What are your biggest costs?

[Isaac Litster]

I don't want this to be rude, but I am curious what costs the most for your woodturning. Almost everything costs money, but depending on the person, I would guess that where it goes would be slightly different. A lathe, bandsaw, chainsaw, and grinder can all cost a lot, but those are usually a single purchase. I am curious about a monthly or yearly basis; where do the most costs come from? I am thinking wood, finishes, sandpaper, saw blades, or other equipment that you just have to have.

Because I am still acquiring equipment, my costs are not only the "maintenance" costs. As for me, I don't buy a lot of wood, however, bandsaw blades and wood sealant are probably what I spend the most on recently, aside from more tools, which is the most overall. Sandpaper seems like a big cost, however, I use 2" pads from Amazon, which come by the hundreds.

 

[Brian Gustin]

MY Biggest cost is the Propane bill to keep shop heated in winter...

 

[Russell Nugent]

MY Biggest cost is the Propane bill to keep shop heated in winter...

Yep, my biggest cost is the electricity for keeping me warm in the Alberta winters.
Sandpaper is probably the biggest ongoing cost.
There are necessary and unnecessary costs.
You need a bowl gouge or 2. I really don't need 10.
Need a chainsaw since I don't buy wood and process my own. One would do it, so why do I have 4.
My bandsaw blade costs went way down once I started just chppong corners of blanks instead of rounding the.

 

[John K Jordan]

bandsaw blades and wood sealant are probably what I spend the most on recently, aside from more tools, which is the most overall. Sandpaper seems like a big cost, however, I use 2" pads from Amazon, which come by the hundreds.

Costs depend a lot on what one likes to turn, how one works, and the wood used. And the comfort level (I use electricity some of the year for climate control in my shop.)

If you want to reduce costs, consider sharpening your bandsaw blades. I use 1/2”x3tpi blades and sharpen them 3 or more times before replacing. I sharpen with a little disk on a Dremel.

And since I started smoothing with NRS and hand scrapers, my sandpaper costs have plummeted - I use more 400 and 600 grit paper than all the others combined. I quit power sanding with rotating disks years ago.

Another way to reduce costs is to turn smaller things: use less wood, need less sandpaper and finish…

Anchorseal is cheaper if you buy in quantity. I once had a 55-gal drum shipped from UC Coatings and sold a lot to friends for cost. When I run low on what I have left I’ll prob get a 5-gal can. I know some turning clubs order it by the drum and sell it to members for much cheaper than retail.

My weakness is buying tools and exotic wood. I cut and dry my own domestic turning blanks; the cost is mostly bandsaw blades and sealer. If I didn’t give away a lot of wood and tools maybe my costs would be less…

JKJ

 

[Isaac Litster]

Yep, my biggest cost is the electricity for keeping me warm in the Alberta winters.

MY Biggest cost is the Propane bill to keep shop heated in winter...

Our heater broke maybe two weeks ago. The shop was around 100 F, we walked in, and our glasses fogged up. Wood was cracking, and to avoid this, we turned it off. Now it is the same temperature as outside, freezing. I'm now curious how much of the power bill it normally is.

 

[Darryl Fective]

My shop started out in our basement, but after a friend/neighbor/club member passed away, I ended up buying the property his shop is on. In Michigan, a non-homestead property gets taxed at a higher rate, so property taxes is my biggest bill.

I heat our home with wood, so the truck and chainsaws aren't really turning expenses. I did install a minisplit in the shop and this is the first year that I've just kept the heat on all winter, so the electric bills are a little higher. ($100/month is well worth being able to step into a warm shop with warm tools anytime)

 

[Isaac Litster]

Costs depend a lot on what one likes to turn, how one works, and the wood used. And the comfort level (I use electricity some of the year for climate control in my shop.)

If you want to reduce costs, consider sharpening your bandsaw blades. I use 1/2”x3tpi blades and sharpen them 3 or more times before replacing. I sharpen with a little disk on a Dremel.

