Turning woes and questions

[Darrin]

I have a question maybe some of you may know the answer to...hell I hope! Every time I turn a bowl I get opposite sides of it(Inside and out) rougher than hell! Sanding does no good and applying a finish just pronounces the grainy testure. What am I doing wrong? Granted Im brand new to turning, and am teaching myself as there is no one near me to learn from. Tools? Wood? hmmm.........Its so discouraging. When I say opposite sides, I mean as though its in the grain of the wood..I think? Sheesh. And Its happened both with cherry and pine(Practice wood scraps from work) Also alot of cracking around the rim of the bowls. Is that from excess heat? How do I prevent those cracks?? One day damnit, I'll get this figured out. Thanks in advance! :mad:
Darrin

 

[Charlie Knighton]

tear out

first let me say welcome and that is tear out
if you think of a bowl as a clock then each 15 minute is 1/4 of the clock face and certain woods have more or less tendancy to have tear out in opposite quarters of the clock soft virginia maple tears out very easily, while black walnut tends not to there are always exceptions, no absolutes

sharp tools and tecnique are important, also you can spray sanding sealer or just plain ole shellac on the surface, let dry, and turn again

the technique i will let others describe that have more experince

 

[hockenbery]

There are many variables. Tear out happens when the fibers are pulled out an broken off rather than being cut.

If you are turning a traditional face grain bowl you will get less tear out if you turn the Outside from the bottom "out" to the rim and the inside from the rim "in".

A sharp bowl gouge ridiing the bevel at center will greatly reduce tear out.

Less aggressive cuts create less tear out. make light finish cuts.
A 1/4 bowl gouge will usually produce less tear out than a 1/2 bowl gouge because it is slightly sharper and takes a smaller cut.

Check the web site for an AAW chapter near you. Most clubs welcome visitors. They can tell you about classes in the area. Many clubs have regular help sessions or mentoring programs.

Happy turning,
Al

 

[Vaughn McMillan]

...A 1/4 bowl gouge will usually produce less tear out than a 1/2 bowl gouge because it is slightly sharper and takes a smaller cut...

While I agree with all your points, I'm a bit confused when you say the 1/4" gouge is sharper that tn 1/2". The cutting edge -- and how sharp it is -- is independent of the diameter of the tool. If you mean (as I think you do) that the tip of the gouge is at a tighter radius, and thus takes a smaller bite then I'd agree with that.

 

[MichaelMouse]

The fuzzy spots are where you got underneath the wood more than cut across it. You're interested in cutting across the grain and down hill where there's some support in uncut wood behind what you're working. Mostly it's technique. Gouge 101 says you want to take your shaving so that it cuts progressively deeper but gets progressively thinner, until it feathers itself on the edge of the gouge when it leaves the wood.

Most people get the angles right on the outside fairly easily, even though they sometimes end up pulling the tool. Inside really wants a different gouge altogether for the fine trimming. I use the one the old boys used before the metal workers decided we ought to use cylinders, and find it's easier to control because it's easier to support on rest and wood. I like broader radius gouges to get a lot of bevel lightly on the wood for support. I can lean it left and trail the edge to feather the shaving easily.

Take a look at the angles I use. They will work, with a bit less stability and on a narrow sweet spot, with cylindrical gouges, but if you have a choice, take what is easiest! http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n28/MichaelMouse/?action=view&current=CherryPeelIn.flv

Note a couple of things in the video beyond support and angle. The shavings don't lift, because I'm not underneath them. The only lift comes from the curved shape of the gouge flute, and I'm not pressing or "riding" the bevel, just leaning it on the work.

It's the same, only easier to visualize, on the outside. http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n28/MichaelMouse/?action=view&current=CherryPeelOut.flv To keep yourself and your work safer, swing the gouge handle to create a continuous surface rather than try to chase an uneven one with your bevel. Finish with the bevel supported.

From above, with a couple of different gouges. Al will like the smaller one, as do I, for the final cuts. http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n28/MichaelMouse/?action=view&current=YY.flv