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Stihl MS271 Predicament

Dave Delo

Dave Delo

Joined
Oct 3, 2013
Messages
170
Likes
230
Location
Ambridge, PA
Bought this chainsaw with a 20" bar on Tuesday night from the closest Stihl dealer near me. Wednesday morning I proceeded to cut a 3' x 19" cherry log piece that been sitting out back for a couple years. Wanted to just break it up into loadable pieces to take to the dump. After cross cutting a 6" piece off the end, discovered the heartwood was still in near pristine condition. Decided to salvage it into a bowl blank. Cross cut went without any problems but as you see in the picture, the rip cut bound the chain up tight. Took the bar & chain off, cleaned everything up and was able to the rest of the cut completed. Took the saw back to the dealer and showed what happened and that I was concerned the oiler wasn't working properly. This saw does not have and adjustment for the oiler. They said the oiler was clogged, cleaned it up and sent me on my way. Today I tried the saw out on a 15" oak piece. Same results, 2 cross cuts go fine and the bam, saw stops working on the rip cut. Never had this problem before with my 7 year old 50cc Poulan Pro 20" or my Jonsered 71cc 2172 with a 28".

I'm not a tree service professional but not my first rodeo either. Been doing this bowl blank cutting for 10+ years. Allegedly, the stock chain is a semi-chisel type so I'm wondering if a different chain style would work better. The saw does clog up when ripping so maybe it's clogging up and preventing oil to reach the chain. I'm thinking maybe a skip tooth design would be a better choice. Did I buy a lemon or this predicament have a simple fix? The guy I bought this from is off until tomorrow so I'm told I have to deal with him about any replacements or refund. Any advice besides buy a Husky is well appreciated.
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1) rip cuts with regular saw chain results in long stringy chips that tangle up and bind in the chain & bar & sprocket - Better to get a spare chain and then grind it (or have it ground) to a 5 degree top angle (instead of 25 or 30 degree) and the rakers filed to .020 - that'd make you a rip chain (basically) and as mentioned, safety chain with rakers don't do well with rip cuts (or any cut where the bar tip does not extend through the log) Rip cuts are FAR harder on a chainsaw (even with ripping chain) than crosscuts, also. Even with my modified chain (ground to rip cut angles) I still get long strings of wood that tangle up in the clutch and sprocket drum and bind the chain, so I have to stop and clean out every so often. Works better if I don't have the saw "buried" in the wood (so that I have a couple inches of bar sticking out on the powerhead end) as that allows more of the stringy chips to exit down and out instead of having to go through the clutch cover (which leads to the tangles and jams)

In other words, problem isn't the saw itself, it's the fact that regular bar and chain are not designed for rip cuts - if you can find it (or special order at dealer) a good rip chain would give far better results - and 20 inch is about the max for a MS271 - You'd probably also want a bit (a lot, actually - the more the better) more power than that if you are gonna do a lot of ripping cuts. (and a more powerful saw will probably take standard 3/8 professional chain instead of low profile homeowner chains)
 
I have a MS270 (same saw, just older) with 18" bar. I almost always run full complement, full chisel, "yellow package" (prosumer, not "green" aka "safety" aka low kickback aka "don't cut worth crap" chain).
I don't have any problem with the oiler clogging, but a sharp chain in green wood does fill up the clutch area with long, wet, stringy chips.
It could clog up the oiler I guess if the chips got packed up by the bar. Or there could be something messed up where the oiler meets the bar that's making it clog easily.
You should be able to point the bar or a running saw at something (wood, ground, your wife's car) and see an oil streak from the oil flying off the chain as it whizzes around the bar tip.
 
Richard,
I'm not that familiar with the Sthil nomenclature for what a particular chain is or isn't. The stock chain is an 26RS that they term as a semi chisel. Are you suggesting the Rapid Super Full version?
 
Dave,

I'm getting oil on cardboard box after cleaning everything up. The cherry log I tried was dryer that a popcorn fart. The oak was semi-wet. I think I'm going to switch to a full chisel and see what happens. Thank you
 
Brian,

Thanks for your input. Much of what you said is known to me. Just never had this much of a problem with either one of my gas saws. Even my 18" Oregon electric (which I use more than anything else) does a better job. Thanks
 
When I rip I watch the out flow with one eye. Pulling the saw back 3-4 inches seems to clear the shavings. Then let if feed forward as it cuts.
Also if they don’t clear stop the cutting and pull them out. Using this I don’t have the clog build to where the bar has to be removed to clear the clog.

I have a ripping chain but almost never use it. These are more prone to kickback and not recommended for novices.
 
When you make your rip cut.......get the bar to cut at an angle......either up or down. The shavings will be much smaller then.
Never hurts to pull the bar out and clear shavings too.
But, be careful when you do go clean the shavings from the saw. There is a sharp chain there. Wants to cut. Keep your finger away from the trigger too.
 