And since I started smoothing with NRS and hand scrapers, my sandpaper costs have plummeted - I use more 400 and 600 grit paper than all the others combined. I quit power sanding with rotating disks years ago.

Another way to reduce costs is to turn smaller things: use less wood, need less sandpaper and finish…

Anchorseal is cheaper if you buy in quantity. I once had a 55-gal drum shipped from UC Coatings and sold a lot to friends for cost. When I run low on what I have left I’ll prob get a 5-gal can. I know some turning clubs order it by the drum and sell it to members for much cheaper than retail.

My weakness is buying tools and exotic wood. I cut and dry my own domestic turning blanks; the cost is mostly bandsaw blades and sealer. If I didn’t give away a lot of wood and tools maybe my costs would be less…

JKJ

My dad and I sold at a local holiday bazaar and were able to purchase the Laguna 14bx, which arrived in January. Since then, we have gone through three blades and are waiting for the two weeks before Amazon ships the next couple. I think when I figure out what I can and can't do with it, without breaking blades, I can sharpen them and won't have to buy so many.

for smaller pieces, it is very difficult to sand, so I don't, or use very fine grit. I previously started at 320, but I just turned some extremely soft wood, so I used 80 grit for the first time.

Because the town is so small, everyone knows everyone. I can think of half a dozen people who would likely pitch in for a big drum of Anchorseal.

 

[Isaac Fisher]

Biggest cost by far is rent. I lease two adjacent commercial spaces totaling about 1500 square feet, plus a 400 square foot storage space for lumber. That comes to about $1500/month. All the equipment and tools in the shop are paid off, but I do occasionally have to replace or repair something, so I try to allow $200/month. I budget about $400/ month for glue, finish, blades, bits, tools, sandpaper, utility wood, etc. and $400/month for electric bill, licenses, insurance and such. All told, about $2400 each month to cover costs, and whatever is left is what I am able to pay myself.

Most of the wood that I use for turning is either given to me or is left over from furniture pieces, so turning is probably the most profitable part of my business. I don’t consider myself a professional turner, though, just a professional woodworker who does some turning as part of my work.

 

[Lou Jacobs]

After the initial investment in lathe and stationary tools, my biggest ongoing expense is on consumables like finishes and sanding supplies. I do enjoy buying a new tool now and then, and if I kept close track of expenses, tools would probably outweigh supplies. I spend nothing on wood. All is from the neighborhood, either I gather myself, or from arborists. BUT, a largest expense, maybe the biggest if I counted it among my turning costs, is a couple of classes I’ve attended at the John C. Campbell Folk School. One on hollowing with Trent Bosch and a year later on relief carving with Dixie Biggs. But if I were to categorize them on a household budget spreadsheet, I’d call them “vacation” or “mental health.” Come to think of it, all of my turning expenses could be classified as mental health!

 

[Greg Carles]

Costs,,hmmmm,, pepper mill mechanisms, sanding supplies, tools, wood ( I spend about $600-800 annually to buy 5X5 kiln dried pepper mill blanks out of walnut and hard maple).
I am constantly looking for free wood though.
I work out of my basement so no heating costs for me (Luckily)
I get 6 foot long blanks and cut them to 2 foot blanks then cut down from there depending on the length of mill I want.
I don't know how much the electric is to run all this equipment but it goes on the main house bill, wife hasn't said much yet ..LOL

 

[John K Jordan]

Since [January], we have gone through three blades and are waiting for the two weeks before Amazon ships the next couple. I think when I figure out what I can and can't do with it, without breaking blades, I can sharpen them and won't have to buy so many.

for smaller pieces, it is very difficult to sand, so I don't, or use very fine grit. I previously started at 320, but I just turned some extremely soft wood, so I used 80 grit for the first time.

If you are breaking blades, something is seriously wrong. I remember breaking only one blade in 25 years and that was due to a poor weld which the blade shop rewelded at no cost. I just changed a blade yesterday I’ve been using a lot since last November, one I’ve sharpened several times.

What saw do you use? What blades? What kinds of cuts do you make?

