Need your input on a new chain saw

[Eric]

Hello everyone,

I'll be coming into some extra money soon (my first SS check and the LOML said I can have it!!!) so I'm thinking about a new chain saw. I have a 16" 36cc Craftsman that I think I'm pushing to it's limit, I have to rip my logs from both ends and I think I could do it in one cut with a 20" or 24" saw and save my lower back some pain.

So, my question is a survey - What manufacture, cc, and bar length do you use, and how is it working out for you??

Or, is what I have the right size for a hobbyist woodturner?

Your thought will be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

 

[Hugh]

This is a question which has come up a number of times. You might want to search the AAW site for the threads. Two brands will come up on a regualr basis. Either one is the "Best". Check out Bailey's on line and get a couple of extra chains. Learn to keep them sharp. It will save the back pain and make wood cutting a lot of fun.
Hugh

 

[robo hippy]

How long of a bar depends on what size trees you are going to get. A 24 inch blade can handle most of what you will find, and can handle up to almost 48 inch diameter, depending on your cutting skills. As to which brand, all the pros that I have seen, both loggers and arborists have either Husky or Stihl. The Sthil dominate by a slight bit. My 24 inch saw is a Husky, and my 36 inch saw is a Stihl
robo hippy

 

[loberg]

My favorite was an Echo. For a new one I agree with Robo. Baileys is right up the road from me and they have a great selection. I found a sharpening service in town and just dropped off my chains. It was cheaper than doing it myself and faster. I always went cutting with no fewer than 3 chains.

 

[Burt Alcantara]

I actually found a Stihl 390 in the street. No one claimed it so I kept it. It's powerful as heck but a pain to start - been to two different shops but still a pain. I'm thinking of getting a new one that starts easier. Will probably get another 390 because I like the power.

I'm currently using a 20" bar but will go up to a bigger bar when I get around to it. Note that Stihl makes "pro" saws that are smaller in cc but they have much less vibration and are lighter weight. These are the saws for guys that climb trees and saw 8-12 hours a day. Expensive too.

Probably any 35cc and up saw would be fine. Make sure you get something to sharpen the chains as they can dull pretty quickly.

Burt

 

[Nate Hawkes]

Well, its correct that this question gets asked a lot, but here goes a quick answer:

You probably want to look at something in the 50-60 cc size if you're looking to use a 20-24" bar, which will be about max for that size saw, but most people aren't using every inch of their bar all the time. I own a Husqvarna 394XP (a 94cc saw, and a BEAST), as well as a stihl MS361, which if I remember correctly is 59cc. Its a little out of most people's budget at $600, but a great midsized saw! One to consider is the husky 359, or if you can afford it, the 357XP is one that you won't likely ever need to replace. Its equally matched to the 361 stihl. The XP models on husky saws denote pro models, and are much different than the homeowner ones sold at lowe's. The 290 farm boss is a popular stihl for most people's budget--something like $400 and capable of running a 20" bar, just not every day all day long. Its about the equivalent of the 359, and 455 "rancher" model. I'm not familiar with echo saws, but they're spoken highly of, and used on many a landscaping crew.

You're probably going to need to spend $400 or more for what you're looking to do. Just remember the pro saws can run a lot harder and longer than the homeowner saws--that's the main price difference there. Don't "dog" a homeowner grade saw, or you'll destroy it. That said, if you take care of one, even the lowest model stihl or husky should last a very long time.

 

[CTutor]

Chainsaw

Try this site. http://npeco.com/ they usually sell the saw with a couple of chains thrown in. The only down side to some popular saws is that you can only get parts or repairs from an "authorized" dealer. If you don't have one in the local area your out of luck for parts and repairs.

 

[Dave Roller]

I have a Stihl MS 310 with a 20" bar, and I've been very happy with it. For cross-cutting I have a chain ground at 30*. For ripping chunks I use a chain ground at 10*. As someone previously mentioned, get yourself a file and file guide and keep the chain sharp. I usually do this 5-6 times before I have to take it in to have a professional sharpen it.

 

[MichaelMouse]

I'd get a bar 2" longer than the swing of my lathe. Enough to keep me from trying to rip through and getting a kickback on the nose without requiring too heavy a saw to pull it. Then get the cc to power it. You can always roll a crosscut piece uphill onto a cradle and spare your back.

Or, if really old and creaky like some, use the bucket on the tractor to do the lift. :cool2:

 

[Eric]

I'd get a bar 2" longer than the swing of my lathe. Enough to keep me from trying to rip through and getting a kickback on the nose without requiring too heavy a saw to pull it. Then get the cc to power it. You can always roll a crosscut piece uphill onto a cradle and spare your back.