Dave, I have had that exact saw for years, including using the standard/safety green chain. It's good on crosscuts, but can struggle with rip cuts. If the saw is actually oiling, then 2 things may be at play.

First, the motor is underpowered for the 20" bar. Some Stihl dealers will sell it with that bar, but some won't. That's the bar that came with the saw when I bought it, but I didn't realize the issue until later. This is especially noticable on full length rip cuts. Getting the saw into a tilted position really helps with the rip cuts. Nose down seems to work better than nose up for me, but both help.

Second, the housing around the sprocket fills up with rip material, especially green wood, very quickly. This saw specifically does not shed rip shavings well, compared with other brands of saws. (Don't know about other Stihl models) You can see the built up shavings in the openings on the underside of the housing, but what you don't see unless you look, is in the top front opening. When you've been ripping for a little while, inside the housing and around the sprocket where you can't see, sticky shavings pack in and make it really hard for the saw to cut. If you take the housing off, (just like for replacing the chain) you can see what I'm describing. Because the shavings are hidden, just pulling out shavings from the lower openings doesn't solve the whole problem.

Last possibility is that the chain is not sharp. Seems unlikely, but with a sharp chain, the sucker goes through wood like a hot knife through butter. Appropriately sized wood, anyway. (Why are all logs I want to rip through the pith 22-24" long???)
 
Dave Delo said:
They said the oiler was clogged, cleaned it up and sent me on my way
Click to expand...
I have a "pro" series stihl with an 18 inch bar. I don't know about the 271 bar, but my bar has small oil inlet ports in the bar that directs oil into the grooves or rails. With heavy use these inlet ports will clog. The oiler still pumps oil but the oil doesn't get where it is needed.
 
I do not have that saw but I use semi chisels on both of my saws and have no problems. I have an ms250 with an 18 inch bar and ms391 with a 25 inch bar. Are you cutting straight down with the entire chain in contact at one time? I find if i am cutting something close to the length of my bar i rock the saw back side then nose side to only cut with half the bar. By the way for anyone looking for a good cheaper chain i have been buying 8ten chains off amazon for a fraction of the price of sthil chains and they seem to last just as long before needing sharpening. A 4 pack only cost me a little more then one sthil chain.
 
Dean,

Thanks for very good info. I went with this saw because my Poulan Pro (same bar length and cc's) finally gave up the ghost after about 7 years. Never had a problem with it clogging up like this so I figured another 50cc machine would be good enough. Hate getting my big saw out and trying to use that for everyday use because it so heavy. Technique wise, Ernie Conover has a youtube video on chainsaw safety and he prepares a 24" log into bowl blanks using a Stihl saw with a 25" bar without issues. His technique is pretty much the way I've always approached ripping blanks. Not sure what style chain he has on the rig but the type of ribbons he's getting is what I'm used to. My only previous issue is trying to stay concentrated on the cut and kicking out the pile of shavings so the new shavings have a place to go.
 
Dave, I've got the exact same saw/bar length only mine is a few years older and I've had some similar problems in the past when using the stock, anti kickback chain. I don't run that chain anymore, I use the 26RS 81 Rapid Super Chainsaw chain now. Many/most dealers around here don't keep that chain in stock, but they can all order the chains for you. BTW Amazon and others sell that chain, often cheaper than dealers.

Suggestions mentioned above are all worth following, the outflow can clog very easily and needs to be watched/cleared regularly with rip cuts. The saw is underpowered for 20" rip cuts, but works just fine for me on cross cuts. Keep in mind though you/we are trying to rip with a cross cut blade so some allowances need to be made.

Additionally, regularly check blade tightness, as a loose blade can allow fine shavings to get into the bar rail, and clog the star roller at the tip. Both of these things can cause excessive heat and bind the chain.
 
Tim Connell said:
Additionally, regularly check blade tightness, as a loose blade can allow fine shavings to get into the bar rail, and clog the star roller at the tip. Both of these things can cause excessive heat and bind the chain.
Click to expand...
That's usually the culprit when I've had problems with my 15 year old ms291. Being a new saw, and more importantly a new chain, they tend to loosen up. But I think you have a good saw in the Stihl.
 
I use the same saw - older version 270 - the skip tooth stihl chains rip very well for me with no problems. I use the same skip tooth chains for everything. As mentioned, shavings will clog the housing, but its not a problem, just stop to clear once in a while...this saw/chain combo has handled everything I've thrown at it over the last 12 years without a problem - even ripping a 24" cedar log that was about 7 feet long (two passes from opposite sides for a neighbor building a bench a few days ago. Rip at a 45 degree angle to keep the noodles shorter.
 
