What lathe should I buy?

[Kent Reisdorph]

Can do that with a sliding headstock, too. But either needs some way to hold the tool rest that'll fit that large piece.

Ah, I see. I don't have either on my lathe.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

Can do that with a sliding headstock, too. But either needs some way to hold the tool rest that'll fit that large piece.

A pivoting headstock certainly has facilities to hold the tool rest with the headstock pivoted. But might not fit an oversized diameter piece. Would depend on the specifics of the lathe and available accessories.

I have a 3520 with sliding headstock. I can slide it almost to the end, swing away the tailstock, and still use the banjo in the ways as normal. That lets me stand at the end for hollowing or inside bowls. I like that, especially since I do quite a bit of hollow forms. If I want to do something really big (haven't wanted to do that yet) I have an extension that will mount low and get me a crazy 38" swing. If I need bigger than that (like all the way to the floor - probably never will do that) I'd need a floor-stand tool rest (that'd be the same answer for someone with a pivoting headstock).

The main difference is with the pivoting headstock I can set it back to straight in less than a minute. I also don’t have to remove the tail stock. My lathe will turn 16” over the bed and 39” outboard and can be switched back and forth very quickly. I rotate the headstock around 20 degrees and can stand in front of a bowl or hollow form to hollow them. I can also use my hollowing system while it is rotated out. I have never used a sliding headstock off the end but the pivoting headstock just seems like it would be faster and easier.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

I had a 12” lathe and wanted to turn larger. I went to a 16” Record Power Envoy. I love it. I have had it around two years and had zero problems.

 

[Dean Center]

I'll be selling 5 of my lathes in May!

Well there's your answer! Wait til May and go buy one of Bill's used lathes.

 

[Dave Landers]

The main difference is with the pivoting headstock I can set it back to straight in less than a minute. I also don’t have to remove the tail stock. My lathe will turn 16” over the bed and 39” outboard and can be switched back and forth very quickly. I rotate the headstock around 20 degrees and can stand in front of a bowl or hollow form to hollow them. I can also use my hollowing system while it is rotated out. I have never used a sliding headstock off the end but the pivoting headstock just seems like it would be faster and easier.

Good to know. I'm not in the market for a new lathe of any kind, but nice to know the capability of things, cause ya never know when you'll need to know...

I seem to recall that when Jet upgraded the 1642 (to the 1640 I think it is), it had a pivoting headstock (I think it maybe slid too? not sure - that would be weird). But I remember being at Woodcraft for our club meeting when it came out, and several of us were quite unimpressed with the slop in the headstock alignment. And it wasn't long before Jet redid it and now it just slides. That 5-minute look tainted my impression of pivoting headstocks. Ya'll are sorta helping me get over that, although I still like my slider.

 

[hockenbery]

But I remember being at Woodcraft for our club meeting when it came out, and several of us were quite unimpressed with the slop in the headstock alignment. And it wasn't long before Jet redid it and now it just slides. That 5-minute look tainted my impression of pivoting headstocks. Ya'll are sorta helping me get over that, although I still like my slider.

They had that model 1640 at one of the AAW symposiums. That one seemed to lock true for me.
The also had 2 1840s. One was a DVR model with a speed dial that you could push in to fine adjust. After playing with it, I asked them how they could sell powermatics with that 1840 DVR on the market. They never mass marketed the DVR model. I think they sold a few. It probably had more to do with kinks they couldn’t work out than fear of not selling any powermatics, but it was a sweet machine.

 

[William Rogers]

One thing often overlooked it the spindle height. I did that on my previous lathe and it did not have adjustable height. It was really too low and I did end up with back issues. I could have bought “risers” or tried to shim up the lathe. but didn’t like either option. There is some rule that the spindle height should be at your elbow. Not sure where that came from and not challenging it, but I prefer the spindle height to be somewhat above my elbow. Just a more comfortable for me. Regardless of what lathe you decide on, check the spindle height and if you can adjust the height.

 

[Doug Freeman]

bit.... Is there any advantage to a pivoting headstock vs a sliding headstock? Only one I can think of is if you are tight on space,

Not having to remove/replace the TS, and whatever one has laying on the bed, to slide the HS down. This applies for any time one wants a piece “off the bed” - bowl hollowing, sanding, finish application, buffing - that can be a lot TS wrestling, depending how one processes work. Yes some lathes have TS swing-a-ways, typically expensive lathes with expensive accessories.

Larger swing capability - I can go as large as 29” if desired for the few pieces I might make that exceed the 16” swing.

