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Repurpose 1" spindle roughing gouge?

Randy Anderson

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I have a 2" and a 1" spindle roughing gouge. I use the 2" quite often to shape up blanks, bark and all, for vases and hollow forms. I seldom use my 1" gouge. Once I get it round and a bit of shape done I switch to traditional spindle or bowl gouges. Is there a different grind or shape I could put on the 1" to give it a different purpose? I noticed Richard Raffan had a smaller rouging gouge with a rounded nose that he said was an old style grind for them. I'll never use it as is on a bowl but would like to get some use out of it. I seldom do any typical spindle work.
 
If I did a lot of bigger hollow forms, I might use a bigger SRG. I have a 1 inch and a 3/4 inch, and use them exclusively. I do have a bigger continental style SRG and use it some times on bigger spindles. If I am roughing, some times I do the peeling cuts for roughing on smaller diameter pieces. I have been turning some threaded boxes, and find myself getting an okay finish off of a 1 inch skew. I do use them some times.....

robo hippy
 
I use my 1” srg for smaller blanks, and use the sides instead of a skew many times for finish cuts on smaller spindle stuff. Its good for the smaller end grain HF’s. Like you I dont use it a lot but I prefer having it vs parting ways with it.

I suppose one could grind the wings way back and use it similar to a 1” continental (flat forged) spindle gouge.
 
suppose one could grind the wings way back and use it similar to a 1” continental (flat forged) spindle gouge.

I believe deep flute is going to make it less useful with wings.
Continental gouges have a shallow wide flute and are usually ground with a wide radius and little wing

Wings on a SRG will leave the tip with less supporting steel making it prone to chatter.

To
 
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I reground the 1" SRG to be similar to the profile of the continental gouges I see online. It won't fit into my wolverine jig so I'll either freehand sharpen or make a quick jig just for it.
 
I reground the 1" SRG to be similar to the profile of the continental gouges I see online. It won't fit into my wolverine jig so I'll either freehand sharpen or make a quick jig just for it.


Be careful!!

You are experienced so you may be able to use it safely.
But you won’t have a continental gouge.

The wide edge on the SRG keeps it from digging in when it makes a catch

i don’t recommend grinding wings - It could lead to catastrophic catches.

Look at the flute on the continental gouges it is wide and shallow.
You cannot make the SRG into a continental unless you forge the the flute from a Deep U to a shallow continental flute.

Best of luck if I can’t talk you out of this path.
 
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It has a wide and very shallow flute when compared to a bowl gouge. While bigger it has the same curve profile as my existing spindle gouges. Intent for use is not bowls. It's to be able to do a bit more curve shaping on the outside of large vases before I switch to the smaller spindle gouge. Sorta in between my 2" straight ended SRG and the 1/2" spindle gouge. No way I would put it in a bowl even with the regrinding. Wrong shape and a train wreck waiting to happen.
 
Not sure. It's an inexpensive Hurricane set I got together. Here's a pic. The 1" in the middle - reground to a rounded end. Not as U shaped as the 2" on the left which has a flat nose and a bit steeper wings than the 1/2" spindle gouge on the left.
 

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Your 1” looks close to a continental
Should be fine. The continentals do insist that I ride the bevel.
If I get careless it lets me know

Below are 2 SRGS AND A continental. Your 1” does not have that deep flute.


93CFD41D-B0FF-4035-A397-AF5845159B36.jpeg
 
Thanks. Good to know. Like I said, intended use is to do more outside shaping on vases before I switch to my spindle gouge. The flat nose on the 1” made it harder to do any shape work. Better answer would be to be better at using a skew but that’s another issue.
 
Not sure. It's an inexpensive Hurricane set I got together. Here's a pic. The 1" in the middle - reground to a rounded end. Not as U shaped as the 2" on the left which has a flat nose and a bit steeper wings than the 1/2" spindle gouge on the left.

I would also call that 1" a continental gouge and your 2" a standard SRG. The 1" continental is going to be far more forgiving than a SRG for what you have in mind.

I have slightly swept back wings on an SRG and its only use anywhere near cross grain work is facing off a blank and for that matter a larger bowl gouge can do that equally as well, anyway. Otherwise this one is strictly for spindle work...

P&N 1&1-4in SRG.JPG

As we know, the danger zone (see the red X below) is in those upper parallel straight wings and the reason we keep them away from cross grain work...

