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Mcnaughton Center saver users

Joined
Jan 9, 2018
Messages
15
Likes
7
Location
Marquette, MI
Also, on the Mark 8 system, Kel switched on the large set of blades. As near as I can tell, thickness is metric. On old blades, the standard set appears to be 6mm, and the large set 7mm. On the newer ones, Mark 8, they appear to both be 6mm. I have heard a couple of people say the large sets of blades were bending with normal use, but I haven't tried them out.

robo hippy

I just got the older 4 pin system and was curious about the difference btw it the new mark 8. I emailed Kel and he called me last night. He said some of the older turrets are spaced at 7mm and some are 6mm (like the mark 8) for the jumbo blades. He said blades available now are all made to fit the 6mm spacing and recommended NOT using the newer blades on the old 7mm spacing, as they could bend, etc... as Robo Hippy mentioned above. He said craft supplies used to carry just the turret (the round piece with pins) but they now only offer the entire mark 8 post ($190).

He called me back and suggested I make a sleeve for one of the larger posts with 1mm thickness, effectively changing the spacing from 7mm to 6mm. Seems like a super easy fix. Make it for the outside post and leave it there.

I gotta get the hang of this tool before I get the jumbo blades but thought someone might find this info useful.
 
Joined
Jun 22, 2023
Messages
9
Likes
4
Location
Gwynn Oak, MD
Here I go again trying to pick your brains. I have tried a couple dozen cores now with my mcnaughton, I only have 1 lampshade thankfully but I'm not getting the angles right. my cores are coming out uneven and almost always thinner at the bottom 1/4 of the bowl with some getting so thin that I know they are going to crack during drying. I have the standard set, and the small set now and i'm trying to get proficient before I start jumping into the nicer wood and the burls that are piling up. I have mike mahoney's dvd which is fun to watch but didn't teach me much as far as the aiming and visualization process goes. He says you have to have some imagination to visualize where the cut will be but like Dale Bonnert says, you're new you don't have the imagination which is my issue.

I have watched dale bonnert's video a dozen or more times and I like his process but for the life of me I can't get it aimed right even then.
I have also watched robo hippy's video a handful of times for tips and have picked up on some good cues there.

Does anybody have any good tips on getting the cut laid out and setting up the angle of entry? I don't know that it could be explained any more than Dale Bonnert does but maybe someone has some tips or tricks that I can't find.

I don't want to spend another hundred dollars on the laser guide since i've allready dropped almost 700$ on this set up as it is so I want to exhaust every other option first.

I have a large supply of 22" diameter hard maple logs that I want to make a lot of bowls out of but when I try to core them I get a fight like i'm battling vikings everytime I try. Thanks in advance for the info!

Chris
Just watched Mike Mahoney do a detailed presentation on that very situation. He explains how to get the proper angles and the proper thickness. He also demonstrates how to make adjustments as you work your way through. Go to YouTube and visit his site.

John
 
Joined
Feb 16, 2021
Messages
1,132
Likes
1,664
Location
Parkersburg, West Virginia
A friend of mine bends a wire into a circle to match the curve of each blade. He makes a starting cut to hold the tip of the blade. He holds the wire up at the depth and where the starting cut is. He will put the cutting tip in the cut and push the handle until it matches the wire and then locks down the banjo. He did a demo at our club and it looked to be quick and easy. His core was also perfect.
 
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
5,698
Likes
3,046
Location
Eugene, OR
A comment from Mike that he made at the last Oregon Woodturning Symposium was that he did 90% of his coring with the medium curve blade. Me too!

robo hippy
 
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