I am grateful for all the pictures and descriptions about tool holders. I am going to put a wood heater in my shop and am wondering what kind of heat you are using? Any suggestions? I'm in Nor California.
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Shop Heating
- Thread starter loberg
- Start date
It gets pretty darn cold up here!
I'm currently using two electric space heaters to maintain heat, and a Mr. Heater propane heater to bring the temperature up fast.
One of the space heaters is ceramic, and the other is electric coil. The ceramic heater stays on 24/7 at a low setting and keeps everything above freezing.
The electric coil space heater stays on as long as I'm using the shop. It, along with the ceramic heater, is capable of maintaining a comfortable temperature for working......even in temperatures well below freezing. I was using the combination this year in temperatures between zero and +10 degrees F. At that cold a temperature, it doesn't make it T-shirt time!.....but, a sweatshirt over a T-shirt is very comfortable. The electric coil heater is turned off when I close shop.
The Mr. Heater propane heater is amazing! This is an inexpensive heater, but it puts out a lot of heat! It's attached to a small portable propane tank, which I can position within the shop as needed. When I intend to use the shop, I fire this heater up and it takes about 20min for it to heat up the shop to a comfortable temperature. When I'm feeling warm enough, I turn off the Mr. Heater, and the other two heaters can maintain comfort level.
edit: My shop is about the size of a 3-car garage, and is well insulated.....walls and ceiling. Up here, that goes without saying, but I realize some of you reading this are a bit further south!
ooc
I'm currently using two electric space heaters to maintain heat, and a Mr. Heater propane heater to bring the temperature up fast.
One of the space heaters is ceramic, and the other is electric coil. The ceramic heater stays on 24/7 at a low setting and keeps everything above freezing.
The electric coil space heater stays on as long as I'm using the shop. It, along with the ceramic heater, is capable of maintaining a comfortable temperature for working......even in temperatures well below freezing. I was using the combination this year in temperatures between zero and +10 degrees F. At that cold a temperature, it doesn't make it T-shirt time!.....but, a sweatshirt over a T-shirt is very comfortable. The electric coil heater is turned off when I close shop.
The Mr. Heater propane heater is amazing! This is an inexpensive heater, but it puts out a lot of heat! It's attached to a small portable propane tank, which I can position within the shop as needed. When I intend to use the shop, I fire this heater up and it takes about 20min for it to heat up the shop to a comfortable temperature. When I'm feeling warm enough, I turn off the Mr. Heater, and the other two heaters can maintain comfort level.
edit: My shop is about the size of a 3-car garage, and is well insulated.....walls and ceiling. Up here, that goes without saying, but I realize some of you reading this are a bit further south!
ooc
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john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I have a 2 car garage with a high ceiling. It's been insulated but I have trouble keeping it above 50 degrees when it's below 30 here. I use Kerosene heater and single burner Mr Heater propane.
The propane doesn't heat as well as the Kerosene because it's lower BTU. It doesn't smell of course. I get 3 days of use out of it and it costs $18 to refill which is kind of hassle because the propane place is only open during lunch for me. I'm looking at the double burner unit but then I would have to buy the larger tank. It would use more propane but the larger tank is much cheaper per pound to refill. The problem would hauling the 100lb tank dealer and it would also be harder to move around the shop.
The Kerosene fuel is easier to get but they do run out frequently nearby which requires a 9 mile drive to town. It cost's me $20 for enough fuel to last 3 1/2 to 4 days so it's a little less expensive to operate than the single burner propane and heats better.
I don't have enough 220 to run a good electric heater. Maybe next year when I run a new 220 line to the shop. Electric heat is less expensive in Tennessee and of course cleaner. I tried a smaller electric radiant heater and it just didn't work. It did work if I stood in one spot but I tend to move around the shop a lot and it didn't heat the room up much.