P&N SRG - touble zone.jpg
I use those swept back wings on spindle work like a skew before doing the final finishing cuts with a skew.
 
Be careful!!

You are experienced so you may be able to use it safely.
But you won’t have a continental gouge.

The wide edge on the SRG keeps it from digging in when it makes a catch

i don’t recommend grinding wings - It could lead to catastrophic catches.

Look at the flute on the continental gouges it is wide and shallow.
You cannot make the SRG into a continental unless you forge the the flute from a Deep U to a shallow continental flute.

Best of luck if I can’t talk you out of this path.
Completely agree! Well stated.....
 
The standard SRGs are more of a half round shape flute. I don't think they would work well with much sweep to them. A tiny bit wouldn't hurt. I do use the square ends for peeling cuts. When doing the peeling cuts with the wings, the wing in use has to be down on the tool rest, not the round bottom of the flute. The ones you show in your pictures I would call the continental style. You can do peeling cuts with them, but not well. They are great for those of us who don't care for skew chisels....

robo hippy
 
Appreciate all the comments, pictures and cautions. It has one intended purpose - shaping the outside of large vases. I used it today to shape a large 12" tall willow vase. Worked as intended and a big help. I left a decent bevel on it to ensure I had something to ride and guide me but was easy to control and no tendency to grab, skate or misbehave. Too big for my wolverine jig so had to quickly fab one from a wood block and leg. Fixed to the angle I need so only use is for sharpening the new tool. Final detail shaping with my 1/2" spindle gouge and done.
 
Appreciate all the comments, pictures and cautions. It has one intended purpose - shaping the outside of large vases. I used it today to shape a large 12" tall willow vase. Worked as intended and a big help. I left a decent bevel on it to ensure I had something to ride and guide me but was easy to control and no tendency to grab, skate or misbehave. Too big for my wolverine jig so had to quickly fab one from a wood block and leg. Fixed to the angle I need so only use is for sharpening the new tool. Final detail shaping with my 1/2" spindle gouge and done.
What do mean when say it is too big for wolverine jig? Can you be more specific.
 
If you are in a club, great tool for a small lathe. I have 3/4 I use on small lathes.

Our club has three ways people reduce their tool inventory
Sales table
Give away table
Donate to the Raffle table.

You may know someone who is starting with a limited income.
Sorry to change the topic, but Al, can you comment how your club handles the Give away table? Is it first come, first served? Or do you have a system so that everyone who wants the free item has an equal shot at getting it?

I'm asking because my flat woodworking club sometimes has give away items. They always go first come first serve, the earliest bird getting the worm so to speak. It sometimes appears that folks are disappointed by this approach. I'm
 
Sorry to change the topic, but Al, can you comment how your club handles the Give away table? Is it first come, first served? Or do you have a system so that everyone who wants the free item has an equal shot at getting it?

I'm asking because my flat woodworking club sometimes has give away items. They always go first come first serve, the earliest bird getting the worm so to speak. It sometimes appears that folks are disappointed by this approach. I'm
give away table is first come first takes…. But often the Bringer announces the availability during the meeting.
the interested go there during the break.
 
Sorry to change the topic, but Al, can you comment how your club handles the Give away table? Is it first come, first served? Or do you have a system so that everyone who wants the free item has an equal shot at getting it?

I'm asking because my flat woodworking club sometimes has give away items. They always go first come first serve, the earliest bird getting the worm so to speak. It sometimes appears that folks are disappointed by this approach. I'm
Might they consider a "Chinese auction" ? each item gets an I.D. Number, and then tickets (at fund raisers, they're like 10 tickets for $5 or some such) issued - members can get X number of free tickets to start with (often simple theater tickets with preprinted numbers are used) , with their tickets being "registered" by the ticket numbers to their name (typically the range of continuous numbers - saves filling out name, etc info on a ticket) and if they want additional (so as to weight their chances higher) they could buy extras at whatever price you decide on (proceeds going to club coffers, perhaps) - Ticket represents a "bid" on the item and at the end of the event, ticket is drawn from each bid bucket that is attached to each item (or to table in front of them) for the winner of the item (So more tickets bid into an item, higher chances your ticket gets drawn?) . Not only might that help with the "Dang it I was too slow" feeling some folks might get, but can raise funds for the club?
 
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