StopLossBags?

[Mark Jundanian]

What's the verdict on StopLossBags? Are they good, bad or indifferent?

My little 4 oz can of Osmo Polyx-Oil is now half empty, but has skinned over twice. So I've lost confidence in the remaining contents. I'm thinking of getting a .5 liter can of the Osmo TopOil next, but I don't want it to go half to waste, too. So I thought I'd try the StopLossBags. Just looking at the product I'm a little concerned that the floppy bags won't be so easy to fill with that floppy funnel. I'm also thinking that decanting a quantity of finish might be messy. Got any real world experience to share?

 

[William Rogers]

I use them. Messy, somewhat. However no real loss of product. I have the funnel attached to the side of a cabinet just the right height for the bag to sit underneath it when filling. I finally figured out the best way to squeeze the air out was to put the cap on loose, then tighten the cap. I will keep using them. Not sure why, but they say not to put lacquer in them.

 

[Tim Connell]

I've used them for years primarily with polymerized tung oil. No loss of product after about 14 months. That's the longest I've had any stored before I used it all up. I don't use the Stop Loss funnel, I use a smaller rigid body funnel. If you are careful, no real mess, at least that can't be cleaned up with a paper towel with a little solvent.

Most of my use is squeezing an ounce or less into a little 1 oz plastic "pill cup". No mess, easy to squeeze air out after dispensing. I do get buildup on the threads, but that's because I'm too lazy to always wipe them clean.

 

[Daniel Henry]

Mark, I'm in complete agreement with William and Tim. I got tired of losing finish to the skim on the top. I definitely recommend the funnel that can be bought with the bag.

 

[Brian Gustin]

I use them too, have had no problems, even with gloss lacquer finish, they make it easy to re-mix before pouring out what you need, as well, and go a long way to help minimizing losses.

 

[Ron Solfest]

Been using them (and reusing) them for years for DO, poly, WOP, and a couple other finishes. Highly recommended.

 

[Bill Blasic]

Steve Sinner went from losing at least a third of a can of Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane to no loss at all with Stop Loss Bags. That was a good enough reason for me to start using them.

 

[Michael Nathal]

Specifically for Osmo: 1. I have had to skim off the hardened layer a couple times on my large can. The product below the layer still seems to be good. 2. I switched to a Stop Loss bag and its working fine.

 

[john lucas]

I've been using one for several years now. Very effective. I used to throw away half a can of Minwax wipe on poly every time. Now I use it all. I built this rig to help me fill the bag. I use a small funnel to fill it.

 

[Roger Wiegand]

Very happy with them. Used to have a heck of a time with Waterlox varnish polymerizing in the can, it's been two years in a stoploss bag with no problem. A miracle product from my point of view. I've been re-using the original bags for the better part of a decade now. The caps do seem subject to breaking, I bought a set of spare caps; much cheaper than new bags.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Been using the bags for 3-4 years and also find they work very well. Mainly use them for poly.

The rubber funnel works well. Its designed to work with a std qt size metal can. If The specific product can has a different OD then it may not work. I let the funnel hang for a few days after use and the dried finish comes right off.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

How do people reuse the bags? Do you leave the residue and refill the bag with the same product? If not, how do you clean the bag?

 

[GRJensen]

I'm another happy StopLoss bag user! Well worth the money.

 

[Tom Lucas]

I use them and like them. Seem to work as advertised. I use a gas lantern funnel to fill. I clean the funnel with a little acetone on a rag wetted thru the funnel.

 

[William Rogers]

How do people reuse the bags? Do you leave the residue and refill the bag with the same product? If not, how do you clean the bag?

I don’t clean them. I just refill with the same product. There is very little in the bag when I refill. Same bag used multiple times.

 

[Daniel Henry]

How do people reuse the bags? Do you leave the residue and refill the bag with the same product? If not, how do you clean the bag?

I keep VM&P Naphtha in a spray bottle primarily for mist dusting between finishing coats. I spray a little into the stop loss bag, replace the cap, swirl around the bag, reclaim the VM&P, a bit of compressed air into the bag, and set it aside. In a few minutes the bag is dry and ready for the next fill.