The propane doesn't heat as well as the Kerosene because it's lower BTU. It doesn't smell of course. I get 3 days of use out of it and it costs $18 to refill which is kind of hassle because the propane place is only open during lunch for me. I'm looking at the double burner unit but then I would have to buy the larger tank. It would use more propane but the larger tank is much cheaper per pound to refill. The problem would hauling the 100lb tank dealer and it would also be harder to move around the shop.
The Kerosene fuel is easier to get but they do run out frequently nearby which requires a 9 mile drive to town. It cost's me $20 for enough fuel to last 3 1/2 to 4 days so it's a little less expensive to operate than the single burner propane and heats better.
I don't have enough 220 to run a good electric heater. Maybe next year when I run a new 220 line to the shop. Electric heat is less expensive in Tennessee and of course cleaner. I tried a smaller electric radiant heater and it just didn't work. It did work if I stood in one spot but I tend to move around the shop a lot and it didn't heat the room up much.
You have lots of options.
Up here in wetter Washington we have a similar climate.
I have a good friend that heats his shop with wood. The issue he has is the time it takes to warm the shop up, which limits what he can do evenings. Purty much limiting him to weekends (this time of year).
I know another guy that heats both his house and shop from the cut-offs and waste. But he has a business selling wood to turners, luters, etc.
I know another guy that heats with the Mr Heater things, the problem I have with these is that they put C02 and H20 in the shop, I don't consider either of these a good idea.
I currently heat my shop with a 3KW ceiling mounted heater. I find it works well enough, most of the time. Really cold days (highs below freezing) it takes too long to warm up the shop.
I'm currently looking at replacing that heater with a 1-ton mini-split heat-pump. The primary reason is I'm looking at retirement and figure I will be spending more time there and need a more cost effective way to heat.
Up here in wetter Washington we have a similar climate.
I have a good friend that heats his shop with wood. The issue he has is the time it takes to warm the shop up, which limits what he can do evenings. Purty much limiting him to weekends (this time of year).
I know another guy that heats both his house and shop from the cut-offs and waste. But he has a business selling wood to turners, luters, etc.
I know another guy that heats with the Mr Heater things, the problem I have with these is that they put C02 and H20 in the shop, I don't consider either of these a good idea.
I currently heat my shop with a 3KW ceiling mounted heater. I find it works well enough, most of the time. Really cold days (highs below freezing) it takes too long to warm up the shop.
I'm currently looking at replacing that heater with a 1-ton mini-split heat-pump. The primary reason is I'm looking at retirement and figure I will be spending more time there and need a more cost effective way to heat.
I use a Rinnai vented propane furnace. It's small, quiet and extremely efficient. It literally sips propane. I leave it on low all the time unless I'm in the shop. That keeps it at about 53 deg. When I go out there to work, I punch it up to 64 or 66 which is a comfortable working temp for me. It takes no time for it to warm the place up. I do have a well insulated shop, so that makes a difference.
[FONT="]I reckon I am not going to be much help, as I am about as far south in southwest Georgia as one can get.
My shop is 1,664 foot² (154.59 meter²), with 1,404 foot² (130.44 meter²) heated and cooled with a split system, 2-ton Carrier Heat Pump. It has R-19 walls, and R-30 ceiling, plus 1/2" OSB covering the walls and ceiling, and a concrete slab floor. I removed the two electric auxiliary heat strips (in the heat pump) to cut power consumption, and because they are truly not needed here. The heating and cooling is done strictly by the Freon system. It is 38°F (3.33°C) outside temp here now, the heat pump has not been on all day, and it is still 63°F (17.22°C) in the shop area, and 70°F (21.11°C) here in my shop office (probably due to the lights and computer generating heat).
