• We just finished a fairly major forum upgrade. If you are having problems using the forums, please clear your browser cache and that should clear up any issues. Otherwise post in the Help Thread or email us at forum_moderator@aawforum.org. Happy Holidays!
  • It's time to cast your vote in the December 2024 Turning Challenge. (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Vincent Luciani for "Flower Pot" being selected as Turning of the Week for December 23, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Rikon 70-3040 review

Joined
Jan 24, 2024
Messages
31
Likes
44
Location
Verona, WI
TLDR - it’s a good, heavy duty lathe with a couple considerations. If you need a small footprint with large capacity it’s worth choosing.

The defining feature is the sliding bed. It’s how you get 30” swing and 40” spindle length in the footprint of a 20” lathe. Does it work well? Yes with one downside.

A motor slides the bed in and out. You can also disconnect the motor and move it by hand. Besides the benefit of being compact I’ve been using it instead of removing the tail stock for bowl hollowing. By sliding the bed several inches the tool rest still fits on the upper bed while the tail stock is out of the way (see picture). The downside is any shavings that fall between the upper bed ways and can get trapped in the space between the upper and lower ways. I like keeping things clean and so spend a couple of minutes after each session clearing the space with a shopvac. After turning some super wet wood I had some rust to clean out of this awkward location (also feel dumb for not covering the lathe better). Overall the sliding bed is a win, though, for me with space constraints. It’s a good choice if you have more room, there are just more options at that size.

All of the mechanical parts of the lathe are beefy. The banjo is massive and the tool rest is good and locks well. The tail stock quill has good range. The storage in my tail stock has stripped threads in the casting. Rikon support was great, someone picked up immediately, was friendly, and knowledgeable. They had new hardware in the mail in hours. I did need to align the headstock a little. The instructions were clear and the bolts easy to access, adjustment time was a few minutes.

Overall weight is around 600lbs and I’ve had 12” extremely wet oak rounds on and rarely had vibration issues. The 3HP motor does well on aggressive cuts using the low speed pulleys. In fact I’ve never taken it out of low speed doing bowls, the speed range is great. I see a low rpm around 20 and a high around 1,080 on the low pulleys.

The movable control box is plastic and feels much lighter than everything else but it doesn’t feel flimsy. The cord reaches anywhere you want to mount the lathe and is coiled so there is little slop. The magnets are plenty strong and the buttons are decent. The one issue is the speed control dial has no feedback when turning plus has low resistance. More than once I’ve bumped the speed up to maximum while turning on the lathe without realizing it! This is the #1 thing I’d like them to change. One of the product managers reached out to say they’ll review the idea. In 4 months it’s happened a handful of times, mostly when the box was in the right end of the lathe where it’s lower. I’ve asked one or two other owners if it’d happened to them and it had not.

Shipping and assembly
Everything came securely bolted to the pallet. Disassembly was all screws and bolts, no nails! Between a jet bandsaw, grizzly jointer, planer, and the lathe was the best packed.

To assemble, I cut the center of the pallet out with a sawzall. Then used a rolling car jack to lift a few inches to add blocking. A rolling lift table could then fit underneath (Harbor Freight 500# model). With the banjo and tail stock removed it lifted with no problem. One leg went on easy, but the table had to move to get out of the way of the other leg. The sketchiest part was stacking blocks to take the weight for a moment to move the lift table over.

The wheels came in later. They’re robust and move the lathe easily.

Thought I’d write this up since there are very few reviews online so far!

IMG_3247.jpeg
 
Thanks, Ross! I'm a big fan of Rikon, too. I ordered the new(ish) 70-1824SVR in 110v. It was supposed to ship in March but then was delayed until April. Knowing, this could go on for a while, I emailed Rikon customer support to ask what the real shipping date is. I got an email back from Joe Taylor, the president of Rikon. He said they had supply chain issues but it will indeed ship in early April. I'm really looking forward to it.

I couldn't quite pull the trigger on the 3040. It looks like it will be an awesome lathe for you.
 
