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Show us your tool rack/cart
- Thread starter Douglas Ladendorf
- Start date
My sharpening station has both Rikon slow speed and a Tormek T8.
I have the Rikon set up with both the Oneway system and Tormek BGM-100 platforms to utilize the tormek jigs on my Rikon.
I have 120 grit D-way CBN and 180 grit woodturners wonders 4 in 1 wheel on a 1/2 hp rikon slow speed.
To maximize space I have placed the platform on my Kreg mobile router table.
My BGM -100 tormek platforms a moveable via incra T-track slides to allow for lever clearance of the oneway platform clamp.
I have the Rikon set up with both the Oneway system and Tormek BGM-100 platforms to utilize the tormek jigs on my Rikon.
I have 120 grit D-way CBN and 180 grit woodturners wonders 4 in 1 wheel on a 1/2 hp rikon slow speed.
To maximize space I have placed the platform on my Kreg mobile router table.
My BGM -100 tormek platforms a moveable via incra T-track slides to allow for lever clearance of the oneway platform clamp.
Attachments
@Greg Carles - when ingenuity meets creativity... nice.
I put the tools I use the most often on a rack on the wall at the end of the lathe. Everything is within a few steps.
Each tool rests on two deck screws with pieces of plastic tubing over the screws, similar to Adrian's 3rd photo in post #310.
My grandson and I built it on a piece of plywood on a 2x2 frame then fastened it to the wall.
The grandson helped by putting the tubing on the screws then handing them to me.
With the plywood rack fastened to the wall to the right.
Things I reach for the most, tool rest, calipers, and more are on the wall behind the lathe.
While working, I set tools on a carpet-covered tray that slides on the lathe bed, short sides prevent rolling.
I like this layout since I can see everything and quickly grab what I want.
Another nice thing is I can easily adjust the layout in a few seconds with a screwdriver.
That's just one of four places I keep lathe tools. Drawers in a machinists chest hold hand scrapers, small saws, calipers, diamond hones, burnishers, live centers and more. Below that is a small cabinet with two shelves with mostly scrapers and NRS.
Below that is a metal cabinet with drawers for special tools, chucks, jaws, safety equipment, and a closed compartment with shelves for solvents.
Standing at the lathe, I just have to turn around to access three drawers below the workbench with measuring tools, unhandled lathe tools, etc.
(I built the workbench around the metal cabinet that has these drawers and two lower shelves.)
To the right of that, still below the workbench, is a rack for bowl gouges in longish handles, standing vertically.
At the left end of the workbench is a small roll-around cabinet holds pneumatic tools, ROS and others.
I keep some "spare" tools and handles in some of those great Craftsman tool boxes advertised to fit under truck seats.
The boxes are also great for taking tools to demos. These store nicely on shelves elsewhere in the shop.
Did I hear someone say you can't have too many tools?
Only a problem for the poor soul who has to dispose of all this (and all the wood) when I kick off someday!
JKJ
Each tool rests on two deck screws with pieces of plastic tubing over the screws, similar to Adrian's 3rd photo in post #310.
My grandson and I built it on a piece of plywood on a 2x2 frame then fastened it to the wall.
The grandson helped by putting the tubing on the screws then handing them to me.
With the plywood rack fastened to the wall to the right.
Things I reach for the most, tool rest, calipers, and more are on the wall behind the lathe.
While working, I set tools on a carpet-covered tray that slides on the lathe bed, short sides prevent rolling.
I like this layout since I can see everything and quickly grab what I want.
Another nice thing is I can easily adjust the layout in a few seconds with a screwdriver.
That's just one of four places I keep lathe tools. Drawers in a machinists chest hold hand scrapers, small saws, calipers, diamond hones, burnishers, live centers and more. Below that is a small cabinet with two shelves with mostly scrapers and NRS.
Below that is a metal cabinet with drawers for special tools, chucks, jaws, safety equipment, and a closed compartment with shelves for solvents.
Standing at the lathe, I just have to turn around to access three drawers below the workbench with measuring tools, unhandled lathe tools, etc.
(I built the workbench around the metal cabinet that has these drawers and two lower shelves.)
To the right of that, still below the workbench, is a rack for bowl gouges in longish handles, standing vertically.
At the left end of the workbench is a small roll-around cabinet holds pneumatic tools, ROS and others.
I keep some "spare" tools and handles in some of those great Craftsman tool boxes advertised to fit under truck seats.
The boxes are also great for taking tools to demos. These store nicely on shelves elsewhere in the shop.
Did I hear someone say you can't have too many tools?
