Replacing the set screws in handles

[Sam Fleisher]

One of my pet peeves is fiddling around with the set screws when I need to remove my gouge to sharpen.
I know d-way makes the quick release knobs but they are a different thread count than the thompson handles that I use.
Are the d-way tools similar to the thompson in that there isn't enough room for two of the knobs?
Places make knobs with the correct stud in them for the thompson threads (5/16-24) and I thought I'd go that route. Anyone do anything similar or use the d-way knobs? Is one screw sufficient to hold the gouge in the handle?

Thanks

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Don't think one screw is sufficient . I have never cared for the knob just looks unbalanced. As to set screws, T handle or like t,he one I made much smaller than a T handle with a square solid AL bar (1/2 inch) about 3 inches long , drill hole for allen and thread at 90 degree for set screw. It is small and handy.

 

[Tom Albrecht]

I'm with Gerald on the need for two screws. I also have a few Thompson knobs that I don't use because they get in the way. My best set screw tool is the short T-handle made by Trent Bosch: Super Allen Wrenches

 

[Doug Freeman]

I hold a short t handle on the grinder with a rare earth magnet, (almost) always there when needed. When you cut off the too long wrench, put a small bevel on the end, and deburr with a wire wheel. Inserts into the screw head much easier. Also, like jaw screws, dont torque the livin *#%+ out of ‘em. Just a bit more than snug holds my tools just fine (snug holds jaw screws just fine)

1 screw probably holds a 3/8 sg or other smaller tool (the Thompson 3/8” tool holder inserts only have 1 screw).

 

[Sam Fleisher]

I hold a short t handle on the grinder with a rare earth magnet, (almost) always there when needed. When you cut off the too long wrench, put a small bevel on the end, and deburr with a wire wheel. Inserts into the screw head much easier. Also, like jaw screws, dont torque the livin *#%+ out of ‘em. Just a bit more than snug holds my tools just fine (snug holds jaw screws just fine)

1 screw probably holds a 3/8 sg or other smaller tool (the Thompson 3/8” tool holder inserts only have 1 screw).

I didn't know that about the 3/8 handles. That was one of my long term plans was to get the small thompson handle and use it with a d-way beading tool which I believe is a 3/8.

**EDIT** The Thompson handle with one set screw is the 1/4 inch handle per Doug Thompson.

 

[robo hippy]

I do use the D Way tool handles for my NRSs. Not a problem if they vibrate loose since I am taking such light cuts. I some times use the gouges with them, but not as much. I learned to sharpen with the handles on my tools, so no other issues. If you want the tool secure, both set screws need to be in and tight.

robo hippy

 

[Mike Novak]

I have started leaving the handle on for sharpening. I set the handle to be the stop so projection is right when put into jig. Reset it every few sharpenings.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

I have started leaving the handle on for sharpening. I set the handle to be the stop so projection is right when put into jig. Reset it every few sharpenings.

So your gouge only sticks out of your handle 2 inches or so? Or do you use something other than a vari grind?

 

[Doug Freeman]

I didn't know that about the 3/8 handles. That was one of my long term plans was to get the small thompson handle and use it with a d-way beading tool which I believe is a 3/8.

**EDIT** The Thompson handle with one set screw is the 1/4 inch handle per Doug Thompson.

Yes it is the 1/4” not 3/8”. Im talking about inserts, not entire handles. I make the wooden handle and use one of these (only for large gouges, for sharpening):

Cindy Drozda - Tool Handle Adapters

Elegant, Exquisite, Museum Quality Lidded Finial Vessels and Urns hand made by Woodturner and Artist, Cindy Drozda. Woodturning instruction, Demonstrations and Instructional DVDs.

www.cindydrozda.com

 

[Mike Novak]

So your gouge only sticks out of your handle 2 inches or so? Or do you use something other than a vari grind?

I use a Tormek jig. 75mm protruding, plus another inch for the jig gives almost 4”.

