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two prong center

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my two prong center has a probe (like a ice pick)between the two prongs, the probe is removable

when do i leave it in and when do i take it out, :confused:any guidelines

i use the two prong center on cross garin and 4 prong center on endgrain
 

hockenbery

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I only remove mine to sharpen it.
I also adjust it so that the point is about 1/8 above the prongs.

I much prefer a four prong center for cross grain pieces.
in my opinion it allows prepositioning of the blank in two axis a lot better than a 2 prong center.

happy turning,
Al
 
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maybe by xmas

I much prefer a four prong center for cross grain pieces.
in my opinion it allows prepositioning of the blank in two axis a lot better than a 2 prong center.

i am still trying for an oblong piece, i still coming up round:confused:, but can chose what is on the top and what is on the bottom after seeing the grain,

maybe i will figure it out by xmas, not sure which year though:D
 

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the idea behind a two prong is you can reposition the opposite end (tail stock) still get bite and the head stock centered

ah ah, lightbulb goes on:cool2:
 
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baitbegger,
Your comment about still trying to turn "oblong"; I assume thats on the short axis of the piece. If you offset your "round" result on the spindle and turn it (turning away the "ghost" or shadow of the wood) half its diameter, then remount it offset toward the opposing side of the piece and turn it in the same fashion, you should come up with the oblong shape you're looking for. Try it with a very slight offset (eccentric) position for the initial attempt. You can exaggerate the offset increasingly as you gain experience and confidence.
If you're trying to create an oblong piece along the long axis, just offset one end (I prefer the tailstock end) and it'll fall into place nicely.
 
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thanks

thanks, i believe i need to scale down the size of the attemps of these oblong pieces, the experiment might go faster til i can duplicate others:D
 
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