Tool handles

[Rusty Nesmith]

I needed some more tool handles for some tools I am making. The cheapest adapters are $22. I had a piece of 1” aluminum round bar in my tool box from where I used to work. I was a beater bar to tap bearings and things you didn’t want to damage. I cut the mushroomed ends off and got two 12” pieces. I drilled the appropriate hole in the end for the tool, and drilled and taped two holes for the Allen screws. Then I put a piece of bicycle tire tube to make it comfortable. Really happy with how they turned out. Put a scraper I made in this one and the balance was really nice. I can but two 1” by 11” aluminum bars for under $20. I might be making more of these in the future.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

Clever use of the inner tube. A lifetime ago, I worked in a bicycle shop for a few seasons. We used cheap hairspray (Aquanet?) as a lube to put hadlebar grips on the bars. After a healthy shot of hairspray into the grip, you had about 5 seconds to get the grip in place before the shellac in the spray grabbed ahold of the bar like superglue. It would probably work well with the inner tube, too.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

Clever use of the inner tube. A lifetime ago, I worked in a bicycle shop for a few seasons. We used cheap hairspray (Aquanet?) as a lube to put hadlebar grips on the bars. After a healthy shot of hairspray into the grip, you had about 5 seconds to get the grip in place before the shellac in the spray grabbed ahold of the bar like superglue. It would probably work well with the inner tube, too.

If it doesn’t stay in place I will have to try that, thanks.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

If anyone is thinking of trying rubber inner tube as grip material, here is a generic sizing chart. Circled in red, the numbers 18 to 32 refer to the tube range diameter in millimeters, same tube fitting tires in that size range. Stop at a local bike shop and buy one of each of the 700x18-25 and 25-32. Should be plenty of rubber for a few handles of different sizes. Tubes are generally butyl (if I recall), but in recent years other materials have come to market. Admittedly, I'm not as well versed in this gear as I was a few decades ago.

 

[Bill Alston]

I’ve used thick wall Aluminium Tube for some of my handles. I cover them with plastic hose pipe to make them more comfortable.
Grip is surprisingly good, the clear reinforced hose being a bit better. Not my idea, I just copied the idea from some commercial handles I saw on the net.

Five with ER collet chucks and three with shop made ferrules:

 

[Gregory Hickman]

I haven't seen anyone collet nut like you have on number 4 and 5 (from either side). Do you prefer it over the others? Have a link to where you got them from? Very nice looking handles btw, @Bill Alston .

Gregory

 

[Bill Alston]

ER collet chucks normally come with one of three types of nut. I’ve used both A and M types and found finger tight is good enough that I’ve never needed to resort to using a spanner.

A random picture from eBay.



Give me a while and I’ll find some more information I have filed away, and I’ll try and find a link for you of the general type I’ve bought in the past.
These things used to be incredibly cheap at under £7 each but the price has gone up since Covid. You also need collets for them as well. The smaller sizes were about £2 each, not sure how much they are now?

 

[Lou Jacobs]

Stop at a local bike shop and buy one of each of the 700x18-25 and 25-32.

My guess is that most bike shops would be more than happy to give you old punctured tubes that they’d otherwise throw out. I patch tubes on our bikes a couple of times before replacing them. Rubber is usually still in great shape for alternative uses.

 

[Bill Alston]

I haven't seen anyone collet nut like you have on number 4 and 5 (from either side). Do you prefer it over the others? Have a link to where you got them from? Very nice looking handles btw, @Bill Alston .

Gregory

Ok, here’s a link. You can get them much cheaper but I’ve chosen this as it shows the sizes nicely.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30501427...lG1tD/ReZCu8+99fTc2cAtbg==|tkp:Bk9SR4rlld-KZQ

This represents the sizing.

 

[Ricc Havens]

I do the same as what Bill above does with the vinyl tubing from a hardware store. You can also find on amazon and other sports store - self-fusing silicone grip tape to wrap around the handle. The collet chucks look interesting but on a disability income they are not in my budget. So I just drill and tap the aluminum for a couple set screws.

 

[Bill Alston]

I should add that I only use these chucks for tools with relatively small shanks as I like them to go into the handle a bit further for security.
The bore of the C16 type is only 10mm so I sometimes open these up to 13mm so I can use larger tools. The chucks are made from quite hard steel so they’re not that easy to enlarge.
You could of course go up to the C20 size. I’m not sure what the bore is of these though?

 

[John K Jordan]

I needed some more tool handles for some tools I am making. The cheapest adapters are $22.