Or, if really old and creaky like some, use the bucket on the tractor to do the lift. :cool2:

Thanks for the tips everyone, I'll also run some searches here as suggested.

My lathe is a PM3520 and I think that's the source of my problem.:cool2: I want to feed it bigger and bigger blanks.

Getting kickbacks on the bar nose and doing double cuts is why I looking for something new. My 16" Craftsman is fine for the smaller stuff, and I can take care of it myself. Sharpening chains is also no problem, I keep four spare in the CS toolbox that I carry with me. I'll resharpen the chains I've used and clean the saw down before I put things away at the end of the day. I'll keep the Craftsman around regardless what I get.

"old and creaky" Some day are better than others - Woodturning will keep me young.

Thanks for the feedback everyone.

Cheers

 

[Steve Worcester]

This is one of those "how much money do you have" threads. Stihl is a great saw so is Husky. Like lathes, you can put a small bar on a big head, but a big bar on a small head will not yield the results you are looking for. But a big head also has to be lugged through the woods.

Baileys is a great place for bars and chains as well as Husky saws (at least it used to be). Make sure you match the chains gauge to the bar.

 

[Bernie Weishapl]

I like my Stihl 360. My brother has a Husky which is a good saw also.

 

[Eric]

"Stihl is a great saw so is Husky."

Baileys is a great place for bars and chains as well as Husky saws (at least it used to be). Make sure you match the chains gauge to the bar.

I've been looking at the Stihls but haven't seen a single Husky in town.

Where is Baileys - on line?

 

[Richard Baker]

Eric,
As Steve mentioned, bigger, while sometimes better, is also heavier. And heavier makes my back hurt. I wanted a bigger saw, but after looking at the saw weights I bought a slightly smaller model (18" bar), and glad I did. I got an Echo simply because my 25 year old Echo trimmer still runs like new. Have only had the saw a few years, so can not comment on its longevity, but expect it will still be a good saw when I no longer need one.

So I say, check the weights; find something that weighs the same (a short log?) and carry it around, pretend to saw with it. Save your back. Just a thought.

 

[Eric]

Eric,
As Steve mentioned, bigger, while sometimes better, is also heavier. And heavier makes my back hurt.....

So I say, check the weights; find something that weighs the same (a short log?) and carry it around, pretend to saw with it. Save your back. Just a thought.

Texian,

You and Steve have made a good point that I have not paid that much attention to, so far I've been concentrating on cc's and bar length. You think I would look a little odd if I carried a chain saw around a store for a while. Thanks for the tip, I see I have more research to do.

Cheers

 

[waltben]

The weight issue is why I got a Stihl 260 & 20" bar back a few years ago. It's become my favorite saw of all time. Starts every time, light weight, powerful and with that 3/6" pitch chain that cuts like mad! Unless you're planning on cutting trees for a living, you can skip the Pro version and save a little money.

 

[john lucas]

I don't know which size Husky I have but I've given it a hard life and it's still running. It came with a 16" bar but I put a 20 on it. I think 24" would be a more all around useful length. I bought the 16 because the saw was lightweight but after using it for 10 years I think it's too light. Great for carving but you need more horsepower if your going to cut the full length of the bar which I end up doing a lot when ripping logs. I've cut quite a few 24" logs with it. It takes time but it works.
If I had to do it over again and had money I would buy a Stihl with 24" bar but based on the money I had I think the Husky was a very good buy.

 

[Dick Sowa]

The recommendations you already have are good ones. However, one factor that hardly anyone mentions is just how often you plan to use it. If you are a production turner, and putting out lots of bowls, then go bigger, stronger, more expensive, etc. It will be money well spent.

But if you are like me, and buck up blanks once or twice a year, then you might want to go for something less expensive. Some also get an electric chainsaw for light duty trimming of the blanks.

 

[hockenbery]

Eric,

Run up to Annapolis. Bowen's Farm supply on Riva rd.

Ask for James. Tell him what you want your saw to do, he'll fix you up.
You'll leave with a saw you just ran. they'll show you any quirks they know about.
They carry stihl and a couple of other brands.

I bought a stihl 440 with a 24" bar. great saw!

also you'll be wanting to hook up with the Chesapeake Woodturners.

happy turning,
Al

 

[hockenbery]

Eric,

PS you may have to go to a big Box store to find a Husky.

This may be out of date but a about 6 years ago Husky made a policy of requiring dealers to carry all husky products. Outdoor Power dropped Husky rather than carry their lawn tractors etc.