Things that can cause a blade to brake are poor weld, improper tension, guides, saw alignment, method of use, disasters from unsupported cuts, too much pressure from cutting with dull teeth, maybe more. Make sure the bandsaw is properly aligned and the blade runs true on both wheels. (Mark Duginski’s book may help) Make sure all guides, upper and lower, are set with the proper clearances. The most important thing is probably the blade tension. (I use a tension gauge to be sure - some of the popularly touted methods by influencers are worth what you pay or them.) Perhaps you can get someone to look at your saw and the way you work when you get a new blade. It’s difficult to guess without actually seeing your saw and how you use it. (Don’t make be drive up there - my wife would be ready to head out tomorrow, any excuse to travel!)

I’m fortunate to have a certified Lennox blade shop nearby so I usually can just drive over and have some made if they have the blade stock at hand. I usually get 6 or 8 at a time which last me for years with sharpening myself. If needed, I order a 100’ roll of the 1/2”x3tpi blade stock and the guy has blades ready in a few days. If I had to order the blades and they took a while to come, I’d definitely figure out why they are breaking and how to sharpen.

Also, I don’t understand at all why smaller pieces are more difficult to sand. I find the opposite. Harder wood like ebony is easier to sand but small things made from even very soft wood like basswood or cedar. should not be difficult. Perhaps you could get a mentor to watch and identify the problem. It all starts with the right razor sharp tools and good tool control. I have a few smaller things I show that needed no sanding - not bragging, just saying there may be other ways to work. What do you consider “small”, spindles, boxes?? (Was your wood soft from being punky? That can be fixed too.) Here again, having someone watch you turn might be a help.

JKJ

 

[Karl Best]

I'm at the point where I've finally got all of the tools and equipment that I need (lathe, bandsaw, dust extraction, chainsaws, lots of gouges and scrapers), so any expenses are for consumables (sandpaper and finishes). Of course as I try new things I need to get more tools: threading tools, pyrography, carving/engraving, piercing, etc.

I very seldom buy wood; I can usually get quantities when I hear chainsaws in the neighbourhood. Selling has its own expenses: craft fair table fees, tent, display fixtures, etc.

I really need to do something about heat in the shop for the winter so that I can work more than an hour or so at a time. When I semi-finished the shop I put in insulation but my only heat source is a kerosene bullet blaster. I'm considering a mini split but that works best when you heat the space full time, and I'm not out there every day.

 

[Richard Coers]

I do a month long holiday show at our nature center each year. All my turning costs are business expenses and my sales cover all that. Even the cost of my 2436. Not easy to have a business pay for my recreation too. Part of my business now has become selling off a wood collection of 52 years.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Like Karl said, I'm to a point where the big purchases have been made. And I have a good selection of tools and wood. So my continuing costs are not great. I'll buy a tool or accessory from time to time. I once figured out that running the 240V electric heater cost about a dollar an hour, when I'm in the shop.

 

[robo hippy]

Well, if you don't count the cost of my new shop, I spend as much on abrasives as anything. I have been using the blue discs from Vince Welch/WoodNWonders. They outlast anything else by far. Abrasives are not some thing to go cheap on. I have not been able to find the purple "Cubitron" stuff from 3M other than in 5 or 6 inch disc size. That is really supposed to outlast every thing else. I did pick up 2 new CBN wheels at the Oregon Woodturning Symposium this weekend from D Way/Jimmie Allen. He has a new maker for his wheels now. He told me he had way too many problems with the Chinses made wheels and some one from Ukraine (?) approached him, and he went with them. A whole different level of CBN wheels. $250 each. They only come with 5/8 arbors so they won't fit on my Baldor grinders. I do buy firewood for my wood stove every year, and go through 3 chords of oak each year for both house and shop, 3 chords each. No problems with air conditioning since it cools off a lot at night here. I do try to avoid "signature" tools since you pay way too much for the signature. Oh, this does not include my flat work area....

robo hippy

 

[Isaac Litster]

If you are breaking blades, something is seriously wrong. I remember breaking only one blade in 25 years and that was due to a poor weld which the blade shop rewelded at no cost. I just changed a blade yesterday I’ve been using a lot since last November, one I’ve sharpened several times.