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year,
Gil[/FONT]
My shop is 1,664 foot² (154.59 meter²), with 1,404 foot² (130.44 meter²) heated and cooled with a split system, 2-ton Carrier Heat Pump. It has R-19 walls, and R-30 ceiling, plus 1/2" OSB covering the walls and ceiling, and a concrete slab floor. I removed the two electric auxiliary heat strips (in the heat pump) to cut power consumption, and because they are truly not needed here. The heating and cooling is done strictly by the Freon system. It is 38°F (3.33°C) outside temp here now, the heat pump has not been on all day, and it is still 63°F (17.22°C) in the shop area, and 70°F (21.11°C) here in my shop office (probably due to the lights and computer generating heat).
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year,
Gil[/FONT]
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Sounds like your decision's made, so rather than talk alternatives, I'll remind you that you want a nice heat recovery system on the flue and a ceiling fan. Warming the person is the important thing, so get that warm air out and about. Good practice in starting the fire helps warm the chimney, the stove, and the area fast. Make it blaze for the first fifteen minutes, then load and damp it.
Wood heat pulls a lot of air in from outside if you're not tight and don't provide combustion air direct to the stove from out there. Things get real dry real fast. We hang our clothes inside the house, shower with the exhaust fan off and leave open water in the sinks and we still have an effort to get the RH above 40. Could be quite a shock to fresh-roughed wood.
I'd determine the minimum area required, fence it off and heat electrically, with a fan to circulate the warmth. Wood must be cheaper than it was when I was in CA, or you have a private stand to even consider it. Wood's almost a hundred a pulp cord here, and maple, beech and birch are better at BTUs than any hardwood out there.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I wanted to heat with a wood stove. It is so easy to get free wood around here. If you have a chainsaw and truck or trailer there are plenty of downed trees that someone wants removed. My insurance agent however said I can't do it. I looked at the outside woodstove alternative but at $6000 that isn't an option.
I'm still looking at the larger wall mounted propane but they run about $250 and up around here and then you still have to buy the larger tank or plan to run to the dealer every 3 days.
I'm still looking at the larger wall mounted propane but they run about $250 and up around here and then you still have to buy the larger tank or plan to run to the dealer every 3 days.
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Wall Mounted Propane
John - Please tell me more about "wall mounted propane" heaters. Info such as vendor name, source, etc. would be most helpful. I am interested in heating my shop, but do not like portable propane heaters, kerosene heaters, electric heaters, etc.
Appreciate and look forward to response. - John
John - Please tell me more about "wall mounted propane" heaters. Info such as vendor name, source, etc. would be most helpful. I am interested in heating my shop, but do not like portable propane heaters, kerosene heaters, electric heaters, etc.
Appreciate and look forward to response. - John
I use an oil filled radiator. Small electric, and keeps it comfy in temps down to freezing. It was down in the teens for a few days about 2 weeks ago, and I was in sweat pants and a long sleeved shirt. This is unusual for me as I am in shorts and T shirt all year long.
robo hippy
robo hippy
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
If I had the space, I would put in a Modine Hot Dawg heater
http://www.modine.com/v2portal/page.../building_HVAC/market_level_3_content_013.htm
I use a flameless propane heater that has a fan.
But what I recommend to all of you is to put in a combo smoke/CO2 alarm in your shops.
http://www.modine.com/v2portal/page.../building_HVAC/market_level_3_content_013.htm
I use a flameless propane heater that has a fan.
But what I recommend to all of you is to put in a combo smoke/CO2 alarm in your shops.
I use a natural gas heater made by Empire. You might want to search this forum for past threads. Also there was a heating article in Fine Woodworking about 10 years ago. You may want to search for that article also.
My heater is fairly small - about 4' x 2.5' x 16". Has a zero wall clearance, intake and exhust is through a 4" hole in the wall. The flame is totally contained and the shop air gets forced around the heating chamber. No exposure to dust vs. flame.
I wanted a wood burning stove in the shop, but it just takes up too much room with all the clearance issues.
Merry Christmas to all!