Don't know if this is still in effect. But most of the equipment dealer here in Lakeland don't carry Husky.

With the head you have two types in the Stihl one with a visible sprocket that is easy to change and one with the sprocket under a clutch that is not easy to change. You'll want to change the sprocket after 4 chains (the manual says 2 I think I have 6 on this sprocket) time to change it. Changing the visible sprocket is one bolt takes 2 minute with the cover off.

Happy turning,
Al

 

[Mike Cunningham]

I've been looking at the Stihls but haven't seen a single Husky in town.

Where is Baileys - on line?

Eric: http://www.baileysonline.com/
I have a Stihl 310 with a 20" bar, serves me well. I have several chains, keep them sharp and maintain the saw.
Mike

 

[Donna Banfield]

Thanks for the tips everyone, I'll also run some searches here as suggested.

My lathe is a PM3520 and I think that's the source of my problem.:cool2: I want to feed it bigger and bigger blanks.



Eric, read the thread started by John Lucas about bigger lathes, bigger swing, bigger blanks, etc.

Everything that John and the others have posted is pretty accurate. And you don't need to be a guy to want to use all the swing that the lathe has.

I have a 3hp 2436 with the outboard (4' swing) and yes, I had that uncontrollable 'urge' to use every inch. But.....try to find wood that large... try to move wood that large... try to get it on the lathe.... try to rough it out.... finish turn it.... sand it.... then sell it, if you can.

 

[Jim Stoppleworth]

I have both a Stihl and a Husky. The Stihl is smaller and used a lot for trimming etc, and is nearly 30 years old. The Husky is the 455 with a 20" bar and has been doing the bulk of my sawing for the last 5 years. I don't think you could go wrong with either brand.

 

[Hugh]

Bailey's has two stores - one in Laytonville, CA and the other in the South somewhere I think. They used to carry Husky saws, but they have not been in the catalog lately. They have a good web site - google Bailey's chainsaws and it should come up. It is something like: baileysonline.com or something like that.

I have had one Husky 61 for 25 years. Runs great. Then I picked up a Husky 365 a couple of years ago. Love it. Then I have an old Sthil 51 with a larger bar. All good saws. As long as you keep the air filter clean and other parts too. And always keep a sharp chain - have spares.

I enjoy few things more than a nice day in the woods.
Hugh

 

[Nate Hawkes]

Eric: http://www.baileysonline.com/
I have a Stihl 310 with a 20" bar, serves me well. I have several chains, keep them sharp and maintain the saw.
Mike

Bailey's is great! Unfortunately, and this includes other stores, they don't sell Husqvarna saws online anymore. Husky is trying to increase or build their dealer network or something. I think they're going to sell a lot less saws that way. Buy what you can locally. You can no longer save a few $$ by buying them online. In the long run this is a good thing for small businesses, but when husqvarna also sells their lower end products at Lowe's and the like, the dealers can't afford to sell them for the prices that Lowe's does. Seems a bit hypocritical if you ask me....
Get what you can get serviced locally, and by someone you trust. If the stihl or husky dealer isn't someone you like and trust, find someone or something else. Echo is a good saw, as is Solo, and Dolmar. All are german or scandanavian made saws, and all have good reputations.
I bought my 3520B (not here yet) from a local PM dealer because the service angle and buying locally in this economy was worth it to me. (and because they gave me a deal).

 

[Dave Peebles]

Hi Al,

You said...

With the head you have two types in the Stihl one with a visible sprocket that is easy to change and one with the sprocket under a clutch that is not easy to change. You'll want to change the sprocket after 4 chains (the manual says 2 I think I have 6 on this sprocket) time to change it. Changing the visible sprocket is one bolt takes 2 minute with the cover off.

I have never read this before. Do you know why they would want you to change the sprocket after two chains? That seems crazy to me. I know that If that is true, I am way behind on my saws.

Thanks,

Dave

 

[john lucas]

I was wondering that also Dave. I have the same sprocket and bar that came with my Husky. I have been using it for 10 years. I still have the original 16" bar that I carry with me in case I get the saw stuck. I can switch bars and chains and keep on going.
I know I've heard that you should change the bar or at least true it up every so often but I've never done it.

 

[hockenbery]

John, Dave,
The sprockets do wear. I did eat through the sprocket on a 20" Poulin I had before the Stihl. One day is stopped cutting the engine ran and the chain stopped going around. I had worn through the sprocket and cut it in half.

I now change the sprocket on the Stihl probably every 4-5 chains just because I don't want to have one wear through again. I mostly run 2 chains on my saw swapping them until their worn out. When I've gone through 4 I replace the sprocket. The manual says every two chains that seems a bit excessive maybe 4 is overkill too.

