• We just finished moving the forums to a new hosting server. It looks like everything is functioning correctly but if you find a problem please report it in the Forum Technical Support Forum (click here) or email us at forum_moderator AT aawforum.org. Thanks!
  • Beware of Counterfeit Woodturning Tools (click here for details)
  • Johnathan Silwones is starting a new AAW chapter, Southern Alleghenies Woodturners, in Johnstown, PA. (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Dave Roberts for "2 Hats" being selected as Turning of the Week for April 22, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Planning on buying a new lathe...

Joined
May 14, 2006
Messages
61
Likes
0
Location
Vantucky, WA (Vancouver)
Website
www.myspace.com
I am saving up for a new lathe. I am trying to save up $1200. figured $1,000 for the lathe and $200+/- for a chuck system to go with it.

I have had my eye on the NOVA 1624-44 by Teknatool. I've been really leaning towards it. Anyone have one and pros or cons to it? Has anyone had one and upgraded the headstock to the DVR? Any problems or break downs?

If I were to save up any more, it'll take a lot long time to obtain my goal of getting a new lathe, But for the features it has, looks like it could be the lathe for me for a loonngg time.

Any feedback, greatly appreciated.

Gothyc Designs
 
Joined
May 16, 2005
Messages
3,540
Likes
15
I'm using the predecessor 3000, and he's been a good one since I tuned him up after the former owner. I've done a few hundred pieces on him and haven't found anything bad except what I discovered early on. They list the swing as 400mm - this is correct. It is also 15.75" vs 16", so be warned on that first piece you want to make full size.

It looks like they've changed the welding of the toolrest a bit on the evolving model, but the thing's still leaning forward as it should to get you in close where you need to be on concave (below center) or convex (above) cuttings. As furnished it'll cut your hands, so draw file leading and trailing edges on top right away.

It's got the "special" motor with the larger shaft diameter to compensate for an engineering problem with the original (Leeson VS regularly broke), but it shouldn't make a lot of difference, because a slipping belt doesn't hurt much except an aggressive cut, while a tight one can hurt you and the machine.

Go to the Teknatool site and the Nova Owners' group to read the FWW review, and when the inevitable "it's lightweight" comment comes in, remember that all lathes are bolted to their stands, which can be of any weight. In a small shop like mine an open stand that carries nothing isn't earning its keep any more than one which carries sand, so I use a cabinet base. The lathe keeps its parts rigidly in alignment well, though swinging the head back and forth will certainly require more care and verification than not.
 
Joined
May 29, 2004
Messages
995
Likes
2
Location
billerica, ma
Off the top of my head, I can't think of any other lathe at that price point that I'd really recommend. The nova has its limitations but is well built and common enough to be easilly serviced.

Have you looked into used? Sometimes going for a functional, well beaten, used from a local club member who's upgrading will hold you till you can scrape up pennies to get the mustard monster or higher.

Dietrich
 

john lucas

AAW Forum Expert
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
Messages
8,337
Likes
3,595
Location
Cookeville, TN
I agree with the others the Nova 3000 was my 3rd upgrade before I moved on to the Powermatic. It's a good lathe for the money and don't know of anything else in the price range I would recommend.
Look at the Grizzly copy of the vicmarc chuck. That will keep your price down so you can buy a better grinder.
 
Joined
May 14, 2006
Messages
61
Likes
0
Location
Vantucky, WA (Vancouver)
Website
www.myspace.com
Thanks guys !! I knew the right place to ask. I remember at some point someone else asking about it a while ago, but couldn't find a thread so still thought to ask.

I really do not see myself doing really large pieces, but it'll allow some if I get the itch. Most of the turnings will be pens, bowls, vases or vessels, wands and such. Some may think it a waste of machinery for small things. But I figured it would be a realiable product to last me for what I want vs a $4k lathe. I'll definitely look into a club that may have some used ones. I'm local to the Portland OR area, but was not able to attend the show. Hope all sho went had a good time.

Thanks again, I'll let you know when I get it. If anyone has anything else to add that comes across this, please give your input or feedback anytime. or you can contact me privately.