Hugh
My heater is fairly small - about 4' x 2.5' x 16". Has a zero wall clearance, intake and exhust is through a 4" hole in the wall. The flame is totally contained and the shop air gets forced around the heating chamber. No exposure to dust vs. flame.
I wanted a wood burning stove in the shop, but it just takes up too much room with all the clearance issues.
Merry Christmas to all!
Hugh
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I use a wall mounted ventless propane heater with good results. Since my shop is not close to my house I only light it when I am in the shop. I used to heat with kerosene; the propane is much better.
mini split
When I built my new shop last year I decided to put in a mini split heat pump. I leave it set to the minmum of 60 (as low as it goes) and with my shop being well insulated and almost air tight it dosen't take much to keep it at 60. While it does cool it does a much better job at heating and it runs on 110 plus I get back the energy star rebate on my taxes.
First time I've really enjoyed turning in the winter. With propane and kerosene I was warm but my tools were still cold.
Vernon
When I built my new shop last year I decided to put in a mini split heat pump. I leave it set to the minmum of 60 (as low as it goes) and with my shop being well insulated and almost air tight it dosen't take much to keep it at 60. While it does cool it does a much better job at heating and it runs on 110 plus I get back the energy star rebate on my taxes.
First time I've really enjoyed turning in the winter. With propane and kerosene I was warm but my tools were still cold.
Vernon
Hind sight
We did discover one problem with an air tight shop though. My buddy and I were dying a platter and kaleidoscope barrel when we noticed that we getting a little high. It finally dawned on me that it was the acholol in the dye, so to take care of that problem we were forced to go to the local box store down the street and look around for a while ( what we do for the craft).
Vernon
We did discover one problem with an air tight shop though. My buddy and I were dying a platter and kaleidoscope barrel when we noticed that we getting a little high. It finally dawned on me that it was the acholol in the dye, so to take care of that problem we were forced to go to the local box store down the street and look around for a while ( what we do for the craft).
Vernon
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I tried the oil filled heaters. I guess mine were a piece of junk because you could stand next to them and barely fell the heat.
John I don't remember the brand. I stopped by the place that sells propane and talked to the lady at length about price of propane, which heaters used how much, etc. It was quite informative but since they were beyond my price range right now I kind of put the brands out my mind.
John I don't remember the brand. I stopped by the place that sells propane and talked to the lady at length about price of propane, which heaters used how much, etc. It was quite informative but since they were beyond my price range right now I kind of put the brands out my mind.
I am also in coastal WA but have taken a different tactic. Although heat is included in my shop space rent, I havent used it yet. I throw on a pair of long underwear, and a decent sweater under my turning smock and work like that. I like to have the bay door open while I work and have actually been pretty comfortable. A hot cup of tea nearby is helpful as well.
I stop at the shop to turn on my way home from the office and only spend a few hours there before I continue my bike ride home. I found that heating that space for such a short time just wasnt worth it. I also found I really enjoy the fresh air the open bay gives me. My heater is an electric baseboard. Even when Seattle was down to 20 at night I was pretty comfortable working like that.
I did enclose a small space and put a small 100 watt heater in there like we use on boats to keep mildew down and I use that for holding pieces that have a finish drying. That has kept them dust free as well as keeping them in a temp that was fine for the finish.
And yes....I plan on donating my body to science when I die so they can find out why I seem so tolerant of cool temps. <grin>
Seriously though....I do like working like this, especially having all that fresh air while I work. The shop is also on the corner of a well used bike path and the open Bay door has encouraged people to simply pop in and see what I am doing. I have gotten lots of nice contacts like that.
OK.....maybe this isnt an approach everyone would enjoy? <grin>
I stop at the shop to turn on my way home from the office and only spend a few hours there before I continue my bike ride home. I found that heating that space for such a short time just wasnt worth it. I also found I really enjoy the fresh air the open bay gives me. My heater is an electric baseboard. Even when Seattle was down to 20 at night I was pretty comfortable working like that.
