question about basics of tool control/position

[Sam Fleisher]

A post about aaw membership got me wondering about this.

In the main database that is talked about on the aaw site are there videos that would teach a person or show a person some basic repetitive exercises to work on the basic tool control? Kind of like having a workbook when you were in grade school to work on basic stuff repeatedly to attain "muscle memory" and make better cuts with the tools.

 

[Brian Gustin]

A post about aaw membership got me wondering about this.

In the main database that is talked about on the aaw site are there videos that would teach a person or show a person some basic repetitive exercises to work on the basic tool control? Kind of like having a workbook when you were in grade school to work on basic stuff repeatedly to attain "muscle memory" and make better cuts with the tools.

I think it's called a bead and cove stick?

and for the more advanced, fine control skills, there's that (I cant remember what it's called?) bragging rights stick (where you turn a LONG spindle finial that is so thin you could just about bend it into a hoop without breaking it)

I've done (and sometimes still do when I get a piece of wood on the lathe that I screw up my design via a catch or bad tool control!) the Bead and cove stick , but never have I tried the "brag stick" mainly because there is no way that shaky harbor freight 12x36 lathe could manage it (Vibration that is inherent to its design/construction) though I HAVE managed some nice thin finial turnings (But the time to achieve it is usually more than it is worth)

 

[Dean Center]

I suspect that the answer for most of us is, make a lot of stuff and pay attention while you do.

There are numerous little things, bevel on the wood, angle of the edge, soft hands, feet position, handle hand position, turning with big muscles, etc., that everyone knows about which need to be part of your mechanics to make the best cut. Maybe it would be called "turning mindfully"--noticing those little things and striving for the best cut whenever you're turning. I believe many people accept a rough surface as good enough, and never grow any further.

As Brian mentions, a bead and cove stick is great practice for those skills, but I don't believe there is an equivalent for cross-grain or hollowing work, except "make 50 of them".

 

[Dave Landers]

I assume you're asking to evaluate the value of a membership... Those benefits are listed here.

Membership gets you all back issues of the journal online, as well as stuff like woodturning fundamentals (quarterly) and the Learning Portal with a collection of videos all categorized by topic (Skills, Sharrpening, Safety, Wood, etc).

There's also a collection of external (that is, YouTube, Vimeo, etc) videos at all levels. So, yeah, you might be able to dig up some of these on you own but the AAW has reviewed this list for safety and content. The search interface is sorta clunky (allows search of articles as well as videos). But you can select, for example, Video and check "Beginner" and you get, among a bunch of other things, over 2 dozen videos from Stuart Batty on his "7 Fundamentals". Good stuff.

You can save $12/year by opting out of the mailed Journal with a digital only membership - you get all the online stuff but skip the 6 yearly issues mailed to you.

There's also a thing they call Affiliate Membership - which is full access to everything, free for 3 months, as a 'kick the tires' sort of trial.

 

[robo hippy]

You can't beat a hands on session with a mentor. Other than that, from a martial arts instructor years ago....

Teacher, am I doing this right?
10,000 more times!
But teacher, that is what you said last time!
Well then, 10,000 more times!

Repetition helps. The thing about a good mentor is that they can spot the little things right away and correct some thing that would take you weeks or months to figure out for yourself.

robo hippy

 

[Sam Fleisher]

You can't beat a hands on session with a mentor. Other than that, from a martial arts instructor years ago....

Teacher, am I doing this right?
10,000 more times!
But teacher, that is what you said last time!
Well then, 10,000 more times!

Repetition helps. The thing about a good mentor is that they can spot the little things right away and correct some thing that would take you weeks or months to figure out for yourself.

robo hippy

ya but, I want to make sure what I'm repeating is the best,correct and right way to do things... It's always best to get a third or fourth opinion..

"trust no one grasshopper" (or at least be suspect of their claims/abilities)

 

[Rick Urban]

You can't beat a hands on session with a mentor. Other than that, from a martial arts instructor years ago....

Teacher, am I doing this right?
10,000 more times!
But teacher, that is what you said last time!
Well then, 10,000 more times!