What saw do you use? What blades? What kinds of cuts do you make?

Things that can cause a blade to brake are poor weld, improper tension, guides, saw alignment, method of use, disasters from unsupported cuts, too much pressure from cutting with dull teeth, maybe more. Make sure the bandsaw is properly aligned and the blade runs true on both wheels. (Mark Duginski’s book may help) Make sure all guides, upper and lower, are set with the proper clearances. The most important thing is probably the blade tension. (I use a tension gauge to be sure - some of the popularly touted methods by influencers are worth what you pay or them.) Perhaps you can get someone to look at your saw and the way you work when you get a new blade. It’s difficult to guess without actually seeing your saw and how you use it. (Don’t make be drive up there - my wife would be ready to head out tomorrow, any excuse to travel!)

I’m fortunate to have a certified Lennox blade shop nearby so I usually can just drive over and have some made if they have the blade stock at hand. I usually get 6 or 8 at a time which last me for years with sharpening myself. If needed, I order a 100’ roll of the 1/2”x3tpi blade stock and the guy has blades ready in a few days. If I had to order the blades and they took a while to come, I’d definitely figure out why they are breaking and how to sharpen.

Also, I don’t understand at all why smaller pieces are more difficult to sand. I find the opposite. Harder wood like ebony is easier to sand but small things made from even very soft wood like basswood or cedar. should not be difficult. Perhaps you could get a mentor to watch and identify the problem. It all starts with the right razor sharp tools and good tool control. I have a few smaller things I show that needed no sanding - not bragging, just saying there may be other ways to work. What do you consider “small”, spindles, boxes?? (Was your wood soft from being punky? That can be fixed too.) Here again, having someone watch you turn might be a help.

JKJ

I've broken three blades. The first was the day that we got the saw, and the tension was off, I believe. The second one was actually my dad. He hit a nail, and the blade didn't break but cut/burns circles. The third one began jumping forward on a part of every rotation, so I stopped the saw and looked at the alignment, guides, and tension (I was cutting a ~1" thick piece of apple). I cleared some dust and turned the saw on again without cutting anything to see if it would run true, and it snapped. I am using a Laguna 14bx. The first blade that snapped was a Laguna Pro Force, I believe, 3/4 3tpi. I set it up with some Alex Snodgrass videos on the matter. When we ordered new blades, the woodcraft assistant said that the Laguna blades don't require as much tension as other blades? The timber wolf was the same 3/4 3tpi. Part of the reason they broke so quickly was that I used them for 6 hours daily until they broke. My dad and I have collected wood from the island for two years, which is rotting in the yard, so I was trying to get it all processed so it can dry. I was cutting small branches to 12" logs. I got two logs of Persian ironwood driven up in my brother's truck, and I was cutting that. My dad cut them into 12" rounds, I cut them vertically before cutting them into blanks. I also cut cedar and hemlock firewood into blanks. The blade is thick, so I didn't try cutting circles. All of the cuts were straight. I am currently using the ceramic guides that came with the saw. I need to get the book, or two. Also, there are no roads to our island, so a boat or plane haha we do have an extra cabin with a bed and plumbing on our property...

As for harder-to-sand smaller pieces, convex shapes are easy, concave shapes are not, and details are not. I have a 600g CBN wheel and diamond stones, and I use them, however, there are occasionally lines. When I say small, I mean details and concave shapes. The sandpaper I use is cheap and doesn't bend well, so it is not ideal for the small curves. I am looking for better sandpaper. The three below all either have no sanding, such as the finial, or maybe a used 320 that does bend (different brand). I am not usually sanding tearout, but just the small imperfections from the tool. Places where it is hard to get a gouge are also hard to get sandpaper.