I did enclose a small space and put a small 100 watt heater in there like we use on boats to keep mildew down and I use that for holding pieces that have a finish drying. That has kept them dust free as well as keeping them in a temp that was fine for the finish.
And yes....I plan on donating my body to science when I die so they can find out why I seem so tolerant of cool temps. <grin>
Seriously though....I do like working like this, especially having all that fresh air while I work. The shop is also on the corner of a well used bike path and the open Bay door has encouraged people to simply pop in and see what I am doing. I have gotten lots of nice contacts like that.
OK.....maybe this isnt an approach everyone would enjoy? <grin>
JL......I have one of those oil filled heaters on right now in my bedroom. You're right that it doesn't put out much heat. I've assumed they don't use much energy to operate, though. Anyone know for sure? They certainly wouldn't give enough heat to make any difference out in the shop, but if they raise the temperature in a single room five or ten degrees at the cost of running a light bulb......I suppose that would be worth it. :cool2:
ooc
Shop heat
I have a 24'x36' shop and live on the northern edge of Wi., that I heat with a Modine Hot Dawg. It is a sealed direct vent model, so no fire worries, and has had no problem heating the shop down to around 30 below. It was 14 below the other morning when I went out there, and the heater came on maybe once every 20 mins to a half an hour. I keep the shop set to about 62 deg. I also considered in floor heat, but had a relitive that worked for Modine, and got me a deal that I couldn't refuse on the Hot Dawg space heater. The only thing that I dont like about it, is the fan noise when it runs. If you ask me, the fan could run at about half the speed that it does.
I have a 24'x36' shop and live on the northern edge of Wi., that I heat with a Modine Hot Dawg. It is a sealed direct vent model, so no fire worries, and has had no problem heating the shop down to around 30 below. It was 14 below the other morning when I went out there, and the heater came on maybe once every 20 mins to a half an hour. I keep the shop set to about 62 deg. I also considered in floor heat, but had a relitive that worked for Modine, and got me a deal that I couldn't refuse on the Hot Dawg space heater. The only thing that I dont like about it, is the fan noise when it runs. If you ask me, the fan could run at about half the speed that it does.
LOL.....Well, David my good friend......I see California transplants around here every year who wear shorts and t-shirts in the winter! 😱 Whatever turns your crank, ol' buddy......but, give it a couple years and they all end up dressing like the rest of us do!
I don't know why that is, but for some (but, not all), it takes a little dose of near frostbite to remind them they ain't in the land of year 'round Coppertone lotion anymore!
Ha, Ha, Ha!
ooc
(I hope you understand this was all just good natured ribbing......but, there is most assuredly an element of truth to it! 😀 )
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I installed this heater: http://www.qmarkmep.com/develop/prod_pdf/instructs/5200-2297-000.pdf a couple of years ago.
The shop is 5625 cubic feet. The building is stand alone and the walls are insulated R13. The ceiling is a combination of 1.5" of particle board/pine planks (middle 8x25 feet of attic storage) and 3/8" bead board on the bottom of the trusses on either side of the upper floor. I have not yet insulated the sections above the bead board.
Winters here mean occasional snow with daytime temps sometimes hovering in the 30s with nights into the teens. The lowest shop temp I have seen after a few days of non use is 42 degrees. If I turn the heater on for 20 minutes or so before I go out to the shop to work, I find myself shedding vests and long sleeve shirts within a hour. I also turn off the heater for the day and the shop remains comfortable for the rest of the day. I'm sure that if I was working late into the evening, I'd need to turn it on again as evening temps drop outside, but I haven't even done that yet this winter.
An electric heater in the 17K btu range raises cost issues, to be sure. However, in a shop with the insulation I described for the climate I live in, the cost to run the heater for the relatively short time that I have settled on leaves me with comfort and no real electric bill shock at the end of the month.