Space - to turn work exceeding the swing, either a floor standing rest or lower bed extension is required. A lathe mounted outboard rest that tucks away saves a lot of space.

Another - piece wont clear the banjo, instead of dismounting, swing the piece off the bed, move the banjo, swing the piece back in.

 

[robo hippy]

Well, for sure, the early pivoting headstock models were pretty bad, but with more 'experience', they have gotten pretty good. My Vicmark 240 pivots to 30 degrees, and can use the standard banjo that comes with the lathe. I can also pivot it to 90 degrees, and can turn down to the floor. That outboard tool rest does work, but I would not consider it good for production work. Mostly because you have to move the whole thing a number of times to turn any bowl, both when turning the outside and the inside. The pivot set up has a pin that inserts to lock it spot on in all 3 settings, long bed, 30, and 90 degrees. No fussing around to get it back into perfect alignment. Both sliding and pivoting headstocks seem to work very well, and allow you to turn bowls in short bed set up. That is why I got my first sliding headstock lathe, a 3520A.

robo hippy

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

I'm going to tack onto this thread with a question.

Running a 220v line to my garage will cost more than it is worth. There are a number of lathes in the $2000-2500 range that are 1.5 HP 110v. Except for 2 and 3 HP motors, is there any other advantage to 220 vs. 110?

Currently I turn bowls up to 10" finished. I have a Wen midi lathe with 12" swing currently. They don't list HP but I'll bet it's around 3/4 HP. Maybe less. The largest bowls I would intend to make would be 14" give or take. So my actual minimum need is a 15 or 16" swing.

I could run a 220v extension cord if a 110v lathe is considered too weak.

Edit: I don't have any particular budget. For my needs, I don't think I'll need to go over $4k in any case.

 

[John Vaeth]

I was asking the same question when I started a few years ago. An experienced member in our local woodturning club jokingly said "Get a midi-lathe, you'll live longer." Big, powerful lathes CAN be more dangerous due to the size and weight of what you can put on them. So I bought a Rikon midi 70-220VSR and loved it. Great machine and I had zero problems with it. I even added the extension bed to do longer spindle work. But after only a few months, I was truly addicted to turning and wanted to upgrade to a big boy. I was fortunate to be able to buy a Robust as a retirement gift to myself. The good news was I sold the Rikon for just what I paid for it. Good lathes do hold their value so resale is something to consider. To avoid frustration, I'd stay away from HF or an old ShopSmith. I'm seen many good used lathes on Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, it's been a while since that electrical class... (30 years?)

Voltage x amps = watts.

746 watts = 1 horsepower.

Come on, memory... it is not suggested to run a circuit continuously at more than about 75% of it's capacity.

A circuit of 120v x 15a = 1800 watts available before you start flirting with tripping the breaker. That will handle a 1hp motor all day long, 1.5hp should be fine, too. 2hp, about 1500 watts, that should be the only thing running on that 15 amp circuit. If it's a 20 amp, 120 volt circuit, the 2400 watts available should be fine, mathematically.

If I recall, motors run better at higher voltage and lower amperage vs. lower voltage drawing higher amperage. Why, I don't recall. Not that your lathe motor runs continuously all day, every day, it may not be as much of a design concern.

Always avoid extension cords in the workshop. And everywhere else. I won't bore everyone with the reasons. An electrician's services cost you only once. Enjoy the new lathe!

 

[Dave Landers]

I'm going to tack onto this thread with a question.

Running a 220v line to my garage will cost more than it is worth. There are a number of lathes in the $2000-2500 range that are 1.5 HP 110v. Except for 2 and 3 HP motors, is there any other advantage to 220 vs. 110?

Currently I turn bowls up to 10" finished. I have a Wen midi lathe with 12" swing currently. They don't list HP but I'll bet it's around 3/4 HP. Maybe less. The largest bowls I would intend to make would be 14" give or take. So my actual minimum need is a 15 or 16" swing.

I could run a 220v extension cord if a 110v lathe is considered too weak.

Edit: I don't have any particular budget. For my needs, I don't think I'll need to go over $4k in any case.

A 110v lathe, 1 or 1.5 hp is plenty for most turners. I think, like @Steve Tiedman said, a 15A circuit should handle it ok. As an example, I have an older 110v Jet 1642EVS, 1.5hp and is ok on a 15A circuit.
If you happen to have a 20A circuit you might be happier, considering that most of us plug in not only a lathe, but lights and sanders and vacuum pumps and air compressors and more lights and whatever else we can think of.... But running a new 20A 110 would not cost much less than running 220.
Also note that many/most/some VFDs make GFCI breakers unhappy. In my new shop, the electrician had to put in GFCI for code. Jet wouldn't run at all - popped the breaker immediately, every time (I swapped that breaker for a regular one after inspection).