Nice idea!

I posted about this recently, but if anyone missed it and is interested in making adapters to use with a wood handle, I wrote a document for a demo on turning metals on the wood lathe with woodturning tools, gouge, skew, parting tool. It's not real fast but it's not difficult. (I prefer wood handles) The thread is in the Tutorials section but here's the PDF file.

https://www.aawforum.org/community/attachments/turning-metal-on-the-wood-lathe_10b-pdf.67357/

Start with a short piece of aluminum rod, drill a center hole, shape with various tools, then drill/tap for set screws.
Of course you might have more than $22 in time making it, but you can custom make it to suit you.


I usually use a metal-turning lathe when making these, especially when they are large, but [gasp!] it appears not everyone has one in their shop!
I've had several students make one.

JKJ

 

[Gregory Hickman]

Ok, here’s a link. You can get them much cheaper but I’ve chosen this as it shows the sizes nicely.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305014276930?_skw=C16+ER25+100L+chuck&itmmeta=01JHAZ5E9X7XSCVB1TTG3C01ZY&hash=item4704448342:g:RL0AAOSwDApmTDPR&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx+KZ9MfhVJKn3RZyWCM31R3rM5WqSvcO7qrmmtlCmUm9VmgAaVxvhs/ccw3b02bwf7SM5ROLTOJNxeEvOEkWqR0tt6zn1VypIDmGyAMqSqSD7q7KZojDoUQQHrwJaXgOApQCtmccl7jLRZIVoUYCKnxGCa2oE+wQt6PZv+3Yu08Jqj7/v730J0x37MSaR3/N2Yt/Xy/0CcdEmeutjYLu0qt7YHAxvVyRuBDkRofXZWv2boyFjNf8PTRNxRV13KLzbmM9q8qgHkQ+lr+wjQNG02Ou8EJ7s+RlG1tD/ReZCu8+99fTc2cAtbg==|tkp:Bk9SR4rlld-KZQ

This represents the sizing.

View attachment 70953

Thanks for this link I appreciate it. I realize that the series choice am reduce the overall dimensions of the nut. Do you use one series, as to minimize collet variations owned, or do you get the smallest series that fits the tool intended. Such as ER11 (1/4"), ER16 (3/8"), ER20 (1/2"), and ER25 (5/8") this approach would make sense to me. A larger handle could accommodate any tool, but the reduced size would be nice.

Gregory

 

[Gregory Hickman]

Nice idea!

I posted about this recently, but if anyone missed it and is interested in making adapters to use with a wood handle, I wrote a document for a demo on turning metals on the wood lathe with woodturning tools, gouge, skew, parting tool. It's not real fast but it's not difficult. (I prefer wood handles) The thread is in the Tutorials section but here's the PDF file.

https://www.aawforum.org/community/attachments/turning-metal-on-the-wood-lathe_10b-pdf.67357/

Start with a short piece of aluminum rod, drill a center hole, shape with various tools, then drill/tap for set screws.
Of course you might have more than $22 in time making it, but you can custom make it to suit you.
View attachment 70963 View attachment 70966

I usually use a metal-turning lathe when making these, especially when they are large, but [gasp!] it appears not everyone has one in their shop!
I've had several students make one.

JKJ

Alas i too do not own a metal lathe. I've spent many hours behind the controls of one in the past. Add a milling machine and i would have a boat load of fun. I will be looking into machining these on my wood lathe at least one.

Gregory

 

[Bill Alston]

Gregory, I’ve used mostly ER20 and ER25. One of them in the picture is an ER16 though.

I make my own ferrules on my MW lathe as they are not available over here like in the US. It should not be difficult to make Aluminium ones on a wood turning lathe though. Take it slow and easy. A drill press would be handy for the locking screw if you have one.

These are a couple I made some years ago, I can’t remember what size they are. One was for a club member who supplies me with wood from time to time. The Matt finish on the lower part is from Sand Blasting. I do this sometimes just to give the Epoxy a better grip when I glue them in to a wooden handle.

 

[Gregory Hickman]

@Bill Alston I plan on looking at making those as well. Trying to decide which I'm going to prefer is key. Being able to remove the chisel to sharpen is supposedly easier. If that is the case the ER collet might be easier. The ferrule you've shown would make more sense of not removing the chisel. Do much to think on....

