Tool question: Munro Wundercutt10 worth it?

[Alan Weinberg]

I know Randy and John like the Munro. Is this a great tool for hollowing in hollow forms? Found it for $280 at Packard. That’s a lot of money for one tool. And this version is almost $400: Munro 3/4” H2 tool with carbide cutter.

What’s best if buying just one?

Search mode shows some favorable reviews but all a few years old, so I’ll start over.

 

[Kevin Jesequel]

I have the Wondercut10 and like it very much for my olla pottery inspired forms. It is also excellent for tall end grain bowls. It moves material quickly and leaves an excellent surface off the tool. The 5/8” bar is stable quite a ways over the tool rest. The 3/4” tool would get you even further and mount in a Jamieson style hollowing rig without the need for adapters.

 

[Richard Coers]

Asking is a tool is worth it makes answers really difficult . Could easily be worth it to them but not you. What do you want to gain by buying it? I've found that that kind of cutting system has to be used at lower spindle speeds, and the curls can be very long and difficult to get out of a hollow form with a small opening.

 

[Alan Weinberg]

Asking is a tool is worth it makes answers really difficult . Could easily be worth it to them but not you. What do you want to gain by buying it? I've found that that kind of cutting system has to be used at lower spindle speeds, and the curls can be very long and difficult to get out of a hollow form with a small opening.

Probably true about asking about anything. But if I heard it catches easily or is made of poor material and falls apart, other opinions, the info would be helpful. Just like what you offered about shavings—thanks!

 

[Kevin Jesequel]

It is super solid and well made. I also have used the Woodcut Pro-Form, which is probably the most comparable hollowing tool and I prefer the Munro.

 

[Bob Brown]

Go ahead and get one or both . Then write up a review.

 

[Alan Weinberg]

Go ahead and get one or both . Then write up a review.

Hahah. At the expense, you funding me? These would be the most expensive tools I’ve ever bought so I’m going slowly.

 

[Richard Coers]

Hahah. At the expense, you funding me? These would be the most expensive tools I’ve ever bought so I’m going slowly.

If you are going slow, ask at your local club if anyone has one. Much better to try one before making the purchase. If I was spending that kind of money to hollow, I would buy the Jamieson system again. It's only $499

 

[Alan Weinberg]

If you are going slow, ask at your local club if anyone has one. Much better to try one before making the purchase. If I was spending that kind of money to hollow, I would buy the Jamieson system again. It's only $499

Great advice. Kind of stuff I was looking for.

 

[Bob Brown]

Hahah. At the expense, you funding me? These would be the most expensive tools I’ve ever bought so I’m going slowly.

I have the 2nd one and like it. Remember, these are used mostly for end grain. You can also use hook tools for end grain, Martel makes a good one. Lots of options now a days.

 

[Doug Freeman]

I’ve never used a Munro type hollowing tool. I do quite a bit of hollowing. I see those type of tools sort of limited - the tool is somewhat large, requiring a hole large enough to fit, and it needs a larger access to get the large, long chips out.

I tend to make the access hole small as possible for the size of project. I use a Jamieson system. The 3/16” tool bits can remove material quickly. A teardrop scraper bit can be attached to the small bar the swivel mounts on to smooth things out if I make a piece with a large opening.

I also use a Oneway termite for large opening end grain turnings (I make end grain bowls). It works similar to the Munro style and is cheaper. I picked mine up reasonably from a club member.

I don’t see much use for me for those large covered edge style tools.

 

[Neil S]

It is super solid and well made. I also have used the Woodcut Pro-Form, which is probably the most comparable hollowing tool and I prefer the Munro.

I also have both, but prefer the Woodcut Pro-Form.

You have to develop efficient shavings removal with any of these hollowers.

Definitely a good idea to borrow one, if possible, and try it before you buy.

They do come up 2nd hand but you do have to be patient or very lucky to get one that way.

 

[Bill Blasic]

Pro-Form for me also.

 

[Jacob Browning]

I've been really happy with the trent bosch hss hollowing tools. I've gone 10" over the tool rest with no issue for the 3/4" tool.

 

[Tim Dunbar]

i have the 3/4" monroe hollowing tool and use it all the time, plus i can use the boring bar in my jameson system both are great

 

[Randy Anderson]

The Munro tool is still part of my arsenal for hollowing and works well but does take some practice. I've settled into a routine for how I hollow that may vary a bit based on size and how the wood cuts. The primary use of the Munro tool now is cleanup once the main hollowing is done with the Simple articulated setup for the first 5-6 inches and then the Clark system for the rest of it. I sit on a stool at the end of the lathe, put the Munro tool bar on my right shoulder, hold it there with my right hand and control it near the tool rest with my left hand. I can easily see into the form and work specific areas or spots I see that need some cleanup work. If it's not a really large piece I may use the Munro for the hollowing after the 5-6 inch point but it's hard to beat the Clark for brute force material removal when needed.

 

[hughie]

I have the Wunderkut, Its only downfall as I see it is Rolly doesnt put out any instructions video. As a hollowing tool its just fine for me, although like all tools it has its limitations and recommended settings. The recommended setting for the shield/guard is .25mm at this setting I found it wont clog on dry seasoned wood and as the cutter is tungsten carbide it handles Aussie hardwood just fine. Its not really a rapid hogging out tool and for those want that attribute I would suggest look at The Woodcut Pro-Forme. But if you're hollowing small delicate pieces its ideal, see my avatar
Mine has a 16mm or 5/8 dia stainless bar havent had a problem with vibration and I enjoy the dia and length of the handle. I have my lathe set high so the standard position of any hollowing tool is in/on the arm pit. I find this a very easy position to turn large or small pieces and it really comes into its fore with large pieces of hardwood. I have a 3/4 high tensile hard chromed bar that can fit my WunderKut head to which allows my to reach in over 600mm or 24" quite comfortably
The beauty of this style of hollowers is they slice as opposed to the Öland style of cutter that are essentially scrapers and on hardwood tearing can be an issue

 

[Neil S]

I sit on a stool at the end of the lathe, put the Munro tool bar on my right shoulder, hold it there with my right hand and control it near the tool rest with my left hand. I can easily see into the form and work specific areas or spots I see that need some cleanup work.

