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Priority scraper shapes?

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I have the scrapers listed below, am thinking I'd like to re-shape one or two for specific tasks. Will be turning small bowls, and lidded boxes. What will be the high-priority, most useful shapes I could have to start with? One that I'm interested in is shown briefly by Carl Jacobson in this video, a small scraper for use inside boxes to flatten the bottom and finish the sides (screen shot below).

  • (2) "normal" 1/2" round-nose
  • (1) 1/2" round-nose factory ground at 30 degrees
  • (1) 3/4" round-nose
  • (1) 1" square
  • (1) 3/4" curved (left side)
  • Sorby hollowing multi-tip set

Are there other examples of a dedicated box scraper that you think would be good to look at?

JacobsonBoxScraper.jpg
 

Bill Boehme

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Here is basically what I have:

This half-round scraper is for inside curves. It is great for the inside curve on bowls and similar shapes. I5t also can be used for shear scraping.

B828192_828H_Curved_Scraper_Handled.jpg

This one is a box scraper that is used for a square corner at the bottom of a box and other similar purposes.

B825192_825H_Diamond_Side_Cut_Scraper_Handled.jpg

This one gets used a lot for things ranging from boxes with a rounded corner at the bottom to the recessed foot on the bottom of a vessel.

B824192_824H-Round_Side__Cut_Scraper_Handled.jpg

The square end scraper has lots of uses from flattening a face to final tweaking on the exterior of turnings. It is great for shear scraping outside curves.

B823132_823H_Square_End_Scraper_Handled.jpg

This hardwood scrap which is a NRS gets very little use and I might decide to repurpose it for something more useful to me.

B821192_821H_Hardwood_Scraper_Handled.jpg

I have a bunch of scrapers, but they are mostly variations of the ones shown here. I have a few specialty scrapers that are made for just a single purpose.
 
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RNS not that useful? Shaping a Diamond/Side cut...

[Snip]
This one is a box scraper that is used for a square corner at the bottom of a box and other similar purposes.


[Snip]View attachment 8739

Bill, this one looks like the 825H "Diamond/Side Cut Box Scraper," right? That's similar to what Carl Jacobson has made and what I was thinking about doing with one of the 1/2" RN scrapers. Could be a challenge to shape it though? Might be better buying one (next month) and shaping one of the 1/2" into a smaller square scraper, or a rounded side-cut for curved transitions. I'm really glad I already have the big curved scraper. Sounds like you don't find the standard RNS very useful at all!
 
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Well, one can never have too many. For specialized box scrapers, I don't use the square tipped ones. Mostly I found the square corner in the bottoms too difficult to do. My preference is a radius edge, and I will use a small carbide tipped scraper (the Eliminator) which is at a 45 degree shear angle. For bowls, I prefer the swept back to the left side scrapers, which used to be called inside scrapers from the time BC (before chucks) when you screwed the bowl to a face plate and turned it without reversing. AC, I use it both inside and outside for heavy roughing. I use it on the outside for shear scraping, and drop the handle way down, and shear scrape with the wing, not the nose. I never try to do finish cuts with the scraper flat on the tool rest. I just get much better results if I shear cut. On the inside, for shear scraping, I use one with a ) nose profile. Drop the handle a bit, which makes it impossible to get high sided and catch (same thing happens with a skew if you work too high on it), and do pull cuts. I don't use the scrapers flat to clean up the bottom or the transition. I shear scrape, or get it with the gouge. A round nose is good for all of the above if you only have one. A negative rake scraper is a good tool to have. I have found it to be most useful for end grain on boxes. I get mixed results on bowls though, and harder woods will cut cleaner with them than softer woods, and again, the shear scraping seems to work better for me. I do use a skew with a convex grind when I am doing threaded boxes so get the male part dead parallel to the sides and ways of the lathe. I use a more square ended one for the female part, and the side is angled back a bit to compensate for the curve of the box side. I see no need for any scraper over 1 1/4 inch wide and 3/8 thick. Just too much steel hanging out for the potential to get too much steel into the wood at one time. I can stall my Beauty with a 1 inch wide scraper. I am on the Brute Squad though... Oh, mine are all ground to about 70 degrees, and use the burr from the CBN wheel. Carl's video must be older. He is using the Woodcraft Green River diamond grinding wheel, which they haven't made in a while. I would expect as good of a burr from it as I get from my CBN wheels.

robo hippy
 

odie

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Jamie, I have several specially ground scrapers for various tasks, but I have one you might want to consider for cleanly shaped tenons on your bowls. It's just a standard 1/2" square nose scraper where the front leading edge is ground back a little more on the left side so that it angles back. The side of the right frontal edge is also ground just slightly so that the corner has a burr on both leading and right side edges. Looking from the top, the angle made from the leading and right side edges is slightly less than 90°, so that the corner of the tenon can be addressed at those two intersecting surfaces alternately. The burr straight from the grinder is sufficient for this purpose, since it's not a finishing cut.

