Steel wool blackens my work

[Guy LaRochelle]

Hi everyone. I’m new to the forum so please forgive me if I don’t know all the rules. I have a question today about steel wool. I’ve never used steel wool when turning and thought I’d try it on a sample piece. I used it with a little bit of paste wax and it made my piece black. Now this might be nice at times but if a person doesn’t want this to happen how do you clean the steel wool before using it? Thank you. -Guy

 

[john lucas]

The steel is reacting with the tannic acid in the wood and discoloring the wood. Try wiping with lemon juice to get rid of the color and dont use steel wool anymore. It's fine to use over a goid finish but definitely not on green wood.

 

[Tom Gall]

Try using high quality oil-free steel wool (Liberon #0000) and see if you have the same results (you didn't say what kind of wood you were using). Or try Fiber Wool - no metal. Or a fine grit (white) fiber abrasive pad.

 

[Guy LaRochelle]

Sorry I should have detailed a little more. This wood is dry birch (very dry). The steel wool is Liberon 0000. I assumed it was iron powder in the wool from manufacturing. And I thought there would be a way to clean it before use. Mineral spirits maybe?

 

[Marvin Jones]

I never use steel wool on plain wood. After several coats of finish, I will at times go over the work with wool. The steel fibers embed in the wood.

 

[hockenbery]

Like @john lucas said lemon juice can remove it from bare wood.
Iron is a ebonizing agent for some woods.
May also be some reaction with the wax.

I use the scotchbrite fake steel wool.

 

[Odie]

The steel fibers embed in the wood.

.....and, over time, embedded steel wool will rust and discolor the wood.

I have discontinued using steel wool on wood, for this very reason.

I use the scotchbrite fake steel wool.

Scotchbrite is a good alternative to steel wool, without the drawbacks of steel wool.

-----odie-----

 

[Guy LaRochelle]

Thanks for the info people! -Guy

 

[John Hicks]

Bronze wool is better for turning. Followed by a white, or grey 3m pad works for me. Live edge, forget it.

 

[William Rogers]

I have used steel wool, but no longer use it. Mainly on small pieces. There are commercial sanding paste that work and you can make your own. Any more I just sand or wet sand with a high grit foam backed abrasive.

 

[Richard Coers]

Why steel wool on bare wood? If you must do that, use Scotch-brite or similar synthetic material. But I only use sandpaper on bare wood. Too easy of a chance of picking up a splinter and have a bit of fiber left under the splinter with steel wool or synthetics. Also sweat from your hand is enough to rust steel wool.

 

[Doug Freeman]

I use the Liberon oil free steel wool on bare wood all the time, no rust issues. I use it as the final “buff” before applying finish if I want a higher sheen finish. I use solvent based finishes, no water based. Grey scotchbrite is too coarse and the white pads dont do much on bare wood, though they will help rub out a cured finish.

 

[Drew Sumrell]

I NEVER use steel wool on turnings. Yes, the steel fibers will embed in the wood grain. I always use abrasive pads. Several companies make them. Much better for many uses.

 

[Bill Blasic]

I occasionally use steel wool on my turnings and I have never had a problem with it. I don't have specific places or reasons I use it, I guess now the next time I use it I'll write down why I used it. My only warning is to keep it far away from your grinder as a grinding spark can start it burning.

 

[jffink]

In addition to the previously mentioned annoyances with steel wool use, there is a safety issue. The wool can get caught, either by snagging on a “splinter”, or by wrapping around the work, and then pulling your fingers into the work, possibly injuring you. After one or two such scary catches years ago, fortunately without injury, I stopped using it.

 

[Dave Hulett]

synthetic steel wool available at any hardware, home depot, lowes.