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

I have to agree with Dave it would not cost that much to put a homerun to lathe . Wire, breaker and time. You might even find a electrician at your turning club to help do that. I have a friend who helped me get the 220 in shop for compressor, DC and lathe. Wire have gone up tremendously since. Most of the circuits in my shop are 20 amp.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

I was asking the same question when I started a few years ago. An experienced member in our local woodturning club jokingly said "Get a midi-lathe, you'll live longer." Big, powerful lathes CAN be more dangerous due to the size and weight of what you can put on them. So I bought a Rikon midi 70-220VSR and loved it. Great machine and I had zero problems with it. I even added the extension bed to do longer spindle work. But after only a few months, I was truly addicted to turning and wanted to upgrade to a big boy. I was fortunate to be able to buy a Robust as a retirement gift to myself. The good news was I sold the Rikon for just what I paid for it. Good lathes do hold their value so resale is something to consider. To avoid frustration, I'd stay away from HF or an old ShopSmith. I'm seen many good used lathes on Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist.

I'm looking at Jet, Nova, Harvey, et al. I'd be OK with a Rikon, too (I have other Rikon tools and have been happy with them).

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

A 110v lathe, 1 or 1.5 hp is plenty for most turners. I think, like @Steve Tiedman said, a 15A circuit should handle it ok. As an example, I have an older 110v Jet 1642EVS, 1.5hp and is ok on a 15A circuit.
If you happen to have a 20A circuit you might be happier, considering that most of us plug in not only a lathe, but lights and sanders and vacuum pumps and air compressors and more lights and whatever else we can think of.... But running a new 20A 110 would not cost much less than running 220.
Also note that many/most/some VFDs make GFCI breakers unhappy. In my new shop, the electrician had to put in GFCI for code. Jet wouldn't run at all - popped the breaker immediately, every time (I swapped that breaker for a regular one after inspection).

Thanks, Dave. My electrical panel is in an upstairs bonus room at the opposite end of the house. I asked an electrician about installing a 220 plug right at the breaker box for a tanning bed. The rough quote I got was $700-900 for a 220 plug and 3 feet of wire. I was rolling my eyes on the inside. So I'm sure they would quote $2k to run it to the garage. And here I thought Tennessee would be cheaper than Vegas.

 

[Doug Freeman]

The strongest motor @ 120V is the Nova DVR that comes in the Neptune, Galaxi, Orion, and Nebula. I have the Galaxi. I dont have experience with the Harvey DC lathes/motors but I do with vfd lathes. Particularly below 800-1000 rpm there is a significant difference. Ibelieve it to be due to efficiency of the switched reluctance motor vs the 1 to 3p conversion and losses that occur with vfd.

 

[Robert Dinsmore]

You might want to connect with Mike Peace. He lives just north of Atlanta and is familiar with different turning clubs in the region. He might know of a good used lathe for sale. He offers private instruction, which is one of the best ways to jump start your woodturning hobby. He has more than 500 videos on his YouTube channel, and several of them are about deciding what lathe to buy. His # is 770-362-4308.

Yes, he was who I took the lessons from. Wonderful person, and a great teacher.

 

[Kurt Manley]

I'm going to tack onto this thread with a question.

Running a 220v line to my garage will cost more than it is worth. There are a number of lathes in the $2000-2500 range that are 1.5 HP 110v. Except for 2 and 3 HP motors, is there any other advantage to 220 vs. 110?

Currently I turn bowls up to 10" finished. I have a Wen midi lathe with 12" swing currently. They don't list HP but I'll bet it's around 3/4 HP. Maybe less. The largest bowls I would intend to make would be 14" give or take. So my actual minimum need is a 15 or 16" swing.

I could run a 220v extension cord if a 110v lathe is considered too weak.

Edit: I don't have any particular budget. For my needs, I don't think I'll need to go over $4k in any case.

I have the same lathe as Dave, Jet 1642, and it works great for me so far. No additional wiring needed and it's plenty big and powerful enough for me. There's always something better but I am very happy.

 

[hockenbery]

Running a 220v line to my garage will cost more than it is worth. There are a number of lathes in the $2000-2500 range that are 1.5 HP 110v. Except for 2 and 3 HP motors, is there any other advantage to 220 vs. 110?

