Shaping blanks

[Michael Perez]

Hello, thanks for your recommendations and encouragement to make and shape my own tools. I’ve already made a couple of tools from old HSS drill bits (a beading and teardrop tool)

Then instead of buying more turning tools I bought some Robert Sorby square scrapers on sale at Taytools, so I’m planing to use them as blanks for shaping a round scraper and a skew chisel.

For shaping my blanks I have a couple of questions before I start. I have a Rikon low speed bench grinder and a regular speed grinder, should I start with the high speed one and then continue with the low speed or it’s better to do all the grinding with the low one?

I also bought a beading and parting tool unhandled and just changed the angle with micro bevel from 35° to 50° according to Cindy Drozda recommendation (at YouTube live).

I’m working in the handle now. As the end side of the beading and parting tool is just square ,I thought maybe I should grind another shape as some brands do

or maybe it’s another treatment that they work the whole tool and maybe mine is only the cutting side that is hardened.

Happy to hear any advice from you.

 

[Dean Center]

For a square shaft, the easiest solution is to drill a round hole a little larger than the thickness of the tool, but a little less than the diagonal distance of the cross sectionl. Then just jam the tool in the hole.

For a rectangular shaft, two holes drilled side by side chiseled out or Robo Hippy's sandwich method are the easiest solutions.

As for grinder motor speed, it depends on what steel you're grinding and how well you can control the process. It's easy to press too hard or get in a hurry with the higher speed motor and cause problems, but true high speed steels can generally put up with it.

 

[Michael Perez]

Thank you very much I’m making my handle to fit it square I’ll better show pictures.

I don’t know what kind of HSS they are just bought them at Taytools the brand is Robert Sorby.

 

[robo hippy]

One of my videos about bowl turning covers putting square tangs in round handles. I make a sandwich out of the handle. The middle/pb and J or ham and cheese, is the same thickness or maybe 1/64th over, the thickness of the handle. I cut out the tang on the bandsaw, starting close to the middle and then flipping it over to make the other cuts till the tang just fits. Then glue on the bread part to the middle. Turn as you wish.

robo hippy

 

[Michael Perez]

One of my videos about bowl turning covers putting square tangs in round handles. I make a sandwich out of the handle. The middle/pb and J or ham and cheese, is the same thickness or maybe 1/64th over, the thickness of the handle. I cut out the tang on the bandsaw, starting close to the middle and then flipping it over to make the other cuts till the tang just fits. Then glue on the bread part to the middle. Turn as you wish.

robo hippy

Hello, thank you so much, after reading your message just checked your video, very smart solution and perfect easy fit. I did something similar but kinda complicated, I marked the width of the tool in the center of the handle and cut in the band saw 2" long (just the size that the tool is going to be inside the handle) and then prepared 2 pieces of wood perfect fit for the sides and leaving a square hole for the tool I think I’ll explain better myself with a picture.
greetings

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

I buy HSS from Amazon. I bought a piece 1/2” thick, 1.25“ wide and 11” long to make my scraper. Vary hard and nice piece of steel. Made a great scpaper.

 

[Dean Center]

Thank you very much I’m making my handle to fit it square I’ll better show pictures.

I don’t know what kind of HSS they are just bought them at Taytools the brand is Robert Sorby.

Your solution is fine. The HSS tools from Sorby should be truly heat tolerant steel. I'd still go slow as you learn to take off a lot of steel to make the tool you want, but it can tolerate a lot of speed.

 

[Michael Perez]

I buy HSS from Amazon. I bought a piece 1/2” thick, 1.25“ wide and 11” long to make my scraper. Vary hard and nice piece of steel. Made a great scpaper.

Hello thank you so much, its a very solid scraper.

Your solution is fine. The HSS tools from Sorby should be truly heat tolerant steel. I'd still go slow as you learn to take off a lot of steel to make the tool you want, but it can tolerate a lot of speed.

thanks so much for your advice, I’ll do all the shaping and grinding in my rikon low speed.
it’s my first time shaping an HSS blank.
greetings

 

[robo hippy]

I have seen a technique where some one will insert part of a dowel into the drilled hole on either side of a tang. To me, that will work, but take more work.

robo hippy

 

[Michael Perez]

I have seen a technique where some one will insert part of a dowel into the drilled hole on either side of a tang. To me, that will work, but take more work.

robo hippy

Thank you so much,maybe I’ll do something different for the next ones.
Do you think the one that I’m doing is ok or maybe it compromises the strength?
I’m using a thick Aluminum ferrule. I’m attaching pictures.
Then I’m going to use a couple of set screw for holding the tool and I’m going to use M4 tap or maybe is better to use and inset I have also M5 insets and set screws.
Nice week.

 

[robo hippy]

That looks fine. Some businesses will use the very thin brass ferules and then use a set 'divot' in them to hold them in place when the wood dries out. I think every single one of those I have has cracked off of that divot. I do like things overbuilt rather than underbuilt.... Too many years of concrete construction.... I didn't like my forms falling apart during a pour....

robo hippy

 

[Michael Perez]

That looks fine. Some businesses will use the very thin brass ferules and then use a set 'divot' in them to hold them in place when the wood dries out. I think every single one of those I have has cracked off of that divot. I do like things overbuilt rather than underbuilt.... Too many years of concrete construction.... I didn't like my forms falling apart during a pour....

robo hippy

Thank you so much.
have a nice day

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

This is the Scraper I made.

 

[Michael Perez]

Thanks for the pictures, your scraper looks huge and strong congratulations.

 

[Michael Perez]

This is my handle in process. I left it preturned for a while,maybe I’ll continue in 2 days because I feel the wood was kinda humid while I’ll be preparing the other tools and handles.

​

 

[Michael Perez]

Thanks to everyone in this forum for all advices and recommendation, finally I finished my first handle
im attaching some pictures.
have a great week

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

Here is a better picture of my grind.

 

[Michael Perez]

Thank you, Wow what angles do you use?

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

Thank you, Wow what angles do you use?

55 degrees and the just remove the bottom half of the bevel.

 

[Michael Perez]

55 degrees and the just remove the bottom half of the bevel.

Thanks, I’m just going to sharpen my 3/8 Glenn Lucas spindle gouge for first time and I see that it also has two bevels and I I have a doubt do I only need to sharpen the bevel in the tip of the gouge or its a must to sharpen both angles every time you go to the grinder?
greetings

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Thanks, I’m just going to sharpen my 3/8 Glenn Lucas spindle gouge for first time and I see that it also has two bevels and I I have a doubt do I only need to sharpen the bevel in the tip of the gouge or its a must to sharpen both angles every time you go to the grinder?
greetings

Probably only need to remove the heal every 2 or 3 sharpenings. Just eyeball it as anything less than full bevel is good but about 1/2 to 1/4" is usually best.

 

[Michael Perez]

Probably only need to remove the heal every 2 or 3 sharpenings. Just eyeball it as anything less than full bevel is good but about 1/2 to 1/4" is usually best.

Thank you so much, it’s really helpful
have a nice Sunday

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

You need to sharpen it for the angle you want then remove the bottom of the bevel. I only have to remove the bottom of the bevel around every third sharpening.

 

[Michael Perez]

You need to sharpen it for the angle you want then remove the bottom of the bevel. I only have to remove the bottom of the bevel around every third sharpening.

Hello Rusty, you are so kind, thank you so much. Now I see that it’s not as complicated as I though.
nice Sunday