Thanks, Ross! I'm a big fan of Rikon, too. I ordered the new(ish) 70-1824SVR in 110v. It was supposed to ship in March but then was delayed until April. Knowing, this could go on for a while, I emailed Rikon customer support to ask what the real shipping date is. I got an email back from Joe Taylor, the president of Rikon. He said they had supply chain issues but it will indeed ship in early April. I'm really looking forward to it.

I'm planning to order the 70-1420VSR tomorrow with one or possibly two bed extensions. (One for longer spindles and hopefully to keep the tailstock out of the way without removing it, and possibly a second one for outboard hollowing.) I currently have a 70-220VSR, so it will be an upgrade both in capability, and in getting a heavier-duty machine that improves upon the weaker parts of my current lathe. I've been waiting for one of those periodic 15% off sales, and Woodcraft's starts tomorrow. Looks like it won't ship until May though.
 
I'm planning to order the 70-1420VSR tomorrow with one or possibly two bed extensions. (One for longer spindles and hopefully to keep the tailstock out of the way without removing it, and possibly a second one for outboard hollowing.) I currently have a 70-220VSR, so it will be an upgrade both in capability, and in getting a heavier-duty machine that improves upon the weaker parts of my current lathe. I've been waiting for one of those periodic 15% off sales, and Woodcraft's starts tomorrow. Looks like it won't ship until May though.

I ordered the bed extension bundle for mine. It comes with a tool rest extender for outboard turning (the head swivels on the 1824).
 
I read that the tailstock is not self ejecting. Can you tell me if that is true? I have been considering the 3040 but no self ejecting is a deal breaker for me
 
Thanks, Ross! I'm a big fan of Rikon, too. I ordered the new(ish) 70-1824SVR in 110v. It was supposed to ship in March but then was delayed until April. Knowing, this could go on for a while, I emailed Rikon customer support to ask what the real shipping date is. I got an email back from Joe Taylor, the president of Rikon. He said they had supply chain issues but it will indeed ship in early April. I'm really looking forward to it.

I couldn't quite pull the trigger on the 3040. It looks like it will be an awesome lathe for you.
I was in your shoes, in November I ordered an 1824 220v! But seeing the back order date so far out made me reconsider. I convinced myself to jump to the 3040 using several mental gymnastic steps, including “it’ll hold its value” and “less likely to outgrow it”.

Hopes you like yours! Curious to see how you like it.
 
I read that the tailstock is not self ejecting. Can you tell me if that is true? I have been considering the 3040 but no self ejecting is a deal breaker for me
I’ve only used the live center it came with and it self ejects for me. But your question makes me wonder, I think the live center is hitting the cast iron itself pushing it out. I’ll see if a smaller center self ejects too.
 
I read that the tailstock is not self ejecting. Can you tell me if that is true? I have been considering the 3040 but no self ejecting is a deal breaker for me
Whole family has been sick but I found a few minutes to test. The included live center will hit the casting and pop out. Trying it with a Jacob’s chuck that didn’t hit the casting it releases but doesn’t pop out. Meaning it goes from firmly seated and very difficult to remove while the tail stock is extended to easily removed with the tail stock fully retracted.
 
Whole family has been sick but I found a few minutes to test. The included live center will hit the casting and pop out. Trying it with a Jacob’s chuck that didn’t hit the casting it releases but doesn’t pop out. Meaning it goes from firmly seated and very difficult to remove while the tail stock is extended to easily removed with the tail stock fully retracted.
I had one tail stock center on one of my lathes that did not loosen on retract. It did have a small tapped hole in the rear of the tapered portion, though. I found a small bolt of the correct thread to screw in to it and the head provided just enough extra surface for it to work nicely afterward.
 