 

[Gary Beasley]

I've been using one for several years now. Very effective. I used to throw away half a can of Minwax wipe on poly every time. Now I use it all. I built this rig to help me fill the bag. I use a small funnel to fill it.

That would be good to store the filled bags if there were hangars to fit that can be hung on perf board.

 

[robo hippy]

I met a local turner some years ago, and he had the 'frugal' method for the Stop Loss bags. He used the plastic bags from inside the boxed wine cases. Other than that, Bloxygen is supposed to work well. I would go for the bag myself. I would expect there to be something similar for the food industry, like piping bags for icing....

robo hippy

 

[Tom Gall]

Specifically for Osmo: 1. I have had to skim off the hardened layer a couple times on my large can. The product below the layer still seems to be good. 2. I switched to a Stop Loss bag and its working fine.

Another option - store the can/container upside down. The hardened layer will be at the bottom of the can - no need to skim.

 

[Dan Olsen]

I started out using "wine bags" at $15 each. They worked fine. I've kept Watco Danish Oil for several years in them. I looked at StopLoss bags and being a cheap old bugger . . . I looked elsewhere. Try searching for "Drink Flasks" and take a look. Mostly come with their own funnels and in packs of 6 to 20. Make sure you look at the volume. 250 ml is about 1 cup, 1 liter about 1 quart.
The current ones that I'm using are "Shappy" brand, but I think all of them are about the same. Here's one that I found that seem a good deal to me and have a good rating (4.6 - which accounts for the wackos and whiners who'd complain if "they were hung with a new rope").
16oz Drink Flasks - Reusable qty 20
I usually am finishing a small bowl or spindle and I only need a couple tablespoons of finish. I usually use condiment cups with caps that I pick up at Wally Whirled like these
Walmart disposable condiment cups
I think there'd be a market for finishes which came in boxes like boxed wine . . . but then the finish manufacturers wouldn't sell as much finish or paint . . . .

 

[Mark Jundanian]

I think there'd be a market for finishes which came in boxes like boxed wine . . . but then the finish manufacturers wouldn't sell as much finish or paint . . . .

That's a great idea.

 

[Gord Cameron]

I decant every can of finish into a StopLoss bag as soon as I first open the can. Here is another tip: I use jumbo plastic syringes (from Amazon). These too avoid product loss, though they only hold 4-5 oz, so I tend to use them on a project-specific basis. The syringes are great for applications where you are wiping on--you can drizzle the finish to a precise location in a controlled volume.

 

[Dean Center]

Here is another tip: I use jumbo plastic syringes (from Amazon).

Be aware that some syringes have silicone in the "rubber" part of the plunger, which can cause fish eyes in your finish.

 

[Walter Mooney]

Sorry to be a bit late to the party for this, but I store all of my finishes upside down. It works! I’ve been doing it for years with my latex interior wall paints (for the house, not turnings!), and a few years ago I started doing it with my woodturning finishes. I use the finish, and, if it’s in a ‘paint can’ type thing, pound the lid in and turn It over in a paper plate. If it doesn’t leak in a short time, I put it on the shelf. If it leaks, I turn it upright, leave it overnight (so whatever’s in the rim will dry), then turn it upside down and put it on the shelf. If it’s in a can with a twist-off cap (like Watco or Waterlox), I twist the cap on as tight as I can and turn it upside down. In either container, the liquid at the lid prevents air exchanges, which keeps the finish viable.
In the last few months, I’ve taken to storing my spray can finishes upside down as well. I know many of you have experienced the situation where you have a spray can of something that you’ve had for quite a while, and you go to use it — you shake it, you attempt to spray, and nothing comes out. The finish is still in the can, the propellant is gone! If stored upside down, the liquid finish would be at ’the bottom’ and the propellant would be trapped above it in what is normally the bottom of the can!
Those of you who don’t have/use Stop-Loss bags, try it. I doubt you’ll be disappointed.

 

[Dave Hulett]

love Stop Loss bags. been using them for 5 or 6 years primarily for polyurethane and have never had anything skin over and it's easy to pour out just enough for your current use. A tip for those who use it. When I'm finished pouring or filling you need to squeeze the bag to remove any air trapped inside. I found a way to make this very easy. I set them inside my bench vise and tighten the vise very slowly until all the air is gone. Then put on the cap and your done.