Just read an online magazine article in which the author used Waterlox as his go to finish for furniture and it seemed very easy to use. Wondering if anyone has had any experience using WaterLox and what they though of it for wood turnings.
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WaterLox Experiance
- Thread starter Alan Spears
- Start date
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- Apr 27, 2004
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- Lakeland, Florida
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- www.hockenberywoodturning.com
I use it all the time.
The manufacturer even claims it is food safe after curing.
I sand hollow forms and bowls to 320 ( use a thin shellac sealer on soft maple) applyna wet coat wipe off excess after about 5-10 minutes. Use compressed air to blow out any crevices. If excess dries in a turned groove, crack, void etc it get real shiny. Let dry over night sand the 1st coat with 400.
Apply a light wet coat, wipe off after 5 minutes, use compressed air if needed, let dry overnight, sand with 0000 scotch bright for all coats after the first.
After 3-5 coats I declare it done.
For more shine I use the beal buffing
Or for a quick deeper shine after 2-3 coats of Waterlox I apply Odies oil and buff.
Waterlox gels like crazy. I pour the newly opened can into 2 plastic soda or water bottles.
To seal after each opening I put the cap,on loosely squeeze the bottle until some Waterlox runs out the edges of the cape and close the cap tightly.
I often need vice grips to open them cal when the Waterlox glues it on.
As the bottles get empty I fold the bottom of the bottle up and keep squeezing until all the air is out.
Waterlox last 6-8 months in the plastic bottles.
The manufacturer even claims it is food safe after curing.
I sand hollow forms and bowls to 320 ( use a thin shellac sealer on soft maple) applyna wet coat wipe off excess after about 5-10 minutes. Use compressed air to blow out any crevices. If excess dries in a turned groove, crack, void etc it get real shiny. Let dry over night sand the 1st coat with 400.
Apply a light wet coat, wipe off after 5 minutes, use compressed air if needed, let dry overnight, sand with 0000 scotch bright for all coats after the first.
After 3-5 coats I declare it done.
For more shine I use the beal buffing
Or for a quick deeper shine after 2-3 coats of Waterlox I apply Odies oil and buff.
Waterlox gels like crazy. I pour the newly opened can into 2 plastic soda or water bottles.
To seal after each opening I put the cap,on loosely squeeze the bottle until some Waterlox runs out the edges of the cape and close the cap tightly.
I often need vice grips to open them cal when the Waterlox glues it on.
As the bottles get empty I fold the bottom of the bottle up and keep squeezing until all the air is out.
Waterlox last 6-8 months in the plastic bottles.
Last edited:
Tom Gall
TOTW Team
It USED to be my favorite finish! I don't turn very much anymore and when I do most pieces are colored, textured, and/or burned to some extent. When I first started using Waterlox Original I could purchase it for $7.99 qt. at my local paint store. After several years it was not allowed to be sold in NJ, now I have to purchase by mail order at about $30 qt. plus shipping !!!!! Al H. is right.....it likes to gel up if you don't use it up in several months. I try to preserve it similarly to Al's method but add a small square of plastic film (stretch wrap or Saran wrap) over the cap and usually a squirt of two of Bloxygen into the can.
My method of application for most turnings is: Seal with Zinsser Spray Shellac using a pad of nylon stocking/panty hose.....works great. When dry.....de-nib/scuff with #0000 steel wool or white fiber pad. Apply a light coat of Waterlox with a small pad (I.e.- lint free shop towel). I DON'T wipe if off. Let it dry....then de-nib/scuff if necessary. Usually one coat does the trick, but depending on the wood you may want to apply a second coat using the same method. I've never had to use more than two coats. This will give a fairly shiny finish without that thick, plastic looking shiny finish. You can coat with light wax or use the Beall system if desired. BTW - I do/did most of my finishing while the piece is still mounted and turning very slowly on the lathe. Makes it simple & quick to get an even flow of finish. Of course, it can applied off the lathe as well...just takes a little longer,
My method of application for most turnings is: Seal with Zinsser Spray Shellac using a pad of nylon stocking/panty hose.....works great. When dry.....de-nib/scuff with #0000 steel wool or white fiber pad. Apply a light coat of Waterlox with a small pad (I.e.- lint free shop towel). I DON'T wipe if off. Let it dry....then de-nib/scuff if necessary. Usually one coat does the trick, but depending on the wood you may want to apply a second coat using the same method. I've never had to use more than two coats. This will give a fairly shiny finish without that thick, plastic looking shiny finish. You can coat with light wax or use the Beall system if desired. BTW - I do/did most of my finishing while the piece is still mounted and turning very slowly on the lathe. Makes it simple & quick to get an even flow of finish. Of course, it can applied off the lathe as well...just takes a little longer,
I made most of the furniture in my home using white oak in the Craftsman/ Mission style, including ammonia vapored staining. All of it is finished with wipe-on Waterlox. Some of it is 35 years old now, in a an active home that raised 5 boys and now some grandchildren. Waterlox is good stuff. Obviously, used as a bowl finish that may experience hand soap and water washing it will show the wear, but it's more like patina. I use it it on my all my bowls as well.