Only a problem for the poor soul who has to dispose of all this (and all the wood) when I kick off someday!
JKJ
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@Greg Carles , what do you use the wolverine system for vs the Tormek jigs? I currently use Tormek jigs and platform on my Rikon grinder, and I’m considering adding a wolverine system so I can try the Michelson grind. The Tormek jig doesn’t rotate far enough to do that grind.
What does the wolverine do better or easier than the Tormek jigs? I’d hate to spend the time and $ If there aren’t any other benefits besides being able to the Michelson grind.
I use the svd-186 for bowl and spindle gouges, except the 40/40. Everything else I do with a platform on the support bar.
What does the wolverine do better or easier than the Tormek jigs? I’d hate to spend the time and $ If there aren’t any other benefits besides being able to the Michelson grind.
I use the svd-186 for bowl and spindle gouges, except the 40/40. Everything else I do with a platform on the support bar.
Most parts of the UK are quite damp at times and I’m guessing that many wood turners carry out the hobby in a garage or outside shed. Not the driest of places most times. In spite of this there is something of a trend over here to fix things like Chucks and Jaws onto the wall with a threaded “chuck buddy”. Or special brackets. These accessories started out as metal items but plastic 3D printed versions have now become popular as well.
It’s not surprising then to see items like this come up for sale on eBay and social media.
It’s not surprising then to see items like this come up for sale on eBay and social media.
Beautiful and inspiring submissions in this thread.
Here's a roll around cart I did that I find handy. The serrated edges are really great to keep the tools in line. The bottom shot shows some shear scrapers and hollowing tools I've made over the years.
Here's a roll around cart I did that I find handy. The serrated edges are really great to keep the tools in line. The bottom shot shows some shear scrapers and hollowing tools I've made over the years.
Hi - Yes,
Great question. -- I use the wolverine system for parting tools, negative rake scrapers, skews, spindle roughing gouge ( SRG- on the long V-arm) , and regular traditional flat top scrapers to name a few. These can be done with the T8 but I have found it quicker and easier with the wolverine.
I love having both systems available for my Rikon and CBN wheels for a quick touch up of a gouge during turning, and then turn around and put new burr on a scraper.
Of course the BGM-100 for the tormek jigs is also mainly used to reshape any gouges I may need to quickly. The Tormek T8 is not feasible to reshape any kind of gouge in a quick manner.
Side note: My Tormek wheel is getting low also and I need to think about getting a new one before next year most likely.
Here's an on-bed tool rack that's great for demos. A couple of little C-Clamps secure it to beds of various width gaps.
Geezus!! How about weatherizing those old shop buildings and adding dehumidification?Most parts of the UK are quite damp at times and I’m guessing that many wood turners carry out the hobby in a garage or outside shed. Not the driest of places most times. In spite of this there is something of a trend over here to fix things like Chucks and Jaws onto the wall with a threaded “chuck buddy”. Or special brackets. These accessories started out as metal items but plastic 3D printed versions have now become popular as well.
It’s not surprising then to see items like this come up for sale on eBay and social media.
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I cringe every time I read of a turner who has many, many thousands of dollars of machinery and gear set up in a 200-year-old chicken coop-like shack that is essentially open to the outside environment. 23 years of Minnesota climate, in a (young) 100yo single car garage size workshop, and not a spec of rust on anything. Heated to 65F all winter, cooled/dehumidified to about 72-73F all summer. Walls and ceiling are insulated. Protect your investments.
My permanent on-bed tool racks have an adjustment slot and a steel clamp plate. This is better than the clamp ends sticking up.
First shot are the racks and plates before mounting. The clamping screw is 1/2-13 (not shown)
Second shot is a loaded rack for work in process.
Its amazing how much foolaround time these racks save.
First shot are the racks and plates before mounting. The clamping screw is 1/2-13 (not shown)
Second shot is a loaded rack for work in process.
Its amazing how much foolaround time these racks save.
I wish I had seen this thread several months ago! There’s some great tool racks here.
This is what I cobbled together. All of the skews and scrapers I made. Gouges are all purchased. The small racks in front on the top (on both sides) are probably a mistake; I didn't think about having to reach over the tools to get to the ones on the back. Other than that, it’s on casters so I roll it around to face the side I need while turning.
This is what I cobbled together. All of the skews and scrapers I made. Gouges are all purchased. The small racks in front on the top (on both sides) are probably a mistake; I didn't think about having to reach over the tools to get to the ones on the back. Other than that, it’s on casters so I roll it around to face the side I need while turning.
