. For about $0.20 you can print such an adapter. This one isn't designed with your application in mind, but would probably work. https://www.printables.com/model/531756-34-10f-to-125-8m-adapter-woodturning
The "chuck mount" looks to be the best possible solution as it could be mounted to the plywood without any large holes or counterbore. The holes in the top I am assuming go all the way through so a couple of flat head machine screws going into tee nuts in the plywood should easily hold it rigidly in place.
I will give that some thought. It's necessary to center the chuck exactly on the template. Could use a Forstner to make shallow recess for the chuck mount's flange to fit into. There'd still be enough templat left for the two screws. They're out of stock till October so I can mull that a bit.
Right now, following Don's (and Dave's) earlier idea, I was able to pick up some 3/4-10 scews locally. I have to look at how much the head would need to be ground down.
Right now, following Don's (and Dave's) earlier idea, I was able to pick up some 3/4-10 scews locally. I have to look at how much the head would need to be ground down.