This is mostly a guess: Stihl's reasoning may be to make the bar last longer. A worn sprocket will wear on the drive teeth which will in turn wear on the bar.

I do a lot of sawing besides my own turning blanks- firewood, storms, trail building/maintenance, class prep, club tree harvests.

I've had my Stihl 044 saw 8 years and been through about 10-12 chains, replaced 2 sprockets, and replaced the spark plug twice. The saw runs great and the bar seems fine.

happy turning,
Al

 

[john lucas]

Al I've worn the sprockets out on my bicycle. I go through about 1 every 3 years or so. I have to replace the chains due to stretching about every other year. I was having trouble getting my bike front deraileur to shift accuratelly so I took it to my bike man. He showed me that my sprocket was worn down almost 1/4" at each tooth. That's a lot of wear. Now I change them before they get that far. Of course these are aluminum.

 

[C Edward Moore]

Good Advice from Al!

Eric,

I used to live in Bowie and worked in Annapolis. I couldn't remember the name of the Farm Supply store on Riva Road. Al supplied it - BOWEN's. Thank you, Al. Al is right, go there for a Stihl.

I have a Stihl MS361. Great saw! Plenty of power. I use a 20" blade. This was recommended by Moneta Farm Supply (a bigger Bowen's) and I am glad that I listened.

I recommended this saw on another forum, as did others. The person asking bought one and reported on his first cut. He had a log on a saw stand, revved the saw and pushed down like he did with his old dull saw, and sawed log and stand half in two. I laughed until I almost cried.

The moral of this story - don't mess with a 361. I suspect that Al's 440 is even more powerful.

And remember Al's other suggestion - make contact with the Chesapeake Woodturners. They are a great bunch.

 

[Eric]

Al I've worn the sprockets out on my bicycle. I go through about 1 every 3 years or so. I have to replace the chains due to stretching about every other year. I was having trouble getting my bike front deraileur to shift accuratelly so I took it to my bike man. He showed me that my sprocket was worn down almost 1/4" at each tooth. That's a lot of wear. Now I change them before they get that far. Of course these are aluminum.

John,

I am blown away, you may have solved my bike trouble!!! I'm going to take mine into our local bike doctor and have that checked out. Thanks for the tip.

I've never heard of changing sprockets on a chain saw but it sounds plausible as the sprocket is where the power meets the load. Mine is hidden behind the clutch so I can't easily see it, I'll have to pull the clutch to do the inspection.

I know how bike chains can ware and I use the same test on my saw chains. I've never seen it in print, but I found that if I hold a chain out horizontally and look at the arc it makes in the air, and compare that to a new chain, I can see that an older chain makes a bigger arc. If I feel uncomfortable with the sag, I pitch the chain for safety. I did break a chain once, (don't really know why) but that was a socking experience that I don't want to have again, even though I know I probably will.

This chain saw thread has given me some very useful points to consider before I spend my money.

Thank you everyone.

 

[Dave Peebles]

Thanks Al,

Geez.. now I gonna have to read my manual. It is good to learn new info.

Also, Eric, sorry about the slight hi-jack on your thread. Just let me add that I have a Husqvarna 346 XP with a 20 inch bar. It has been a great saw for me for about 3 years. I like the weigh to power ratio very much. It covers almost all of the logs I cut. If I find larger trees, I have friends with bigger saws.

Best wishes,
Dave

 

[MichaelMouse]

John,


I've never heard of changing sprockets on a chain saw but it sounds plausible as the sprocket is where the power meets the load. Mine is hidden behind the clutch so I can't easily see it, I'll have to pull the clutch to do the inspection.

I know how bike chains can ware and I use the same test on my saw chains. I've never seen it in print, but I found that if I hold a chain out horizontally and look at the arc it makes in the air, and compare that to a new chain, I can see that an older chain makes a bigger arc. If I feel uncomfortable with the sag, I pitch the chain for safety. I did break a chain once, (don't really know why) but that was a socking experience that I don't want to have again, even though I know I probably will.

The sprocket must match the "pitch" on the chain as must the bar. One of the problems first-time buyers might have with the "safety" chains is their small bite. We turners also rip with the chain, and it can get to be a problem with the shavings not clearing. Rocking the chain so that it's engaged only half of its length will help keep the revs up and the shavings clear, but the best answer is a nice chisel chain, or maybe even a skip if you have two. Just make sure they are a proper match for bar, sprocket, and each other. That's what a dealer is for, among other things, making sure you don't put a seven-point on where an eight should be.