BTW, this heater is manufactured by Marley for other vendors. At least one sells it with a 220V plug. My instructions say to hard wire it and that's what I did. Even if I found one of the other versions with a 220V wire/plug at a lower cost, I'd still hard wire it.
The shop is 5625 cubic feet. The building is stand alone and the walls are insulated R13. The ceiling is a combination of 1.5" of particle board/pine planks (middle 8x25 feet of attic storage) and 3/8" bead board on the bottom of the trusses on either side of the upper floor. I have not yet insulated the sections above the bead board.
Winters here mean occasional snow with daytime temps sometimes hovering in the 30s with nights into the teens. The lowest shop temp I have seen after a few days of non use is 42 degrees. If I turn the heater on for 20 minutes or so before I go out to the shop to work, I find myself shedding vests and long sleeve shirts within a hour. I also turn off the heater for the day and the shop remains comfortable for the rest of the day. I'm sure that if I was working late into the evening, I'd need to turn it on again as evening temps drop outside, but I haven't even done that yet this winter.
An electric heater in the 17K btu range raises cost issues, to be sure. However, in a shop with the insulation I described for the climate I live in, the cost to run the heater for the relatively short time that I have settled on leaves me with comfort and no real electric bill shock at the end of the month.
BTW, this heater is manufactured by Marley for other vendors. At least one sells it with a 220V plug. My instructions say to hard wire it and that's what I did. Even if I found one of the other versions with a 220V wire/plug at a lower cost, I'd still hard wire it.
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I'm late getting in on this one - too busy blowing and shoveling our once every five year 2'+ snow storm. Anyway, I've a 2 and a half car garage as a 'studio' and only try heating it when it's really cold (like this week!). Since I've a big dust collector and a fairly good ceiling mount air filter, I use the largest portable Mr. Heater (http://www.mrheater.com/ProductFamily.aspx?catid=44) for the few weeks I really need heat. The rest of the year it's wrapped up and stored in a shed. I tried the smaller disk units, but they seldom lasted more than a year or two. This one's been great for almost four, and as long as I'm careful about dust buildup, I won't blow the garage up.
Not me Odie!! 10 years living in the snows of Crater Lake National Park, roughly 600 inches every year, saw me wearing shorts in my free time. 5 more years in Port Angeles, WA saw the same thing, except there was hardly any snow to speak of. My 10 years in Hawaii were warm warm warm. Did you know you can only remove so many clothes before people start to complain? Now that I am back in the Pacific Northwest for a few years I am enjoying the cool! Helps keep the wood from overheating when I turn!! <grin>
OK, consider me corrected, Dave! 😀 Heh,heh,heh!
Still, we do see those people every year......might not be you, but you know I wasn't kidding about them......!
ooc
Dave but you know people that don't know the area get confused, heck we do. Spend the morning in Port Angeles, wearing shorts and a sweat-shirt, then drive a short 17 miles up to Hurricane Ridge and go skiing/snow-shoeing in 10 feet (or more) of snow.
Ralph
used
is there any used material that can be salvaged for heat?
for insulation?
i am always reading about big us surplus centers?
is there any used material that can be salvaged for heat?
for insulation?
i am always reading about big us surplus centers?
John, you are confusing me with your comments about running to the dealer to have a tank filled. In another thread, I think, you mentioned a 100 gal tank. I have two of those: one feeds the generator and the Rinnai heater in the shop and one feeds the fireplace. They are NOT something you throw in the back of a pickup truck and take to be filled. Our dealer sets the tank in place, connects it and checks the gas on a regular basis (or "on call" if you prefer.) I don't own the tanks. The tank feeding the shop and generator was filled last Spring and is still at 65%. I have run the heater an awful lot this winter (I leave it set at "low" even if I'm not in the shop). We have not had any significant power outages but the generator exercises itself off that tank every week as well. It's pretty darned efficient even with propane being high here.
cold? Nah! got too much heat
Hmm, my problem is just about always excess heat :cool2: and a 5-6 weeks of cooler temps of not much below 45F. This for me is turning in shorts, flip flops and forget the shirt, any shirt. 😀
So its fans,ventilation,sweat and 70% shade cloth for about 9 months of year. I have to stack my timber in the back of the garage under a two storey house. Where it has a fairly constant 65-70F all year round.
