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Vacuum chuck

It is far easier for me to just remove the card. My camera is in the shop along with all the various cables. My computer is in the house so it's just flat out easier to pull the card and take it in with me. I have been retired for over 5 years now and purchased the camera then. I have used those cards who knows how many times and just yesterday the card lock pin on one of my cards broke off so it's now useless. It was only a 4 gig card so no real loss. Can't tell you how many times that card has been used.
 
Used to pop the card into the computer or the iPad card reader for 2 reasons.
Seems easier
The computer can name folders on the Canon card to group photos into folders.

Now we use an iPad for initial photo review. Easy to spot the winners
The newer iPad won’t provide enough electrify to power a card reader like the original did.

So for the canon 7D it is cable to the iPad
Tg3 downloads over its own WiFi pretty cool!
 
James Seyfried said:
Just trying to understand why using the USB cable is better. Is it because the USB cable and it's connectors are less important to the camera than the memory card and it's connectors are? As you could still use the camera if you wear out the USB connector in the camera and cables are cheaper than cards? Or are they more durable? I usually leave my camera on the tripod and take the card to the computer, it seems more convenient. But it won't be if I have to replace the card or camera! :(
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If you have a DSLR camera that uses CF cards with 40 pin gold plated connectors then there are two main problems: bent pins on the camera connector and wearing through of the thin gold plating on the pins. Also, the tiny thin SD that some cameras use aren't very physically rugged. They aren't designed for frequent insertions and removals without wearing through the gold plating on the electrical contacts. Handling them exposes them to ESD (electrostatic discharge) which leads to erosion of semiconductor junctions on the memory chip.

USB connectors are far more rugged and designed for a much greater service life with respect to insertions and removals. Also the interface circuits have greater noise immunity.

A few years ago CF cards were extremely expensive. Even though the price has dropped considerably they still aren't cheap. The less you handle them, the fewer problem you are likely to encounter.
 
I use Canon EOS Utility for downloading images to my computer. I like the way that it automatically catalogues the files. EOS Utility is a very versatile program that even enables me to do remote shooting from my computer including remote focusing. I'm thinking about adding a WiFi module to one of my cameras.
 
Bill Boehme said:
I hardly ever remove the cards from my cameras. Instead I use the USB cables that come with the cameras. Cameras also come with software on a CD. If you install it on your computer it will automatically download the pictures when you connect the USB cable. This is quicker and easier than taking the memory card out of the camera and plugging it into the computer. It also is less wear and tear on the memory card and connectors.

You can either attach or embed photos in an email, but that's as much work as attaching or embedding a photo in a post on the forum. I probably ought to post a thread on doing that in the FAQ section.
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Thanks, Bill…..that makes sense. I bought my camera in 2010 but I believe it is a 2008 model (Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX3) and is not a high end model. I found the CD (which I originally thought was for Windows – I have a Mac) and the included cable. Looking closer at the disc it also includes ArcSoft (Panorama Maker) and Silkypix (Developer Studio) for Mac. Is that anything I might want for posting purposes?

Also, the included cable has what looks like a mini-USB for the camera but the other end has two plugs that look like RCA audio plugs. The two ports on the back of my iMac that will fit the plug(s) are for headphones and audio inputs. If I purchase a new cable (USB to mini-USB) will that work to make the transfer from camera to computer (“Photos”) or do I still need the CD program? Seems like it should work to me, but…… :confused:

Looking forward to your photo post in the FAQ section….. :D
 
I don't know anything about Panasonic cameras, but you might be able to find the answer on their website. The panorama maker is for stitching several photos together as in landscape shots to get a wide angle view. The other one might be for downloading pictures, but you could probably find out on the Panasonic web site. I would say without a doubt that the CD that comes with any camera has apps for both Windows and Mac computers. There is bound to be software for downloading images to your computer. That cable sounds like it might be an audio cable, but I've never seen anything like that. Maybe your owners manual tells you what it is for.