Thanks Again. :cool2:
Ray
Gothyc Designs
 
Joined
May 14, 2006
Messages
61
Likes
0
Location
Vantucky, WA (Vancouver)
Website
www.myspace.com
Hey John L.,

Do you happen to remember the model # of the Grizzly chuck you mentioned?

In general, when turning bowls or vessels, what is the average dia. a base is turned too? Thats my only thing about finding a chuck. Some seem to be for smaller work of 2" and under, that just seems really small. I guess I would what something that can take up to a 3.5" dia. or a chuck that can change the jaws well enough to handle up to that dia.

I'm just making sure that what I get will be it for a while. At some point I would like to have 2-3 different chucks for easy switching out. But budget will only tell.

Thanks for any comments or advise. :)

Later,

Gothyc Designs


P.S. Anyone know of any link or tutorials on making screw chucks? Something that has decent pics and instructions. Thanks again.

GD
 
Last edited:
Joined
May 16, 2005
Messages
3,540
Likes
15
GothycDesigns said:
In general, when turning bowls or vessels, what is the average dia. a base is turned too? Thats my only thing about finding a chuck. Some seem to be for smaller work of 2" and under, that just seems really small. I guess I would what something that can take up to a 3.5" dia. or a chuck that can change the jaws well enough to handle up to that dia.

The base is turned to what the turner feels looks and serves the piece. No harm in holding in a 2" recess and keeping an extra inch or even two of wood around it if you're making a 15" dough bowl. Different if you're making a show bowl. Same with a tenon you'll part off. Makes no difference how big the shoulder is.

What should concern you is the dimension and weight of the work. Jaws work best within a small range, in or out, and then it's the turner who has to make concessions in the way they turn to compensate for a less than optimum hold. You end up corner gripping outside or risk rotating inside of your mortise if they are too large. I work only inboard (so far) on my Nova, so I have little need for anything over the standard 50mm jaws on a standard bowl. I do own the 75s, but I use them almost exclusively in an exterior grip on long work. They impose a limit of a minimum 3.25" recess, more than looks good on a bowl under 10" with an extra quarter inch surround. The power grip 4" jaws that came standard with a Super seldom see use. If I turn outboard some day, perhaps they will.

I guess what I'm saying is 1" pin, 2" and 3" dovetail in/out woud be a good stable of jaws for small to maximum turning. The range won't cramp your creative style, and will hold what you can turn.
 
Joined
Jul 28, 2005
Messages
390
Likes
124
Location
Alexandria, VA
GothycDesigns said:

Thats the one, sorry. I had pasted a link to the one I have, but since it might not have been the same spindle size I linked to the page instead.
I have heard pretty positive things about this chuck.
I have had mine for a week, it seems to be constructed ok.
The fit and finish is acceptable for the price.
I may take a file to some of the outside edges that are pretty sharp.
It had been soaked in oil and comes packed in a plastic bag.
Take care the first time you put it on the lathe and spin it up. Oil will fly.

Mark.
 
Joined
Mar 7, 2006
Messages
149
Likes
0
Location
Hanover, MD
I have been using the Grizzly chuck for over a year and a half and have had no problems with it except the ones I create myself :cool:

I have also purchased after-market add-ons like the Vicmarc Shark Jaws and the 10" Cole Jaws. They fit the Grizzly perfectly.
 
Joined
May 14, 2006
Messages
61
Likes
0
Location
Vantucky, WA (Vancouver)
Website
www.myspace.com
Thanks guys. I'll keep that on in mind for the purchase. The lathe I'm looking into which is mentioned early on in this thread, is the Nova 1624-44. I think the spindle is a 1" dia.x 8TPI, if wrong please correct me. I guess that chuck is offered with a couple of different size inserts, just chossing one to fit.

Near me is a Woodcraft store, which seems to be the only dealer for the Nova. They list it for $999.99 http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=20011 and it is offered with the stand included. After looking it over again, the spindle is 1¼"x8TPI which Grizzly offers the insert for that size.

So...Does any one know of any other dealers that carry the Nova 1624-44 that may cost less? But if shipping cost together, it may be best to get locally....lol. I'll get it figured out.