Gregory

 

[Bill Alston]

As others have said, I also find sharpening much easier without the handle. Ferrules are fine, you only need to undo one or two screws.
If you can get Aluminium rod at a fair price and can make them yourself Ferrules are a good idea in my opinion. You can also make them as fancy as you like. Look at these commercial handles with Ferrules.

Hope Deluxe Grub Screw Handles Archives - Hope Woodturning

Find a video about the handles on: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKJAqbbVz5w

www.hopewoodturning.co.uk

 

[Gregory Hickman]

As others have said, I also find sharpening much easier without the handle. Ferrules are fine, you only need to undo one or two screws.
If you can get Aluminium rod at a fair price and can make them yourself Ferrules are a good idea in my opinion. You can also make them as fancy as you like. Look at these commercial handles with Ferrules.

Hope Deluxe Grub Screw Handles Archives - Hope Woodturning

Find a video about the handles on: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKJAqbbVz5w

www.hopewoodturning.co.uk

I do like the anodized color coding of these ferrules. While I don't have a metal lathe myself, I'm not against turning them on my wood lathe, but i would ask around at my club if anyone has one. I think regardless I'll be making one myself, if i don't mind the screw removal the collets would be moot.

Gregory

 

[Neil S]

I will be looking into machining these on my wood lathe at least one.

Gregory

I've machined mild steel, aluminium and brass on my woodlathe using carbide tips, which is one of the few uses I have for those. You can of course use any tool steel on those materials, but I prefer to keep my good turning tools for wood...

 

[Gregory Hickman]

Question for this that have made their own ferrules. What aluminum did you choose? I'm currently looking at 6061 for it's machinability, and think going extruded should be adequate, as there is a savings over cold finished (double the cost).

I'm looking at getting 1.25" 6061 extruded bar stock. 4 36" pieces are at a 30% discount so I would have a lifetime supply of ferrule material. I surmise that the design is the tool diameter + 1/2", so that size should be good for all the tools I would likely make.

My interests in turning is mostly of small boxes and spindle work. If I ever need a 3/4" or larger tool I'll either buy a commercial handle or a short piece for those few tools. Using Thompson tools as a data source even their largest scrapers and skews only need a 5/8" nose which can easily be machined from that stock. I'd appreciate any input from the group.

Gregory

 

[John K Jordan]

I've machined mild steel, aluminium and brass on my woodlathe using carbide tips, which is one of the few uses I have for those. You can of course use any tool steel on those materials, but I prefer to keep my good turning tools for wood...

I ground HSS scraper into a cutting tip similar to a tool bit on a metal lathe in order to turn steel on the wood lathe.
I wanted to turn some Nova pin jaws down to a specific precise size for a special application.

I didn't have a good way to mount that chuck concentrically onto my metal lathe.



It certainly did the job (slowly) but I don't want to do it again. It made lots of steel needle slivers.

JKJ

 

[Gregory Hickman]

I wanted to turn some Nova pin jaws down to a specific precise size for a special application.

That had to take a lot of patients. Could you not have taken a bolt that fit the chuck, machined it to mount into you metal lathe and then turn the jaws?

Gregory

 

[John K Jordan]

Question for this that have made their own ferrules. What aluminum did you choose? I'm currently looking at 6061 for it's machinability, and think going extruded should be adequate, as there is a savings over cold finished (double the cost).

I use 6061 stock. When I did a demo on turning metals on the wood lathe, I took enough brass and aluminum so everyone interested could take a piece home that day. I buy most of my metal stock from Online Metals. There is no need to get it with a smooth finish since the surface will be cut away anyway, or at least sanded and maybe polished.

I usually buy stock in 24 or 36" lengths but they will usually sell it in 12" lengths or even cut it for a small fee. My weakness is I tend to order significantly more than I currently need so I'll have extra stock on the shelves for future use. My shelves for brass, aluminum, steel, copper, and plastic shelves are starting to get overloaded - I can't understand why...

Be advised if turning brass or copper if it is work hardened it may need to be annealed. (The method of annealing is unlike annealing steel)

Online metals regularly sends me codes for discounts or specials but once I didn't have one so I called and they gave me a code over the phone.

BTW, it may simply be a difference in languages from different parts of the world, but when related to woodturning tool handles, around here I've always heard the term "insert" used for those tool holder with set screws, made to be glued into a large hole in the end of a handle, where "ferrule" was for a relatively thin solid ring or short tube of brass or something else either hammered, pressed, glued, or sometimes crimped onto a turned area of the handle to hold the tool in a tool-shaft sized hole drilled in the end of the handle.