Hmm..... I have had a Husky, probably 20 years, with a 24 inch bar. When I bought it at the chainsaw store, not the big box store, they asked me what I was going to use it for. When I told them I was cutting up log sections for bowl blanks they convinced me to get a rip chain. Never had problems with it. The only time it clogs is if the pile of shavings on the ground gets as high as the blade and then the shavings from the chain don't clear, and they shoot out off of the top of the bar. I think I have seen the chisel type tooth grind, which was more rectangular rather than round. I use the round files, 3/16?, to sharpen my chains. After a while, the blade starts to drift in the cuts. I now have an Oregon chainsaw sharpener and some CBN grinding wheels from Ken Rizza. Been sanding too much to set it up and use it, at least for now.... Funny thing, I don't seem to have any problems with cross cutting either, other than drifting. I do not like to rock the saw back and forth when cutting since that always leaves a rougher surface rather than a flat one that I can take to my big bandsaw.

robo hippy
 
Dave Delo said:
Richard,
I'm not that familiar with the Sthil nomenclature for what a particular chain is or isn't. The stock chain is an 26RS that they term as a semi chisel. Are you suggesting the Rapid Super Full version?
Click to expand...
I can't find a 26 RS on their chart. As Dave said, a yellow box, or a chain with a yellow link is what you want. Green means low kickback. https://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent.../STIHL-Saw-Chain-Selection-Identification.pdf
 
To minimize clutch choking with curls, I cut off the lower corner on the guard to get a better flow through. I can post a picture if anyone is interested.
2 reasons for a chainsaw drift, 1 is unequal sharpening, the other is a worn or worn out bar. You can square up a bar and get rid of some worn surfaces on a disc sander with a good table. That will extend the life. Another good tip to keep the lubrication flowing down the bar, use a dental pic and run it down the length of the bar groove to clean out the old gunk and dust.
 
Richard Coers said:
the other is a worn or worn out bar. You can square up a bar and get rid of some worn surfaces on a disc sander with a good table. That will extend the life
Click to expand...
In case folks don't know: every time you change chain (or sharpen), flip the bar over. Bars will wear on the bottom (cutting side), flipping it every so often evens out this wear.


Richard Coers said:
use a dental pic and run it down the length of the bar groove to clean out the old gunk and dust
Click to expand...
I use the screwdriver end of my scrench, fits pretty good and is always handy.
 
Richard Coers said:
I like the pick because I can also clean out the bar oil supply hole/
Click to expand...
OK that's a good point. I know I often use compressed air at the shop to clean that hole. I must use something in the field but can't think of it now... gonna have to pay attention next time... and get a dental pick into my saw box if it's better than whatever-it-is that I use...
 
Well, never cleaned the gullet on my Husky, in 25 or so years. I do swap out chains once in a while. I do know that the bar can develop a very nice burr on it from the chain running over it. That should probably be filed off from time to time. I never got cut by it, but one chainsaw shop guy did when he took off my bar. Not sure if the burr is from too much tension on the chain or not. One friend, who used to cut up a lot of firewood kept his chain far more loose than I do mine. I do want a little slack, but not tight enough to pull it up and then it will slap down onto the bar again. They used to tell you to grease the sprocket in the end of the bar, but I haven't done that either. Lost the grease tube.

robo hippy
 
I keep used guitar strings around for clearing small holes. Clip the coiled end and let your imagination run wild. I tend to leave them long. Use with care, the buggers will run through you if you’re not careful.
Earl
 
Richard Coers said:
To minimize clutch choking with curls, I cut off the lower corner on the guard to get a better flow through. I can post a picture if anyone is interested.
2 reasons for a chainsaw drift, 1 is unequal sharpening, the other is a worn or worn out bar. You can square up a bar and get rid of some worn surfaces on a disc sander with a good table. That will extend the life. Another good tip to keep the lubrication flowing down the bar, use a dental pic and run it down the length of the bar groove to clean out the old gunk and dust.
Click to expand...
I have been thinking of doing this myself so I would be interested in seein your modification.
 
Kent Jaffrey said:
I have been thinking of doing this myself so I would be interested in seein your modification.
Click to expand...
You can see the notch from the side. Approximately a 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 cut. This opens a straight line of sight to the bottom of the chain. It's still not a perfect ejection, but much better than from the factory. It doesn't open a dangerous gap to the chain it self, but decide for yourself if this is a safety issue for you. When I'm getting my hands around that zone, the engine is shut off and I'm wearing leather gloves. Personally, I think it's a major improvement.
 

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Just as a follow up to my predicament, there was a solution. In some ways it's kind of a bummer because I really always wanted a Stihl product but this one just didn't fit the bill for me. Dean and Tim's comments kind of convinced me the 271 wasn't maybe the best saw for the application. Agreed it's nice on the cross cuts but has some issues ripping. Anyway, took the saw back for a refund on Friday and ordered a Makita 6100 (61cc with 20" bar) and got delivery last night. Fired it up today and finished where I left off with this log on Thursday afternoon. Ate this log up easily even with the stock safety chain. Not one hint of a ribbon being caught in the case, pretty much clean as a whistle. Not sure if the extra cc's or the design of the cover did the trick, just relieved the problem is solved. Now I can really enjoy a burger & a dog on this great 4th of July.
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