 

[hughie]

In my case, some have set screws, some have knobs. My go-to gouges get more sharpening than the other, so they will have a knob. There are a couple of things you can do to increase the holder power, one is to make sure the end of the screw is flat but give it a chamfer, say 1/32 or 1mm this will allow for compression swelling that will happen over time and then you cant get the darn thing out. The other is to give the locking screw a good landing position, that is file a flat spot or if you're really desperate drill a small recess, say around 1/16 or so. But I have found the flat is more than enough to do the job.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

In my case, some have set screws, some have knobs. My go-to gouges get more sharpening than the other, so they will have a knob. There are a couple of things you can do to increase the holder power, one is to make sure the end of the screw is flat but give it a chamfer, say 1/32 or 1mm this will allow for compression swelling that will happen over time and then you cant get the darn thing out. The other is to give the locking screw a good landing position, that is file a flat spot or if you're really desperate drill a small recess, say around 1/16 or so. But I have found the flat is more than enough to do the job.

Good to remind about the chamfer. I bought knobs with the stud already in them fairly long intending to cut them to length. I use thompson handles and one of them I've already dropped an aluminium (see what i did there) lol tube in it so that the gouge will protrude the same length every time. Won't be a problem putting a small flat spot and hitting it with the screw.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

I do use the D Way tool handles for my NRSs. Not a problem if they vibrate loose since I am taking such light cuts. I some times use the gouges with them, but not as much. I learned to sharpen with the handles on my tools, so no other issues. If you want the tool secure, both set screws need to be in and tight.

robo hippy

I have to much real estate out in front of me to make it easy to sharpen with the handles on. My first good gouges I bought I made my own handles and am contemplating removing them somehow and putting them in a handle with the set screws or knobs or if I ever figure out the names of what all I need to put a collet on the end of a homemade handle I'd go that route. I'm just too tight to pay what robust wants for their collet system.

 

[Brian Gustin]

or if I ever figure out the names of what all I need to put a collet on the end of a homemade handle I'd go that route. I'm just too tight to pay what robust wants for their collet system.

Try stopping by a plumbing or hardware store, ask to look at their compression fittings (take a gouge or two, or some bar stock close to the size of your gouge bars along with you) They'd make a "poor man's" collet system if you can get fittings of a suitable size to match your bar stock.. (of course you'll need to keep a wrench nearby grinder to loosen and re-tighten the compression nuts)

 

[Sam Fleisher]

I like the looks of this thing, I'm just not sure if it would work. I know it needs the specific size collet installed but I would like to find one similar to the robust with the longer nose and not needing a wrench.

The silver one is $39 and the black one is $26.

 

[Dennis Weiner]

@Sam Fleisher At least with the robust system, the shaft of the turning tool can protrude in the collet if you hollow out some of the handle's diameter. This style of collet chuck does not allow this option. That being said it may limit its use.
Regardless, I don't like collet chucks for woodturning handles, Period. There are more effective, productive methods, and economical ways to make detachable handles. For further info, you may wish to read this thread:

https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/collet-based-quick-change-handles.19795/#post-201589

 

[Sam Fleisher]

@Sam Fleisher At least with the robust system, the shaft of the turning tool can protrude in the collet if you hollow out some of the handle's diameter. This style of collet chuck does not allow this option. That being said it may limit its use.
Regardless, I don't like collet chucks for woodturning handles, Period. There are more effective, productive methods, and economical ways to make detachable handles. For further info, you may wish to read this thread:

https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/collet-based-quick-change-handles.19795/#post-201589

Well, that turned out to be going down a rabbit hole! lol A whole other realm of possibilities opened up! Where did you end up with your handles?

 

[Dennis Weiner]

Well, that turned out to be going down a rabbit hole! lol A whole other realm of possibilities opened up! Where did you end up with your handles?

I make my own Cam lock mechanism that accepts a round 3/4" steel or aluminum adapter. This adapter size holds mostly all my turning tools and boring bars that are 3/4" and under. The adapter is drilled to fit the woodturning tool whether the tool is round, square, or tanged. The tool is permanently secured to the adapter by set screws. I have inserted this mechanism in black pipe, aluminum tubes, wood, and even PVC. Like most turners, I bought tools that came with handles. I am unlikely to convert these tools to fit in cam handles but going forward any new tools I buy are unhandled. Luckily, I also bought many tools unhandled that fit into my Legacy Serious Lathe Tools cam handle that I purchased many years ago.

Wooden handle with cam lock.

https://www.aawforum.org/community/attachments/18bcc7eb-6e6a-405d-93a8-268bd49126c7-jpeg.44716/

 

[Sam Fleisher]

I had seen that picture, any diagrams of the mechanism?