The soft wood I turned that I used 80g on is not small, it is 14" diameter 8" tall. It is green hemlock, which is worse than green cottonwood. The hemlock had extensive bug damage and for some reason, dulled tools extremely fast. My thomspon bowl gouge was dull in seconds. Because of this, and because it was spinning <600rpm, I resorted to a carbide scraper to just remove the wood quickly, as I wasn't having fun anymore. When it dries, I will sand it very extensively.

 

[Jordan Daoust]

The biggest “regular” cost for me would be wood first and then maybe sandpaper.

The real cost comes in with all the little tools that I tend to find myself needing (or wanting). Granted, I’ve only been at this for 6 months, but I’m constantly coming into a situation where there is a better tool for the job or a new tool that can broaden my skills.

 

[John K Jordan]

The sandpaper I use is cheap and doesn't bend well, so it is not ideal for the small curves. I am looking for better sandpaper.

SANDPAPER, not cheap but great

I’ve tried zillions of types of sandpaper and eventually settled on two types I’m happy with.

The first type and most used, 400 grit and down, is the heavy-cloth-backed Klingspor Gold in rolls. The paper is amazing, bends and folds well, doesn’t clog easily but when filled with dust I clean it with with a brush against an old piece of short-nap carpet or my jeans leg. Stays sharp a long time. I buy in rolls, both 1” wide and 2” wide for each grit. I mount the rolls on a long dispenser rod on brackets on the wall behind the lathe, handy to tear off any size strip I want. Great for detail since the stiff cloth keeps the piece nicely against the wood for places without much curve.. Rolling a piece into a tight spiral lets me easily sand the inside of coves too small to sand with the paper around my finger. I use more 400 than anything, some 320, a little 220 at times, and occasionally but rarely something coarser when needed. (I’ve removed the 80 grit rolls and save them for cleaning brake drums or rusted metal!) This paper is perfect for hand sanding inside and ouside bowls and platters after smoothing with hand scrapers.

I also glue 8” lengths onto thin plywood strips to make 1” and 2” wide sanding sticks. I can’t begin to describe how handy these have been over the years. I stick the sandpaper to the plywood sticks with spray-on adhesive, a different grit on each side. Great for flattening things.

The second type of sandpaper I can’t work without is the Indasia Redline Rhinowet. This stuff is amazing - it’s a wet&dry paper that is NOT your cheap automotive or black hardware store wet&dry that cracks when you bend it. It’s on a stong, thin and quite flexible backing and the grit is so well bonded it cannot crack even when bent into a sharp crease.

I buy 600 grit in 9x12 sheets by the box which lasts for years. I also get finer 800, 1000, 1200 and 1500 grit sheets in smaller quantities. (The finer grits are especially helpful when turning acrylics and metals.) I cut the sheets usually into approx 1”x3” strips and put them in little plastic bins just below the rolls of coarser paper. This stuff also cleans nicely when brushed against the leg of my jeans. I sometimes fold a piece to make it a little stiffer to better get into tight places. A strip rolled into a tight spiral is perfect for fine sanding in tight coves and concave detail.

I do most sanding by hand with these two types of paper.. Both work well when wet sanding with oil or at times, superglue.
Often I wrap strips around a soft white MagicRub type eraser for a firm but flexible backing.

BTW, for “soft sanding blocks” my favorite erasers are the type with tapered ends. I bought a box of these since the ends can get into tighter places if needed.:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CK4W56SJ

JKJ

 

[Peter Jacobson]

After the big equipment purchases are absorbed, my biggest expenses on a regular basis are the cost of sales. This includes gallery commissions, craft show entrance and booth fees (even though I only do one big one per year), tent, displays, lighting and other booth costs, website hosting costs, shipping costs, credit card (and Square) fees, taxes, commissions to Etsy and Shopify, occasional advertising costs, and dues in a few organizations. A lot of the fees are hidden, i.e. you don't see them directly because they are deducted from the sales amount, but they are real and add up.

 

[John K Jordan]

After the big equipment purchases are absorbed, my biggest expenses on a regular basis are the cost of sales. This includes gallery commissions, craft show entrance and booth fees (even though I only do one big one per year), tent, displays, lighting…

Yikes, sounds like a lot of work, almost makes me glad I don’t try to sell things!