Thanks again, I love this forum, everyone has been REALLY helpful, even if I have some dumb questions. :cool2:

Later guys
Ray
Gothyc Designs


I'll post when I have gotten it. I can almost taste the shavings now....hehe
 
Joined
Mar 7, 2006
Messages
149
Likes
0
Location
Hanover, MD
Just to add another option for a chuck, PSI offers the Barracuda 4 that strongly resemble the Talon for $199. It comes with extra jaws, but it will need an adapter for 1" x 8 and 1-1/4" x 8. The adapters are $14.95. Cole jaws for it run #34.95.

It may be worth considering. Their web site is www.penstateind.com
 
Joined
May 14, 2006
Messages
61
Likes
0
Location
Vantucky, WA (Vancouver)
Website
www.myspace.com
HAHA...nope missed the sale. Got the email or checked it late I should say. Yeah it would be nice to get it even cheaper. I haven't called them yet to see if they have any floor models, would like to see one in person.

As for the Barracuda 4, I have thought of that too. Adapters don't bother me, figured I 'd get what ever is needed for setup anyways.

Well, I'll have to have the peepers looking more closely on Woodcraft sales. :cool2:

Later,
Ray
 
Joined
May 14, 2006
Messages
61
Likes
0
Location
Vantucky, WA (Vancouver)
Website
www.myspace.com
Ok, a couple of more questions pertaining to chucks.

1. For a 4 Jaw chuck (any brand), are the jaws interchangable from chuck to chuck of different brands? Meaning do the screw holes match up?

I am just trying to figure out the best set up I can get on a budget. If I do not need to spend money on more chucks, I just want to be able to know if these jaws from any brand can be adapted to another brand, i.e. Woodcraft chuck with Nova jaws, or Grizzly chuck with Oneway jaws.

If an $85.00 chuck can do the same job as the $200.00 - 300.00 chuck, then thats more omney to invest in other tools for turning. understanding that at least chuck dia. size should be closely matched.

If I had the money to spend on a spendier chuck set, I would. Like the Nova chucks or vicmarc. I'm just trying to figure what is comparable. Earlier in this thread it was mentined that a Grizzly H6265 is closely to a Vicmarc chuck, so doe sthis mean there could be a possible match for jaws to interchange?

Ok, there were more than a couple of questions here. Currently I have my eye on either a Woodcraft chuck http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=20042 or the Grizzly chuck http://www.grizzly.com/products/H6265,
either way I'll be needing to by a set of jaws that will need to grip up to 2"-4" dia. or square material. With hoping for a little longer teeth set for more grip.

I hope I am making sense. Thanks for any replies. (thus I am newbie to the chucks:D)


Thanks,
Ray K.
 
Joined
Oct 2, 2006
Messages
1,049
Likes
35
Location
Tallahassee FL
I've had the Grizzly H6265 for several months, with no meaningful heartache. I also got the pin jaws (H6268) and the dovetail jaws (H6269). The socket-head screws can accumulate a small amount of dust, so as to produce inadequate purchase for the hex wrench; then the socket can become rounded and hard to tighten the screws. I replaced all the screws with Phillips-head countersunk machine screws (from Ace Hardware), and haven't looked back. Key to success here is to use the proper size driver for the screws. I think all the manufacturers go to the same church on this point.

The intermediate jaws that come with the chuck have a diameter range of 1.269" - 2.819" in compression mode; 1.800" - 3.350" in expansion mode.

The Pin Jaws are 0.200" - 1.750" in compression mode; 0.935" - 2.485" in expansion mode.

The 4" Dovetail Jaws adjust to 3.284" - 4.834" in compression mode; 3.884" - 5.434" in expansion mode.

This information may, or may not, be available from Grizzly AFAIK. These are direct measurements. I think the measurements were from corner-to-corner of the individual jaw pieces for compression, and midpoint-to-midpoint for expansion.

There's some overlap in the ranges between the Pin Jaws and the Intermediate Jaws, and a gap in the ranges between Intermediate and Dovetail. The only consequence of the gap is a need to to exercise care in sizing large tenons or sockets so you don't wind up in the gap.

According to my imperfect understanding, some other-branded jaws fit each other, and some don't. Specific questions should produce specific answers.

Joe
 
Back
Top