Quite. I’ve had a couple of garage workshops that were damp. Difficult or expensive to deal with to stop some stuff going rusty when the weather was really bad. I started using clip lock boxes for small stuff to keep them from going rusty. These days my cabin is dry and the only thing that has gone a bit rusty is my Anvil.
Additional issue is you are by the sea.
I have just moved to Devon and an uncovered corner of my planer/thicknessor went rusty in 2 weeks.
All the door locks I have to regularly coat in grease.
I discovered there is a higher finish standard for double glazed windows on the coast!
It's pretty damned humid here in Tennessee, too. My shop is in my garage and isn't climate controlled. I've never seen, nor even thought of, rust on my tools from humidity. I wonder if Bill's situation is exacerbated by salt water nearby.
I used to live in Greater London and find the weather down here seems to be cooler in summer and a bit warmer in winter. I suspect though that the humidity is higher.
As I said earlier, I don’t suffer from rusty tools in my current workshop. I still make a point of protecting some of my tools though, just in case.
As it happens I don’t have spare wall space anyway to line my stuff up like a row of Ducks!
I have some steel cupboards with shelves that work well but I’d really like some more tool boxes with drawers but I don’t have the space. I really need to re-appraise my storage options.
It's not pretty, but this is the solution I've landed on.
A milk crate mounted to a dumpster find office chair base.
The benefits are that it is safe, compact, allows easy identifications of the tool/steel I want, and makes it easy to move between lathes and grinding station.
A milk crate mounted to a dumpster find office chair base.
The benefits are that it is safe, compact, allows easy identifications of the tool/steel I want, and makes it easy to move between lathes and grinding station.
Not pretty?! That’s a great idea Brandon. 
Bob, one thing I did for my shop was get one of the 2 foot by 4 foot wire rack things on wheels. I then built a 6 foot by 2 foot table top for it with a rim on 3 sides. Mostly this keeps sharp tool ends from hanging out over the edge so I don't cut myself.
robo hippy
robo hippy
It is an old Glaser bowl gouge. The wood sleeve is my addition because my hand would cramp while holding the tool. It was a turning job with lots of rosettes. The sleeve has been there for 20 years.
...while we're drifting this thread.
Here's a shot of both the bowl gouge and what I did to the chuck key to make opening and closing a little faster and easier. I really recommend these modifications if you have a lot of repetitive turning to do,
This was in 2006. When I hit my stride, I was getting right at $100.00 per hour but 275 rosettes still took a while. Thank goodness for books on tape.
Here's a shot of both the bowl gouge and what I did to the chuck key to make opening and closing a little faster and easier. I really recommend these modifications if you have a lot of repetitive turning to do,
This was in 2006. When I hit my stride, I was getting right at $100.00 per hour but 275 rosettes still took a while. Thank goodness for books on tape.
Have property with space and time and ability? Build a shop exactly as you want it. I highly recommend that, but it's not practical without enough permanent space - and not practical if renting or leasing. I've built shops at two previous homes so far, 20x20' and 16x16' and used a garage for years at our current place. (My very first shop was on the sidewalk and porch on our first house. I carried hand tools outside as needed and only worked when the weather was nice! That was a 1/2 century ago BW - Before Woodturning.)
I've mentioned before that I built my current shop building, a 24x62', for wood, metal, and other things. The best thing I ever did was put in climate control (heat pump) so the humidity is relatively constant year around. I've never seen rust except for the time I left a piece of wet oak on the bandsaw table overnight. Learned from that.
Since I use the building for many things, I use several of those tall tool boxes - one huge one in the main shop area for tools, one for drill bits and bolts, another big one in the back room (with tools to work on equipment, vehicles, maintenance, electrical), two for misc things, and one with a workbench top and several long drawers.
Some advantages of a stand-alone shop - noise and dust control, the benefits of having a dedicated space. And in my experience, a separate building, even small, was always attractive to buyers.
I've known several who didn't have the space to build but rented or bought a suitable building within a short driving distance. That would be less convenient but people who did this said there were certain advantages.
JKJ
I did that same thing a long time ago, except my PVC pipes were in a 5-gal bucket, and I didn't have an old office chair to serve as a rolling, rotating base. Nice.
Recently built this on lathe tool holder that sits in between the bed ways making it very easy to move behind the tail stock when needed while being secure.
I make a similar thing but different and perhaps simpler. I have one or more of these tool trays for each lathe, some a bit wider and/or deeper. I'd hate to use the lathe without one.
This one fits the bed gap of a Jet1642.