Although I am strictly a face plate w/waste block turner, I do use a tenon gripped by a chuck for roughing bowls that need further seasoning prior to attaining moisture stabilization.

ko
 
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Speaking of burrs...

I'll digest all that detail this afternoon, thanks, but in the meantime...sharpened and used one scraper on a well-dried bowl last night. The only burr that formed was at the bottom of the bevel. What?! At least that was the only one I could feel. It cut pretty well, nice thin shavings, but not as well as I expected. I've read about sharpening a scraper upside-down, but not really something I want to do.:confused:
 
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I'll digest all that detail this afternoon, thanks, but in the meantime...sharpened and used one scraper on a well-dried bowl last night. The only burr that formed was at the bottom of the bevel. What?! At least that was the only one I could feel. It cut pretty well, nice thin shavings, but not as well as I expected. I've read about sharpening a scraper upside-down, but not really something I want to do.:confused:

That is the way I sharpen mine. Seems like someone on here said Jimmie Clewes does that way.
It is not difficult. Just set the table on your grinder up instead of down and sharpen.
 
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Stone-age

I'll digest all that detail this afternoon, thanks, but in the meantime...sharpened and used one scraper on a well-dried bowl last night. The only burr that formed was at the bottom of the bevel. What?! At least that was the only one I could feel. It cut pretty well, nice thin shavings, but not as well as I expected. I've read about sharpening a scraper upside-down, but not really something I want to do.:confused:

Well, no online activity or turning this afternoon -- our first big wind-storm of the season, vast majority of the island lost power. We were just about to go across the bridge to the casino (yuck) to see if we could get dinner there when the power came back on! I had unplugged the lathe, in case the electronic variable speed might be sensitive to power spikes. Lost the control on my shop pellet stove years ago due to that.
 

john lucas

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For whatever reason we lose power here all the time. It's like living in a third world country. I'm going to start really complaining. We didn't even have a storm or anything Friday morning and the power went out at 4 am. came back on at 8. Don't know what that was all about. Perfectly clear weather. I use a vacuum chuck all the time and had the lights go out in my basement shop about 6 years back. The big bowl flew off and was bouncing around the room and I couldn't even see where to duck. Put an accumulator on it so it now takes about 25 seconds to lose the vacuum.
 
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Scraper shape, like a lot of other things in turning, is often a function of what you make a lot of and personal preference. Here is a great video on conventional scraping. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq5uUDMFi5M
For boxes, I like to use a box scraper like the one Brian illustrates at the end of the video for inside walls. I have found little use for many of the Sorby shapes shown earlier, but that is just my preference.

I also like a large spear point scraper similar to the one Richard Raffan uses but I reground mine from an old 1" skew that I was not using from a HF set of tools.
 

Bill Boehme

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For whatever reason we lose power here all the time. It's like living in a third world country. I'm going to start really complaining. We didn't even have a storm or anything Friday morning and the power went out at 4 am. came back on at 8. Don't know what that was all about. Perfectly clear weather. I use a vacuum chuck all the time and had the lights go out in my basement shop about 6 years back. The big bowl flew off and was bouncing around the room and I couldn't even see where to duck. Put an accumulator on it so it now takes about 25 seconds to lose the vacuum.

I wish that I had been there with a video camera to record that except for the fact that there weren't any light. :rolleyes: I can picture it in my mind anyway. Are your pupils still dilated? ... and did you decide that you needed a fresh change of clothes?
 

Bill Boehme

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Bill, this one looks like the 825H "Diamond/Side Cut Box Scraper," right? That's similar to what Carl Jacobson has made and what I was thinking about doing with one of the 1/2" RN scrapers. Could be a challenge to shape it though? Might be better buying one (next month) and shaping one of the 1/2" into a smaller square scraper, or a rounded side-cut for curved transitions. I'm really glad I already have the big curved scraper. Sounds like you don't find the standard RNS very useful at all!

When I bought the tool it had a different name, but yes it is the same thing. You won't be able to do that with the Sorby NRS for a couple reasons. First the Sorby NRS is only intended for very fine clean-up cuts on hard woods (as in "hard" wood and not hardwood). The bur is very tiny and only lasts for a few seconds. The instructions that come with the tool will tell you this. Of course you can change it by regrinding to whatever you want. Secondly the tool profile won't allow you to get into the corner of a box.

I have never actually turner a box with a square corner at the bottom, but I use the tool a lot for other things where I want to make a small square corner such as the inside bottom of a foot.

When doing the bottom corner of a box whether square or curved, you want a tool where the shank angles away from what you are cutting or else you will find that the shank is rubbing against the side of the box and preventing the tip from reaching the corner.
 
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