Repetition helps. The thing about a good mentor is that they can spot the little things right away and correct some thing that would take you weeks or months to figure out for yourself.

robo hippy

Amen! Very important for new turners.

 

[Daniel Henry]

ya but, I want to make sure what I'm repeating is the best,correct and right way to do things... It's always best to get a third or fourth opinion..

"trust no one grasshopper" (or at least be suspect of their claims/abilities)

Only if those third or fourth opinions are valid and/or legitimate. IMHO that are very few if any correct and right ways to do things. For these words imply the reverse, incorrect or wrong. There are however, many best practices.
I freely admit that I tried it without a mentor. But only until I found one.

 

[Mike Novak]

Daniel

There may be more than one right way, but I can attest that there are plenty of wrong ways too! I have discovered them myself and seen them on YouTube. As a student, it’s really helpful to see a right way, especially if it comes with an explanation of why it’s right for that situation.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

I think it's called a bead and cove stick?

and for the more advanced, fine control skills, there's that (I cant remember what it's called?) bragging rights stick (where you turn a LONG spindle finial that is so thin you could just about bend it into a hoop without breaking it)

I've done (and sometimes still do when I get a piece of wood on the lathe that I screw up my design via a catch or bad tool control!) the Bead and cove stick , but never have I tried the "brag stick" mainly because there is no way that shaky harbor freight 12x36 lathe could manage it (Vibration that is inherent to its design/construction) though I HAVE managed some nice thin finial turnings (But the time to achieve it is usually more than it is worth)

This would be better with confirmation of "the right way " to present the tool to the work etc. before making one. Even though I can get somewhere with a bowl in the end, it would be nice to know that I was doing it "best practices" in the first place.

I did try a one hour basic class a while back at a wood shop but I guess it wasn't what I thought I needed. It was a basic bowl turning and the other two guys didn't have lathes and were just seeing if they liked turning.

Guess I need to find a one on one person and go over my cutting, bevel positions etc.. Someone that can teach/explain to me the reason it is placed the way it is. Reassurance that I'm doing it right. That's what's hard to see in a video.

I am at a point for instance where I'll be trying to get a better finish on an outside curve of a bowl and I know something isn't right but I don't know if it's equipment or me. I'm leaning more towards me probably. Plus I'd really like not using the 80 grit gouge so much.

 

[hockenbery]

This would be better with confirmation of "the right way " to present the tool to the work etc. before making one. Even though I can get somewhere with a bowl in the end, it would be nice to know that I was doing it "best practices" in the first place.

The right way with cutting tools begins with
ABC- Anchor. Bevel. Cut

Anchor- tool on the tool rest not touching the wood
Bevel - bevel on the woot tool not cutting
Cut- Move the tool to engage the cutting edge. Follow the cut with the bevel lightl

Back should be straight - don’t lean over
Handle held against you side when appropriate.

Handle against left thigh cut made by rotating the body
ABC
Handle against my side ABC

 

[hockenbery]

am at a point for instance where I'll be trying to get a better finish on an outside curve of a bowl and I know something isn't right but I don't know if it's equipment or me

The main thing here I use to prevent tearout is sharp tools and light and lighter cuts.
I work from the foot to the rim in stages from smooth into rough.
The bottom near the foot is rarely warped much. I and get an inch or so really smooth.
Two cuts
Then bevel on the smooth I go another inch or two in steps - interrupted cuts
3 cuts
As I work up it is more cuts

Then several light cuts foot to rim

Then shear scraping.

 

[Dean Center]

Guess I need to find a one on one person and go over my cutting, bevel positions etc.. Someone that can teach/explain to me the reason it is placed the way it is. Reassurance that I'm doing it right. That's what's hard to see in a video.

I am at a point for instance where I'll be trying to get a better finish on an outside curve of a bowl and I know something isn't right but I don't know if it's equipment or me. I'm leaning more towards me probably. Plus I'd really like not using the 80 grit gouge so much.

YES! Spend an afternoon with a mentor. It's worth at least 2 years of videos.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

YES! Spend an afternoon with a mentor. It's worth at least 2 years of videos.

I couldn’t agree more.