A simple block of wood keeps it in place but lets me place, remove, or slide it as desired. I move it to the left or right of the tailstock depending on what I'm doing. It will easily fit under a long spindle if needed.
A piece of carpet held with double-sided tape and short wood sides keep tools from rolling so I purposely don't make spots for individual tools - no need. The simple design is also useful when I want a place to put things other than tools with handles like hand scrapers, mallet, hex key, bit of sandpaper, chuck, small unhandled NRS, etc. - either to set down for just a moment or to keep at hand for the turning.
I also take these to demos which helps me stay organized. (those who have seen my demos know I need all the help I can get)
I made the first one maybe 15 years ago.
Sometimes I'll use more than one at the same time, depends.
I posted this on another forum years ago and several made them. One person used magnets to hold it in place. I think there is no need for anything other than the block of wood. Due to the geometry the thing can't tip. Simply make the block the right width to slide.
JKJ
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This is my Lathe tool tray. It’s two pieces of plastic square line gutter screwed to a piece of plywood and lined with router mat.
I trimmed the outside edges as they don’t need to be high. I left the inner sides full height so I can use it to lift the tray off the lathe easily with one hand. Like others it too has a piece of wood to temporarily secure it to the ways. The wooden block isn’t very thick but the tray doesn’t tip and it slides easily.
I trimmed the outside edges as they don’t need to be high. I left the inner sides full height so I can use it to lift the tray off the lathe easily with one hand. Like others it too has a piece of wood to temporarily secure it to the ways. The wooden block isn’t very thick but the tray doesn’t tip and it slides easily.
Tom Gall
TOTW Team
My "on the lathe" tool holder: Consists of PVC pipe (split in half), plywood, hot melt glue, and a Leichtung plastic covered base (I believe Leichtung has been out of business for several decades). Any magnetic tray as in the 3rd photo can be used instead.
I saw a DeWalt tool chest at a local store yesterday. Not impressed. No listing of the sheet metal gauge, but it felt lighter than the 19g. of the Menard's Mastercraft chest I just bought (see that message in the thread feom a few days ago). Also, the drawers used a friction design to keep the them in the closed position (besides the key lock), and tugging/pushing to get past that just felt cheap. And the price was higher.
I guess the only consumer brand chest I haven't seen (didn't bother) is HD's Husky line. That said, I am completely satisfied with the quality and woodturner-usefulness of the 30" wide Menard's Mastercraft tool chest I bought. I think Menard's is mainly an upper midwest to mid-east chain of stores, but if they are near you and you have the need, take a look.
I guess the only consumer brand chest I haven't seen (didn't bother) is HD's Husky line. That said, I am completely satisfied with the quality and woodturner-usefulness of the 30" wide Menard's Mastercraft tool chest I bought. I think Menard's is mainly an upper midwest to mid-east chain of stores, but if they are near you and you have the need, take a look.
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That's a clever idea.
I have five double-decker tool boxes (base and upper cabinet units) in my shop and one low cabinet with an adjustable workbench top. Some are old Craftsmans from Sears. Two are huge. We don't have a Menards in TN (according to Google)
My absolute favorite is large one I bought, I think, from Lowes. Heavy duty, very wide, great ball-bearing drawer slides. Quite heavy but has good casters, easy to move. One feature I haven't seen elsewhere is one slide out drawer with a wooded work "bench" surface. Lift that surface for a large drawer under. I keep it in a central location in the main shop. Some shallow, some deep drawers, a column of narrower drawers down one side. Lift the top for lights and power outlets. The bottom drawer is deep enough to store all my battery powered tools - circular saw, drills, recip saws, more I don't remember the brand.
Another very handy newish tool cabinet is a cart with two long/shallow drawers and a workbench top. The top has a unique height adjustment with a crank. I keep it near the bandsaw to stage wood cut from logs and blanks to be cut and trimmed.
JKJ
A couple of the wider Menard's Mastercraft tool chests have a similar wood top pull out work surface.
The pull-out work surface is SO handy in the main shop, largely for disassembly/repair of smallish electronic things. The surface lifts up to access a large drawer below, so I put things in that drawer I rarely use.
The other wide roll-around tool thing has a big wood workbench with a helpful feature - a crank raises and lowers just the work surface. Since I have it near the bandsaw I raise it high for staging and setting blanks as I cut them from log sections, as well as layout and marking things to cut. Two wide, shallow drawers just right for measuring and marking tools.
It's one of those things I bought on a whim and now would hate to be without it. Can't have too many tool cabinets! (until all the floor space is gone...)
JKJ
I should add, they do offer shipping on these chests.