The value of 220 is not just opening up choices of lathes.

My bandsaw is 220, my compressor is 220, 2 lathes are 220, 2 are 110, dust collector is 220

Although rarely used - Also have a table saw that is 220, planer is 220

Don’t have an electric car yet. Most of the home chargers are 220.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

Thanks, Dave. My electrical panel is in an upstairs bonus room at the opposite end of the house. I asked an electrician about installing a 220 plug right at the breaker box for a tanning bed. The rough quote I got was $700-900 for a 220 plug and 3 feet of wire. I was rolling my eyes on the inside. So I'm sure they would quote $2k to run it to the garage. And here I thought Tennessee would be cheaper than Vegas.

$700-900, for... $50 of supplies, an hour of time, and a permit? Keep calling around. If they advertise on billboards, TV, and city busses, don't call them. If they are part of a franchise, don't call. There'll be a local one-person electrical shop doing little residential stuff that will be much more reasonably priced. And if having to cable across the whole house, make it worth the effort and install a sub-panel in the garage for multiple circuits.

 

[Dean Center]

Thanks, Dave. My electrical panel is in an upstairs bonus room at the opposite end of the house. I asked an electrician about installing a 220 plug right at the breaker box for a tanning bed. The rough quote I got was $700-900 for a 220 plug and 3 feet of wire. I was rolling my eyes on the inside.

You need to find an electrician who doesn't owe his bookie so much money.

 

[Brian Gustin]

If you have local Vo-tech or trade school, might be worth inquiring there if one of the classes might want to do an install as described by Steve above - If your 200 amp service panel has enough room for a 240 breaker (If you do not use an electric range or electric dryer, you likely may have capacity) you can run a 60 amp run from there out to the shop and do a sub-panel (Its what we did, but then I was Vo-Tech student at the time so we did it ourselves - buried cable in a 18 inch deep trench from house to garage) That way you can use the sub panel to run separate 15 amp light runs, a couple 20 amp outlet runs, a bit of space for a couple dedicated 20 amp circuits, and a 20 amp 240V circuit to lathe would be easy. The more technical part of it comes in when figuring how much of a total continuous load may be going at once (5- 20 amp and 2 - 15 amp circuits plus 30 amp 240V circuit on my 60 amp sub panel - just can't be running everything at once!) That's where your local Vo-Tech or Trade School class may come in handy - Often they may work for just the cost of material (so as to gain experience for the students)

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

If you have local Vo-tech or trade school, might be worth inquiring there if one of the classes might want to do an install as described by Steve above - If your 200 amp service panel has enough room for a 240 breaker (If you do not use an electric range or electric dryer, you likely may have capacity) you can run a 60 amp run from there out to the shop and do a sub-panel (Its what we did, but then I was Vo-Tech student at the time so we did it ourselves - buried cable in a 18 inch deep trench from house to garage) That way you can use the sub panel to run separate 15 amp light runs, a couple 20 amp outlet runs, a bit of space for a couple dedicated 20 amp circuits, and a 20 amp 240V circuit to lathe would be easy. The more technical part of it comes in when figuring how much of a total continuous load may be going at once (5- 20 amp and 2 - 15 amp circuits plus 30 amp 240V circuit on my 60 amp sub panel - just can't be running everything at once!) That's where your local Vo-Tech or Trade School class may come in handy - Often they may work for just the cost of material (so as to gain experience for the students)

Good info, Brian.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

$700-900, for... $50 of supplies, an hour of time, and a permit? Keep calling around. If they advertise on billboards, TV, and city busses, don't call them. If they are part of a franchise, don't call. There'll be a local one-person electrical shop doing little residential stuff that will be much more reasonably priced. And if having to cable across the whole house, make it worth the effort and install a sub-panel in the garage for multiple circuits.

That's exactly what I'm going to do. The company I got the quote from is Lee Company, a big franchise here.

They also quoted me $20k for a 2-unit heat pump.

