Swan neck tools

[Andrew Hale]

I’ve been working at turning some high-shouldered jars lately, and that has me shopping for a swan neck or undercut tool(s). I like the relative heft of the Hunter carbide tools, although I’m not sure whether the Badger or the long reach Baron would be the better option. I don’t turn excessively small diameter openings, so I would want to be able to produce a fair interior finish. Also can’t see turning anything deep enough to need a full-tilt hollowing rig - yet. The idea of moving to a carbide insert tool makes me a bit sad as I have been grinding HSS for shaper and moulder knives for over thirty years, feels like I’m cheating. Help Me, please!

 

[Brian Gustin]

Just a thought, but my ellsworth hollowing tools (one which mounts at an angle similar to a swan neck offset) , the HSS cutters are attached to the drilled bar stock with nothing much more than Super Glue.... one might wonder if such a shape as needed would be done in HSS and superglued (or even soldered) in to a socket on a piece of bar stock? if you aren't exactly doing any hollowing, not sure if a hollowing tool would fit the bill?

 

[Andrew Hale]

Just a thought, but my ellsworth hollowing tools (one which mounts at an angle similar to a swan neck offset) , the HSS cutters are attached to the drilled bar stock with nothing much more than Super Glue.... one might wonder if such a shape as needed would be done in HSS and superglued (or even soldered) in to a socket on a piece of bar stock? if you aren't exactly doing any hollowing, not sure if a hollowing tool would fit the bill?

Thanks Brian! Wondering about maneuverability. Without too much whining, I am still recovering from my fourth spinal fusion and my flexibility isn’t what it once was. Trying to give myself an option that lets me keep my feet planted without reaching too far over the lathe bed.

 

[Michael Nathal]

A sliding or swiveling headstock would allow you to to turn without reaching over the lathe bed. In the absence of that, you might want to explore turning in reverse. I know of only one hollowing tool, made by Dway, that is made for turning in reverse. A straight hollowing tool with a swivel head (see Sorby) could work in reverse if the entry hole is large. It could be fitted with a hollowing bit, a scraper, or a negative rake scraper

 

[john lucas]

If your having back issues I would look at a captured bar system. I've been using the new Hunter hook tools (that may be the Baron) in my captured rig to do vessels with a steep shoulder.

 

[Stan Pressner]

A sliding or swiveling headstock would allow you to to turn without reaching over the lathe bed. In the absence of that, you might want to explore turning in reverse. I know of only one hollowing tool, made by Dway, that is made for turning in reverse. A straight hollowing tool with a swivel head (see Sorby) could work in reverse if the entry hole is large. It could be fitted with a hollowing bit, a scraper, or a negative rake scraper

Trent Bosch is happy to make his tools for turning in reverse. My set is done that way.

 

[Andrew Hale]

A sliding or swiveling headstock would allow you to to turn without reaching over the lathe bed. In the absence of that, you might want to explore turning in reverse. I know of only one hollowing tool, made by Dway, that is made for turning in reverse. A straight hollowing tool with a swivel head (see Sorby) could work in reverse if the entry hole is large. It could be fitted with a hollowing bit, a scraper, or a negative rake scraper

I turn on a Jet 1642 with the sliding headstock, and I do move it all down when I’m turning smaller pieces. Here lately, shoving a 100 pound block of cast iron is a bit of a chore!

 

[Andrew Hale]

If your having back issues I would look at a captured bar system. I've been using the new Hunter hook tools (that may be the Baron) in my captured rig to do vessels with a steep shoulder.

Thanks John! Is that the tool with the wide, flat shank? Wondering how that finishes. The Badger seems like it is designed to cut well below center, maybe giving a chance for a cleaner cut?

 

[JeffSmith]

Turning in reverse is n easy way to get more visibility and not require leaning out over the bed. I use a D-Way hollowing tool made for reverse turning for small stuff and use a home-built Jamieson captured rig for the bigger stuff (it can be used n either reverse or standard directions with a little adjustment).

 

[Dennis Weiner]

Here some thoughts for now and for your hollowing future. Someday you may buy a hollowing system like the Jamieson system. It uses 3/4 boring bars. I started with the Ellsworth then went to the Dennis Stuart Bars which are also 3/4”. They fit my hollowing system. I can use them for manual hollowing and captured system hollowing. I can fit the Jamieson swivel assembly on the Stuart bar! the swivel system also is adjustable expanding your under the lid range. The swivel accessory uses $2 HSs cutters or carbide. So I know you like that. All in all you will need a few different bars. So draw out the pieces your making to life size and figure out the curve you will need for the hook to reach every part of the piece. 3/4” is fairly common diameter for a bar. Shop around. Tool. Buying is fun.

 

[Bill Blasic]

I use my articulate hollowing systems a lot more than my captured system. Regardless of which system I'm using I have adapters like 3/4" to 5/8", 3/4" to 1/2", etc. The Hunter Baron tools are great as they give you more reach under the shoulder and coupled with the system laser to know where you are make it so easy. The nice thing about using hollowing system with a bad back is for me no contortions to control the cutting, all the cuts go down towards the headstock and toward my body standing parallel to the bed and I prefer the laser as I'm always looking at the piece.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Another option is to make your own hollowing tools. Not difficult if you have some experience with grinding and filing/scraping a relatively flat surface (for carbide insert mounts). Need a drill press for the drilling/tapping. I can bend up to 1/2” bar (big enough for undercutting forms up to ~12” dia, larger with light cuts) using a propane torch and end wrenches. A 4” hand grinder does the heavy removal. I’ve made all of my hand held hollowing tools, probably 10 of them - different dia, length, swan bends. Mild steel bar is all that is used by all of the tool mfrs. Its the different tips that have to be carbide/tool steel.

 

[hockenbery]

Like @Doug Freeman said. You can make your own hollowing tools or buy a Jamison handle and build a back rest.

I got my Jamison handle from craft supplies years before Jamison was selling backrests. It came with a plan for a backrest made from plywood. 23 years later that plywood backrest has traveled all across the county and is still working.

there are lots of patterns for back rests.
here is one https://woodturningonline.com/making-your-own-hollowing-rig/