Agreed. The outside is pretty much done from the tool. Even after silky soft nrs work, I have to employ a few passes of 320grit minimum.Holmes makes a great point. You'll get the accolades you want when you show the inside of the bowl looking like that. LOL
Well... you don't have to. I'd challege anyone to go all the way through your normal finishing without touching abrasives (unless required by your finish choice for mechanical bonding). Try it on a couple small projects just for fun. Could be a learning experience, and/or you might like the look- it might add to the conversation as people give their "ooo's and ahhs".Agreed. The outside is pretty much done from the tool. Even after silky soft nrs work, I have to employ a few passes of 320grit minimum.
So, a 40/45 asymmetric grind?I use two gouges for most work. I have what I call a 40/45. I like longer wings. I like the finish off of a 40 degree nose. I have another gouge ground at 55 to get through those tight places a 40/45 won't. Fot very steep bowls where those wo t work and you can't ride the bevel I use the Hunter Badger cupped carbide as a bevel riding tool. I prefer it to a bottom feeder gouge.
So... For the record, I don't advocate skipping NRS.Well this was more of a challenge than I expected.
I use a 1x30” belt sander and the angle gauge says 38* so it’s not quite 40/40.
I don’t have a 70* bottom gouge so you are correct the interior was more difficult.
Here it is 4” high OD 11”. 1/2” bowl gouge only. No NRS no abrasive.
No not asymetric. And actually it measures 38 on the nose. I set my tool rest to 40 but i find that because the 8" wheel slopes away i get a 38 degree nose. The wings are ground by swinging the tool 45 degrees or slightly more to each side. I grind it like you would a 40/40 but add my own touch because I prefer longer wings.So, a 40/45 asymmetric grind?