I have a close friend who did all that for years, and while the craft fair scene (woodturning and pottery) was a lot of work, dealing with the big galleries was apparently stressful (He makes the largest Raku pottery in the world.) He’s quit all that and now spends his time mountain biking and playing on the tractor.

His house still looks like a museum, though!



JKJ

 

[R Henrickson]

After the big equipment purchases are absorbed, my biggest expenses on a regular basis are the cost of sales. This includes gallery commissions, craft show entrance and booth fees (even though I only do one big one per year), tent, displays, lighting and other booth costs, website hosting costs, shipping costs, credit card (and Square) fees, taxes, commissions to Etsy and Shopify, occasional advertising costs, and dues in a few organizations. A lot of the fees are hidden, i.e. you don't see them directly because they are deducted from the sales amount, but they are real and add up.

A good enumeration of the many reasons I try avoid having woodturning become a business. I do teach and demo, but those don't have all of those ancillary costs. My big equipment buying is (hopefully) over. I turn for pleasure and to explore ideas. I don't want it to become stressful. Materials and supplies are relatively minor expenses.

 

[Bill Blasic]

My biggest expense in woodturning would be heating my 24' X 36' shop. I use about a 150 gallons of heating oil a year and at the current price here that would be $410. Now my quest for new toys well that's a different story

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

My wood costs are zero, so that helps a lot. I'm still building my tool collection. At the TAW symposium, I bought Trent Bosch's stabilizer and tools, for example. I need a Versaflow or similar, but haven't been able to pull the trigger yet. Like many, the ongoing costs are the consumables, but I can't say it adds up to a lot for me.

If you sell your pieces, or plan to at some point, you can deduct your costs by filing a Schedule C as a business. I've done this the past two years, and plan on continuing that until, as someone said, my birth certificate expires.

 

[Tom McDonnell]

. I did pick up 2 new CBN wheels at the Oregon Woodturning Symposium this weekend from D Way/Jimmie Allen. He has a new maker for his wheels now. He told me he had way too many problems with the Chinses my wood stove every year, and go through 3 chords of oak each year for both house and shop, 3 chords each. No problems with air conditioning since it cools off a lot at night here. I do try to avoid "signature" tools since you pay way too much for the signature. Oh, this does not include my flat work area....

robo hippy

Oregon symposium was, aside from my lathe, the largest woodturning expenditure yet. Loaded up on Dway tools, bowl blanks and misc turning items. Travel, motel etc. Bought a few turned items as well, here is one below. Nice weather too! I'll never drive across Oregon in March again.

 

[robo hippy]

One can not help one's self some times.... I wanted to see Rudy Lopez do twice turned bowl, but he did some thing else.... Trent Bosch is always interesting. I did leave Saturday since the club told me they didn't need my van to move the lathe back to town. I do love my own bed! I did buy 2 unhandled Mike Mahoney signature gouges from Carter and son who were not there this time. I have been wanting true parabolic fluted gouges to see how they perform. I will turn them into 40/40 gouges.

robo hippy

 

[hughie]

Electricity, we are going crazy to be green and they seem to have forgotten about base load power. The last Federal election was fought on this, but its still rising, with expected to increase this year 3-9%

 

[Mike Drake]

Mine is definitely the 36x56 shopi am having built. Even if I use part of it for something else.

 

[John K Jordan]

Mine is definitely the 36x56 shopi am having built. Even if I use part of it for something else.

Yeah, that’s certainly an expense but SO worth it! (got any progress pictures?)

I mine is 24x62 and worth the effort (but I wish I had made it 30’ wide.)
I built it myself, underground power and all, everything except for surfacing the concrete and putting up the roof (a friend brought a crane for the trusses). I tell visitors I built it with my bare hands but I lie, I used tools. Even working every day it took me a looong time.

JKJ

 

[Kevin Jenness]

It sounds like you are becoming a professional woodturner. Your work speaks well for you. Keep at it and you will find success on your own terms, but don't expect to be the be wealthy in terms of dollars. I suspect the next years will pose a significant challenge for artisans. Take care of the pennies (no longer to be minted) but don't let the pounds take care of themselves- by that I mean, concentrate on marketing as well as your costs.