 

[Randy Heinemann]

While you never really know what lathe to buy, especially when you're starting out, I have found that what I envisioned turning isn't what I ended up turning. I always thought it would be a great big deal to turn 14" or 16" bowls, but found that turning bowls and hollow forms in the 6"-10" range is very relaxing, easy to manage on most lathes of the size you're talking about, and gives (me at least) a much wider range of blanks to choose from. I've put a 16" blank on my lathe and, while the lathe has enough weight and stability to handle it, it's much more difficult job and takes some of the relaxation and fun away because I'm more concerned about managing a blank that size in a safe way. Just something to think about. I only have experience with a midi and my current lathe so I wouldn't even attempt to give you input on a brand.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

While you never really know what lathe to buy, especially when you're starting out, I have found that what I envisioned turning isn't what I ended up turning. I always thought it would be a great big deal to turn 14" or 16" bowls, but found that turning bowls and hollow forms in the 6"-10" range is very relaxing, easy to manage on most lathes of the size you're talking about, and gives (me at least) a much wider range of blanks to choose from. I've put a 16" blank on my lathe and, while the lathe has enough weight and stability to handle it, it's much more difficult job and takes some of the relaxation and fun away because I'm more concerned about managing a blank that size in a safe way. Just something to think about. I only have experience with a midi and my current lathe so I wouldn't even attempt to give you input on a brand.

Amen, Randy.

 

[Robert Dinsmore]

While you never really know what lathe to buy, especially when you're starting out, I have found that what I envisioned turning isn't what I ended up turning. I always thought it would be a great big deal to turn 14" or 16" bowls, but found that turning bowls and hollow forms in the 6"-10" range is very relaxing, easy to manage on most lathes of the size you're talking about, and gives (me at least) a much wider range of blanks to choose from. I've put a 16" blank on my lathe and, while the lathe has enough weight and stability to handle it, it's much more difficult job and takes some of the relaxation and fun away because I'm more concerned about managing a blank that size in a safe way. Just something to think about. I only have experience with a midi and my current lathe so I wouldn't even attempt to give you input on a brand.

I said 12-14 inches because I don't think I'd ever do anything bigger than this. My wife's largest bowl is 12 1/2 inches. I'd like get to the point where I could make her a nice fruit bowl about that size. I don't think I'd want to make a bowl bigger than that - I don't know what you would use it for. Right now I'm gravitating towards a 14 inch lathe like the Record power coronet harold or the rikon 70-1420. They are reasonably priced and likely big enough for my needs for many years. One thing that does suprise me though is that they (and most lathes it seems) use a bolt pressing against the tool post to hold it in place. It seems to me that a pinch mechanism would be more elligant and less likely to mar th the tool post... The locking mechanism on the tailstock quill seems to be the same...

 

[rkriet]

One thing that does suprise me though is that they (and most lathes it seems) use a bolt pressing against the tool post to hold it in place. It seems to me that a pinch mechanism would be more elligant and less likely to mar th the tool post... The locking mechanism on the tailstock quill seems to be the same...

I agree with you regarding the locking mechanism for the tool rest post. The Powermatic 1420 has a pinch mechanism just as you suggest.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

I've never found the simple threaded bolt clampdown function of toolrests and tailstock quills to be an issue. It takes little pressure for it to lock down (no hard torque needed, just twist it snug), and then those close tolerance slip fits provide a lot of surface for the post and quill to bear against, keeping them locked in position. Not elegant, but they are effective.

 

[Dave Landers]

One thing that does suprise me though is that they (and most lathes it seems) use a bolt pressing against the tool post to hold it in place. It seems to me that a pinch mechanism would be more elligant and less likely to mar th the tool post.

I haven't had any problems with the bolt "set screw" marring the tool rest post (PM 3520B / Robust and Steve Sinner tool rests). But I do find that I have to lean on it sometimes to get it to hold satisfactorily.

 

[robo hippy]

When I first set up my wood shop, for flat work back then, EVERY single book I read said that any motor, 1 hp and above, needs to run on 220. I have turned on the Jet 16 inch lathes, both 120 and 220. The 220 is by far the better lathe. Do you need it? Well, maybe not, but I was doing shows and the extra power really helped, especially with coring.

As said above, the Novar DVR motors have surprising power/torque for a small sized motor.

robo hippy

 

[hockenbery]

I have to lean on it sometimes to get it to hold satisfactorily.

I give the lock handle a little double tap with the tool handle.
That lock the tool post quite well. Had the same lock on several lathes

 

[Odie]

I always find these threads interesting.

My 32 year old 16" swing Australian Woodfast lathe is still alive and well. It was purchased new from CSUSA in 1992. After replacing bearings, and upgrading to variable speed, I find it to do almost everything I want a lathe to do. If I end up keeping it for the remainder of my life, I feel it is, and will have been a great lathe for my purposes. (My interests are traditional bowl turning, and nothing else.)