It's a natural thing for a chain to stretch as it wears. That's why the adjustment, of course. It should be set cold and monitored hot. Right after ripping is a good time to stop and check the sag. NEVER take up full slack on a hot chain. Take a half.

 

[Nate Hawkes]

Ripping (or milling) is also a great way to wear down the sprocket!! I have had to replace mine several times on my Husqvarna 394XP. There are longer wearing parts called a sprocket "hub", which is a 7-9 pointed star, depending on chain pitch, which lasts much longer, and costs a lot more. Its actually built into the clutch drum, whereas the "rim" sprockets are like a little cog that fits down over the geared clutch drum, and are replaceable. The replaceable ones are superior if you're going to be doing a lot of sawing, and they have the added benefit of letting you change your chain speed if you wanted to say, switch to a different pitch of chain. If I put a bar that was meant for .325 chain on it, I'd have to change my sprocket to one with spacing for .325 chain, but also have more sprockets per rpm, b/c .325 is shorter than .375, and therefore wouldn't give adequate cutting speed.......chainsaws are just physics in motion. Very fast motion. Wear your kevlar chaps!!

 

[Vaughn]

I have a Stihl MS390 with 18" and 24" bars that I'm very happy with, but I think if you get any of the major players mentioned here (Husky, Echo, Solo, Dolmer) you'll be very happy with your choice. Be aware though, as Nate mentioned, the Husky saws sold at the big box stores are NOT the same as the Husky saws sold by a Husqvarna dealer.

...Get what you can get serviced locally, and by someone you trust. If the stihl or husky dealer isn't someone you like and trust, find someone or something else...

This is very sound advice. Local service is important, and if you find a dealer that you like, buy the brand they recommend (assuming it's one of the major players mentioned earlier). In my area, there are a number of Stihl dealers, and fewer Husky dealers. The dealer I bought from sells both and said both are great saws, but he recommended the Stihl line, mostly because they make up the majority of the chain saws he sells, so he generally has parts more readily available for them.

 

[Martin Braun]

I'll second that. A local dealer, while you may pay a little extra up front, will save you a lot of money down the road.

 

[Gretch Flo]

Stihl saw starting problems

I have a Stihl 290 18" bar, and a Stihl 280. The 280 was an upgrade and newer and Weighs less. I didn't know what you meant by hard starting-to me that meant it didn't turn over with several pulls. The problem with my "upgrade" is some days I couldn't get the pull cord to come out but an inch. Hard on my surgery shoulders. I start it on the ground, not like you beefy fellows. Also in a previous thread some mentioned to get a decompression (word?) feature-I didn't know what that meant. Now I do. So I took the saw into the fix it Stihl shop. They said it was too much compression for ?me. No way to retrofit. Put in a new cord (other frayed some due to the difficulties). My gut feeling is that on warmer days it starts better. My older 290 doesn't have that problem. Gretch

 

[JRutten]

Stihl is still your best bet

I went out cedar tree cutting with my FIL with his McCullough, my BIL with his Poulan, and me with my little Stihl. Hours after both their saws had bit the dust my Stihl was still going strong. I am a believer in Stihl.

 

[Carl Ford]

I recommend a Husky 359

I have and recommend a Husky 359 with a 24 inch bar with 3/8" = .375" chain.

I have a Powermatic 3520A and a VB36 lathe. I often cross cut logs over 30" in diameter and rip logs 2-3 ft long.

When it comes to cross cut there is no difference between Stihl and Husky saws in my opinion. The Stihl may be better.

When it comes to ripping the Husky is better than Stihl. Why? When you rip cut you get long stringy chips rather than fine saw dust. The Husky is better at clearing the chips. The shape at the back/bottom of the bar where it ejects the chips is better on the Husky for ripping. This is based on side by side demonstrations with Stihl and Husky saws on the same log by a woodturner who owned both saws. The Stihl was little bigger than the Husky but the Husky was better at ripping.

You really need the 3/8" = .375" chain that is standard on Husky 359. The smaller chains on home saws are not good for ripping.

The XP version of Husky saws weight 1.5 lbs or so less. I would pay the extra bucks for this if I used the saw everyday in the woods. But, for once a week it is not worth the extra bucks.

 

[Burt Alcantara]

Gretch,
I have the exact same problem with my 390. It's an old used one that I got about 3 years ago. Worked fine up until a few month ago. Then, I couldn't pull the cord. Went to 2 different dealers. They said the same thing about compression. Both dealers could pull the cord with no problem. Me, I can't get it out of the gate.

If this gets worse I'll have to sell it and get a new one. Can't be without a chainsaw!

Burt