Randy

That position is going to put far less strain on your back and, as you say, it puts your eye level down to where you can comfortably look inside.

I do almost all of my turning outboard, including deep hollow forms, and have sat myself that way with some deeper forms when my back was complaining. But, had to be mindful not to get the tool tangled up inside the form and have the handle whack me in the ear...

So, I'm not sure I would recommend inexperienced turners to do it that way. At least with the handle tucked under the arm the most you are going to get is bruised ribs or the piece hoicked off the lathe...

 

[Tim Dunbar]

i have the rolly munro hollowing tool with the 3/4" bar and i really like it, it does have a learning curve but its a great tool, i also use the bar in my jamieson rig, it is kind of expensive but i think worth it

 

[Randy Anderson]

Neil, so far it's been easy to control (with practice) using it that way. Biggest issue I have with it tucked in on my right shoulder is the noise the bar creates with my ear very close to it. A lot louder than one would think. I make sure to wear my noise cancelling earbuds when I'm using it.

 

[hughie]

Neil, so far it's been easy to control (with practice) using it that way. Biggest issue I have with it tucked in on my right shoulder is the noise the bar creates with my ear very close to it. A lot louder than one would think. I make sure to wear my noise cancelling earbuds when I'm using it.

Yes!

Randy

That position is going to put far less strain on your back and, as you say, it puts your eye level down to where you can comfortably look inside.

I do almost all of my turning outboard, including deep hollow forms, and have sat myself that way with some deeper forms when my back was complaining. But, had to be mindful not to get the tool tangled up inside the form and have the handle whack me in the ear...

So, I'm not sure I would recommend inexperienced turners to do it that way. At least with the handle tucked under the arm the most you are going to get is bruised ribs or the piece hoicked off the lathe...

Randy

That position is going to put far less strain on your back and, as you say, it puts your eye level down to where you can comfortably look inside.

I do almost all of my turning outboard, including deep hollow forms, and have sat myself that way with some deeper forms when my back was complaining. But, had to be mindful not to get the tool tangled up inside the form and have the handle whack me in the ear...

So, I'm not sure I would recommend inexperienced turners to do it that way. At least with the handle tucked under the arm the most you are going to get is bruised ribs or the piece hoicked off the lathe...

Yeah had a few close shaves with that too

 

[Edward Kerslake]

This is an old post, but I just found it and thoughtI would add my experience.

I've been using the Munro tools for close to 2 decades in the smaller sizes (old style) and about 6 months ago added the 3/4" size,
The comments about clogging are valid in green wood, less of an issue in partly dry or dry wood.

I bought the 3/4" to go with a Bosch Hollowing stabilizer that I bought - What a revelation! It's a really, really good pairing.

I now use the Bosch carbide tool for removing the bulk wood removal, mounted in his stabilizer. The Munro I still like a LOT. The articulated nature of the munro means that you can really get in to tight corners and the ability to rotate into the cut (if you don't LOCK it into the Bosch stabilizer) really helps.

So, do I think the munro is worth it - heck yes, Much easier than a bunch of different angle tools. But, WOW, the bare carbide cutter on Trent's tool sure removes wood fast and it's a no-brainer as a way to start (and the tools are inexpensive compared to others)

 

[hughie]

This is an old post, but I just found it and thoughtI would add my experience.

I've been using the Munro tools for close to 2 decades in the smaller sizes (old style) and about 6 months ago added the 3/4" size,
The comments about clogging are valid in green wood, less of an issue in partly dry or dry wood.

I bought the 3/4" to go with a Bosch Hollowing stabilizer that I bought - What a revelation! It's a really, really good pairing.

I now use the Bosch carbide tool for removing the bulk wood removal, mounted in his stabilizer. The Munro I still like a LOT. The articulated nature of the munro means that you can really get in to tight corners and the ability to rotate into the cut (if you don't LOCK it into the Bosch stabilizer) really helps.

So, do I think the munro is worth it - heck yes, Much easier than a bunch of different angle tools. But, WOW, the bare carbide cutter on Trent's tool sure removes wood fast and it's a no-brainer as a way to start (and the tools are inexpensive compared to others)

Yes I agree totally, I have the two I would recommend the Rolly Munro and the Pro Forme as a must for those interested in serious hollowing.

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

Why does it seem so much innovation in woodturning comes from New Zealand and Australia?

 

[hughie]

Why does it seem so much innovation in woodturning comes from New Zealand and Australia?

No doubt there a number of factors. But some that come to mind are a high percentage of turners have an engineering background, there is something of a 'can do' attitude amongst many folk here and we have some very argumentative tree species that demand way more of us the many species overseas. The desert Ironwood you have is quite hard, around 3065 on the Janka scale. Some of the species down under run a bit higher Buloke 5060, Inland Rosewood (Acacia rhodoxylon) 4560, Ironbark would comparable to your Ironwood. I rarely have much under 3000, ok its my choice but they are not hard to come by.