I am on the far end of the spectrum as a semi-retired cabinetmaker and aspiring turner. I am lucky to have a shop next to my home, both built by myself over 40 years with no debt. Otherwise, my biggest expense would be rent or mortgage, followed by utilities. I work with local green timber, costing only my labor. As is, my largest outlay is insurance, followed by consumables like abrasives and finishes, which are almost negligeable. If you want to work with non-native woods, material costs may be a significant factor.

My free advice, worth every penny is this. Find or build a shop you can afford where you can work safely and comfortably, invest in gear that will outlast you and a community that will support and sustain your work, develop a market/clientele that values your work so that you can survive and grow.

 

[John K Jordan]

…My free advice, worth every penny is this. Find or build a shop you can afford where you can work safely and comfortably, invest in gear that will outlast you and a community that will support and sustain your work, develop a market/clientele that values your work so that you can survive and grow.

That sounds like good advice. The best thing I did was build a comfortable shop and acquire good tools. The part about developing a market/clientele for growth doesn’t appeal to me but seems wise for those with the goal of selling things.

JKJ

 

[Karl Best]

Many of us have mentioned sandpaper as a major expense once our tools and equipment have been purchased. A good way to save costs is to buy in bulk: buy rolls or sheets and then punch out 2" discs using an arch punch. (They're a bit hard to find that large; I probably got mine on Amazon.) Instead of $1/ea for Abranet discs I can get the cost down to about 20 cents.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

Many of us have mentioned sandpaper as a major expense once our tools and equipment have been purchased. A good way to save costs is to buy in bulk: buy rolls or sheets and then punch out 2" discs using an arch punch. (They're a bit hard to find that large; I probably got mine on Amazon.) Instead of $1/ea for Abranet discs I can get the cost down to about 20 cents.

Good idea. It never occurred to me.

 

[robo hippy]

I did buy bulk paper for cutting my own discs, and even had a clicker press that was used for cutting pieces out of leather. I made custom hacky sacks and juggle balls for years. I eventually gave that up. Mostly due to the time it took, and that was even with cutting 5 layers at once.

robo hippy

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

Many of us have mentioned sandpaper as a major expense once our tools and equipment have been purchased. A good way to save costs is to buy in bulk: buy rolls or sheets and then punch out 2" discs using an arch punch. (They're a bit hard to find that large; I probably got mine on Amazon.) Instead of $1/ea for Abranet discs I can get the cost down to about 20 cents.

One problem with buying in bulk is many manufacturers won't sell their proprietary exotic super abrasives in bulk.

There are places called "converters" that will custom make disks and belts, etc. But they can't always purchase certain abrasives in bulk. But you can go direct to the manufacturer of the desired abrasive to have what you want made. 3M, for instance, will make special shapes and belts for you but they might have large minimum purchase quantities. 3M made a special Trizact belt size for me, 1" by 92", but the minimum order was a hundred belts.

In my experience prices from converters are about the same or less than an equivalent common size per square inch of area.

 

[Karl Best]

One problem with buying in bulk is many manufacturers won't sell their proprietary exotic super abrasives in bulk.

It doesn't even need to be a special order. My last order was to Beaver Industrial Supply (there are other places as well), where I got Abranet rolls, 4 1/2" x 30' for about $61; I can get approximately 320 2" discs out of that, for a cost of 19 cents each. https://beavertools.com/brands/mirka/abrasives-by-material/pine/abranet/abranet.html

And @Robo, yeah it does take a little time to punch them out, but I do like the cost savings.

 

[Isaac Litster]

I suspect the next years will pose a significant challenge for artisans.

The changes in the world for the last decades seem to have been challenging for many crafts, and the economic developments now too. I'm leaving home next year and will be living in a dorm. Woodturning is important to me, but I can't have it be the only thing under my belt when I find a career, this will also be a challenge.