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Straight off the gouge...no sanding

Here is a finish off the gouge, no sanding...

After 50mins.jpg

The wood is Allocasuarina luehmannii, commonly known as buloke (or bull-oak) down our way. That finish is from a tungsten carbide gouge after 50 minutes of turning. The bevel tip angle is 42.5°
 
Agreed. The outside is pretty much done from the tool. Even after silky soft nrs work, I have to employ a few passes of 320grit minimum.
Well... you don't  have to. I'd challege anyone to go all the way through your normal finishing without touching abrasives (unless required by your finish choice for mechanical bonding). Try it on a couple small projects just for fun. Could be a learning experience, and/or you might like the look- it might add to the conversation as people give their "ooo's and ahhs".

And to answer the inevitable question, no, I've never done that myself.
 
You are correct Holmes and Richard, a nasty crack developed and I stopped before the inside looked good.

However, I accept the challenge and I will post my next bowl inside and out with no abrasives, straight off the gouge.
 
To be clear, I was asking about your opinion on the grind rather than questioning your skill. I tried the 40/40 and moved on because it was too limiting for the transition and bottom areas of the bowl interior and I also didn't like the relatively short wings for roughing pull cuts. The 40/40 seems to be optimized for push cuts on the bowl exterior, and it is undeniably the best at that operation, but I don't like switching tools constantly and don't want to buy two or three gouges in each of two or three sizes to have different bevel angle options for exterior, interior transition, and bottom.
 
I use two gouges for most work. I have what I call a 40/45. I like longer wings. I like the finish off of a 40 degree nose. I have another gouge ground at 55 to get through those tight places a 40/45 won't. Fot very steep bowls where those wo t work and you can't ride the bevel I use the Hunter Badger cupped carbide as a bevel riding tool. I prefer it to a bottom feeder gouge.
 
Well this was more of a challenge than I expected.

I use a 1x30” belt sander and the angle gauge says 38* so it’s not quite 40/40.

I don’t have a 70* bottom gouge so you are correct the interior was more difficult.

Here it is 4” high OD 11”. 1/2” bowl gouge only. No NRS no abrasive.
 

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I use two gouges for most work. I have what I call a 40/45. I like longer wings. I like the finish off of a 40 degree nose. I have another gouge ground at 55 to get through those tight places a 40/45 won't. Fot very steep bowls where those wo t work and you can't ride the bevel I use the Hunter Badger cupped carbide as a bevel riding tool. I prefer it to a bottom feeder gouge.
So, a 40/45 asymmetric grind?
 
Well this was more of a challenge than I expected.

I use a 1x30” belt sander and the angle gauge says 38* so it’s not quite 40/40.

I don’t have a 70* bottom gouge so you are correct the interior was more difficult.

Here it is 4” high OD 11”. 1/2” bowl gouge only. No NRS no abrasive.
So... For the record, I don't advocate skipping NRS.

I have many bowls that came directly from NRS inside and tool outside. I love the feel and look. But when I have a feather burl, I take the inside past 1000 grit after sander sealer and schlack.
 
So, a 40/45 asymmetric grind?
No not asymetric. And actually it measures 38 on the nose. I set my tool rest to 40 but i find that because the 8" wheel slopes away i get a 38 degree nose. The wings are ground by swinging the tool 45 degrees or slightly more to each side. I grind it like you would a 40/40 but add my own touch because I prefer longer wings.
 
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