Hmm, my problem is just about always excess heat :cool2: and a 5-6 weeks of cooler temps of not much below 45F. This for me is turning in shorts, flip flops and forget the shirt, any shirt. 😀
So its fans,ventilation,sweat and 70% shade cloth for about 9 months of year. I have to stack my timber in the back of the garage under a two storey house. Where it has a fairly constant 65-70F all year round.
Here's another 2 cents worth for you to consider.
For the last 20 years i have used an electric 'Infrared Quartz Lamp' mf'd by Fostoria Industries to heat my 2 car Garage shop. This type of heater does not heat or move air [no dust movement] . Rather , It heats the objects in view, tools , floor, humans , etc. Mine is a 208/240 V, A.C. 15 A. unit with a variable controller. An Arkansas Power and Light Engineer recommended this as I have very little insulation in my shop and it is widely used in open loading docks with excellant results. 😀
When you consider all of the adavantages, low initial cost, no odors or fumes, no open flames, no floor or wall space taken, [ about the size of a 4ft. flourecent light], approx. an hour to install after you open the box, it is well worth considering. 🙂
Check with Fostoria Ind. at 1-800-495-4525 .
Clint Merrill
For the last 20 years i have used an electric 'Infrared Quartz Lamp' mf'd by Fostoria Industries to heat my 2 car Garage shop. This type of heater does not heat or move air [no dust movement] . Rather , It heats the objects in view, tools , floor, humans , etc. Mine is a 208/240 V, A.C. 15 A. unit with a variable controller. An Arkansas Power and Light Engineer recommended this as I have very little insulation in my shop and it is widely used in open loading docks with excellant results. 😀
When you consider all of the adavantages, low initial cost, no odors or fumes, no open flames, no floor or wall space taken, [ about the size of a 4ft. flourecent light], approx. an hour to install after you open the box, it is well worth considering. 🙂
Check with Fostoria Ind. at 1-800-495-4525 .
Clint Merrill
I have a woodstove, but it makes me nervous. I have a very small shop, and don't like having to give up the floorspace during the winter to keep things away from the stove. But, its the only option that works for me. There are copious quantities of free wood available from construction sites, storm damage, etc. that make great firewood.
Ventless propane heater
I live in upstate NY where we get lots of snow and cold weather. For what it's worth, here's information on the heater I am installing in my auto shop. My wood shop is in the basement, but I also restore classic cars and have been bothered for some time with leaving my classic cars in an unheated garage. The garage is an oversized two car garage with a shop area, probably around 750 square feet. It is reasonable well insulated. I have decided to heat the garage to a comfortable 50 degrees or so. After looking at all of the options I decided to install a ventless propane heater with blower made by Pro com. It is a 30,000 BTU model and mounts to the wall. It has low oxygen and CO2 sensors, and is thermostatically controlled. Building code requires that it be mounted 16 inches off the floor (protects against flammables on the floor). It costs around $230 and takes only a few minutes to set up. The propane supplier will come to make the final connections and install the 100 gallon tank and meter. That will cost $150-200. Then they will keep the tank full and charge me for actual gas usage. I will know more after this winter on actual costs and how well it works. Ray
I live in upstate NY where we get lots of snow and cold weather. For what it's worth, here's information on the heater I am installing in my auto shop. My wood shop is in the basement, but I also restore classic cars and have been bothered for some time with leaving my classic cars in an unheated garage. The garage is an oversized two car garage with a shop area, probably around 750 square feet. It is reasonable well insulated. I have decided to heat the garage to a comfortable 50 degrees or so. After looking at all of the options I decided to install a ventless propane heater with blower made by Pro com. It is a 30,000 BTU model and mounts to the wall. It has low oxygen and CO2 sensors, and is thermostatically controlled. Building code requires that it be mounted 16 inches off the floor (protects against flammables on the floor). It costs around $230 and takes only a few minutes to set up. The propane supplier will come to make the final connections and install the 100 gallon tank and meter. That will cost $150-200. Then they will keep the tank full and charge me for actual gas usage. I will know more after this winter on actual costs and how well it works. Ray
Ray....just checking. Was that a typo when you said it had a CO2 sensor? Did you mean CO....Carbon Monoxide?