Whole family has been sick but I found a few minutes to test. The included live center will hit the casting and pop out. Trying it with a Jacob’s chuck that didn’t hit the casting it releases but doesn’t pop out. Meaning it goes from firmly seated and very difficult to remove while the tail stock is extended to easily removed with the tail stock fully retracted.
OK Thanks for the update Doesnt sound like self ejecting but you dont need to use a knock out bar on it
 
Just got my 70-3040. It has indexing but does not have a spindle lock?? I just can't figure that one out. They very clearly state that you cannot use the indexing to remove chucks or faceplates. You have to use two wrenches to remove chucks or faceplates. Smacking my head just a bit....
 
That's odd. Certainly worth a call to customer service. Maybe the spindle lock is in some obscure location?

The 70-1420 has the same instructions. There *is* a spindle lock for indexing, but the manual specifically says it should not be used for tightening or removing chucks/faceplates/etc.
 
Perhaps inspection of the indexing components is needed. They may be sufficiently robust to remove chucks/faceplates, the mfr just states no. Obviously one would not want to “really crank on” or hit with a hammer, but removing a chuck with the key, by hand, may be fine. Of course it would void the warranty (if honest about how the failure happened). Many times mfrs are protecting themselves from egregious behavior.
 
There was a spindle lock with earlier models, but now there is only the indexing pin. I don't think the spindle lock in the earlier models was popular because it did not lock into position but was active only while your finger was on it.
 
My woodfast was that way. Lots of machining to put a real spindle lock in.
A trade off the meet a price point.

For a face plate 2 wrenches are fast.

I thought it would be annoying to not use the spindle lock, but most of the time just holding the handwheel is sufficient. About the only time I really need the wrenches is when I'm swapping the handwheel to the inside for outboard turning.
 
Just got my 70-3040. It has indexing but does not have a spindle lock?? I just can't figure that one out. They very clearly state that you cannot use the indexing to remove chucks or faceplates. You have to use two wrenches to remove chucks or faceplates. Smacking my head just a bit....

Just got my 70-3040. It has indexing but does not have a spindle lock?? I just can't figure that one out. They very clearly state that you cannot use the indexing to remove chucks or faceplates. You have to use two wrenches to remove chucks or faceplates. Smacking my head just a bit....
I’ve been using the wrenches. Pull up the tool rest and using it to keep tension on the spindle wrench. A spindle lock would be great, though. I’ve not tried using the indexing pins.

I guess the issue with a lock or pin is adding safeguards against turning the lathe on with it engaged. Adds cost to prevent or liability if someone damages their machine.
 
Thanks, Ross. It also lacks an auto ejecting feature in tail stock. Kinda... The tail spindle will actually pull back into the housing a bit and if the live center is larger than the outside of the tail spindle, it will pull out. Otherwise it's back to the knockout bar.
 
Thanks, Ross. It also lacks an auto ejecting feature in tail stock. Kinda... The tail spindle will actually pull back into the housing a bit and if the live center is larger than the outside of the tail spindle, it will pull out. Otherwise it's back to the knockout bar.
Just double checked, mine auto ejects… except the stock live center. When I put another mt2 in the tail stock that is more narrow it pops right out. The stock live center, on the other hand, has too wide a diameter and so hits the housing before retracting enough to eject. Tried it with a slightly smaller center, jammed it in there real hard, and backed it out. The center came out with the hand wheel only. Why Rikon put too large a center in would be a great question for them.
 
Just got my 70-3040. It has indexing but does not have a spindle lock?? I just can't figure that one out. They very clearly state that you cannot use the indexing to remove chucks or faceplates. You have to use two wrenches to remove chucks or faceplates. Smacking my head just a bit....

Interesting. Its little brother, the 70-1824 has a spring loaded spindle lock on the headstock. I didn't see anything like that in the photos of the 3040.
 
My understanding is it's the other way around, Rikon is a clone of the Woodfast.

The way it works is the clones use the same castings as the equivalent Woodfast model, but add, change or delete the other components.

With a lathe that unique, the two companies may have worked together (US sales vs. AU). I doubt this lathe can be bought as-is from China (vs. buying parts and assembling).
 
Back
Top