I see that Waterlox offers three varieties: https://www.waterlox.com/original
A couple question for those who have used Waterlox to finish bowls:
Dave
1. Waterlox Original Sealer and Finish
2. Waterlox Original Gloss Finish
3. Waterlox Original Satin Finish
2. Waterlox Original Gloss Finish
3. Waterlox Original Satin Finish
A couple question for those who have used Waterlox to finish bowls:
- Which ones have you tried?
- Pros and cons, especially comparing the sealer/finish (#1) to the other two?
- Do you really need to apply the sealer/finish (#1) first before using either of the other two like the instructions say? Or can you just use a shellac sealer?
Dave
Original works best for me. I tried the Satin and was not satisfied with the results, and it was not as easy to apply. You can get quite a glossy finish with the Original and some buffing.
Tom, thanks for the input and link to Craft Supplies video. I just placed an order for a quart of the original Sealer and Finish version. I'm hoping, based on what I've read elsewhere, that it will impart less yellowing than the Minwax Antique Oil that I mostly use now.
Dave
Dave
- Joined
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- www.hockenberywoodturning.com
You will get less color change.
Be sure to prevent gelling.
I put mine in platic water or coke bottles
After every use I put the cap on a 1/2 turn and squeeze or crush the bottle until some comes out under the cap then close the cap while squeezing. This extends the shelf life from days to many months.
The gelling is the one big drawback to using Waterlox. I will often wait until I have three or more projects to do finish at one time.
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Thanks for the warnings. I've had good luck using Stoploss bags to extend the shelf life of Minwax Antique Oil. I plan to use one with the Waterlox when it arrives.
Dave
All your responses are great and appreciated. Thank You!
Thanks for the information
Thanks Tom
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I use minwax wipe on poly. the main reason I chose it was because the Waterlox was more expensive, can't get it locally, and it seems to gel in the can faster than miniwax does. I bought some of the bags to decant the minwax into but then this move came about and all that stuff is packed for at least the next few months so I haven't had a chance to try them out. If you stick with Waterlox look into the stoploss bags.
Hi Allen! looking for information on Waterlox and there you were..un..ah..are. Did you end up trying waterlox? will talk to you next week.
In California the Waterlox is VOC compliant now and not the original which I liked. The new formulation has a extremely nasty smell which my vapor mask can only keep out for about 15 minutes. I can't use it because of this. I think California is saving the environment but killing the users of this product. Anyone else use the VOC formulation and have the same complaint?
Literally killing them? You are talking about the H2OLOX? That still has trimehylbenzene in it, so certainly not odorless!
No not literally that I know but who knows fir sure. The ingredients are not very specific on the can.
The can says nothing about water formula. Funny it says use mineral spirits to clean up put you can't get that in California.
The can says nothing about water formula. Funny it says use mineral spirits to clean up put you can't get that in California.Look up the MSDS for an accurate list of ingredients. Even then you can get the proprietary comment so they don't have to be specific. That can appears to have some age on it, so likely not the latest product. VOC compliant usually means just lower solvent percentage is added to the can. Here it says that is the original formula, just lower VOCs.It also says there is mineral spirits in the formula. https://www.waterlox.com/original-voc-guide I found that the VOC compliant has been available since 2004, so you probably can't buy it any longer in CA.
An interesting source of info on Waterlox for woodturning is the YouTube channel of production turner Jim Sprague. He recently decided to switch finishes (from General Salad Bowl Finish) and went through various options, finally settling on Waterlox. Here is a link to a video in which he reviews Waterlox, but he has a number of videos about his trials with finishes that are worth watching. He is very open and thorough in sharing his methods and he has a pleasant, unpretentious manner. His niche is wood/resin and wood/inlay combos, but he does a lot of "regular" bowls.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ZCf-esIE1w&t=1s&ab_channel=SpragueWoodturning
Richard after the MSDS was drummed into my head for over 30 years they changed it to just MDS. Took out the safety for some reason. Still call it MSDS to this day.