Thanks,
Dave
Dave, sorry, a typo. CO not CO2. The oxygen sensor turns off the pilot if there is insufficient fresh air.
John, et. al.:
I used to have my propane tanks filled at a local feed mill and paid about the same price you do. That's until one day I ran out and needed a quick fill-up. I went to the local Flying J truck stop where they refilled tanks for RVs, etc. and paid around $8.00 for the fill up. You might want to check to see if there are any such places close by where you can get your tanks filled. Even now, I pay about half of what I would pay at the mill and even greater savings than getting a new tank at the places where you swap out the tank for a new full one.
Joe
I used to have my propane tanks filled at a local feed mill and paid about the same price you do. That's until one day I ran out and needed a quick fill-up. I went to the local Flying J truck stop where they refilled tanks for RVs, etc. and paid around $8.00 for the fill up. You might want to check to see if there are any such places close by where you can get your tanks filled. Even now, I pay about half of what I would pay at the mill and even greater savings than getting a new tank at the places where you swap out the tank for a new full one.
Joe
Richard Baker
RIP
Richard
Interesting idea, only I have almost stopped getting foam packing "bits", any more it's those inflated bags, CS-USA, Amazon, etc
Interesting idea, only I have almost stopped getting foam packing "bits", any more it's those inflated bags, CS-USA, Amazon, etc
having not ever planned or built a shop, but doing some what ifs, i assume insulating the roof is more important than the walls???
foam peanuts, good idea Texian, use a drop ceiling ?????
for just a woodturning shop, 10 x 12 with an attached leanto sound about right????
foam peanuts, good idea Texian, use a drop ceiling ?????
for just a woodturning shop, 10 x 12 with an attached leanto sound about right????
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I thought that the by products from propane are water and carbon dioxide not carbon monoxide.
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Charlie......
Whatever you think is the right sized shop.......then double it! 😀
It's never enough!
ooc
Richard Baker
RIP
n7, Also getting the inflated bags now instead of peanuts. Guess the bags are cheaper.
Charlie, Agree w/ Odie on shop size. Make it as big as your budget and wife will allow. Approx. 20 x 30 is a useful size, and even that can seem crowded at times. But some of the very best work comes out of the smallest shops. Present and previous shops have 8 ft. ceilings with insulation above the ceiling just like your house. If you insulate directly under the roof, must provide air flow space between insulation and roof decking to avoid condensation there and rotting the roof decking.
Barbara, Only makes CO if you are feeding excess fuel (have the heater turned up too high) so that you get incomplete combustion. If all the fuel is being completely burned (combined with sufficient O2) , you do indeed get CO2 and water.
Charlie, Agree w/ Odie on shop size. Make it as big as your budget and wife will allow. Approx. 20 x 30 is a useful size, and even that can seem crowded at times. But some of the very best work comes out of the smallest shops. Present and previous shops have 8 ft. ceilings with insulation above the ceiling just like your house. If you insulate directly under the roof, must provide air flow space between insulation and roof decking to avoid condensation there and rotting the roof decking.
Barbara, Only makes CO if you are feeding excess fuel (have the heater turned up too high) so that you get incomplete combustion. If all the fuel is being completely burned (combined with sufficient O2) , you do indeed get CO2 and water.
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