If I search google (from the US) for "tool handle insert" I see is this:
(Hosaluk Handle Insert)


If I search google for "tool handle ferrule" I see this:
(Robert Sorby Brass Ferrule)



No big deal either way, as long as everyone reading understands.
Me, I call what I make with set screws "inserts".
I use "ferrules" on garden tools.

BTW, when drilling the set screw holes the insert can be held in a v-block, but I think it's better to hold it in a small metal vise clamped securely to the drill press table, then slid down an aligned straight edge a little for the second hole.

JKJ

 

[Bill Alston]

Question for this that have made their own ferrules. What aluminum did you choose? I'm currently looking at 6061 for it's machinability, and think going extruded should be adequate, as there is a savings over cold finished (double the cost).

I'm looking at getting 1.25" 6061 extruded bar stock. 4 36" pieces are at a 30% discount so I would have a lifetime supply of ferrule material. I surmise that the design is the tool diameter + 1/2", so that size should be good for all the tools I would likely make.

My interests in turning is mostly of small boxes and spindle work. If I ever need a 3/4" or larger tool I'll either buy a commercial handle or a short piece for those few tools. Using Thompson tools as a data source even their largest scrapers and skews only need a 5/8" nose which can easily be machined from that stock. I'd appreciate any input from the group.

Gregory

I just checked the description of the last lot I bought:

“Solid Aluminium Round Bar is an extruded cylindrical section, which we supply in grade 6082T6 (formerly known as H30 TF). Grade 6082T6 is a relatively hard grade of aluminium, which makes these Aluminium Rods ideal for turning, milling, CNC machining and drilling.”

 

[Charles Cadenhead]

For those of you making your own aluminum handles are you weighting them with sand or shot or leaving the handles empty?

 

[Neil S]

BTW, it may simply be a difference in languages from different parts of the world, but when related to woodturning tool handles, around here I've always heard the term "insert" used for those tool holder with set screws, made to be glued into a large hole in the end of a handle, where "ferrule" was for a relatively thin solid ring or short tube of brass or something else either hammered, pressed, glued, or sometimes crimped onto a turned area of the handle to hold the tool in a tool-shaft sized hole drilled in the end of the handle.

Same down here.
.

 

[Neil S]

For those of you making your own aluminum handles are you weighting them with sand or shot or leaving the handles empty?

Everyone has their own preferences with handle weight.

I like my handles to be long and light. This one is for a 5/8" gouge...

... that's about 9oz

 

[Gregory Hickman]

I'm undecided on what tool lengths will work for me. Since I'm be doing a lot of spindle turning in going to start with 12" handles (for what i build) then adjust if necessary. The mechanics of turning from a chair will be different than standing. The turners dance will be more like a turners rock in the chair.

I've even thought about making adjustable length to handles.i would make the last 3 inches of a traditional handle and thread it into the main body. In addition to that 3 inch section, I would have another 12 inch piece that I could swap out, thereby making a 21 inch to handle. I would have to experiment to make sure it could be crafted to still be rigid. Just a thought I've had, so that i could say hollow a box with the same tool that I make outboard cuts.

Gregory

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

For those of you making your own aluminum handles are you weighting them with sand or shot or leaving the handles empty?

Mine are solid aluminum.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

I just checked the description of the last lot I bought:

“Solid Aluminium Round Bar is an extruded cylindrical section, which we supply in grade 6082T6 (formerly known as H30 TF). Grade 6082T6 is a relatively hard grade of aluminium, which makes these Aluminium Rods ideal for turning, milling, CNC machining and drilling.”

40 years ago I had an o-lllll-d high school shop teacher who couldn't say aluminum. Always great for a laugh watching him try. I can't imagine he'd even try to pronounce aluminium.

 

[Bill Alston]

Re Aluminium: I should say the emphasis (bold type) was a direct cut and paste from the eBay listing.

On the topic of naming things I agree that Ferrule is perhaps not ideal. I can understand why some folks started using the term though. If you compare a handle with one of them glued in, then superficially it looks pretty similar to a standard wooden handle. And although one is thicker than the other and has a set screw they are both metal tubes (as are the ferrules crimped on some cables). They both perform a similar purpose, one directly holds the tool whilst the other supports the wood holding the tool to prevent it cracking.

Words like tool holder or insert are far too ambiguous for me. I think Cindy Drozda has a much better take on the product.
Handle Adapter is a much better name - I must try to use it more often!
In Fact, you can’t get much more descriptive than Aluminum Handle Adaper with Set Screw.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

Re Aluminium: I should say the emphasis (bold type) was a direct cut and paste from the eBay listing.

