Robo & Jon, you made the comment about simply rolling a U shaped flute gouge rather than doing wings then nose. Most of my gouges are U shaped now. I like them better. Don't know why, just do. I have some parabolic ones with swept back grinds that I mostly just use initially to do rough shaping and bark removal. After getting a good shape on my U shaped gouges I've been trying to just start on one side, roll to the other and than back. So far it's helped in getting a consistent edge (no sharpie left) and maintaining my shape. With the other flute shapes I do have to make sure I keep an eye on my nose and wings or I'll get shape creep that I then have to deal with.
Tim, I looked at the Tormek and watched some videos. Nice setup but way out of my comfort zone for spend. I figure the initial spend and all the jigs and attachments to make it work I'd be in deep and then have a couple of nice grinders and wheels and jigs that I wouldn't need. One of those master what you have vs a new tool decisions.
Have you ever looked into Kent Weakley's videos and articles? I only started this hobby in March 2020. I'd been watching wood turning videos on youtube for almost two years at that point, so I guess I had a bit of a lightweight "education" before I got into the hobby. I had ZERO skill with the tools, sharpening, etc. though. Kent Weakley has some excellent videos and articles on gouges, and I learned from him that every tool has its place. I tend to use a range of gouges on each piece. I have the swept back (irish or ellseworth) grinds, and I have your basic 40/40 grind, and I've also turned one of our basic "U" type gouges into one of Weakley's "bottom feeder" type gouges for getting around those tight inner curves and along the bottom of bowls. If I'm turning a bowl, I tend to use all of these, for different parts of the bowl. The Weakley bottom feeder is the hardest one to do, as its got three bevels of very specific natures, including one that is just a hairline bevel right on the edge that is kind of hard to get on there...but, when you grind it right, it really does what Weakley uses it for.
Anyway, if you haven't read his stuff, it is really worth a read:
The micro bevel gouge may be a new term for you, some call this a bottom feeder. Let me explain when you can benefit from a micro bevel gouge…
turnawoodbowl.com
The guy is a gold mine of little secret gems like this
micro bevel bottom feeder gouge. He has some excellent technique that pretty much eliminates catches, as well. I used to catch all the time when I first started. Even had a couple bowls explode on me. First one was my first lipped vessel, or vessel where the walls closed in over the top of the bowl a bit. I was using a swept back gouge, and when trying to cut under the bottom of that lip, I put pressure on it on the back side, and the entire bowl just shattered and exploded into about 5 or 6 pieces and a few small fragments. If I had been using the bottom feeder, or micro bevel I think as Weakley usually calls it, I probably wouldn't have had that little explosion. Using his techniques, which is mostly about how to use the bevel, how to properly float the bevel, etc. I haven't had a catch....well, maybe not at all this year so far. Not with a gouge, anyway. Kent and Jimmy Clewes seem to have a lot of the same technique when it comes to using the bevel properly, and using the right gouge for the job to get and keep the right shape.