The exceptions to this would be:

.....a rotating headstock

.....a 20" swing

I am aware of the few lathes that have a rotating headstock, but there is always something that keeps me from buying one of them. I'm always on the lookout for new offerings that might be more perfect for my particular needs, though. It appears that more and more, the value of a rotating headstock is becoming more prominent in the general thinking of lathe turners, and from my perspective, this is a very good thing.

-o-

 

[Dennis Weiner]

Keeping nearer to your budget, the Langua Revo 15 or 18 is really a nice lathe for what you want to do. I own a Oneway 2436 but would have no problem if I had to downsize selecting languna.

 

[Randy Heinemann]

I said 12-14 inches because I don't think I'd ever do anything bigger than this. My wife's largest bowl is 12 1/2 inches. I'd like get to the point where I could make her a nice fruit bowl about that size. I don't think I'd want to make a bowl bigger than that - I don't know what you would use it for. Right now I'm gravitating towards a 14 inch lathe like the Record power coronet harold or the rikon 70-1420. They are reasonably priced and likely big enough for my needs for many years. One thing that does suprise me though is that they (and most lathes it seems) use a bolt pressing against the tool post to hold it in place. It seems to me that a pinch mechanism would be more elligant and less likely to mar th the tool post... The locking mechanism on the tailstock quill seems to be the same...

Just saw that Highland Woodworking has Record lathes on sale. I don't know how their prices compare to others. I think the 18" lathe was $2,399 and the 16" Record Coronet was $2,199. There isn't enough difference in weight to make a difference so the 16" would serve your needs. Also, the head rotates to give you capacity to do outboard turning to a much larger diameter. I would say that, given these lathes weight about 310 - 320 pounds, you would need to add some weight for larger turnings and/or turnings where the blank isn't balanced to begin with. I think the quoted price includes the legs also; good or bad depending on whether you intended to mount it on your own bench.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

Just saw that Highland Woodworking has Record lathes on sale. I don't know how their prices compare to others. I think the 18" lathe was $2,399 and the 16" Record Coronet was $2,199. There isn't enough difference in weight to make a difference so the 16" would serve your needs. Also, the head rotates to give you capacity to do outboard turning to a much larger diameter. I would say that, given these lathes weight about 310 - 320 pounds, you would need to add some weight for larger turnings and/or turnings where the blank isn't balanced to begin with. I think the quoted price includes the legs also; good or bad depending on whether you intended to mount it on your own bench.

Yes the 16” and 18” include the legs. I have had the 16” for a couple of years now and am very happy with it. I have put some big chunks on the lathe and have not needed to add any weight to the lathe. The lathe is very smooth and quiet. I love the pivoting headstock. I have rotated it a few times for things that were too big to fit over the bed.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

One thing often overlooked it the spindle height. I did that on my previous lathe and it did not have adjustable height. It was really too low and I did end up with back issues. I could have bought “risers” or tried to shim up the lathe. but didn’t like either option. There is some rule that the spindle height should be at your elbow. Not sure where that came from and not challenging it, but I prefer the spindle height to be somewhat above my elbow. Just a more comfortable for me. Regardless of what lathe you decide on, check the spindle height and if you can adjust the height.

Hi William. I agree with your height preference. Besides, what is "elbow high"? I've refined it for myself- it means the height of the inside 90 degree bend of my elbow with my forearm parallel to the floor. For me, it allows me to stand more upright (I have a bit of a slouching habit at the lathe) and keep my back comfy, but it is also about the maximum height that still allows for proper tool movement and orientation to the wood. Any higher, for me, and the cutting process runs amuck.

For a bench or homemade stand mounted lathe, that height can be custom made. For a pre-made stand, I don't have an issue using hardwood blocks (oak, or better) to increase the spindle height.

 

[Charles Cadenhead]

Keeping nearer to your budget, the Langua Revo 15 or 18 is really a nice lathe for what you want to do. I own a Oneway 2436 but would have no problem if I had to downsize selecting languna.

I can't recommend any Laguna lathe based on their customer service and build quality. My 12/16 has been fine for my needs, the lathe checked most of the boxes for features I was looking for, but in my opinion it's just not reliable. I'm seriously think about selling it and getting another lathe.

 

[Bill Alston]

I’ve got a version of this lathe in the UK. I know it was sold in Canada in a fetching Green colour. Not sure if you can get them your side of the border though. They’re all made in Taiwan. It’s a very capable small lathe with a 14” bowl capacity. I bought the optional 10” bed extension.

Midi FU-350 Woodturning Lathe

A serious lathe with huge capabilities for a lathe with such a small footprint! Motor 0,75 kW / 1 HP (230 V) Centre…

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