On the topic of naming things I agree that Ferrule is perhaps not ideal. I can understand why some folks started using the term though. If you compare a handle with one of them glued in, then superficially it looks pretty similar to a standard wooden handle. And although one is thicker than the other and has a set screw they are both metal tubes (as are the ferrules crimped on some cables). They both perform a similar purpose, one directly holds the tool whilst the other supports the wood holding the tool to prevent it cracking.

Words like tool holder or insert are far too ambiguous for me. I think Cindy Drozda has a much better take on the product.
Handle Adapter is a much better name - I must try to use it more often!
In Fact, you can’t get much more descriptive than Aluminum Handle Adaper with Set Screw.


View attachment 70998

Those are the ones I use for my longer handles. I am making some short handle tools and had the solid bar on hand and thought I would try it. I like it so far and can make two handles for what one adapter cost.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

Well I used it for the first time today. Worked very well. I will be making more as I need them.

 

[Bill Alston]

I’ve just seen these Ferrules, they look nice.

 

[Hugh]

Those look pretty interesting.

 

[Gregory Hickman]

I'm curious about the connection to the handle. It would seem that the ability to pass the shaft deep into the handle would be limited to the length of the ferrule, unlike other designs which allow for inserting as deep as you hollow out the handle.

Gregory

 

[Bill Alston]

These Ferrules screw onto a wooden handle. The tool shaft goes as deep as you drill the hole in the handle.
Instructions here:

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/onewaythrdlokrvu.html

 

[hughie]

Clever use of the inner tube. A lifetime ago, I worked in a bicycle shop for a few seasons. We used cheap hairspray (Aquanet?) as a lube to put hadlebar grips on the bars. After a healthy shot of hairspray into the grip, you had about 5 seconds to get the grip in place before the shellac in the spray grabbed ahold of the bar like superglue. It would probably work well with the inner tube, too.

I have used the bicycle wrap on a couple of handles and to date so far so good

 

[John K Jordan]

These Ferrules screw onto a wooden handle. The tool shaft goes as deep as you drill the hole in the handle.
Instructions here:

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/onewaythrdlokrvu.html

Based on the description and photo in the link, It looks like those would fasten quite securely on the handle. And as indicated, they would allow drilling as deep as desired for the tool shaft.

However, for my own use I like the overall diameter of the metal to be closer to the diameter of the tool, more comfortable for my hands and easier to control, especially for fine detail on smaller work.

But one shown above is not nearly as bad as the only inserts I could find to buy when I first started making handles like this! For example, look at the two in this picture for 1/4" diameter tools - I bought the aluminum insert on the right and made the one on the left from steel.



The smaller diameter insert allowed reducing the diameter of the tool at the end and let me hold it more comfortably, especially when using short handles one-handed and for better control of fine detail. The fatter diameter shouldn't matter much to those who usually turn large things and always use both hands on longer handles.

And someone with hand/finger problems may prefer a larger diameter to grip. For that, maybe some texture on the metal would help.

The nice thing about making them myself is I can make them any way I want!
This batch shows some I made from aluminum for 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4" tools.
(I cut very shallow grooves into the part embedded into the wood for better holding with epoxy. I always use two set screws.)



JKJ

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

Based on the description and photo in the link, It looks like those would fasten quite securely on the handle. And as indicated, they would allow drilling as deep as desired for the tool shaft.
View attachment 71978
However, for my own use I like the overall diameter of the metal to be closer to the diameter of the tool, more comfortable for my hands and easier to control, especially for fine detail on smaller work.

But one shown above is not nearly as bad as the only inserts I could find to buy when I first started making handles like this! For example, look at the two in this picture for 1/4" diameter tools - I bought the aluminum insert on the right and made the one on the left from steel.

View attachment 71979

The smaller diameter insert allowed reducing the diameter of the tool at the end and let me hold it more comfortably, especially when using short handles one-handed and for better control of fine detail. The fatter diameter shouldn't matter much to those who usually turn large things and always use both hands on longer handles.

And someone with hand/finger problems may prefer a larger diameter to grip. For that, maybe some texture on the metal would help.

The nice thing about making them myself is I can make them any way I want!
This batch shows some I made from aluminum for 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4" tools.
(I cut very shallow grooves into the part embedded into the wood for better holding with epoxy. I always use two set screws.)

View attachment 71980

JKJ

What tool do you use to cut these.