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Opinions on contractor table saws

I think you mean the REAXX job site contractors saw. I haven't heard of a bandsaw version of the REAXX or SAwstop although I've heard there is research going on. Personally I need a Stupid stop that can built into my brain so I won't do stupid things. That would also work with my mouth which might be where it's needed most.
 
john lucas said:
I think you mean the REAXX job site contractors saw. I haven't heard of a bandsaw version of the REAXX or SAwstop although I've heard there is research going on. Personally I need a Stupid stop that can built into my brain so I won't do stupid things. That would also work with my mouth which might be where it's needed most.
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Right sorry, was searching for bandsaws and the word stuck in my head.
 
Brent,

You're welcome to stop by and try my Delta Contractors saw and see what I've done to increase accuracy on it. I'm a Buckeye member also.

Ben
 
I don't have time right now to read all the responses above, so apologies if I'm repeating stuff. My first saw was a Jet contractor's saw, my present saw is a Unisaw (overkill now, yes). The design of contractor's saws, with the trunnion assembly hanging from the table and the motor stressing it, is an inherent design flaw when it comes to making beveled cuts. The blade tends to come out of parallel with the miter slot when the blade is tiled for bevels, especially if you're going to or close to 45*. Given that segmented turning requires great accuracy, I'd not go there. I can testify to the frustration of dealing with this problem!

I haven't researched saw in several years. At that time, hybrid saws were coming on the market, might be worth looking at, or a high-quality miter saw with an excellent blade. I have a Freud blade that literally polishes the end-grain of cross-cut wood. So much so that glue might even have a hard time adhering.😀
 
My problem with the contractors saw is exactly what Jamie talked about. You can do an trunion adjustment to bring the saw back into alignment when you tilt the blade but with the contractors saw it's nightmare. It required that I turn the saw over to install some washers and/or adjust the bolts properly because the trunion is too heavy. With a cabinet saw you just loosen the 4 bolts holding the top and it's pretty easy to shift it around or install shims if necessary. Of course that still doesn't answer the question of which saw is best. My last saw was Powermatic contractors saw and I don't recommend it. It was a pretty good saw but the table was .025 out of flat in the middle. I was told by the factory this was within tolerance. Well it works well for contractors work but when you start doing multi generation segmented work it was forever frustrating. My current saw is an older Grizzly cabinet saw that was well used by a cabinet shop. The table is flat and I think with a little more playing around and testing it will be a good saw. Takes up a huge amount of room in my shop however but then I'm starting to build larger things.
 
john lucas said:
My problem with the contractors saw is exactly what Jamie talked about. You can do an trunion adjustment to bring the saw back into alignment when you tilt the blade but with the contractors saw it's nightmare. It required that I turn the saw over to install some washers and/or adjust the bolts properly because the trunion is too heavy. With a cabinet saw you just loosen the 4 bolts holding the top and it's pretty easy to shift it around or install shims if necessary. Of course that still doesn't answer the question of which saw is best. My last saw was Powermatic contractors saw and I don't recommend it. It was a pretty good saw but the table was .025 out of flat in the middle. I was told by the factory this was within tolerance. Well it works well for contractors work but when you start doing multi generation segmented work it was forever frustrating. My current saw is an older Grizzly cabinet saw that was well used by a cabinet shop. The table is flat and I think with a little more playing around and testing it will be a good saw. Takes up a huge amount of room in my shop however but then I'm starting to build larger things.
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John,
My slider is a Grizzly and I have some other Grizzly tools. I know that some have issues with them but for me, they've always performed well. And, other than a couple of issues on receiving (shipper problems) I have never had to put in a service call over the past 20 years.

I think that a model or two of the Grizzly cabinet saw has about the footprint of many of the hybrids, and for not much more money than a hybrid you get the benefits of easier trunnion adjustment and generally better dust control, etc.
 
Jamie, the Unisaw is not overkill..... It is just right, unless you want one of the $10,000 type cabinet saws that will true up sheets of plywood to within microns....

robo hippy
 
Jamie Straw said:
I have a Freud blade that literally polishes the end-grain of cross-cut wood. So much so that glue might even have a hard time adhering.😀
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Jamie, I used a Freud Diablo 80 tooth on my Bosch and you're right about the smooth cut. Now I have a 7" miter saw with a Freud 60 tooth and same thing.
 
I agree with Reed that a tablesaw isn't overkill if it does the job without needing extra pampering and fine tuning and then maybe having to settle for less accuracy than what you really need. I've had my Unisaw for over twenty years and the only reason I might sell it would be to get a SawStop. I probably won't do that until I cut off a hand. 😀
 
Bill, if I ask to buy your unusable if you lose that hand, would that be wrong?

🙂
 
Bill Boehme said:
If you give me a hand, I'll help you load it in your vehicle. 😀
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Boy, is Siri dumb. Apparently, so is the user. I was using my tablet and just have to remember to edit before posting.

But yes, I can LEND a hand (I'm trying to hang on to mine, arthritis and tendonitis andl) !!

😀
 
Justin Stephen said:
While my segmenting experience is no doubt not as extensive as yours, for what its worth I agree with you. I drank the Forrest Kool-Aid, and the WWII is a heck of a good blade, but it is not noticeably better than my Freud.

I recently threw a 60T Freud "finishing" 7 1/4" blade on my table saw and have used it to cut some strips for bowl-from-a-board laminations and have been very pleased with the results. I will probably use the same little blade for my next set of segmented rings and expect to be happy with the results. $19 from the BORG and a very thin kerf. When it gets dull, I'll toss it in the garbage and buy another one.
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Hope to see you in Quincy, MA this weekend.
 
Jamie, keep your coffee cup covered wherever you put it. Sawdust floating in your coffee just doesn't cut it.
 
Justin Stephen said:
I drank the Forrest Kool-Aid, and the WWII is a heck of a good blade, but it is not noticeably better than my Freud.
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Hah, that's funny. Years ago, I attended a pig roast at a Seattle area woodworker-friend of mine's shop. We had all kinds of activities planned, including a blade showdown between a Forrest WWII and whatever Freud blade I was using at the time. There were at least 20 people there who voted, and the Freud won, much to the dismay of the WWII owner.😛 It was close, but definitive.
 
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