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Sorby ring tool

Not a loser but a pain. I bought one along with another brand that is smaller. They leave a good finish but there is a learning curve if you aren't used to using a ring or hook tool. I found I had to sharpen often and it's a pain. They also tend to clog with big shavings. I started building hook tools after using the ring tool for a while. The hook tool removes wood just as fast, cuts just as clean and doesn't clog.
A far better tool in my opinion is one of the Hunter carbide tools. The scraper tools remove wood very quickly and easily. The bevel rubbing tools leave a finish better than almost any tool I've used. Watch a few of my videos first. Tell me why you are looking at the ring tools and I'll tell you which Hunter tool would be best for you. The Osprey or Hercules are the most versatile tools. I love the #4 or #5 for doing box interior or for the bottom of steep sided bowls.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzrLN8SQ8ms
 
Jamie, I had one of those tools, and sold it here on the form a while back, in favor of the Hunter tool.

It is a great tool if you get used to it, but for me the sharpening was the hard part more than the turning

I'll bet you can find a bunch of videos on sharpening it and so on, and I know Al has mentioned it several times in the past. If he likes it it's got to be a good tool, so there's that to consider.

I really like the Hunter with a #3 tip.
 
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While I've become accustomed to the Rolle Munro, to my thinking the Hunter Tools would be a better choice for bowls or boxes.
What's most important is to get one flavor and stick with it.
If you get in to larger hollow forms, and especially if you do "hand-held" instead of captive, a shielded system like the Rolle Munro has some advantages ONCE YOU GET OVER THE LEARNING CURVE.
 
Question relates to the Hunter tools. (I’m sure this answer is already out there, but I randomly stumbled upon this thread, and…when in Rome).

Which Hunter tool and size is best for doing an endgrain bowl somewhere around 12” diameter and 7-8” deep? I’m having a bit of trouble making sense of the differences. The animal names are great, but it doesn’t help with selection.
 
Thanks John, that helps a lot. I should have watched that video before asking my question! The Hercules does seem pretty versatile.
 
It is surprising how much wood and how fast it can be removed even with the Hunter #1 cutter. Even for a beginner a lot of the Hunter carbides are built with the correct cutting angle like the #1 Stabilizer tool. Other carbides pale in comparison.
 
hughie said:
Ring tools, I prefer and use hook tools. The learning curve is not an issue for me, but clogging is.
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Hook tools do seem very efficient, and I think I'll get on that train eventually. I would love to have a little forge and be able to make my own.

Bill Blasic said:
It is surprising how much wood and how fast it can be removed even with the Hunter #1 cutter. Even for a beginner a lot of the Hunter carbides are built with the correct cutting angle like the #1 Stabilizer tool. Other carbides pale in comparison.
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That is good to know Bill. I think, for me, the beauty of the cupped carbide is the decreased amount of pressure that you need to apply to the wall. I usually go the spindle gouge route for endgrain hollowing (or use a hollowing tool, Jordan's for example), but for something bigger I like the idea of being able to ride the bevel.

Lennart Delin said:
If you want to know more about the ring tool I suggest you look at Ulf Jansson at instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/CkzQmBsIYDz/
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Thanks Lennart. I love Ulf's work for a number of reasons. His use of tempura paint is inspiring. And, he has so many good instagram tutorials on skew and ring tool use. He does make the ring tool look easy to use!
 
R Henrickson said:
See Alan Lacer's handout on making hook tools at http://www.alanlacer.info/downloads-3/
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Sometime in the mid 1990's Alan did a hands on demo (this was after he moved to Minnesota) making the hook tools at a MWA meeting. The resulting hook tool works great but it is not high speed steel and as such does not hold an edge very long.
Mike Hosaluk makes or sells high speed steel hook tools and I believe there was a turner in Montreal selling them as well. Google hook tool and you should also see a German source.
 
One question I have had about them was what metal do you use. On tool rests, we use A2 hardened drill rod, which I think would work fine for hook tools. The problem would be hardening it after you bend it. No clue how to do that. I have heard that the Hosaluk tools are brittle, and if you drop them, they will break. Don't know though.

robo hippy
 
I use concrete nails when I used to demo making hook tools. Easy to anneal , bend, rough sharpen. Then harden followed by tempering and then fine sharpen. They hold an edge really well in green wood. Not as good in dry harder woods. Once the Hunter tools cane out I quit using the hook tools
 
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