I would assume that a regular USB to mini USB cable ought to work, but be forewarned that there are several variations of the mini and micro USB connectors that are different enough that one won't quite fit the other no matter how hard you try. :D Even if there isn't any software on the CD for downloading images, the computer OS is able to do it. The only trick is to make sure the camera is set to the right mode for downloading pictures. If it's a point and shoot camera, the camera probably has two modes ... one for taking pictures and the other for viewing and downloading pictures.
 
My Canon EOS T5 does not have wifi but the software only covers wifi now . Had to go onto the Canon site and get a add on for program to work with the USB which is easier to use and the numbering and organization is easier than if using the card. Of note Canon seems to be going to wifi and getting away from USB.
 
I'm going to post some pictures on behalf of Tom Gall. He was kind to send them to me. I really like the soft round gasket on some of the PVC chucks, are those the rubber chuckie ones? Thank you Tom for sending me the pictures. Aloha
 

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Emiliano Achaval said:
I'm going to post some pictures on behalf of Tom Gall. He was kind to send them to me. I really like the soft round gasket on some of the PVC chucks, are those the rubber chuckie ones? Thank you Tom for sending me the pictures. Aloha
Click to expand...

The gasket on the rim looks like it might be "Oogoo". There was an article in American Woodturner a couple years ago about Oogoo although the article misspelled it as "Oogroo". The article featured making a gasket for a vacuum chuck. Oogoo is a DIY moldable material made by mixing silicone caulk and cornstarch. The silicone caulk needs to be the cheap stuff that stinks like vinegar (Ace Hardware brand for example) and NOT the fancy odorless caulk (GE Silicone II, for example).

Finding the "right" gasket material for a vacuum chuck is a never ending struggle between firm, soft, thick, and thin. And, the requirement varies with each piece that you turn. If the gasket is soft and thick, it is great for getting a good seal, but the disadvantage is that the turning will squirm out of alignment as you apply vacuum. A thin and firm gasket is great for bowls that don't have any warp and don't squirm much as you apply vacuum, but many bowls develop some slight warping even if they were dry when you turned them. I've found a door seal that has a D profile that seems to be a good compromise between conflicting requirements.
 
Emiliano Achaval said:
I'm going to post some pictures on behalf of Tom Gall. He was kind to send them to me. I really like the soft round gasket on some of the PVC chucks, are those the rubber chuckie ones? Thank you Tom for sending me the pictures. Aloha
Click to expand...
Thanks for posting the photos for me. I sent you another email about an hour ago explaining how they were made.
 
Bill Boehme said:
The gasket on the rim looks like it might be "Oogoo". There was an article in American Woodturner a couple years ago about Oogoo although the article misspelled it as "Oogroo". The article featured making a gasket for a vacuum chuck. Oogoo is a DIY moldable material made by mixing silicone caulk and cornstarch. The silicone caulk needs to be the cheap stuff that stinks like vinegar (Ace Hardware brand for example) and NOT the fancy odorless caulk (GE Silicone II, for example).

Finding the "right" gasket material for a vacuum chuck is a never ending struggle between firm, soft, thick, and thin. And, the requirement varies with each piece that you turn. If the gasket is soft and thick, it is great for getting a good seal, but the disadvantage is that the turning will squirm out of alignment as you apply vacuum. A thin and firm gasket is great for bowls that don't have any warp and don't squirm much as you apply vacuum, but many bowls develop some slight warping even if they were dry when you turned them. I've found a door seal that has a D profile that seems to be a good compromise between conflicting requirements.
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Bill, the "gasket" material shown in the photos Emiliano posted are TURNED from the PVC Foam Board mentioned above (#10 of this thread). These can also be made with wood or MDF (or anything else you might have on hand), but the PVC Foam is non-porous and easy to work. It gives a broader and more "gentle" surface area (similar to a OneWay aluminum drum chuck) to mount any sealing foam than the plain PVC pipe. The Foam Board can be used without any sealing gasket if the bowl's surface is perfectly round, but in most cases will work better with a gasket material as you describe in your 2nd paragraph above.
Years ago I tried Sugru but wasn't happy with the result and the high cost. I also attempted to use the "Oogoo" as you mentioned but found it to be messy and cumbersome. This method works better for me. :)
 
I've used Nikon digital cameras since they first came out. Thousands and thousands of images and cards of all makes and prices. I have always unpluggged the card from the camera and plugged it into either the computer or the a card reader. In all the years I've been doing this I have only had about 3 cards fail. They may seem fragile but apparently they wear well. The cards I have now are almost 6 years old. I have about 8 of them and they are constantly being used and pulled out of the camera. I just had the first one fail the other day and that was the lock pin got broken and unfortunately it was i the lock position otherwise the card would still work.
 
john lucas said:
I've used Nikon digital cameras since they first came out. Thousands and thousands of images and cards of all makes and prices. I have always unpluggged the card from the camera and plugged it into either the computer or the a card reader. In all the years I've been doing this I have only had about 3 cards fail. They may seem fragile but apparently they wear well. The cards I have now are almost 6 years old. I have about 8 of them and they are constantly being used and pulled out of the camera. I just had the first one fail the other day and that was the lock pin got broken and unfortunately it was i the lock position otherwise the card would still work.
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Not everyone is as mechanically inclined as you and I are. You can read sad stories every day on camera forums where someone inserted a card the wrong way even though the manufacturers do everything possible to make it impossible to insert them the wrong way. You probably don't use a CF card to shim a short table leg or use an SD card as a guitar pick.
 
Tom Gall said:
Thanks for posting the photos for me. I sent you another email about an hour ago explaining how they were made.
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Tom, I didnt get the second email. Could you please resend it. I', having a hard time searching the AAW journal... Thanks again.
 
Bill Boehme said:
The gasket on the rim looks like it might be "Oogoo". There was an article in American Woodturner a couple years ago about Oogoo although the article misspelled it as "Oogroo". The article featured making a gasket for a vacuum chuck. Oogoo is a DIY moldable material made by mixing silicone caulk and cornstarch. The silicone caulk needs to be the cheap stuff that stinks like vinegar (Ace Hardware brand for example) and NOT the fancy odorless caulk (GE Silicone II, for example).

Finding the "right" gasket material for a vacuum chuck is a never ending struggle between firm, soft, thick, and thin. And, the requirement varies with each piece that you turn. If the gasket is soft and thick, it is great for getting a good seal, but the disadvantage is that the turning will squirm out of alignment as you apply vacuum. A thin and firm gasket is great for bowls that don't have any warp and don't squirm much as you apply vacuum, but many bowls develop some slight warping even if they were dry when you turned them. I've found a door seal that has a D profile that seems to be a good compromise between conflicting requirements.
Click to expand...
I have been searching the Index of the journal for over an hour. No luck yet.
 
Emiliano Achaval said:
I have been searching the Index of the journal for over an hour. No luck yet.
Click to expand...

Sorry for steering you in the wrong direction. My memory isn't what it used to be. The article calls it "Oogloo" and not "Oogroo" as I incorrectly remembered. Thank you, Dwight, for looking it up.
 
Bill Boehme said:
Sorry for steering you in the wrong direction. My memory isn't what it used to be. The article calls it "Oogloo" and not "Oogroo" as I incorrectly remembered. Thank you, Dwight, for looking it up.
Click to expand...
No problem I found some other interesting articles...
 
Emiliano Achaval said:
Tom, I didnt get the second email. Could you please resend it. I', having a hard time searching the AAW journal... Thanks again.
Click to expand...
I'm confused....do you want me to re-send the email? I received your email today saying you "Found it".
The email or the article? The info I sent you has nothing to do with the AAW Journal.
 
Bill Boehme said:
Sorry for steering you in the wrong direction. My memory isn't what it used to be. The article calls it "Oogloo" and not "Oogroo" as I incorrectly remembered. Thank you, Dwight, for looking it up.
Click to expand...
Found the article, printed it... I will stick to foam craft for now, its quite a project, not sure if it worth the trouble, Id rather be turning and making money than spending a day or more doing that, I'd be willing to buy them for sure, they look great... Order some 2 mm foam craft from Amazon, might aster than the one I can find here...
 
I agree that his design is over complicated and also reduces the effective holding area of the chuck too much.. I have only experimented with Oogoo to make intermediate molds because it can be separated from most materials without too much difficulty.
 
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